Pumpkin & Squash | Saveur

Ricotta-Stuffed Squash Blossoms with Fried Zucchini Coins

Stefano D’Onghia — Mon, 26 Aug 2024 19:22:17 +0000

Clay Williams. Clay Williams

Chef Stefano D’Onghia opened Botteghe Antiche on a storybook square in the town of Putignano after apprenticing at several high-end restaurants around Southern Italy. “You have to walk a careful line between respecting tradition and innovating,” he says of his constantly changing menu, which leans toward cheeky takes on Pugliese classics. This dish seems designed to foreground versatility: a single plant, torn asunder to build two very different experiences. The lightness of airy, minty ricotta nestled in delicate zucchini flowers provides a bite-by-bite counterpoint to the heartier fried zucchini coins.

Featured in “The Cuisine of Puglia Defies Definition,” by Sebastian Modak.

Yield: 4

Time: 50 minutes

2 medium zucchinis
8 zucchini flowers, with stems
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
¼ cup vegetable broth
3 scallions, ends discarded, cut into 3-in. lengths
Kosher salt
2 cups sheep’s milk ricotta
1 mint sprig, finely chopped
¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano

Instructions

Cut the zucchinis into ¼-inch coins, place on a clean kitchen towel, and leave to dry at room temperature for 24 hours.
Gently rinse the zucchini flowers. Remove the stems and coarsely chop them. (Set the flowers aside.) Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F.
To a medium skillet set over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons of the oil, the vegetable broth, and the chopped stems and cook until the stems are tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a blender, add the scallions and 2 more tablespoons of the oil, blend until smooth, and season to taste with salt.
In a small bowl, stir together the ricotta and mint and season to taste with salt. Fill the zucchini flowers evenly with the ricotta mixture and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle the pecorino evenly over the flowers and bake until the flowers are light golden brown, about 8 minutes.
To a medium skillet set over medium-high heat, add the remaining tablespoon of oil. When it is hot, working in batches, add the zucchini coins and cook, flipping once, until golden brown on both sides, about 5 minutes per batch.
To serve, dollop the zucchini-stem cream evenly onto four plates, using the back of a spoon to spread slightly. Divide the zucchini flowers and coins among the plates and serve warm.

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Seasonal Squash Tart

Alex Saggiomo — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:32 +0000

Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Barrett Washburne • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Barrett Washburne • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart

By using seasonal squash, this light and tasty dish—developed by Denver, Colorado-based chef Alex Saggiomo—can be made year-round. Try it with zucchini and yellow squash in the summer, then use all butternut in the fall. Feel free to get creative with the topping for this tart, which will help stretch leftover squash and other vegetables—whichever adventure you choose, it will pair beautifully with the buttery pastry and tangy goat cheese topping.

Yield: 2–4

Time: 2 hours

One 10- by 15-in. sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed and rolled out slightly to soften
½ medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into large cubes
3 garlic cloves
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
¼ cup heavy cream
½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest
3 Tbsp. fresh goat cheese, divided
1 medium yellow summer squash, sliced into ¼-in. rounds
1 medium zucchini, sliced into ¼-in. rounds
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F.
Line a large baking sheet with parchment, then place the puff pastry on it. Using a fork, create a border around the edges, poking holes throughout the dough of the sheet to prevent it from rising. Place another sheet of parchment over the top and place dried beans or pie weights over the surface. Bake until the edges rise slightly, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature. Turn the oven up to 400°F.
Line a second large baking sheet with foil, then arrange the butternut squash and garlic atop it in a single layer. Toss with oil and season lightly with salt and black pepper. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature. Turn the oven down to 375°F.
When the butternut squash has cooled, transfer to a food processor along with the cream, lemon zest, and half of the goat cheese, then process until smooth.
On the reserved pastry sheet, spread the butternut squash purée in an even layer, leaving a thin border along all four edges. Arrange the yellow squash and zucchini slices over the top, allowing each one to slightly overlap. Drizzle a little oil over the top, then dot with the remaining goat cheese. Bake until the squash is slightly browned, about 30 minutes. Remove the tart from the oven and allow to cool slightly. Cut into slices and serve warm or at room temperature.

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Three Sisters Stew

Lois Ellen Frank and Walter Whitewater — Wed, 22 Nov 2023 17:50:00 +0000

Get the recipe for. Photo by Lois Allen Frank

Named for three of the staple crops of many Indigenous nations—corn, squash, and beans—this rich, restorative stew is adapted from food historian and cookbook author Lois Ellen Frank’s book, Seed to Plate, Soil to Sky: Modern Plant-Based Recipes Using Native American Ingredients. Frank and Walter Whitewater, a Diné chef and the book’s culinary advisor, consider the trio a beautiful example of the interconnectedness of nature: Beans provide nitrogen to the soil, helping the corn to grow, while corn offers beans a pole to climb up; meanwhile, squash’s large leaves give shade to the soil, maintaining its moisture and keeping weeds at bay. The rib-sticking dish makes splendid use of this trifecta of Indigenous ingredients—and further enriches their aroma with a nutty, earthy blackened garlic paste. Serve this three sisters stew recipe with a side of bread, like Frank and Whitewater’s no-fry frybread recipe.

Excerpted from Seed to Plate, Soil to Sky: Modern Plant-Based Recipes Using Native American Ingredients by Lois Ellen Frank. Copyright © 2023. Available from Hachette Go, an imprint of Hachette Book Group, Inc.

Featured in “The Indigenous American Ingredients That Changed the Course of Food History,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 4-6

Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

¼ cup garlic cloves, peeled
2 tsp. sunflower oil
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
½ green bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped (about ½ cup)
1 zucchini, cut into ½-in. cubes
One 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes, preferably no salt added
One 15-oz. can dark red kidney beans, drained
One 15-oz. can pinto beans, drained
1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
1½ Tbsp. mild New Mexico red chile powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp. dried oregano
¼ tsp. dried thyme

Instructions

Preheat a medium cast-iron skillet over high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic blackens evenly on all sides, 15–20 minutes. (It’s okay if some of the original color is still visible.) Transfer the blackened garlic to a small bowl and cool for 5 minutes, then transfer to a food processor and pulse, scraping down the sides as needed, until a rough paste forms. Transfer to a container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use. (The blackened garlic will keep in the fridge for 3 days. To extend its life, add enough sunflower or olive oil to cover the garlic, and it will keep in the fridge for one week.)
In a large pot set over medium-high heat, cook the sunflower oil until it is hot but not smoking. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in 2 teaspoons of the blackened garlic and the tomatoes and cook, stirring continuously, until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Stir in the kidney beans, pinto beans, corn, chile powder, salt, black pepper, oregano, thyme, and 4 cups of water. Turn the heat to high and bring to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has reduced by about half, about 25 minutes.
Transfer to serving bowls and serve hot.

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Pumpkin Pie with Pine Nut-Pecan Crust

Lois Ellen Frank and Walter Whitewater — Wed, 22 Nov 2023 17:50:00 +0000

Get the recipe for Pumpkin Pie with Pine Nut-Pecan Crust. Photo by Lois Allen Frank

This pumpkin pie recipe, adapted from food historian and cookbook author Lois Ellen Frank’s Seed to Plate, Soil to Sky: Modern Plant-Based Recipes Using Native American Ingredients, riffs on a U.S. holiday classic by incorporating two Indigenous ingredients: pine nuts and pecans. In the past, when there was no wild game, or a hunt was unsuccessful, both nuts provided Native communities with protein, calories, and nutritious plant-based fats. Not only does this subtly sweet pumpkin pie recipe, topped with an irresistible coconut whipped cream, nod to the cultural importance of these two ingredients, it’s also a festive addition to any autumnal holiday celebration. As an added bonus, it happens to be both vegan and gluten-free. Follow our pumpkin pie spice recipe to make your own at home.

Featured in “The Indigenous American Ingredients That Changed the Course of Food History,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 8

Time: 4 hours

Ingredients

For the crust:

1 cup (3.9 oz/112g) raw pecans
1 cup (5 oz/142g) raw pine nuts
¼ cup sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. kosher salt
3 Tbsp. sunflower oil

For the filling:

One 15-oz. can unsweetened pumpkin purée
¾ cup full-fat unsweetened coconut milk
⅔ cup packed brown sugar
¼ cup arrowroot powder
2 tsp. pumpkin pie spice

For the coconut whipped cream:

Two 13.5-oz. cans full-fat unsweetened coconut milk, chilled overnight
1 Tbsp. agave nectar
1 tsp. vanilla bean paste
1 tsp. ground cinnamon

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with a round of parchment paper. (Alternatively, use a pie dish coated with sunflower oil or nonstick spray.)
Make the crust: To a food processor, add the pecans, pine nuts, sugar, cinnamon, and salt and pulse until the mixture resembles small pebbles. Add the sunflower oil and pulse again until a rough dough forms. Transfer to the pan, firmly pressing the dough into an even layer along the bottom and sides of the pan. Place on a baking sheet and bake until the crust is golden-brown and fully set, 20–25 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and set aside to cool.
Meanwhile, make the filling: In a large bowl, whisk together the pumpkin purée, coconut milk, brown sugar, arrowroot powder, and pumpkin pie spice until well-combined and no lumps remain.
Pour the pumpkin mixture into the baked crust and tap on the counter a few times to remove any air bubbles. Return to the oven and bake until the filling is fully set and browned, about 45 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and set aside to cool to room temperature, then chill in the fridge for at least 2 hours, up to 24 hours.
Make the coconut whipped cream: Open the coconut milk cans and, using a spoon, poke a hole through the solids on top. Set a fine sieve over a medium bowl and strain out the liquid, reserving any solids in the sieve. (Use the liquid within a few days, or freeze for later use. If the solids and liquid haven’t separated, scoop out and use the thickest part of the milk, usually about half the can, and save the rest for later use.) To a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or to a large bowl with a handheld mixer, transfer the coconut solids. Add the agave and vanilla and beat until stiff peaks form, 2–3 minutes, then beat in the cinnamon. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
Cut the pie into slices, top each with a dollop of the whipped cream, and serve.

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Minestra di Verdure

SAVEUR Editors — Wed, 12 Jul 2023 17:43:13 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This Grandmas Project recipe for minestra di verdure—a chunky Mediterranean vegetable soup—is a great way to cook through a bumper crop of late-summer veggies, which you can vary depending on what’s available (or on sale). We love serving this stew the day after it’s made to let the flavors marry. Minestra makes an even more complete, satisfying meal when served with crusty baguette and a runny fried egg on top.

Featured in “This Italian Nonna’s Vegetable Soup Is a Portal to Her Past,” by Rooksana Hossenally.

Yield: 4

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

One 15-oz. can cannellini beans, drained
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving (optional)
8 oz. celery root, peeled and cut into ½-in. pieces (about 2 cups)
8 oz. red kuri squash, peeled and cut into ½-in. pieces (about 1⅔ cups)
4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ½-in. pieces
3 medium zucchini, cut into ½-in. pieces
2 medium leeks, tops and bottoms discarded, cleaned and coarsely chopped
2 medium turnips, cut into ½-in. pieces
¼ large fennel bulb (3 oz.), coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small bowl, using a potato masher or handheld blender, coarsely purée ½ cup of the beans with ½ cup of water and set aside.
To a large pot set over medium heat, add the oil, celery root, squash, carrots, zucchini, leeks, turnips, and fennel and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened slightly and are beginning to brown, about 15 minutes.
Stir in the puréed and whole beans, the tomato paste, and 4 cups of water and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Turn the heat to low and continue cooking, adding hot water as needed to maintain a thick, soupy texture, until the vegetables are fully soft, about 45 minutes. Divide evenly among four bowls and drizzle with olive oil if desired.

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Pumpkin and Sage One-Pot Pasta

Benjamin Kemper — Wed, 23 Nov 2022 21:41:35 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s weeknight cooking column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest ideas that require just one pot, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

Thanksgiving has come and gone, and in its wake is all that butter and sage and pumpkin you thought you were going to use up. What now? Cook this 30-minute pumpkin sage pasta recipe that’s low on cleanup and big on cozy fall flavor. The sauce gets an undertow of umami from a scoop of white miso—just remember that the paste can be salty, so taste before seasoning. Sprinkled with parm for richness and pumpkin seeds for crunch, this shockingly easy pasta happens to be vegetarian.

Yield: 4

Time: 30 minutes

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
16 fresh sage leaves, plus 1 Tbsp. finely chopped
½ cup finely chopped shallots (about 3 medium)
1 cup canned pumpkin purée
3 Tbsp. shiro (white) miso
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh sage leaves
1 lb. dry rigatoni pasta
2 tsp. dark brown sugar or maple syrup
Pinch ground cinnamon
1½ cup finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano (4 oz.), plus more for garnish
2 tsp. cider vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly grated nutmeg
Toasted salted pumpkin seeds, for garnish

Instructions

In a large pot set over medium heat, melt the butter. When the foam subsides, add the sage leaves and fry until crisp and just beginning to brown, 1–2 minutes. Using a fork, transfer to a small bowl. Add the shallots to the butter and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent, about 7 minutes. Stir in the pumpkin, miso, and chopped sage and cook until hot and beginning to sizzle, about 3 minutes more. Stir in 4¾ cups cups of water, then add the rigatoni, brown sugar, and cinnamon and turn the heat to high. When the liquid boils, turn the heat to medium and cover. Cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot every 2 minutes to prevent sticking, until the pasta is nearly al dente, about 11 minutes.
Turn the heat to high and boil, stirring continuously, until the sauce has reduced slightly, about 2 minutes more. Remove from the heat. Stir in the Parmigiano, vinegar, and salt and nutmeg to taste and serve immediately, sprinkled with the pumpkin seeds, fried sage leaves, and more Parmigiano.

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Autumn Vegetable Tagine with Bulgur Wheat

Romy Gill — Fri, 18 Nov 2022 20:43:49 +0000

Photography by David Malosh; Food Styling by Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Tagines—North African stews named for the conical covered pots in which they’re traditionally cooked—are widely loved throughout Europe, the U.K., and beyond. This vegetarian tagine recipe, inspired by a Claudia Roden dish a friend once cooked for me when I first moved from India to England, is one of my family’s favorites. Our kitchen is a happy place whenever I make it. The sweet and gently spicy stew reminds me of my mum’s wholesome cooking, and it was a great comfort to me when I was lonely and homesick in a new country. I love that the recipe is simple and economical enough for my eldest daughter to cook for herself at the university. If you’re strapped for time, do what she does and swap in whatever frozen or leftover vegetables you have in the fridge.

My friend, Moroccan chef and cookbook author Nargisse Benkabbou, likes to use a stock cube for dishes like this, finding that the pantry staple lends a helpful hit of concentrated flavor without diluting the stew, which should be saucy and rich and not too watery. Couscous is the classic accompaniment, but I like to swap it out for nutritious and flavorful bulgur wheat.

Yield: 6

Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

For the tagine:

10 oz. peeled sugar pumpkin, cut into 1½-in. chunks
10 oz. peeled winter squash (such as butternut or acorn), cut into 1½-in. chunks
2 large red or white onions, thickly sliced (3 cups)
1 medium yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and cut into ½-in. strips
1 medium sweet potato, peeled and cut 1½-in. chunks
¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
2 tsp. ground cumin, divided
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
One 15-oz. can chopped tomatoes
2 tsp. harissa
1 tsp. ground coriander, plus more to taste
1 vegetable stock bouillon cube dissolved in 2 Tbsp warm water
One 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
10 dried apricots, coarsely chopped
Coarsely chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

For the bulgur:

1½ cup bulgur wheat
½ tsp. kosher salt
¼ cup dried cherries, finely chopped
¼ cup raisins, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. dried chives

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 425ºF; line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. To a large bowl, add the pumpkin, squash, onions, bell pepper, and sweet potato. Add 6 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon cumin, and ½ teaspoon salt, and toss to coat. Transfer the vegetables to the lined baking sheet, and roast, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften and turn golden brown, 20–25 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large tagine or heavy pot, warm the remaining olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until just browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in the canned tomatoes and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is fragrant, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining salt and cumin and the harissa, coriander, and vegetable broth, then add the chickpeas and cook until heated through, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
Once the roasted vegetables are cooked, return the pot of sauce to low heat. Stir in the roasted vegetables and apricots and cook, stirring occasionally, until the roasted vegetables are completely tender, about 10 minutes. Adjust the seasoning to taste with more salt, then remove from the heat. Cover and keep warm while you prepare the bulgur.
In a large bowl, stir together the bulgur wheat and 1½ cups boiling water. Set aside to soak at room temperature for 5 minutes, then add the cherries, raisins, and chives and toss gently to combine. Set aside again until the bulger is tender, the dried fruit is plump and hydrated, and all of the water has been absorbed, about 15 minutes more.
To serve, scoop the warm bulgur into bowls, top with the vegetable tagine, and garnish with fresh cilantro, if desired.

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Chai-Spiced Pumpkin Basbousa

Majed Ali — Fri, 18 Nov 2022 15:40:06 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAJED ALI

At its simplest and most traditional, basbousa—also known as namoura and harisa—is a semolina cake soaked in sugar syrup. The fluffy crumb absorbs the syrup resulting in a crumbly-yet-moist pudding that’s widely loved throughout the Middle East. Home and pro bakers in the region have adapted this cake over time and there are numerous variations. Some add shredded coconut and some flavor the sugar syrup with orange or lemon peel. Others include a floral whisper with the addition of rose or orange blossom water. For this recipe, though, I also drew inspiration from the West.

Back in the fall of 2017, I was living in Houston, nursing my dad who had been diagnosed with cancer. I missed the flavors of home and yearned to sit with loved ones in our majlis back home, savoring small pieces of basbousa with cups of spiced afternoon chai.

In the U.S.—as elsewhere in the world—fall is peak pumpkin season, and when I visited Houston’s neighborhood grocery stores, I couldn’t take my eyes off the mountains of multicolored fresh specimens, shelves upon shelves of pumpkin spice products, and the pyramid-shaped display of canned pumpkin purée. Pumpkin is an important ingredient in Persian Gulf regional cuisine—I grew up eating it in stews, soups, and puddings. But in the UAE, canned pumpkin doesn’t really exist. There, cooks prefer making pumpkin purée from scratch, either by boiling it until soft, or roasting it in the oven until charred and faintly smoky. This simple and nostalgic pumpkin spice cake works well using either the canned or roasted version. Serve it warm or at room temperature with a drizzle of cold cream, or a dollop of labneh or crème fraîche.

Yield: 12

Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

For the basbousa:

9 Tbsp. melted unsalted butter, plus more for greasing
1¾ cup fine semolina
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1 tsp. cinnamon
½ tsp. fine sea salt
¼ tsp. nutmeg
¾ cup sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
3 large eggs
¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. pumpkin purée
Finely-chopped pistachio, or any nut, for garnish

For the chai syrup:

1 cup sugar
3 chai teabags
5 green cardamom pods, crushed
1 cinnamon stick
3 cloves
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice

Instructions

Make the basbousa: Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350° F. Grease an 8- by 8-inch square cake pan and line the bottom and two sides with a sheet of parchment paper, leaving 3 inches of overhang on two of the sides.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the semolina, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg. In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, sugar, and vanilla. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, then continue whipping until the batter is frothy, about 2 minutes. Gently fold the dry ingredients into the butter mixture just until no dry streaks remain, then fold in the pumpkin purée. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, smooth the surface, and bake until a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean, 25–30 minutes. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, make the chai syrup: In a small pot, stir together the sugar and 1½ cups water over low heat until the sugar has completely dissolved, about 2 minutes. Add the teabags, cardamom, cinnamon stick, and cloves, bring it to a boil, then turn the heat down to maintain a strong simmer. Cook until the syrup is concentrated and deeply flavorful, about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, remove and discard the spices, then transfer the teabags to a small sieve. Hold the sieve above the saucepan, pressing on the teabags to extract as much liquid as possible, then discard them. Stir in the butter and orange juice, then set the syrup aside to cool to room temperature.
When the cake has cooled, poke it all over with a toothpick, around 12 times. Pour the cooled syrup over the cake, cover loosely with foil, and set aside for 1 hour to allow the cake to absorb the liquid. Slice the basbousa into 12 pieces and serve warm or at room temperature. Basbousa keeps well in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

Note: While canned pumpkin works well in this basbousa recipe, I prefer the flavor and texture of oven-roasted pumpkin purée. To make your own, start with two small sugar pumpkins, slice them in half lengthwise, then scoop out and discard the seeds (or save them for another use). Transfer the pumpkins, cut-side-down, to a large baking sheet, transfer to a 400° F-oven and roast until the flesh is very soft and slightly charred in places. Set aside to cool to room temperature, then use a spoon to scoop the flesh away from the skin. Using a fork or potato masher, smash the flesh to a purée.

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Braised Winter Squash with Fermented Black Beans

Hannah Che — Thu, 10 Nov 2022 15:40:07 +0000

Reprinted with permission from The Vegan Chinese Kitchen by Hannah Che copyright © 2022. Photographs by Hannah Che. Published by Clarkson Potter, a division of Penguin Random House, LLC. Reprinted with permission from The Vegan Chinese Kitchen by Hannah Che copyright © 2022. Photographs by Hannah Che. Published by Clarkson Potter, a division of Penguin Random House, LLC.

This recipe is brought to you by SAVEUR Cookbook Club, our passionate community of food-loving readers from around the globe celebrating our favorite authors and recipes. Join us as we cook through a new book every two months, and share your food pics and vids on social media with the hashtags #SAVEURCookbookClub and #EatTheWorld.

Similar to red-braising (紅燒 hóngshāo)—the Shanghainese technique of slowly cooking in a flavorful concoction of ingredients like soy sauce, rice wine, and sugar—smother-braising (燜 mèn) is simpler and shorter and often relies on more delicate, lighter-colored condiments. In this braised winter squash recipe, the technique allows the vegetable’s beautiful orange hue to shine through.

In this dish, from cookbook author Hannah Che, winter squash’s natural sweetness is complemented by salty, savory fermented black beans. The squash cooks until buttery and tender, on the verge of falling apart. Che suggests seeking out kabocha squash, which has a velvety, starchy softness and flavor reminiscent of roasted chestnut, but any firm-fleshed winter squash, like red kuri, butternut, or Hubbard, will also work.

One 1-lb. winter squash
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4–5 dried Tianjin or Sichuan chiles, snipped into ½-inch pieces and seeds shaken out
1 Tbsp. fermented black beans, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 cup unsalted vegetable stock of any kind, or water
1 tsp. sugar, plus more as needed
½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed
½ tsp. toasted sesame oil
Pinch freshly ground white pepper
1 scallion, green part only, thinly sliced

Instructions

Peel and core the squash and cut it into 1½-inch wedges. Cut each wedges into ½- by 1½-inch pieces.
Heat a wok over high heat, then add the vegetable oil, swirling to coat the inside surface. Add the dried chiles and stir-fry just until they begin to darken in color, about 10 seconds. Add the fermented black beans and garlic and let them sizzle until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the squash and stir to coat in the fragrant oil, then pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Add the sugar and salt, then cover, and turn the heat down to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until the squash has absorbed most of the liquid and is tender enough to pierce with a chopstick, 5–7 minutes.
Uncover the wok and adjust the seasoning to taste with more sugar and salt. Remove from the heat, stir in the sesame oil and a white pepper, scatter the sliced scallions on top, and serve.

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Our Best Pumpkin Recipes Celebrate the Flavor of Fall

SAVEUR Editors — Thu, 06 Oct 2022 16:57:39 +0000

Photography: Linda Pugliese; Food Stylist: Mariana Velasquez; Prop Stylist: Elvis Maynard

Pumpkin lovers, rejoice! ‘Tis the season once again for pumpkin-y lattes, soups, pies—and even beer.

America has a millennia-old affinity for the humble squash. Early Indigenous planters grew it alongside corn and beans according to the Three Sisters method, which enriched the soil and made for abundant harvests season after season. They used every part of the plant, down to the nutrient-packed seeds.

Given this rich history, cooking with pumpkin is truly a celebration of the Americas’ culinary heritage. Whether you reach for an heirloom variety, like Hooligan, Cotton Candy, or Dutch Fork, or crack open a can of p umpkin purée, keep these recipes handy all autumn long.

Pumpkin Cheesecake

Photography: Linda Pugliese; Food Stylist: Mariana Velasquez; Prop Stylist: Elvis Maynard

This cheesecake has a zingy walnut-gingersnap crust and a rich cream filling with a punch of rum. Get the recipe >

Maple Pumpkin Brûlée Pie

Photography by Andrew Ingalls

A glug of maple syrup adds natural sweetness to this caramelized autumn dessert. Get the recipe >

Easy Pumpkin Pie with Press-In Oat Crust

Photography by Thomas Payne

Toasted pumpkin seeds and old-fashioned rolled oats make this hand-formed crust a snap. Get the recipe >

Pumpkin Pie Ice Cream Pie

Those who take their pumpkin pie “à la mode” will rave about the velvety ice cream filling of this rendition. To top things off? A drizzle of hot fudge, please. Get the recipe >

Mango and Pumpkin Spice Cake

Photography by Ryan Liebe

In this recipe shared by Senegalese chef Pierre Tham, ripe mango adds tropical brightness to a pumpkin cake infused with ginger and cinnamon. Get the recipe >

Farmers’ Cheese with Onion and Pumpkin Seed Oil

Photography by Chris Court

Cold-pressed pumpkin seed oil from Slovenia is the secret to this savory spread that we love to slather on toast rounds or serve as a dip with crunchy radishes. Get the recipe >

Pumpkin Seed Brittle

Photography by Thomas Payne

Save the seeds when carving Halloween pumpkins for a sweet-and-savory twist on this old-school treat. Get the recipe >

Steirische Kernöl Eierspeise (Styrian Scrambled Eggs with Pumpkin Seeds and Oil)

Photography by Thomas Payne

From Austria’s southeast, this filling breakfast scramble is loaded with shallots, ham, and Emmentaler cheese, all topped with toasted pumpkin seeds. Get the recipe >

Pumpkin Soup with Orange and Parmigiano-Reggiano

Photography by Anders Schonnemann

Try making this creamy soup with a mellow, heirloom pumpkin variety like Hokkaido, also called red kuri, which has a distinct chestnut flavor. Acorn or kabocha squash are good substitutes. Get the recipe >

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The post Our Best Pumpkin Recipes Celebrate the Flavor of Fall appeared first on Saveur.

Summer Squash Tacos with Queso Fresco and Avocado Salsa

Fatima Khawaja — Mon, 22 Aug 2022 18:59:26 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAOLA + MURRAY; FOOD STYLING BY BARRETT WASHBURNE; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

Welcome to SAVEUR’s column on how to cook local produce according to our test kitchen manager, Fatima Khawaja. This is where you’ll find creative, unfussy meal ideas plus plenty of cooking advice—like what to do with that bumper crop of zucchini or how to store delicate heirloom tomatoes. Every other week, Fatima hits the farmers market and chooses a peak-season ingredient to explore in depth. Follow along, and you’ll learn how to turn the season’s bounty into easy plant-based meals that’ll be on the table in under an hour.

“All the fruits and vegetables are exceptional in Baja” Javier Plascencia tells me. The Tijuana-born chef heads up six restaurants across the peninsula and he’s well known for his expertise in making local ingredients shine. When we met in Cabo San Lucas earlier this year, onboard Animalón by the Sea (Plascencia’s new floating ocean-to-table restaurant), we chatted about the produce Mexico’s west coast and New York City’s farmers markets have in common—particularly the green and yellow summer squash that flood our markets and kitchens in July and August.

Squash are indigenous to North, Central, and South America and these plants have been an important part of the Mexican diet for millennia—upwards of 10,000 years by some estimates. Summer squash can be identified by their thin and tender skin, which sets them apart from heartier winter varieties. Like winter squash, though, the thin-skinned fruit (yes, squash is a fruit) is available in a plethora of shapes, varieties, and sizes. When left to grow in the field, they can become enormous (the largest on record exceeded 2,000 pounds), but in general, farmers and gardeners prefer to harvest their squash a little young, when the flesh is at its sweetest, most flavorful, and least watery. I personally love dainty patty pan squash, which can be cooked and enjoyed whole—but don’t worry if you find yourself with an oversized specimen: these can be grated and baked into a beautiful quickbread or chunked up for a classic ratatouille.

Plascencia likes to blend fresh local squash with fava beans and use the resulting purée as a filling for tacos. For my own Baja-inspired riff, I opted to keep this star ingredient simple, chunky, and a little bit al dente. I perfumed the squash with cumin and red chile powder, piled it into fresh corn tortillas, then topped the tacos with queso fresco, onions, and Plascencia’s tart and creamy avocado salsa.

Whether you’re growing your own summer squash or buying them from the market, this ingredient always arrives in abundance. Store summer squash and zucchini in a dry place in your fridge, trim away any mushy spots before using, and discard entirely any that become slimy.

Yield: 6 tacos

Time: 40 minutes

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4 medium yellow summer squash (1¼ lb.), cut into 1-in. chunks
¾ tsp. ground cumin
¼–¾ tsp. cayenne pepper
Kosher salt
1 medium avocado, peeled and pitted
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, plus lime wedges for squeezing
¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish
Six 6-in. corn tortillas
½ small yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 cup crumbled queso fresco (5 oz.)

Instructions

To a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the oil. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add the squash, cumin, and cayenne. Season lightly with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until light golden and barely tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, adjust the seasoning to taste, and set aside.
To a blender, add the avocado, lime juice, cilantro, and ¼ cup of water. Blend until smooth, season to taste with salt, and set aside.
Assemble the tacos: Either directly over a gas burner or in a dry cast iron skillet set over medium-high heat, toast the tortillas, turning once, until soft and pliable, about 1 minute. Transfer to a platter in a single layer.
To serve, evenly spoon the squash atop the tortillas, then top each taco with the reserved avocado salsa, onion, and queso fresco. Garnish with cilantro and serve warm, with lime wedges for squeezing.

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The post Summer Squash Tacos with Queso Fresco and Avocado Salsa appeared first on Saveur.