Spring | Saveur

Danish Salted Cucumber Salad

Niclas Grønhøj Møller — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:51:47 +0000

Chris Tonnesen. Chris Tonnesen

As is true in much of northern Europe, pickles are very traditional in Danish cooking. “In many classic dishes, cucumbers are thinly sliced and pickled in a sweet-sour brine, then served as a side to fried meats like chicken,” says Copenhagen chef Niclas Grønhøj Møller. Instead of using a brine to season his cucumbers, he salts them heavily and squeezes them with lemon, giving them a pickly saltiness and slight acidity.

Featured in “What Would It Take for an American Guy to Become Danish?” by Andrew Richdale.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 30 minutes

2 English cucumbers (about 2 lb.), cut lengthwise, seeded, and sliced ¼ inch thick on the bias
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus more as needed
2 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh chervil or cilantro
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill
Edible flowers, such as chive, turnip, forget-me-not, or cabbage flowers, for garnish

Instructions

In a medium bowl, toss the cucumbers with the lemon juice and salt. Set aside for 15–30 minutes (the longer the cucumbers rest, the less water they will have and the saltier they will taste).
Drain and discard the excess liquid, taste the cucumbers, and adjust the seasoning with more salt and lemon juice as needed. Add the chervil and dill, and toss to coat. Transfer the mixture to a large platter. Garnish with edible flowers and serve.

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Rossini

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:23 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Pearl Jones. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Pearl Jones

A luscious take on the bellini, the Rossini swaps in strawberries for the latter drink’s white peaches, and prosecco for champagne. Serve this versatile cocktail in place of mimosas at brunch, as an aperitif, or with dessert.

Featured in the October 2012 issue.

Yield: Makes 4–6 cocktails

Time: 10 minutes

½ lb. fresh strawberries
One 750-ml bottle prosecco, chilled

Instructions

Set aside a few strawberries for garnish, then hull the rest. Transfer the hulled strawberries to a blender and process until smooth. (You should have about 1 cup of purée.)
To serve, add 2 tablespoons of the strawberry purée to a chilled champagne or coupe class. Top with the prosecco, stir to combine if desired, and garnish with a reserved strawberry. Repeat with the remaining purée, prosecco, and strawberries.

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Garlic Scape and Cherry Tomato Pasta

SAVEUR Editors — Sat, 10 Jul 2021 05:00:00 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

Early summer brings an underappreciated and short-lived bounty along with the tomato harvest. Garlic scapes—the tender, green stalks that rise from hard-neck garlic—are an aromatic, herbaceous, and mellow way to add garlicky flavor to your dishes. Roasting the scapes with tomatoes and red onion sweetens the alliums’ heat and enriches their flavor; toss with pasta, lemon juice, and arugula for a simple summer meal.

Yield: 4

Time: 30 minutes

Kosher salt
½ lb. spaghetti
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 pint multicolored cherry tomatoes
10 garlic scapes
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup baby arugula
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook according to the package instructions until al dente. Drain the pasta and transfer to a large bowl. Set aside and keep warm.
In a medium bowl, toss together the oil, tomatoes, garlic scapes, and onion. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, then spread the vegetables in an even layer on a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the tomatoes are just beginning to burst, 12–15 minutes.
Remove the vegetables from the oven and add to the bowl of spaghetti. Add the arugula and lemon juice and zest, toss to combine, and serve hot.

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Julia Child’s Beurre Blanc

SAVEUR Editors — Tue, 12 Feb 2008 10:00:00 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross. Matt Taylor-Gross

Butter is essentially a smooth mixture of fat and water. The secret to making beurre blanc, also known as beurre nantais, is to preserve its makeup by allowing each addition of butter to melt smoothly into the sauce as you whisk it, before adding the next piece of butter. Never let the sauce come to a boil once the butter is added, which will cause it to separate. Some restaurant cooks add a little heavy cream to the wine reduction before whisking in the butter, to ensure a smooth and stable sauce. This recipe is based on one in Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck. Serve with fish, poultry, or vegetables.

Yield: Makes about 1½ cups

Time: 15 minutes

¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. finely chopped shallots
¼ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
Pinch of white pepper
24 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes
½ tsp. fresh lemon juice

Instructions

To a small pot, add the wine and vinegar, and bring to a boil. Add the shallots, salt, and pepper, then turn the heat to medium-low and simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated, 3–4 minutes. (There should be about 1½ tablespoons of liquid left. If reduced too far, add 1 tablespoon of water to remoisten.)
Remove the pot from the heat, then whisk in 2 cubes of butter. Return the pot to the stove, turn the heat to low, and continue whisking in the butter one cube at a time, allowing each piece to melt into the sauce before adding more.
Remove the pot from the heat, then whisk in the lemon juice and season to taste with more salt. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl.

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Grilled Morel and Fontina Toasts

Fatima Khawaja — Wed, 01 Jun 2022 02:51:08 +0000

Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart

Finding morels at the farmers market is like winning the lottery. One morning you’ll spot them, and the next they’re gone. Some years they don’t make an appearance at all, while others they’re around for weeks. That’s because these fussy, rare mushrooms, which are prized for their smoky earthiness, can’t be cultivated: They’re picked in forests between April and July and sprout only under certain climatic conditions. The good news is, you can substitute any edible mushroom in recipes that call for morels.

When shopping for wild mushrooms, look for ones that are dry and unbruised. Darker morels have more flavor than lighter ones. Don’t be daunted by the price per pound; mushrooms are mostly air, so a few ounces will go far. To prevent molding, store them in a brown paper bag in the fridge (the crisper drawer with the humidity turned off is best), and plan to eat them within a couple of days, lest they get slimy or shriveled. If the stems are too chewy for your taste (shiitake stems are notoriously tough), freeze them along with any trimmings and add them to your next batch of beef or vegetable stock.

When I’m cooking for my family, I love to keep things simple. These days, that means plenty of crusty bread (grilled on my little superintendent-approved electric grill) topped with cheese and something quick-cooked. A few farmers market morels, placed briefly over the hot grates, make this simple dish into something extra-special. If you don’t have a grill, use the broiler or a grill pan to toast the bread; meanwhile, fry the mushrooms directly in the chive-shallot butter until just tender.

Yield: Makes 2 toasts

Time: 30 minutes

¼ cup olive oil, divided
2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar
4 Tbsp. salted butter, softened, divided
1 medium garlic clove, finely chopped (2 tsp.)
1 small shallot, finely chopped (3 Tbsp.)
3 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
Freshly ground black pepper
4 oz. whole fresh morels (1½ cups lightly packed)
2 thick country bread slices
2 oz. thinly sliced fontina cheese
Flaky sea salt

Instructions

Heat a charcoal grill or set a gas grill to medium-high. In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons of the oil and the sherry vinegar. Set aside.
In a small skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. When the foam subsides, add the garlic and shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3–4 minutes. Add the chives and cook for about 1 minute more. Season to taste with black pepper and remove from the heat.
Thread the morels onto skewers. When the grill is preheated, use tongs and a wad of oiled paper towels to grease the grates. Add the morels and grill, turning occasionally, until slightly charred and just cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, remove the skewers, then coarsely chop the mushrooms. Add them to the butter mixture and toss to coat.
Drizzle the remaining oil over both sides of the bread slices, then grill, turning once, until there are grill marks on both sides, about 4 minutes total. Turn off the heat. Top the slices evenly with the fontina, cover, and grill until the cheese is melted, 30–60 seconds more. Transfer the toasts to a plate, top with the buttered morels, and drizzle with the vinaigrette. Season to taste with flaky salt and serve hot.

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Grilled Lamb Chops with Tzatziki

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:27 +0000

Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Maggie Ruggiero • Prop Styling: Paige Hicks. Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Maggie Ruggiero • Prop Styling: Paige Hicks

In this classic Greek pairing, dill is used two ways: first in a garlicky marinade for the lamb, and then in a cooling, brightly flavored yogurt sauce. While we’re partial to fresh dill here, you can also use its dried counterpart. Either way, serve these juicy grilled lamb chops with a simple green salad.

Yield: 2

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

Ingredients

For the tzatziki:

¾ cup plain, whole-milk Greek yogurt
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill, or 1 tsp. dried dill
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped (½ cup)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lamb:

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling the grill
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill, or 1 tsp. dried dill
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
½ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Four 1-in.-thick lamb loin chops (about 1 lb.)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

Make the tzatziki: In a medium bowl, stir together the yogurt, lemon juice, dill, garlic, and cucumber. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1–48 hours.
Meanwhile, marinate the lamb: In a large baking dish, add the oil, dill, lemon juice, chile flakes, and garlic. Season the lamb chops to taste with salt and black pepper, then add to the marinade and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to marinate at room temperature for 1 hour.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. (Alternatively, heat an oiled grill pan over medium-high.) Grill the lamb, turning occasionally, until done to taste, 4–6 minutes for medium-rare. (If using a grill pan, cook, turning occasionally, for 6–7 minutes for medium-rare.) Transfer to a platter and allow to rest for 5 minutes. Serve with the tzatziki.

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Rhubarb Mousse

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:53:35 +0000

Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Maggie Ruggiero • Prop Styling: Paige Hicks. Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Maggie Ruggiero • Prop Styling: Paige Hicks

There’s so much more to rhubarb than pie—this tasty harbinger of spring is just as alluring in a simple mousse. Enjoy the sweet-tart creamy dessert chilled or frozen in ramekins.

Featured in “Good Stalk: Rhubarb” by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl.

Yield: Makes 4½ cups

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

1 lb. rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1-in. pieces
⅓ cup unsweetened apple juice
½ cup packed light brown sugar, divided
½ tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
2 large egg yolks
2 large egg whites
½ cup heavy cream
1 tsp. vanilla extract

Instructions

In a small pot over high heat, bring the rhubarb and apple juice to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until the rhubarb is tender, about 4 minutes.
Transfer to a blender, add 1 tablespoon of the sugar, the salt, and cinnamon, and blend until smooth.
Return the rhubarb mixture back to the pot, whisk in the egg yolks and remaining sugar, and turn the heat to medium. Cook, whisking continuously, until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside to cool.
In a another large bowl, use a hand mixer to beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Rinse and dry the beaters. Using a silicone spatula, gently fold the whites into the rhubarb mixture.
In a medium bowl, use the hand mixer to beat the cream and vanilla until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the whipped cream into the rhubarb mixture. Divide among serving cups, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. Serve chilled.

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Ramp Jam

Hugh Acheson — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:28:35 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross. Matt Taylor-Gross

Ramps’ short window of availability makes their earthy, garlicky twang all the more appealing. When they’re in season, we’re putting them in everything: scrambled eggs, salads, tarts. In this recipe adapted from his cookbook The Broad Fork, chef Hugh Acheson turns ramps into a simple jam thickened with powdered pectin. The sweet-savory compote will serve you well all summer long on grilled sausages and hamburgers, or spoon some on top of shaved pork loin or steak and eggs. Or, can it using a hot water bath and add springtime flair to your morning toast come winter.

Whole ramps are sliced thin from bulb to leaf tip and sautéed in olive oil before being cooked down with vinegar for bite and sugar for sweetness. Acheson adds bay leaves along the way for a subtle extra flavor note. Once the mixture reduces a little, pectin is added to help it thicken up. The goal, Acheson says, is to avoid overcooking ramps and dulling their delicate flavor; the pectin allows the mixture to gel without having to cook it down too much. The finished jam will keep in the fridge for up to a month, or you can process the jars according to the National Center for Home Food Preservation’s canning guidelines and keep them for up to 9 months in a cool, dark place.

Yield: Makes 1 pint

Time: 30 minutes

1 tsp. olive oil
1 lb. ramps, white ends thinly sliced and leaves cut into 1-in. pieces
1 Tbsp. sea salt
1 cup white balsamic vinegar
½ cup sugar
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. powdered pectin

Instructions

To a medium pot over medium heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the ramps and salt, and cook until soft but not colored, about 10 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the vinegar, sugar, and bay leaves, and cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to medium, add the pectin, and continue cooking, whisking continuously, until thickened, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a sterilized pint jar with a lid.

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Artichoke Bruschetta with Capers and Cherry Tomatoes

Katie Reicher — Wed, 17 Apr 2024 18:05:07 +0000

Brian Klutch. Brian Klutch

Katie Reicher, executive chef of Greens restaurant in San Francisco, brings us this Italian American-inspired artichoke bruschetta recipe. If you can find fresh baby artichokes, they are excellent here: Trim them down to their tender hearts, then steam in a steamer basket over medium heat until tender, about 20 minutes. Frozen artichoke hearts, tossed with oil and salt and roasted at 400°F for about 35 minutes, also work wonderfully.

Featured in “Why You Should Heart Artichokes (If You Don’t Already)” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 2–4

Time: 12 minutes

1 cup coarsely chopped drained oil-packed artichoke hearts (see headnote)
1 cup quartered cherry tomatoes
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
2 Tbsp. finely chopped basil leaves
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped green olives
2 Tbsp. finely chopped red onion
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley leaves
1 Tbsp. chopped brined capers
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. finely chopped garlic, or to taste
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sliced ciabatta or sourdough, grilled or toasted

Instructions

In a bowl, toss together the artichoke hearts, cherry tomatoes, oil, balsamic vinegar, basil, olives, onion, parsley, capers, red wine vinegar, garlic, and salt and black pepper to taste. Set aside to marinate for 10 minutes, then mound atop the ciabatta and serve.

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Jacques Pépin’s Artichokes Helen

Jacques Pépin — Wed, 17 Apr 2024 18:05:00 +0000

Brian Klutch. Brian Klutch

Jacques Pépin, the legendary TV host and cookbook author, has been making these classic French artichokes “Helen”—mounded with creamy cognac-spiked mushrooms, then broiled—since the 1960s. When shopping, seek out either large tapered artichokes or small globes.

Featured in “Why You Should Heart Artichokes (If You Don’t Already)” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 6 as an appetizer

Time: 1 hour

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 tsp. fine salt, divided
6 medium artichoke bottoms (about 12 oz.), trimmed
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 cups button mushrooms (6 oz.), cut into ½-in. pieces
1 Tbsp. cognac
⅔ cup cold heavy cream, divided
1½ tsp. finely chopped parsley leaves
1½ tsp. finely chopped tarragon leaves
Pinch freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp. potato starch, dissolved in 1 Tbsp. of cold water
1½ tsp. finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Instructions

To a medium pot, add the lemon juice, olive oil, ¾ teaspoon of the salt, the artichokes, and 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer until the artichokes are tender when pierced with a knife, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat (leaving the artichokes in the liquid).
In a separate medium pot over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and their liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Add the cognac and cook until evaporated, about 30 seconds. Add ¼ cup of the cream, the parsley, tarragon, black pepper, and remaining salt and bring to a boil. Stir in the dissolved potato starch and continue boiling until thickened, about 1 minute more. Remove from the heat.
Position a rack in the top third of the oven and preheat the broiler to high. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the artichokes, cavities facing up, to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Using a stand or handheld mixer, beat the remaining cream to stiff peaks and scrape into the mushroom mixture; working quickly, use a silicone spatula to gently incorporate. Spoon the mixture evenly into the artichoke cavities, sprinkle evenly with Pecorino, and broil until browned, 1–3 minutes. Serve warm.

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Turkish Braised Artichokes with Peas and Candied Lemon

Gamze Ineceli — Wed, 17 Apr 2024 18:04:43 +0000

Brian Klutch. Brian Klutch

“Artichokes have a special place at the table of Istanbulites,” says Gamze Ineceli, an Istanbul-based researcher and expert in Anatolian food studies. Her classic Turkish braised artichokes recipe with peas and candied lemon is a family favorite that was perfected over generations. If you don’t want the artichokes to turn brown, rub them all over with a halved lemon as you trim.

Featured in “Why You Should Heart Artichokes (If You Don’t Already)” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 4 as an appetizer

Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

For the candied lemon:

2 medium lemons, divided
1 Tbsp. sugar

For the topping:

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
5 scallions, green tops discarded, thinly sliced
1 lb. green peas (3¼ cups), fresh or frozen
1 tsp. kosher salt
¾ tsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped dill fronds

For the artichokes:

1 Tbsp. sugar
1½ tsp. kosher salt
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 trimmed globe artichoke bottoms (1 lb. 13 oz.)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Coarsely chopped dill fronds, for garnish
Lemon wedges, for serving

Instructions

Make the candied lemon: Using a sharp knife or mandoline, cut one of the lemons crosswise into ⅛-inch slices and transfer to a small skillet. Add the sugar and the juice of the remaining lemon and turn the heat to medium-low. Cook until the liquid has evaporated and the lemon slices are coated in thick syrup, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Make the topping: To a medium skillet over medium heat, add the oil and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the scallions and cook until slightly softened, about 1 minute more. Add the peas, salt, sugar, and enough water to barely cover (about 1½ cups). Bring to a boil, then cover and turn the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the peas are soft, about 5 minutes. Drain, then stir in the dill, turn off the heat, cover, and set aside.
Make the artichokes: To a medium skillet, add the sugar, salt, and onion and use your hands to toss until the onion softens slightly, about 30 seconds. Place the artichoke hearts, cavities facing down, on top of the onion mixture, then drizzle with the olive oil, rubbing to coat. Add enough water to barely cover the hearts (about ⅔ cup). Bring to a boil, then cover and turn the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the artichokes are soft when pierced with a knife, about 12 minutes.
Using a metal spatula, transfer the artichoke hearts (cavities facing up) to a platter, reserving the liquid. Mound evenly with the pea mixture, then scatter with the candied lemon and spoon with the reserved cooking liquid. Garnish with dill and serve with lemon wedges on the side.

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