Chicken | Saveur

Colombian Stewed Chicken with Achiote and Yam

Víctor Simarra Reyes — Thu, 22 Aug 2024 18:16:37 +0000

Juan Arredondo. Juan Arredondo

This dish is an ode to the tropical landscape and flavors that inform Colombia’s cuisine. Chef Víctor Simarra Reyes highlights yam, chicken, and cassava—all significant ingredients in African foodways—and uses achiote to enhance the region’s spicy, fruity, and peppery tastes. Sweet ají dulce peppers are plentiful in northern Colombia, and in this dish they play a starring role. If you’re unable to find them, you may substitute another mild, thin-fleshed green chile, such as shishito or cubanelle peppers.

Featured in “Colombia and West Africa Unite on the Plate in this Fascinating Food Town,” by Kayla Stewart.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

One 4–5 lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces
18 garlic cloves, finely chopped
10 ají dulce peppers, finely chopped
1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 large tomato, coarsely chopped
1 large yam, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 Tbsp. cumin seeds
2 Tbsp. achiote (annatto) powder
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
Kosher salt 4 cups coconut milk

Instructions

To a large pot, add the chicken, garlic, peppers, onion, tomato, yam, cumin, achiote, and lime juice and toss to combine. Turn heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes.
Add the coconut milk, bring to a boil, then turn heat down and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chicken and yam are tender, about 1½ hours. Remove from heat, season with salt to taste, and serve hot.

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Creole Coconut Chicken

Víctor Simarra Reyes — Thu, 22 Aug 2024 18:15:28 +0000

Juan Arredondo. Juan Arredondo

This creamy and aromatic chicken is cooked down in coconut milk, brightened with fresh tomato and lime. The resulting gravy pairs beautifully with cassava, a dense and starchy tuber integral to foodways of the African diaspora, particularly in Latin America. You may use one whole chicken or an equal weight of Cornish hens, which are traditional in Palenque, Colombia, cuisine.

Featured in “Colombia and West Africa Unite on the Plate in this Fascinating Food Town,” by Kayla Stewart.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

One 4–5 lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces
¼ cup fresh lime juice
2 medium white or yellow onions, finely chopped
2 large, ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
10 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
Kosher salt
4 cups coconut milk
Boiled cassava, for serving (optional)

Instructions

To a large pot, add the chicken and lime juice, tossing well to coat. Add the onions, tomatoes, and garlic, season lightly with salt, then add 4 cups of cool water. Set over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally.
Add the coconut milk, turn the heat to high, and bring to a full boil. Turn the heat back down to cook at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is very tender and the juices have thickened, about 2 hours. Remove from the heat, season to taste with salt and serve hot, with boiled cassava on the side, if desired.

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Grilled Chicken Tikka

Meherwan Irani — Wed, 02 Oct 2019 15:12:03 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Asheville, North Carolina chef Meherwan Irani’s marinade for these grilled chicken tikka kebabs achieves the perfect balance of yogurt, lime, and spices. Cutting the chicken into strips rather than the traditional whole chunks allows the meat to cook faster without drying out, and as an added bonus, increases the surface area in contact with the marinade. The same marinade and technique can also be used for lamb (boneless or chops), steak, or paneer.

Look for jars of ginger-garlic paste at your local Indian grocery store. If you can’t find it, make your own by pounding 6 garlic cloves with a 1½-inch piece of peeled ginger in a mortar and pestle, or by blending to a coarse paste in a food processor. Dried fenugreek leaves are a savory, aromatic herb reminiscent of maple syrup. Commonly used in Indian street food, chaat masala is a tangy mix of rock salt and spices including dried mango powder, asafetida, and black pepper.

Featured in “6 Magnificent Indian Grilling Recipes You Can Pull Off Indoors or Outdoors.”

Yield: 8

Time: 5 hours 10 minutes

1¼ cups Greek yogurt
¼ cup vegetable oil
3 Tbsp. ginger-garlic paste
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 1 lime)
2 Tbsp. Kashmiri chile powder
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
1 Tbsp. garam masala
1 tsp. dried fenugreek leaves (optional)
½ tsp. Indian red chile powder (or substitute cayenne)
½ tsp. ground cumin
2½ lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut on the bias, against the grain, into ½-in.-thick strips
½ cup melted ghee or unsalted butter, for basting
1 tsp. chaat masala (optional)

Instructions

Marinate the chicken: In a large bowl, whisk together the yogurt, oil, ginger-garlic paste, lime juice, Kashmiri chile powder, salt, vinegar, coriander, garam masala, fenugreek (if desired), Indian chile powder, and cumin until completely smooth. Add the chicken and toss gently to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 6. (Over-marination will make the meat mushy and soggy.)
Meanwhile, soak ten 8-inch bamboo skewers for at least 30 minutes.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high (about 450°F). (Alternatively, heat a grill pan over high.) Drain the skewers and shake off any excess water. Skewer the chicken: Start by pushing the tip of the skewer through one end of a chicken strip. Curve the strip and push the tip through the middle, then curve again and skewer the other end to create an S-shape. Push the strip to the far end of the skewer and repeat with more chicken, threading 4–5 strips per skewer.
Add the skewers to the grill side by side, spacing about 1 inch apart. Cover the grill and cook until lightly charred on one side, about 4 minutes. (If using a grill pan, cover the skewers with a large stainless steel bowl, or tent loosely with foil.) Open the grill and use tongs to flip each skewer, then cover and continue cooking until the opposite side is charred, about 3 minutes. Open the grill and flip each skewer once more. Baste the tops with ghee and continue cooking with the grill open until cooked through, 1–2 minutes more. Transfer to a platter, sprinkle with chaat masala (if desired), and serve hot.

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Chicken and Tomato Salad with Spicy Vinaigrette

Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson — Wed, 31 Jul 2024 17:37:48 +0000

Chris Bernabeo (Courtesy Clarkson Potter). Chris Bernabeo (Courtesy Clarkson Potter)

This recipe is brought to you by the SAVEUR Cookbook Club, our passionate community of food-loving readers from around the globe, celebrating our favorite authors and recipes. Join us as we cook through a new book every month, and share your food pics and vids on social media with the hashtags #SAVEURCookbookClub and #EatTheWorld.

Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson, the co-authors of the cookbook Kismet and the chefs behind the Los Angeles restaurant of the same name, call this dish a “tomato lovers’ chicken salad.” It’s an ideal opportunity to bring the best of the season’s heirloom tomatoes into your home kitchen. With lightly poached chicken, thick slices of tomato, handfuls of fresh herbs, and a spice-infused vinaigrette, it’s an ideal summer salad—light enough for the weather yet substantial enough for a feast.

The spiced oil for the vinaigrette can be prepared and stored in the refrigerator up to 3 days in advance; just wait to add the lemon juice until you’re ready to serve. If you want to change up the herbs in this recipe, Kramer and Hymanson recommend mint, basil, tarragon, and cilantro, as well as more esoteric options such as lovage, summer savory, and chervil.

Adapted from Kismet: Bright, Fresh, and Vegetable-Loving Recipes © 2024 by Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson. Photographs copyright © 2024 by Chris Bernabeo. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Crown Publishing Group.

Featured in “This New Cookbook Proves California Cuisine is Impossible to Pin Down” by Jessica Carbone.

Yield: 4

Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Ingredients

For the chicken:

1½ lb. boneless skinless chicken breasts
2 bay leaves
2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. kosher salt

For the chile vinaigrette:

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely grated
1 Tbsp. Aleppo pepper
2 tsp. ground sumac
1¼ tsp. ground coriander
1¼ tsp. ground fennel seeds
¾ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp. ground cardamom
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

For the salad:

3 small red tomatoes or 1 large heirloom tomato (about 1 lb.), cut into wedges
¼ small yellow onion, thinly sliced
2–3 cups arugula
½ cup cilantro leaves
½ cup parsley leaves

Instructions

Poach the chicken: In a large pot, place the chicken breasts in a single layer. Add the bay leaves, garlic, oil, salt, and enough water to cover the chicken (about 3 cups). Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then cover the pot and cook until the chicken is just opaque, about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and, with the pot still covered, allow the chicken to cook over the residual heat for 20 minutes. Uncover and allow the chicken to cool in the liquid for 30 minutes.
Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a plate, discarding the liquid. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, use your hands to shred it into large pieces, then set aside.
Make the chile vinaigrette: To a small skillet over low heat, add the oil and garlic, and cook, swirling frequently, until lightly golden, 5–8 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the Aleppo, sumac, coriander, fennel, salt, black pepper, and cardamom, and swirl the skillet, allowing the spices to bloom in the hot oil for 30 seconds. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the lemon juice.
Assemble the salad: To the bowl with the vinaigrette, add the tomatoes, onion, and shredded chicken, and toss to coat. Add the arugula, cilantro, and parsley, lightly toss to coat, and serve immediately.

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Char Siu Chicken

Chris Shepherd — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:11 +0000

Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Victoria Granof • Prop Styling: Dayna Seman. Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Victoria Granof • Prop Styling: Dayna Seman

Char siu (meaning “fork roasted”) is a typical cooking style in Cantonese cuisine, in particular for the method behind the beloved steamed pork buns on so many dim sum menus. In Houston chef Chris Shepherd’s succulent long-marinated chicken-based rendition, beet powder lends a naturally bright red color as well as a little sweetness.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 days 4 hours

¼ cup brown sugar
¼ cup honey
¼ cup ketchup
¼ cup soy sauce
3 Tbsp. homemade or store-bought beet powder
2 Tbsp. rice vinegar
1 Tbsp. hoisin sauce
½ tsp. Chinese five-spice powder
One 4-lb. whole chicken, halved lengthwise, backbone discarded
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a large bowl, whisk together the brown sugar, honey, ketchup, soy sauce, beet powder, vinegar, hoisin sauce, and five-spice powder. Add the chicken and toss to thoroughly coat. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 days.
Heat a grill or grill pan over medium heat. Remove the chicken from the marinade, rub with the oil, and season lightly with salt and black pepper. Place the chicken skin-side down and grill, turning once, until charred and cooked through, about 30–35 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and set aside to rest at room temperature for 15 minutes before carving into serving-sized pieces. Serve warm.

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Blueberry Barbecue Chicken

Vivian Howard — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:45:56 +0000

Tim Robison. Tim Robison

Similar to a shrub—a fruit syrup punctuated by vinegar—this blueberry sauce, or what celebrated Southern chef Vivian Howard calls Blue Q sauce, makes a bracing drink when mixed with club soda or booze. It’s also the first step in a fruity vinaigrette and is a perfect glaze on roasted or grilled chicken. Keep in mind this is not a marinade. Brush it on toward the end of cooking and let the chicken soak up more of the sauce before serving. The final soak is key. Follow our simple instructions for how to spatchcock a chicken, or ask your butcher to butterfly or spatchcock the bird by cutting out the backbone and sternum and flattening the bird.

Featured in “The First Lady of Carolina Cooking.”

Yield: 3–4 with extra sauce

Time: 12 hours

Ingredients

For the sauce:

3 cups blueberries
2 cups apple cider vinegar, divided
2 cups sugar
¼ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
1 bay leaf
One 3-in. cinnamon stick

For the chicken:

One 3-lb. whole chicken, spatchcocked (see headnote)
2 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

Make the sauce: To a food processor, add the blueberries and 2 tablespoons of the vinegar. Pulse to break up the berries and get some juices flowing.
Transfer the pulverized berries to a medium pot and add the sugar, chile flakes, bay leaf, cinnamon stick, and remaining vinegar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then turn the heat to low, cover the pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour.
Carefully transfer the hot sauce to a blender. Remove the knob from the top of the blender lid and cover with a dish towel to prevent an explosion. Blend the sauce until it’s as smooth as possible, then strain through a fine mesh sieve directly back into the pot. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced by about one-third of its original volume, 25–30 minutes. It should coat the back of a spoon and have the viscosity of maple syrup. Set the sauce aside to rest for 8–24 hours. It will keep for months, covered, in the refrigerator.
Make the chicken: Heat a gas or charcoal grill to to 350°F. Bring the chicken to room temperature 30 minutes before you plan to grill, then season with salt and black pepper.
Place the chicken, skin side up, on the grill and close the lid. Cook, covered, for 20 minutes. Baste with the blueberry sauce every 5 minutes for an additional 20 minutes, keeping the lid closed between basting. Using tongs, flip the chicken and continue cooking, basting with the blueberry sauce every 5 minutes and keeping the lid closed between basting, until the skin is caramelized and a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a thigh reads 165°F, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the chicken from the grill, toss in ½ cup of the blueberry sauce, and set aside to rest for 10 minutes. Carve the chicken into six or eight pieces and toss once more in another ½ cup of the blueberry sauce. Serve the chicken warm or at room temperature.

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Kung Pao Chicken

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:37 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Pearl Jones. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Pearl Jones

The Sichuan dish gong bao ji ding—often better known by its Americanized name kung pao chicken—is a dainty assemblage of small, plump chicken morsels, peanuts, and scallions, with just enough chiles to give it a kick. This recipe is adapted from China Club, a private club in Beijing that serves a thrilling menu of classic Chinese dishes: spicy Sichuan, delicate Cantonese, and rich Shanghainese, with refined versions of Beijing specialties as well.

Featured in “The Revolution is a Dinner Party” by David Sheff.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Nitri-Black Carbon Steel 14-Inch Wok here.

Yield: 4

Time: 40 minutes

4 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cubed
3 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine
2 Tbsp. sugar
3 Tbsp. chicken stock
4 tsp. Chinkiang (black) vinegar (or substitute balsamic vinegar)
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
2 tsp. Chinese dark soy sauce
3 Tbsp. vegetable or peanut oil
12 small dried red chiles, stemmed, halved crosswise, and seeded
5 scallions, white part only, thickly sliced crosswise
1 large garlic clove, thinly sliced
One ½-in. piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
½ cup shelled, skinless raw peanuts

Instructions

In a medium bowl, stir together 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and the cornstarch. Add the chicken, toss well, and set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a separate medium bowl, stir together the Shaoxing wine, stock, sugar, sesame oil, vinegar, dark soy sauce, and the remaining soy sauce.
To a large wok or nonstick skillet over high heat, add the vegetable oil. When it’s just beginning to smoke, add the chiles, half the scallions, the garlic, ginger, and the marinated chicken, and stir-fry until the chicken is golden, 3–5 minutes. Add the soy sauce mixture and continue stir-frying until the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes more.
Stir in the peanuts, garnish with the remaining scallions, and serve immediately.

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Sopa de Gallina (Salvadoran Chicken Soup)

Karla Tatiana Vasquez — Wed, 29 May 2024 18:36:25 +0000

Ren Fuller (Courtesy Ten Speed Press). Ren Fuller (Courtesy Ten Speed Press)

This recipe is brought to you by the SAVEUR Cookbook Club, our passionate community of food-loving readers from around the globe celebrating our favorite authors and recipes. Join us as we cook through a new book every month, and share your food pics and vids on social media with the hashtags #SAVEURCookbookClub and #EatTheWorld.

As Karla Tatiana Vasquez says in her book, The SalviSoul Cookbook, soup is an event in the Salvadoran household, “a reason to call the family and have a get-together,” and everyone has their own favorite sopa. Unlike American chicken soup, in this dish the chicken is removed after boiling, basted in a flavorful sauce, and grilled. It’s then carved and served alongside the soup, accompanied by plenty of rice, tortillas, and a green salad. Though sopa de gallina is traditionally made with an older hen (gallina), which gives it a much stronger flavor, this adapted recipe uses chicken, resulting in a subtle, restorative dish that makes any day worthy of celebration.

Featured in “This Salvadoran Cookbook Is Making History” by Jessica Carbone.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

One 4–5 lb. whole chicken or gallina (hen)
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more
6 garlic cloves, peeled
3 bay leaves
1 medium red onion, peeled and halved
1 medium tomato, halved
3 medium chayotes, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-in. pieces
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-in. pieces
2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-in. pieces
2 medium zucchini, peeled and cut into 1-in. pieces
4 basil stems
3 mint stems
¼ cup yellow mustard
2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. adobo sauce

Instructions

Rub the chicken with salt. Set aside.
To a large pot over medium-high heat, add the chicken, garlic, bay leaves, onion, tomato, and 10 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat to medium and simmer until the chicken is tender and cooked through, 50–60 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a large plate and set aside to cool.
Turn the heat to medium, then add the chayotes, carrots, and potatoes to the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the zucchini and continue cooking until tender, about 7 minutes more. Stir in the basil and mint, then season to taste with salt and set aside.
In a small bowl, stir together the mustard, Worcestershire, and adobo sauce. Rub the mustard mixture all over the chicken.
Place a comal, griddle, or large cast iron skillet over high heat. When it’s hot, place the chicken on the hottest part of the surface and cook just until the mustard mixture forms a crust, about 7 minutes. Using tongs, turn the chicken and continue cooking, turning occasionally, until seared all over, 15–20 minutes.
Carve the chicken and serve with the soup.

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Hong Shao Ji Tui (Red-Braised Chicken Legs)

Gary Yeung — Fri, 10 May 2024 14:45:00 +0000

Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Gary Yeung, a Boston native and a firefighter at the city’s Engine 10 firehouse, often applies the Chinese red-braising technique—a slow cooking method in which seasonings like soy sauce, sugar, and Shaoxing wine impart a reddish-brown color—to chicken legs when whipping up dinner for his team. Since firefighters regularly work 24-hour shifts, cooking and eating together is a nightly routine, and Yeung’s succulent red-braised chicken drumsticks recipe is always a crowd-pleaser among his crew.

Featured in “Around the Table with Boston’s Bravest” by Megan Zhang in the Spring/Summer 2024 issue.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Nitri-Black Carbon Steel 14-Inch Wok here.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

½ cup Shaoxing wine
¼ cup light soy sauce
3 Tbsp. brown sugar
2 Tbsp. oyster sauce
1 Tbsp. dark soy sauce
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground white pepper
4 lb. chicken drumsticks
3 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 scallions, thinly sliced, divided
One 2-in. piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced
1 tsp. cornstarch

Instructions

In a large bowl, stir together the Shaoxing wine, light soy sauce, sugar, oyster sauce, dark soy sauce, salt, and white pepper. Add the chicken and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.
Place a large wok over high heat. When it starts to smoke slightly, turn the heat to low, add the oil, and swirl to evenly coat. Add the garlic, three-quarters of the scallions, and the ginger, and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-high, add the chicken in a single layer (reserve the marinade), and cook, undisturbed, until the chicken is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Flip and continue cooking until lightly browned on the other side, about 2 minutes more. Turn the heat to medium, stir in the reserved marinade, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the cornstarch and 1 tablespoon of water. Turn the heat to high, add the cornstarch slurry to the wok, and cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce has thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining scallion, then transfer to a platter and serve warm.

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Creamy Gochujang Chicken Noodles

Gary Yeung — Fri, 10 May 2024 14:45:00 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Cooking and eating together is a nightly routine at Boston’s Engine 10 firehouse. Firefighters regularly work 24-hour shifts, so when they aren’t responding to disasters, crews frequently chop and braise together in the station kitchen. Firefighter Gary Yeung, a Boston native and passionate home cook, fused the flavors of Korean buldak and Italian American fettuccine Alfredo to create this creamy gochujang chicken noodles recipe. The fermented chile paste cuts the richness, yielding a best-of-both-worlds pasta dish.

Featured in “Around the Table with Boston’s Bravest” by Megan Zhang in the Spring/Summer 2024 issue.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

¼ cup gochujang
3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
2 Tbsp. gochugaru (Korean red pepper powder)
1½ tsp. honey
1 tsp. paprika
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp. kosher salt
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-in. pieces
1 lb. fettuccine
1½ cups heavy cream
3 Tbsp. soy sauce
3 scallions, whites and greens separated, thinly sliced
8 white mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 cup grated parmesan (optional)

Instructions

In a large bowl, stir together the gochujang, 1 tablespoon of the oil, the gochugaru, honey, paprika, black pepper, salt, and garlic. Add the chicken, toss to coat, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, add the fettuccine and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, 8–10 minutes. Reserve 1⁄2 cup of the pasta water. Strain the pasta.
In a bowl, whisk together the cream, soy sauce, and scallion whites. To a large skillet set over medium heat, add the remaining oil. When it is hot, cook the chicken, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, 2–3 minutes. Stir in the mushrooms and cook until softened, 2–3 minutes. Add the cream mixture and simmer until the chicken is fully cooked, 8–10 minutes. Stir in the fettuccine and cook until the sauce has thickened, 2–3 minutes (if the mixture becomes too dry, stir in 1 tablespoon of pasta cooking water at a time to loosen slightly). Stir in the scallion greens and parmesan (if desired) and serve warm.

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Thai Fried Chicken

Austin Bush — Thu, 18 Apr 2024 21:18:00 +0000

Austin Bush. Austin Bush

Near Thailand’s border with Malaysia, street vendors in the landlocked city of Hat Yai have perfected the art of fried chicken. This recipe for kai thawt haat yai infuses the chicken with flavor via a deeply savory brine of garlic, coriander seeds, sugar, soy sauce, and an optional—but highly recommended—dash of MSG. After frying in palm oil, what emerges is a sticky-sweet, bright orange, and irresistible taste of Southern Thai cuisine. Accompanied by a spicy-sweet dipping sauce and crispy fried shallots, and eaten in alternating handfuls with sticky rice, this is a dish that captures the vibrancy of the region.

Elements of this recipe can be easily adapted to fit taste and preparation preferences. The chicken can be a combination of bone-in cuts (though if using thighs and/or breasts, Bush suggests halving the pieces for easier frying). The MSG is easy to omit if needed, but Bush cautions that the dish will be missing some of its distinct flavor and bright orange color. Palm oil will allow for frying the chicken at a lower heat (and thus resulting in a crispier product), but you can also use vegetable oil. Glutinous sticky rice is traditionally made in a Thai-style pot and bamboo basket, but this recipe calls for steaming in a fine-mesh sieve with cheesecloth. Best of all, each element of the dish can (and should) be prepared in advance, making this an ideal make-ahead feast.

Featured in “Decades of Travel Inform This Guide to Southern Thai Cooking” by Jessica Carbone.

Yield: 4

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the chicken:

1 heaping cup garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
⅓ cup sugar
¼ cup coriander seeds
2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. fine salt
2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. light soy sauce
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. MSG, optional (see headnote)
2 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
4½ lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces
4 cups palm oil, or vegetable oil

For the fried shallots:

6–8 shallots (8 oz.), thinly sliced lengthwise
½ tsp. fine salt
4 cups palm oil, or vegetable oil

For the dipping sauce:

½ cup fresh red Thai chiles
⅓ cup garlic cloves, peeled
1 tsp. fine salt
1 cup sugar
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. white vinegar
1 tsp. tapioca starch

For the rice:

2¼ cups Thai sticky rice (also called glutinous rice or sweet rice)

Instructions

Brine the chicken: In a large bowl, stir together the garlic, sugar, coriander, salt, soy sauce, MSG (if using), white pepper, and 2 quarts of water until the salt and sugar are dissolved. Score each piece of chicken one or two times to the bone, then add to the brine, making sure the chicken is well submerged. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 5–24 hours.
Fry the shallots: In a large bowl, toss together the shallots and salt. Transfer to a small wok, add the palm oil, and heat over medium-low until a deep-fry thermometer reads 250°F. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are golden, fragrant, and toasted, 25–30 minutes.
In a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl, drain the shallots, allowing the oil to drip through. Set the oil aside and transfer the shallots to a paper towel-lined plate. Once the shallots are cool and crisp, transfer to an airtight container and set aside.
Make the dipping sauce: In a mortar and pestle or small food processor, grind the chiles, garlic, and salt into a coarse paste.
To a small pot, add the sugar, vinegar, and ½ cup of water. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture has reduced slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the chile paste and simmer until the sauce has thickened slightly and reduced by about half, 8–10 minutes.
In a small bowl, whisk together the tapioca starch and 1 tablespoon of water. Stir into the sauce and simmer until it has thickened to a syrupy texture, 2–3 minutes. Adjust the seasoning to taste, then transfer to an airtight container and set aside. (If making the sauce in advance, store it in the fridge.)
Prepare the rice: To a fine-mesh sieve, add the rice and gently rinse under running water, stirring with your fingers, until the water runs clear. Transfer to a bowl, cover with about 2 inches of water, and soak for 4–24 hours.
Cook the rice: Drain the rice, discarding the soaking water. Fill a large pot with 2–3 inches of water and bring to a boil. Line a fine-mesh sieve or bamboo steamer with cheesecloth, then add the rice to the sieve and set inside the pot. Cover with a lid that fully encloses the steamer, using a kitchen towel if necessary to create a tight seal, and cook until the rice is sticky and pliable, about 20 minutes. Using a spatula, carefully flip the entire mass of rice, then cover and continue cooking until the grains are tender and visibly stuck together, about 5 minutes more. Remove from the heat, transfer the rice to a large bowl or plate, and gently stir with a wooden spoon for about 10 seconds to release steam. Cover and keep warm.
Fry the chicken: Set a wire rack over a large baking sheet. Remove the chicken from the brine, wiping away any garlic or coriander seeds, and pat dry with paper towels. Into a large skillet or wok fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, add the palm oil and the reserved shallot oil, then turn the heat to high. When the temperature reads 350°F, working in batches, gently add the chicken and fry, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and cooked through with crispy, orange skin, 8–12 minutes per batch, depending on the cut. (If using different cuts of chicken, cook pieces of the same cut together.) Adding the chicken will lower the temperature of your oil, so adjust the heat and oil quantity as needed to maintain a temperature between 335°F and 350°F. Using tongs or a spider skimmer, transfer the chicken to the prepared rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
Transfer the fried chicken to a platter and serve hot or at room temperature with the fried shallots, dipping sauce, and sticky rice.

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