Sichuan | Saveur

Kung Pao Chicken

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:37 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Pearl Jones. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Pearl Jones

The Sichuan dish gong bao ji ding—often better known by its Americanized name kung pao chicken—is a dainty assemblage of small, plump chicken morsels, peanuts, and scallions, with just enough chiles to give it a kick. This recipe is adapted from China Club, a private club in Beijing that serves a thrilling menu of classic Chinese dishes: spicy Sichuan, delicate Cantonese, and rich Shanghainese, with refined versions of Beijing specialties as well.

Featured in “The Revolution is a Dinner Party” by David Sheff.

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Yield: 4

Time: 40 minutes

4 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cubed
3 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine
2 Tbsp. sugar
3 Tbsp. chicken stock
4 tsp. Chinkiang (black) vinegar (or substitute balsamic vinegar)
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
2 tsp. Chinese dark soy sauce
3 Tbsp. vegetable or peanut oil
12 small dried red chiles, stemmed, halved crosswise, and seeded
5 scallions, white part only, thickly sliced crosswise
1 large garlic clove, thinly sliced
One ½-in. piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
½ cup shelled, skinless raw peanuts

Instructions

In a medium bowl, stir together 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and the cornstarch. Add the chicken, toss well, and set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a separate medium bowl, stir together the Shaoxing wine, stock, sugar, sesame oil, vinegar, dark soy sauce, and the remaining soy sauce.
To a large wok or nonstick skillet over high heat, add the vegetable oil. When it’s just beginning to smoke, add the chiles, half the scallions, the garlic, ginger, and the marinated chicken, and stir-fry until the chicken is golden, 3–5 minutes. Add the soy sauce mixture and continue stir-frying until the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes more.
Stir in the peanuts, garnish with the remaining scallions, and serve immediately.

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Lazi Chicken Wings

Jing Gao — Wed, 31 Jan 2024 14:00:00 +0000

Photo: Yudi Ela Echevarria • Food Styling: Caroline Hwang • Prop Styling: Rebecca Bartoshesky. Photo: Yudi Ela Echevarria • Food Styling: Caroline Hwang • Prop Styling: Rebecca Bartoshesky

If you’ve ever been to a Sichuan restaurant, you’ve probably had lazi chicken, an iconic dish in the regional cuisine. Chunks of golden fried chicken are tossed in a fiery wok and served amidst a sea of scorching red chiles and Sichuan peppercorns. Sichuan chefs usually opt for bone-in chicken, but Jing Gao, founder of chili crisp brand Fly By Jing, likes to serve hers as wings, which are a bit easier to find in a pile of peppers. A gratuitous amount of chilies and Sichuan peppercorns accompany this dish, but worry not, they’re not meant to be eaten—they’re only there to impart depth of flavor and heat. Sichuan chefs often fry their own peanuts for lazi chicken, but Gao uses the brand Huang Fei Hong’s spicy nuts as a shortcut.

Adapted with permission from The Book of Sichuan Chili Crisp: Spicy Recipes and Stories from Fly By Jing’s Kitchen by Jing Gao, copyright © 2023. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.

Featured in “A New Kind of Asian Grocer Has Arrived,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 4

Time: 13 hours

Ingredients

For the mala spice mix (makes about ½ cup):

⅓ cup dried erjingtiao chiles, coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp. cumin seeds
1½ tsp. fennel seeds
1 tsp. whole cloves
2 black cardamom pods
2 star anise
3 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. kosher salt

For the chicken wings:

2 lb. chicken wings
1 tsp. kosher salt
4 cups plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, such as peanut
½ cup dried erjingtiao chiles, cut into 1-in. pieces
1 Tbsp. whole Sichuan peppercorns
3 scallions, green parts removed, thinly sliced
¼ cup finely chopped cilantro leaves, for garnish

Instructions

Make the mala spice mix: In a medium wok or skillet set over medium-low heat, toast the chiles, cumin, fennel, cloves, cardamom, and star anise until fragrant, 3–4 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl to cool to room temperature.
When the mixture is cool, add the sugar and salt. Using a spice grinder or a mortar and pestle, grind the mixture into a fine powder. (Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.)
Make the chicken wings: To a large bowl, add the chicken wings and salt and rub to evenly coat. Into a large wok or pot fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, add 4 cups of the oil and turn the heat to medium-high. When the temperature reads 250°F, add the wings to the wok and fry, working in batches, until cooked through and lightly golden, 10–15 minutes per batch. Transfer the wings to a large paper towel-lined platter, arranging them in a flat layer. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 12 hours, up to 24 hours. Reserve the oil in the wok.
When ready to re-fry, set the same wok over high heat, with the reserved oil in it. When the temperature reads 400°F, return the wings to the wok and fry until golden brown, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer the wings to a cooling rack and dust the mala spice mix evenly over them. (Discard the oil.)
Use a paper towel to wipe the wok clean, then heat the remaining oil over medium-high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the chiles, Sichuan peppercorn, and scallions and stir-fry, tossing continuously, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Return the wings to the wok, lightly dust with more mala spice mix to taste, and toss gently to coat. Transfer to a large platter, garnish with cilantro, and serve.

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Strange-Flavor Mixed Nuts

Jing Gao — Wed, 31 Jan 2024 14:00:00 +0000

Photo: Yudi Ela Echevarria • Food Styling: Caroline Hwang • Prop Styling: Rebecca Bartoshesky

A famous Sichuan snack that Jing Gao, founder of chili crisp brand Fly By Jing, grew up eating is guaiwei (literally, “strange flavor”) fava beans. The crispy, crunchy beans—fried and coated in a sugary, spicy, salty, and tingly coating—are usually served alongside afternoon tea, or as a bar snack. Since fava beans can be harder to find as readily in the United States, Gao often substitutes them with an assortment of mixed nuts. (For a different flavor profile that’s just as enticing, you can also substitute the chile-and-Sichuan-peppercorn mixture with about a tablespoon of mala spice mix.)

Featured in “A New Kind of Asian Grocer Has Arrived,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 4

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

1½ tsp. Sichuan red chile powder
½ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground roasted Sichuan peppercorn
¾ cup sugar
1½ cups assorted nuts, such as cashews, peanuts, almonds, and pecans

Instructions

In a small bowl, whisk together the chile powder, salt, and Sichuan peppercorn.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. To a large wok or skillet set over high heat, add the sugar and ⅓ cup of water. Using a spatula, stir continuously until the mixture begins to thicken and bubble and reads 250°F on a candy thermometer, 8–12 minutes. Working very quickly, remove the wok from the heat and add the nuts and salt mixture; toss well to coat. Spread the nuts into a flat layer on the baking sheet and separate them into small bite-size clusters, then set aside to cool to room temperature. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks at room temperature.

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Smashed Cucumber Salad with Yuba

Jing Gao — Wed, 31 Jan 2024 14:00:00 +0000

Photo: Yudi Ela Echevarria • Food Styling: Caroline Hwang • Prop Styling: Rebecca Bartoshesky

The simple smashed cucumber salad is a perennially popular appetizer in Chinese restaurants, but Jing Gao, founder of chili crisp brand Fly By Jing, likes to add layers to zhuzh it up. One of her favorite ways to incorporate textural contrast is to toss in slippery, chewy pieces of yuba, or tofu skin. Look for the ingredient in dried sheets at your local Asian supermarket, or online. If you can find fresh tofu skin, that also works well (just skip step one).

Featured in “A New Kind of Asian Grocer Has Arrived,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 4

5 oz. (¾ cup) dried or fresh yuba (tofu skin) sheets, cut into 1-in. pieces
3 small cucumbers
½ tsp. kosher salt
1¼ tsp. sugar, divided
1 Tbsp. Sichuan chili crisp
1 Tbsp. light soy sauce
1 Tbsp. Chinese black vinegar
2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped (1 Tbsp.)
Sesame seeds and finely chopped cilantro leaves, for garnish

Instructions

If using dried yuba, fill a medium pot about halfway with water and bring to a boil. Add the yuba and cook over high heat until they soften and turn pale, 4–5 minutes. Drain and set aside.
Cut the cucumbers crosswise into approximately 3-inch lengths, then halve each piece lengthwise. Using the flat side of a cleaver, smash the cucumbers to crack the skin. Use a spoon to scrape out the seeds and discard. Cut the cucumbers into bite-size pieces (about 1 inch). Transfer to a large bowl, add the salt and ¼ teaspoon of the sugar, and toss well. Set aside to marinate for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours. (This will extract some water from the cucumbers.)
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the chili crisp, soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, garlic, and the remaining sugar.
Drain the cucumbers of any extracted water. Add the tofu skin and the chili-crisp mixture and toss well to mix. Transfer to a platter, garnish with sesame seeds and cilantro, and serve.

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Mapo Tofu

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:27 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

One of Sichuan cuisine’s best-known dishes, mapo tofu is a comforting, tongue-tingling braise showcasing many ingredients which form the bedrock of the regional cooking style. Doubanjiang, a dark red fermented paste of erjingtiao chiles and broad beans, brings deep umaminess and heat, while douchi, fermented black soybeans, penetrate the tofu with briny, pungent flavor. Red chiles and Sichuan pepper mingle to create the fiery, mouth-numbing flavor profile known in Chinese as mala.

Featured in “Capital of Heat,” by Matt Gross.

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Yield: 4

Time: 40 minutes

¼ cup cornstarch
One 14-oz. package silken tofu, drained and cut into 1-in. cubes
Kosher salt
½ cup hong you (Sichuan red chile oil), or substitute store-bought
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
6 oz. ground pork or beef
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. doubanjiang (Chinese red chile bean paste)
1 Tbsp. douchi (Chinese fermented black soybeans)
4 Chinese chives (blossoms discarded), or scallions, thinly sliced, plus more for garnish
1 xiao mi la or red Thai chile, finely chopped
1¼ cups chicken stock
1 Tbsp. light soy sauce
1 Tbsp. sugar
¼ tsp. ground Sichuan pepper
Steamed rice, for serving

Instructions

In a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch with ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of water until dissolved. Set aside.
To a bowl, add the tofu and 3 cups of boiling salted water and soak for 15 minutes. Drain, then set aside on a paper towel-lined plate.
To a large flat-bottomed wok or skillet, add the hong you and turn the heat to medium-high. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the pork and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat, until browned, 4–6 minutes. Add the doubanjiang, douchi, chives, and xiao mi la and cook, stirring frequently, until the chives are wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and reserved tofu and bring to a boil, stirring gently (don’t break up the tofu). Add the soy sauce and sugar and continue to boil until the sugar is dissolved, about 1 minute. While swirling the pan, slowly add the reserved cornstarch mixture and cook until the sauce has thickened, about 2 minutes more. Sprinkle with the Sichuan pepper and more chives. Serve with rice.

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Sichuan Twice-Cooked Pork Belly (Hui Guo Rou)

Dan Holzman and Matt Rodbard — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:23:20 +0000

Photography: Linda Pugliese; Food Stylist: Mariana Velasquez; Prop Stylist: Elvis Maynard

This flavorful Chinese dish, from chef Dan Holzman and cookbook author Matt Rodbard, was inspired by a version at San Francisco’s Sichuan restaurant Spices II. Boiling the pork first renders some of the fat and makes the meat easier to slice and crisp up later in a blazing-hot wok. Check out 27 other Chinese recipes better than takeout.

Featured in: “Twice-Cooked Bacon is the Best Kind of Bacon.”

Yield: serves 4

Time: 1 hour

3 lb. skin-on pork belly
2 tbsp. kosher salt
2 large leeks (about 11/2 lb.), trimmed, halved, rinsed well, and cut into 1/2-inch slices
2 tbsp. douchi (fermented black soybeans), rinsed
1 tbsp. doubanjiang (red chile bean paste)
¹⁄₄ cup Shaoxing wine
1 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp. sugar

Instructions

In a large pot, cover the pork belly and salt with water by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Drain the pork belly, transfer to a cutting board, cool slightly, slice into 2-inch squares then cut into 1⁄8-inch-thick slices.
Heat a large wok over high heat. Working in batches, add the pork in a single layer and cook, flipping once, until golden brown, 5–6 minutes. Transfer the slices to a bowl and drain off all but 2 tablespoons of the rendered fat. Return the wok to high heat then add the leeks and cook, stirring, until they begin to wilt, about 3 minutes. Add the douchi and doubanjiang, stir to incorporate, then stir in the reserved pork belly and its reserved fat along with the wine, soy sauce, and sugar. Cook, stirring frequently, until the pork is warmed through and the sauce is thickened, about 3 minutes more. Scrape the pork belly and leeks into a serving bowl and serve hot.

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Sichuan Dan Dan Noodles

SAVEUR Editors — Thu, 15 Jul 2021 01:30:00 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

For this beloved Sichuan dish, a tangle of wheat noodles is topped with ground pork cooked in a tingly Sichuan peppercorn sauce. Hong you, a ruby red chile- and spice-infused oil, is essential to the cuisine of the southwestern Chinese province. Feel free to make your own jar or use a storebought oil. This version of Dan Dan Noodles is adapted from one that appeared in Fuchsia Dunlop’s first cookbook, Land of Plenty.

Yield: serves 4

Time: 25 minutes

2 tbsp. peanut oil
3 tbsp. finely chopped ya cai (Tianjin preserved vegetable), rinsed and drained
4 oz. ground pork
3 tbsp. hong you (Sichuan red chile oil)
2 tbsp. light soy sauce
1 tsp. dark soy sauce
2 tsp. Chinkiang black vinegar
1 tsp. Shaoxing wine
¹⁄₂ tsp. ground Sichuan peppercorns
2 scallions, finely chopped
Kosher salt
12 oz. fresh wheat noodles, or 8 oz. dried

Instructions

Heat a large wok over high heat. Drizzle the peanut oil along the inside of the wok to coat, then when the oil just begins to smoke, add the ya cai and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the pork and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until browned, 2–3 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in the hong you, soy sauces, vinegar, wine, Sichuan peppercorns, and scallions, then set aside.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil; add the noodles and cook until tender, 4–7 minutes. Drain the noodles and divide between 4 large serving bowls; divide the reserved sauce over noodles, and serve hot.

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Garlicky Yu Choy Stir-Fry

SAVEUR Editors — Wed, 26 Jun 2019 15:18:33 +0000

Two types of heat turn up the volume in these stir-fried greens: dried chao tian jiao (facing heaven) chiles and Sichuan peppercorns. Jenny Huang

You cai is the Mandarin name for a leafy, lightly bitter mustard green more widely known by its Cantonese name: yu choy. Stir-fry it quickly in a smoking-hot wok so it retains some of its crunch. The purple variety is pictured here, but green you cai is easier to come by in U.S. markets. Choose thinner-stemmed greens, and peel any thick stems before cooking.

Featured in: What It Takes to Be a Bamboo Harvester in China’s Sichuan Province

Equipment

8 oz. yu choy (you cai), trimmed and rinsed (6 cups)
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
6–8 dried chao tian jiao (facing heaven) chiles, or substitute Thai or arbol, cut into ½-inch pieces
5 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced (2 Tbsp.)
5 whole red Sichuan peppercorns
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed

Instructions

Separate the yu choy leaves and florets from the stems. Using a vegetable peeler, peel any thicker stems. Cut all the stems into 3-inch-long pieces.
In a wok over very high heat, add the oil and swirl the pan to coat its surface. When the oil is smoking, add the chiles and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant and darkened, about 1 minute. Add the garlic and peppercorns, and continue cooking, stirring constantly, for 1 minute more. Add the yu choy stems, leaves, and florets and ½ teaspoon salt, and continue stirring until combined, about 1 minute. Add 2 tablespoons cold water, and continue stir-frying until the greens are just wilted and bright green, and the stems have tenderized slightly, 2–3 minutes more.
Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Transfer to a large plate and serve immediately.

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Sichuan Chicken Soup with Bamboo Shoots and Mushrooms

SAVEUR Editors — Tue, 02 Jul 2019 19:41:48 +0000

Bamboo mushrooms—an earthy Chinese delicacy that grows at the root of bamboo stalks—are most enjoyed in Sichuan’s simple chicken soup. Harvested at their mature stage, with the lacy veil attached, dried and packaged bamboo mushrooms are commonly available at Chinese markets. Once cooked, they become soft and gelatinous, absorbing the flavors of the broth.

Featured in: What It Takes to be a Bamboo Harvester in China’s Sichuan Province

Equipment

Yield: serves 6

Time: 1 hour 25 minutes

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 whole chicken, cut through the bone into 2- to 3-inch pieces
One 1-inch piece fresh ginger (½ oz.), peeled and thinly sliced
8 green Sichuan peppercorns
1 oz. (about 4 cups) dried bamboo mushrooms
1 large fresh bamboo shoot, peeled, halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced
Kosher salt
Thinly sliced scallions, for serving

Instructions

In a large pot over medium-high heat, add the oil. Once hot, add the chicken pieces and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned all over, 7–8 minutes. Add 8 cups cold water, the ginger, and the peppercorns. Bring the mixture to a boil, then adjust the heat to maintain a strong simmer. Continue simmering, skimming off and discarding any impurities that float to the surface, until the chicken is cooked through and the stock is flavorful, 45–50 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the bamboo mushrooms. In a large bowl, add the dried mushrooms and enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Position a small plate on top to keep the mushrooms submerged, and let soak until the mushrooms are soft, pliable, and hydrated, about 10 minutes.
Drain the mushrooms, discarding the soaking liquid, then cut them into 2-inch pieces.
Once the soup is done simmering, add the bamboo mushrooms and bamboo shoot, and continue cooking just until the bamboo pieces are slightly softened (everything should retain a bit of crunchiness), 10–15 minutes more. Taste and add salt as needed.
Divide the soup among 6 individual bowls, sprinkle each with some of the scallions, and serve hot.

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Fresh Bamboo Stir-Fry with Sweet Peppers

SAVEUR Editors — Thu, 01 Aug 2019 14:45:40 +0000

Garlic and ginger infuse thinly sliced fresh bamboo shoots with plenty of flavor, while red bell pepper adds color and sweetness. Jenny Huang

To remove the skin when preparing fresh bamboo, make a shallow cut lengthwise down the skin, then peel away and discard it. Cut off the inedible thicker end of the shoot. Never wash fresh bamboo with water, which can give it an unpleasant flavor. Instead, use a dry towel to brush away any dust or dirt.

Featured in: What It Takes to Be a Bamboo Harvester in China’s Sichuan Province

Equipment

Yield: serves 4

Time: 15 minutes

1 tsp. potato starch
2 Tbsp. lard or vegetable oil for stir-frying
One 1-inch piece fresh ginger (½ oz.), peeled and thinly sliced
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 fresh bamboo shoots (1¾ lb.), peeled, halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced (2 cups)
¹⁄₂ small red bell pepper (2 oz.), cut into 1-inch pieces
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. thinly sliced scallions, for serving

Instructions

In a small bowl, add the potato starch and 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cold water; stir well to combine. Set aside.
In a wok over very high heat, add the lard or oil, and swirl the pan to coat its surface. When the oil is smoking, add the ginger and garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, just until fragrant (avoid browning or burning the garlic), about 1 minute. Add the bamboo and bell pepper, and continue stir-frying until both are crisp-tender, 2–3 minutes. Season with kosher salt, pour in the potato-starch mixture, and let cook for 30 seconds more.
Transfer the mixture to a serving plate, top with the scallions, and serve hot.

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Chinese Bacon and Morel Mushroom Stir-Fry

SAVEUR Editors — Wed, 26 Jun 2019 20:32:58 +0000

While this dish is traditionally made with bamboo mushrooms called zhu maodu, morels are a great substitute—and an excellent foil for the rich Chinese bacon and salty, spicy Pixian broad bean chile paste. Jenny Huang

This dish—typically made with zhu maodu, or the brown tripe-like cap of the bamboo mushroom—can be made with morels instead, which have a similar texture and are widely used in Sichuan cooking. You can find cured, smoked Chinese pork belly or bacon (la rou) and Pixian broad bean chile paste—a salty, spicy, and fermented staple seasoning of Sichuan cuisine—at Chinese markets.

Featured in: What It Takes to Be a Bamboo Harvester in China’s Sichuan Province

Equipment

Yield: serves 4

Time: 20 minutes

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more as needed
5–6 dried xiao mi chiles, or substitute Thai or arbol, cut into ¼-inch pieces
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced (1 Tbsp.)
One 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced (1 Tbsp.)
10 whole green Sichuan peppercorns
2 large scallions, pale-green and white parts only, cut into 1-inch pieces
¹⁄₂ small green bell pepper (2 oz.), cut into 1-inch pieces
4 oz. smoked Chinese pork belly or bacon (la rou), thinly sliced lengthwise against the grain, then cut into 2-inch pieces
1 tsp. Pixian broad bean chile paste
1 cup fresh morel mushrooms or reconstituted dried morels, cleaned and halved lengthwise
Kosher salt

Instructions

In a wok over very high heat, add the oil, and swirl the pan to coat its surface. When the oil is smoking, add the chiles and cook, stirring constantly, until they are fragrant and darkened, about 1 minute. Add the garlic, ginger, Sichuan peppercorn, scallions, and bell pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant (avoid browning the garlic), about 1 minute. Add the bacon, and continue stir-frying until the meat is lightly browned at the edges, 2–3 minutes. Use a wok spatula or wooden spoon to push everything in the pan to one side, then add the broad bean chile paste to the center of the wok. If the pan is very dry, add an additional tablespoon or two of oil. Cook the paste, stirring constantly, until darkened, 2–3 minutes. Add the morels and stir well to combine. Continue stir-frying just until the mushrooms are tender, 2–3 minutes.
Taste and adjust the seasoning with kosher salt, if needed. Transfer to a large plate and serve hot.

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