Issue 150 | Saveur

Rossini

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:23 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Pearl Jones. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Pearl Jones

A luscious take on the bellini, the Rossini swaps in strawberries for the latter drink’s white peaches, and prosecco for champagne. Serve this versatile cocktail in place of mimosas at brunch, as an aperitif, or with dessert.

Featured in the October 2012 issue.

Yield: Makes 4–6 cocktails

Time: 10 minutes

½ lb. fresh strawberries
One 750-ml bottle prosecco, chilled

Instructions

Set aside a few strawberries for garnish, then hull the rest. Transfer the hulled strawberries to a blender and process until smooth. (You should have about 1 cup of purée.)
To serve, add 2 tablespoons of the strawberry purée to a chilled champagne or coupe class. Top with the prosecco, stir to combine if desired, and garnish with a reserved strawberry. Repeat with the remaining purée, prosecco, and strawberries.

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Mango Lassi

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:47:54 +0000

Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Use the ripest, sweetest, smoothest mangoes you can find, such as Champagne or Haitian varieties, to make this yogurt-enriched Indian fruit shake. Striking the perfect balance between sweet and tart, this mango lassi makes a fine breakfast smoothie, or cooling accompaniment to spicy meals.

Yield: Makes 4

Time: 1 hour 5 minutes

3 cups plain yogurt (not Greek-style)
¼ cup sugar
½ tsp. kosher salt
1 large ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and coarsely chopped
Coarsely chopped pistachios, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

To a blender, add the yogurt, sugar, salt, and mango, and pulse until smooth. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour. Pour into glasses, garnish with pistachios if desired, and serve.

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Salmorejo

Alex Raij — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:23 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

I first encountered salmorejo—gazpacho‘s thicker, more decadent cousin—in Madrid. The cool and creamy tomato soup transcended seasonality. It was topped with egg and jamón ibérico, which wept fatty tears over its surface. Salmorejo demands that you act as a Spaniard and mop up every drop with bread. Then, like an American, you order another bowl.

Yield: 8

Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

3 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
8 plum tomatoes, halved and seeded
1 baguette (10 oz.), preferably stale, cut into large pieces
1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped
½ small yellow onion
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar, plus more to taste
1½ cups finely chopped Ibérico or serrano ham, or prosciutto
3 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped

Instructions

To a blender, add the salt, tomatoes, baguette, garlic, onion, and enough boiling water to cover; set aside for 1 hour.
Reserve 1 cup of the liquid. Drain the vegetables and return them to the blender. Add the oil, vinegar, and reserved liquid. Purée until silky, then season with salt and additional vinegar to taste. Refrigerate until chilled.
Pour the salmorejo into eight bowls and top evenly with the ham, eggs, and a drizzle of oil.

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Twelve Mile Limit Cocktail

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:35 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Journalist and war correspondent Tommy Millard is said to have created this Prohibition-era cocktail. The potent drink takes its name from the U.S. law that banned the consumption of alcohol a dozen miles beyond its shores. The very drink it inspired taunts the measure with its especially strong yet beachy combination of rum, whiskey, brandy, grenadine, and lemon juice.

While you can certainly use store-bought grenadine here, it’s also worth trying our easy at-home version made with fresh pomegranate juice.

Yield: Makes 1 cocktail

Time: 5 minutes

1 oz. silver rum
¹⁄₂ oz. brandy
¹⁄₂ oz. grenadine
¹⁄₂ oz. fresh lemon juice, plus 1 lemon twist for garnish
¹⁄₂ oz. rye whiskey

Instructions

To a cocktail shaker filled halfway with ice, add the rum, brandy, grenadine, lemon juice, and rye. Shake until chilled, about 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled highball glass and top with the lemon twist.

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Steak Diane

SAVEUR Editors — Sat, 25 Sep 2021 14:50:00 +0000

Maura McEvoy

Considered a signature entrée at Manhattan’s beloved Drake Hotel, Steak Diane is widely attributed to Beniamino Schiavon, the Drake’s maître d’hôtel from 1942 to 1967. The hitch? Schiavon probably invented the sirloin’s flambéed cream sauce in collaboration with chef Luigi Quaglino during the 1930s, when the two worked together in Belgium. And though many assume the name references the Roman goddess of the hunt, The New York Times, in its 1968 obituary of Schiavon, described the titular Diane only as a “beauty of the 1920s.” SAVEUR’s take on the steak, originally published in March 1997, upgrades the beef from the Drake’s original sirloin to tender filet mignon.

Featured in the March 1997 issue.

Yield: 4

Time: 35 minutes

Four 4-oz. filet mignon steaks
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1½ cups beef stock
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 2 tsp.)
1 medium shallot, finely chopped (about ¼ cup)
4 oz. oyster or hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, torn into small pieces (about 2 cups)
¹⁄₄ cup cognac
¹⁄₄ cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
¹⁄₄ tsp. Tabasco sauce
1 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
1 Tbsp. finely chopped Italian parsley

Instructions

Season the steaks generously with salt and pepper. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers, then add the steaks and cook, turning once, until evenly browned, 4–5 minutes for medium rare. Transfer to a plate to rest.
Meanwhile, return the skillet to medium-high heat and add the stock. Cook, stirring to deglaze, until the liquid is reduced by two-thirds, about 10 minutes. Pour the demi-glace into a heatproof bowl and set aside.
Return the skillet to medium-high heat and add the butter. When the butter is melted and the foam begins to subside, add the garlic and shallot, and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until they soften, release their liquid, and begin to brown, about 2 minutes more. Add the cognac, then carefully light with a long match or lighter to flambé, shaking gently until the flame dies down. Stir in the reserved demi-glace along with the cream, Dijon, Worcestershire, and Tabasco.
Return the reserved steaks to the skillet, lower the heat to simmer, and cook, turning to coat, until the sauce is thickened and the meat is warmed through, about 4 minutes. To serve, transfer the steaks to warmed serving plates; stir the chives and parsley into the sauce, and drizzle it over the steaks.

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Poutine

Anne-Marie White — Wed, 22 Apr 2020 14:07:11 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Quebec is synonymous with poutine, that rich, glorious mess of fried potatoes topped with beefy gravy and squeaky cheese curds. It’s a primo party snack, and making the dish from scratch is a flex your guests won’t soon forget. This recipe comes from former SAVEUR Test Kitchen Assistant and Toronto native Anne-Marie White, who stirs green peppercorns and Worcestershire into the gravy for added spicy depth. Cheese curds can be found at some regional supermarkets and online.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours 50 minutes

4 lb. unpeeled russet potatoes, scrubbed (about 4 large) and dried
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 shallot, finely chopped
4 cups beef stock, preferably homemade
2 Tbsp. ketchup
1 Tbsp. cider vinegar
1 Tbsp. green peppercorns
½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 cups cheddar cheese curds

Instructions

On a cutting board, square off the potatoes by slicing about ¼ inch from each of their 4 long sides. Cut each potato lengthwise into ¼-inch planks. Slice the planks into ¼-inch-thick fries. Transfer to a bowl, cover with cold water, and refrigerate to release the starch, about 2 hours.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking frequently, until smooth and golden, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and shallot and cook until soft, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the stock, followed by the ketchup, vinegar, green peppercorns, Worcestershire, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil, then simmer, whisking frequently, until thickened and smooth, about 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.
Line a baking sheet with paper towels and set it by the stove. Into a large pot fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour the oil to a depth of 3 inches and turn the heat to medium-high. Drain and dry the potatoes thoroughly with paper towels. When the temperature reads 325ºF, working in small batches, fry the potatoes, stirring occasionally, until limp and beginning to crisp, about 4 minutes. Turn off the heat. Using a spider skimmer, transfer to the baking sheet and set aside until cool, about 20 minutes.
Turn the heat to medium-high. When the temperature reads 375ºF, working in batches, fry the potatoes again until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the baking sheet to quickly drain, then transfer to a platter. Pour the gravy over the fries, scatter with the cheese curds, and serve immediately.

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The Ultimate Chocolate Mousse

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:34:02 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross

Few French desserts ignite the American culinary imagination quite like chocolate mousse. The dish is all about contrasts; it’s simple yet sophisticated, airy yet intensely flavorful. Our foolproof recipe sticks to traditional ingredients and the classic sequence of melting, whipping, folding, and chilling—no oven or fancy equipment required. Good-quality chocolate is a must for this recipe.

Yield: 4

Time: 35 minutes

4 large egg whites
½ cup sugar
1⅔ cups heavy cream
2 tsp. vanilla extract
¼ tsp. fine salt
6 oz. bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled
Chocolate shavings, for garnish

Instructions

In a large bowl, use a hand mixer to beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Add the sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form. Rinse and dry the beaters.
In another large bowl, use the hand mixer to beat the cream, vanilla, and salt until stiff peaks form.
Using a silicone spatula, fold the chocolate into the whites, mixing until only a few streaks remain. Add the whipped cream and fold until completely incorporated.
Divide among four serving cups, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. Serve chilled, sprinkled with chocolate shavings.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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Sauerbraten

Mimi Sheraton — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:42:05 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

It was in Cologne in 1963 that I finally solved the riddle of preparing sauerbraten. What I could not achieve until then was the golden glow that shimmers over the deep brown gravy; browning flour in the conventional einbrenne (roux) never yielded that result. But a generous chef demonstrated the secret: the addition of sugar to the einbrenne. It gilds the gravy even as its sweetness balances the sour lemon note and the zing of pickling spices. —Mimi Sheraton, author of The German Cookbook

Yield: 6–8

Time: 5 days

1 Tbsp. pickling spices
14 whole cloves
8 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
3 thyme sprigs
2 parsley sprigs
One 5-lb. beef eye of round
Kosher salt
2 cups red wine
1½ cups red wine vinegar
3 large onions, thinly sliced, divided
1 carrot, thinly sliced
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
4 bacon slices, finely chopped
Kosher salt, to taste
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. sugar
½ cup golden raisins
6 gingersnaps, crumbled
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley leaves

Instructions

Make a bouquet garni: In a square of cheesecloth, use twine to tie the pickling spices, cloves, peppercorns, bay leaves, thyme, and parsley into a tight bundle.
Salt the beef generously and place in a large bowl. In a pot, bring the wine, vinegar, one of the onions, the carrot, bouquet garni, and 4 cups of water to a boil. Pour over the beef, then cover and refrigerate, turning once or twice a day, for 5 days.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 325°F. Transfer the beef to a plate and pat dry with paper towels. Place a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl and strain the marinade. Reserve 5 cups of the marinade and the bouquet garni.
To a large, heavy-bottomed pot, add 2 tablespoons of the butter and the bacon and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is lightly browned and has rendered its fat, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. Add the beef and cook, turning every few minutes, until browned all over, 20–25 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add the remaining onions to the pot and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and deeply browned, about 18 minutes.
Return the beef to the pot. Add the reserved marinade and bouquet garni and bring to a boil. Cover and bake until the beef is very tender, about 2½ hours. Transfer the beef to a cutting board and tent with foil. Into a bowl, strain the sauce.
In the pot, melt the remaining butter over medium-high heat. Add the flour and sugar and cook, whisking continuously, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to high and whisk in the reserved sauce, raisins, gingersnaps, and lemon juice and boil until reduced slightly, about 7 minutes.
Thinly slice the sauerbraten and transfer to a platter. Ladle with the sauce, sprinkle with the bacon and parsley, and serve hot.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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Moussaka (Greek Eggplant Casserole)

Aglaia Kremezi — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:15 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

A good moussaka is “one of the most fabulous things you can eat,” according to Aglaia Kremezi, author of Mediterranean Hot and Spicy. Her recipe for the Greek eggplant casserole, inherited from her mother, is a labor of love requiring sautéing, frying, boiling, and baking—but it’s well worth the trouble. The components (meat sauce, béchamel, and fried eggplant and potatoes) can be prepared the day before assembling.

Yield: 8-10

Time: 4 hours 40 minutes

2 cups plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6 bay leaves
2 cinnamon sticks
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 lb. ground beef
¼ cup tomato paste
1½ tsp. ground cinnamon, divided, plus more for dusting
½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg, divided
¼ tsp. ground cloves
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
One 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups whole milk
4 large eggs
3 large eggplants, sliced into ¼-in.-thick rounds
5 medium russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into ¼-in.-thick rounds
1 cup coarsely grated graviera cheese, or Gruyère
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large pot set over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons of the oil, the bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, 5–7 minutes. Add the beef and cook until browned and all the liquid has evaporated, about 30 minutes.
Add the tomato paste, 1¼ teaspoons of the ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon of the nutmeg, and the cloves and cook until beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, tomatoes, and 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until nearly all the liquid has evaporated, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat, then discard the cinnamon sticks and bay leaves. Season generously with salt and black pepper and set aside.
Meanwhile, make the béchamel: In a medium bowl, beat the eggs. Melt the butter in a medium pot set over medium-high heat. Whisk in the flour and cook until light golden, about 2 minutes. Whisk in 1½ teaspoons of salt, the milk, and the remaining cinnamon and nutmeg. Cook, whisking frequently, until thick, about 10 minutes. Ladle about 1 cup of the béchamel into the egg, then whisk to combine. Pour the egg mixture back into the pot, then whisk until smooth. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. To a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the remaining oil. Lightly dust the eggplant slices with cinnamon slices. When the oil is hot and shimmering, working in batches, fry the eggplant (turning once) until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then add the potatoes and cook until barely tender, 8–10 minutes. Drain and transfer to an ice bath. When cool, drain and set aside.
On the bottom of a 10-by-14-inch baking dish, spread 1 cup of the béchamel. Sprinkle with ⅓ cup of the graviera. Spread the potatoes evenly over the cheese, then cover evenly with the eggplant. Pour the meat sauce over the top, then spread with the remaining béchamel. Top with the remaining graviera. Bake until bubbling and golden brown, about 1 hour.

Around the World in 26 Eggplant Recipes

Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

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West African-Style Peanut Stew

Jessica B. Harris — Mon, 11 Feb 2019 14:10:42 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

“Peanut stews are found across West Africa, with ancient roots in dishes made with native groundnuts before the peanut arrived from the New World in the 16th century,” writes Dr. Jessica B. Harris, historian and author of High on the Hog. “Some are thick and served over rice or millet couscous, others thin and soupy, depending on where in Africa you are.” This version, inspired by Malian maafe and Ghana’s groundnut stews, pairs chicken with a generous portion of okra, tomatoes, eggplant, and hot chiles, which lighten the stew’s intense richness. Still, it’s the indispensable peanut that gives this dish its essential earthy character.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

⅓ cup vegetable oil
2 lb. bone-in chicken thighs, skin discarded, patted dry with paper towels
Kosher salt
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
¼ cup finely chopped ginger
4 dried chiles de árbol
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. ground turmeric
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp. ground cumin
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. fenugreek seeds
3 whole cloves
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
¾ cup smooth salted peanut butter
4 cups homemade chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup canned diced tomatoes
1 medium eggplant (about 1 lb.), peeled and cut into 1-in. cubes
10 okra pods (about 4 oz.), cut into 1-in. lengths
Steamed white rice, for serving
1 fresh red chile, such as peri-peri or bird’s-eye, thinly sliced
Roasted salted peanuts, coarsely chopped, for garnish

Instructions

To a pot set over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons of the vegetable oil. Season the chicken generously with salt and cook, turning once, until lightly browned on both sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside.
To the empty pot, add the onion, ginger, chiles de árbol, and the remaining oil and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the coriander, turmeric, black pepper, cumin, cinnamon, fenugreek, and cloves and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until slightly darkened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the peanut butter, tomatoes, reserved chicken, and chicken stock and turn the heat to high. When the liquid boils, turn down the heat to medium-low and cook, partially covered, until the chicken is done but not falling off the bone, about 25 minutes. Add the eggplant and okra and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is very tender and the vegetables are soft, 25–30 minutes more. Season with salt to taste.
To serve, ladle the soup over rice, if desired, and sprinkle with the fresh chile and peanuts.

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Blanquette de Veau

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:09 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

This classic French dish of delicate veal, cream, carrots, mushrooms, and butter (and more butter) does in many ways feel like a blanketed dish—in which nothing is cooked to the point of browning, but rather velveted in a warm and comforting white sauce. Blanquette de veau consistently ranks in the top ten when the French are surveyed about their favorite dishes. Find more of our favorite classic French recipes here.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 3 hours

5–6 parsley sprigs
3 thyme sprigs
1 tsp. coriander seeds
2 garlic cloves
5 black peppercorns
2 whole cloves
1 bay leaf
3 lb. boneless veal shoulder, cut into 1-in. chunks
16 baby carrots, peeled
10 oz. pearl onions, peeled
2 small fennel bulbs, each cut into 8 wedges
10 oz. button mushrooms, quartered
5 celery stalks, cut into 1-in. pieces
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. all-purpose flour
2 cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
Cayenne pepper
Cooked white rice, for serving
⅓ cup crème fraîche
Parsley leaves, to garnish

Instructions

Make a bouquet garni: In a large square of cheesecloth, bundle the parsley, thyme, coriander, garlic, black peppercorns, cloves, and bay leaf; tie with kitchen twine to close, and set aside.
In a large pot set over high heat, bring the veal, bouquet garni, and 10 cups water to a boil; turn down the heat to medium-low, and cook, occasionally and skimming any impurities that rise to the surface, for 30 minutes. Add the carrots, onions, and fennel, and cook for 30 minutes. Add the mushrooms and celery, and cook until the veal is very tender and vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the veal and vegetables to a large bowl; cover and keep warm.
Set a fine sieve over a large bowl, and strain the veal. Measure 4 cups of the cooking liquid into a small pot, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 30 minutes. (Reserve the remaining veal broth for another use.)
Wipe the large pot clean and return it to the stove over medium heat; add the butter and once it has melted, whisk in the flour, and cook, stirring, to make a smooth, white roux, 3–5 minutes. Add the reduced stock and the cream, and bring to a boil; cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce is thickened and slightly reduced, about 15 minutes.
Return the veal and vegetables to the sauce, and cook until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice, salt, white pepper, and cayenne; divide the blanquette de veau among bowls of white rice. Drizzle each serving with crème fraîche and garnish with parsley leaves before serving.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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