A luscious take on the bellini, the Rossini swaps in strawberries for the latter drink’s white peaches, and prosecco for champagne. Serve this versatile cocktail in place of mimosas at brunch, as an aperitif, or with dessert.

Featured in the October 2012 issue.

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Punch Romaine, a rum-spiked shaved-ice palate cleanser served to first-class passengers during the fateful last dinner aboard the Titanic on April 14, 1912, was based on a recipe from famed French chef Georges Auguste Escoffier, who championed alcoholic shaved ices during the early 20th century. The original recipe, essentially a granita, is updated here as a drinkable, citrusy cocktail poured over an iceberg of crushed ice.

Follow our easy instructions to make your own simple syrup. Use a channel knife to create thin strips of orange peel for the garnish.

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Canon Félix Kir, a French Résistance hero and later mayor of Dijon, lent his name to this simple wine cocktail traditionally made with the rustic Burgundian variety called aligoté. When Champagne is used instead of white wine, the drink becomes a kir royale. Don’t be tempted to stint on the amount of crème de cassis—Burgundy’s famed blackcurrant liqueur—to yield a faint pink drink; both common and royal iterations should properly have a dark rosy hue.

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Cyrus Schultz thinks Champagne is always a good idea. Born and raised in Maui, Schultz cut his teeth serving wine in celebrated fine dining establishments throughout Hawaii and California, including Roy’s in Maui, Benu in San Francisco, and the French Laundry in Napa Valley. When the now-sommelier signed on to run the wine program at Sonoma County’s Cyrus (the shared name is a coincidence), he took great care to ensure that the restaurant’s aperitif service set the tone for the whole meal. That’s why, heading into year-end festivities, I reached out to him for advice on how to serve Champagne at home like a pro—from optimal glassware to perfect food pairings.

If ever there was a time for the Cyrus team to break out the Champagne, it’s now. The Northern California wine region’s most anticipated new restaurant of the year, Cyrus is actually about to embark on a new chapter. After a lease dispute in their intimate and widely loved original location, co-owners, chef Doug Keane and mâitre’d Nick Peyton abruptly closed up shop a decade ago. This September, after years of false starts and pandemic woes, the pair finally opened the doors on this second act. Barely three months later, reservations for the 17-course tasting menu are booked solid, and the team recently took home Cyrus 2.0’s first Michelin Star.

The morning before the Michelin news came through, I happened to be on the premises, scoping out the space and sipping a graciously poured glass of bubbles before dinner service. The room was designed as a reimagining of the famed pre-dinner Champagne and caviar cart guests had come to love at the original location. Diners begin their meal with bubbly and small bites overlooking acres of surrounding vineyards and, beyond that, the rolling hills of the Alexander Valley. Even in the daytime, an understated luxe permeates the room. “It’s hard to not fall for the space,” Schultz tells me. “We offer three seatings each night, and for each of those, we’ve built in a half an hour where you can just sit, get a glass of Champagne, and watch the seasons change over the vineyards.” 

Whether you’re hosting everyone you know this season, or are looking to make the most of a special bottle with your favorite dinner companion, your evening deserves just as much. Here are Schultz’s tips for bringing a little bit of Cyrus’ Champagne chic into your own home.

The Glassware:

At Cyrus, stemware is the first thing diners bring to their lips, so Schultz was acutely aware just how important it would be to choose the proper champagne glass. In the Lounge, he uses Zalto tulips to serve all effervescent pours. “You want something that doesn’t cage all the flavors,” he explains. “A more generous glass shape allows the wine to be more expressive and speak louder” than it might in a standard, straight-sided flute.

For elevating the Champagne experience at home, glassware is the clear place to start. If your space or budget demands that you streamline your options, though, Schultz finds that sparkling wines can shine just as brightly in an elegant, all-purpose white wine glass that “lets the bubbles breathe a little.” (He uses the Sophienwald brand at home.)

Feeling festive, or setting up a Champagne fountain? “I also do love a coupe,” he admits. “For the right time and occasion, with a wine that’s fresh and vibrant and super-cold, a coupe can make you feel like you’re in that Great Gatsby era.” In other words, the glass sets the mood. “Coupes may not be the most functional, but sometimes they make you feel great, and how you feel when you’re drinking something is so important, too.” 

Keep it Cold:

When it comes to Champagne, you’re going for cold—significantly colder than other white wines, but not freezing. “You don’t want your champagne so cold that its flavors start to close down,” Schultz warns; he suggests aiming for somewhere around 46 degrees Fahrenheit (or a touch colder for non-Champagne sparklers, like cremant or Prosecco). 

The reason for this chilly temp boils down to physics. With still wines, proper temperature is all about flavor and fragrance, but with bubbles, temperature also has an impact on texture. Rising temperatures cause carbonation to expand, resulting in a more open mousse (i.e. fatter bubbles). “Effervescence is a texture rather than a flavor,” Schultz explains, “and there’s a point where the mousse behaves on the palate in a way where the wine just sings. I usually like Champagne to be very finely, tightly wound, and have that really delicate bead, but depending on the wine, sometimes it can warm up a touch, and become much more expressive.”

How can you tell when a bottle is cold enough? After years in the business, Schultz relies on instinct and physical touch, but admits that, for most, this method is not precise. For a 750-milliliter bottle, three hours in the fridge is a safe minimum starting point. An ice bucket can be faster and convenient, but Schultz reminds us that when using one, the bottle should be fully submerged in order to chill evenly. (Also remember that magnums and larger bottles take substantially longer to chill than those standard 750s.)

Food Pairings:

For nibbles to pair with their Champagne, chef Keane sends guests dainty canapés—often featuring uber-luxe ingredients like wagyu and truffles—to tease the lengthy dinner to come. They may also choose to enjoy a serving of caviar. While the ingredients are lavish, the bites are intentionally petite. 

For a more casual—yet still elevated—home experience, Schultz likes to offer more generous portions of simple, fatty foods: think fried chicken or potato chips, or the occasional silky slice of foie gras. With fuller, fruitier rosé Champagnes, though, he prefers to veer in another direction, looking to his home state for inspiration: raw tuna, seasoned with scallion, soy sauce, sesame, and inamona salt. “Rosé has enough power to stand up to the rich, oily nature of ahi,” he tells me.  “Don’t sleep on rosé Champagne and ahi poke!”

The Main Event:

Schultz built Cyrus’s 800+ bottle wine menu from scratch; today, the restaurant’s cellar boasts just over a hundred Champagnes (and a handful of stand-out Sonoma sparklers). Rare vintages from well-known marquee houses are listed alongside niche grower-producers, and while many of the selects are near impossible to find outside of private collections and wine-focused restaurants, some of the somm’s favorites are available in stores. In the $40 to $60 price range, he suggests seeking out Chartogne-Taillet, Pierre Peters, or the consistently delicious Pol Roger. 

For folks looking to splurge, Schultz points to Krug or cult favorite Salon—an early pioneer of the Blanc de Blancs style which only produces wines in the most exceptional of vintages. “[Salon] only makes one wine, so you know it’s going to be delicious. You don’t have to do all this homework about, ‘was that a good vintage or a bad one?’ They’ve done it all for you—but it is a splurge!”

A Note on Gifting Champagne Like a Pro:

Schultz has thoughts on gifting Champagne, too. “The biggest thing I try to let people know is that if I’m giving them a bottle of Champagne, I’m saying, ‘Hey, this is something for you to drink and enjoy now.’” Recipients of wine gifts may instinctively save the bottle for another special occasion, but Schultz reminds us that the holidays are about enjoyment and fun. “Nothing does that like opening a bottle of Champagne.”

How To Open Champagne Like A Swashbuckling Sommelier

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If you’re a champagne drinker, you’ve likely encountered the not-so-sweet end of the sparkling wine spectrum. Over the course of the last century, palate preferences have leaned towards drier bubblies (mainly bruts), and in recent years, even more austere styles like brut nature have been all the rage. But it hasn’t always been this way—in fact, sweet champagnes were the height of fashion throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, somewhat by default as dry styles weren’t even introduced until the mid-1800s. As the holidays approach, and given that we’re all in need of a little extra sweetness in our lives these days, I believe that these more honeyed, classic versions are due for a revival.

Still today, most champagnes—even the dry ones—do contain some degree of added sugar. Known as “dosage,” this is introduced to the wine after disgorgement in order to counterbalance the wine’s signature high acidity levels. Depending on the amount of sugar added, this practice can also be leveraged as a means of imparting some level of actual sweetness to the finished product. A winemaker once put it to me this way: dosage is to champagne what butter is to bread. The bread (or, in this case, the bubbly), whether so-so or exceptional on its own, could be potentially made better with a touch of something rich.

How much dosage is the right amount? What matters most is the winemaker’s handiwork, and just as importantly, your personal preference. But whatever your tendencies, if you enjoy pairing wines with food, it’s worth staying open to champagne’s sugar-kissed styles—particularly demi-sec.

One of the more widespread styles of sweet champagne, demi-sec, by definition, contains a whopping 33 to 50 grams (around 3 tablespoons) of added sugar per liter; in comparison, bruts can contain no more than 12. But that doesn’t mean demi-secs are heavy or cloying, as their bright acidity brings balance and lift, making the style surprisingly versatile. As an apéritif, demi-sec shines brightly alongside funky blue cheeses, grilled octopus, and anything buttery and salty (such as popcorn). Most often, though, it’s a go-to pairing for desserts. Chicago-based wine and spirits educator Regine Rousseau recalls the golden rule taught to her by a mentor: However sweet the dessert, your wine must be sweeter. “Although demi-sec champagnes work well with delicious salty treats [like] mixed nuts, cod fish dips, and Chicago Mix popcorn, I reserve them for a little something sweet,” she explains. And Rousseau isn’t alone—sweet wines in general are known to render foods drier on the palate, which is why desserts benefit from balance in the form of a wine sweeter than the dish itself. If anything, venturing into the world of sweet sparklers is an opportunity to taste an excessive number of dishes with a variety of demi-sec champagnes, all in the name of “research”. Here are a few expert-recommended bottles to get you started.

1. Beau Joie Sugar King Demi-Sec

If you’re a fan of a bottle as lovely as its contents, Beau Joie is always a safe bet—the handmade latticed metal detail is a hallmark of winemaker Bertrand Senecourt’s Special Cuvée collection, which is made up of a brut non-vintage, a brut rosé, and Sugar King Demi-Sec. In its limited edition black bottle, this golden-pink wine is a classic champagne blend of pinot noir, pinot meunier, and chardonnay. Lush and decadent with plenty of balancing acidity, it features prominent peach and dried apricot on both the nose and palate, along with generous pastry notes on the finish. Mercedes Cowper, an accredited sommelier and virtual wine tasting host in the Washington, D.C. area, shares some insight on pairing champagnes like this with savory dishes: “Personally, I love pairing a higher acid, off-dry to sweet wine with curries and spicy foods, especially if the ingredients have dried or preserved fruits in them.” According to Cowper, these ingredients are complemented by the sweet, dried fruit characteristics often found in this style of champagne. Note that pairing a demi-sec with a main course can easily carry you and your dining companion(s) into the dessert course.

2. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Demi-Sec

Billecart-Salmon

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For fans of Billecart-Salmon’s classic brut bottling, the natural segue into sweet champagne will be the house’s distinctive demi-sec. A high-dosage version of the brut blend, this demi-sec shares many of its drier cousin’s same notes, like ripe pears and buttery pastry. Jamie Ritchie, Worldwide Head of Sotheby’s Wine, shares what makes this demi-sec one of his personal favorite non-vintage champagnes: “It is full-flavored (think brioche, with the perfect balance of bubbles, acidity, and sweetness) so it is bright and refreshing, yet satisfying—and perfect with all types of pastries and desserts, from biscuits to chocolate cake.”

3. Laurent Perrier Harmony Demi-Sec Champagne

Courtesy Laurent-Perrier

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Delicate is one of many words one might use to describe Laurent-Perrier’s Harmony Demi-Sec Champagne, a bottle beloved by wine experts for its chardonnay-forward blend full of toasted nuts and dried fruit on both the nose and palate. If you have the willpower to cellar this bottle for a few years, it will reveal layers of honey and juniper, but nobody would blame you if you failed to let it get to that point. Whether you drink it young or not, Harmony is an insane value for the cost, perfectly creamy in texture yet light as a feather on the finish. It’s a true treat, whether on its own, sipped with an unctuous, salty triple-crème cheese, or paired with a rich (but not overly sweet) dessert. “Try Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec with a sweet potato pie or a Chicago-style cheesecake,” says Rousseau, who assures SAVEUR that Chicago does, in fact, make the best cheesecake (and is not sorry, for the record). The jury’s still out on that regional dessert debate, but if there’s one thing we do know, it’s that this pairing will leave you wanting a second serving (if not more).

The post In Defense of Demi-Sec: The Best Sweet Champagnes to Drink This Holiday Season appeared first on Saveur.

While 2020′s New Year’s gatherings will no doubt be smaller and more distanced than years past, they needn’t be any less festive—at least as far as the drinks are concerned. With budgets tighter than usual, it might be worth swapping out your usual champagne for one of the equally exceptional, often more affordable sparkling wines from Italy, Spain, the United States, the United Kingdom, Brazil, South Africa, and even elsewhere in France. Whether you prefer to stay true to those produced in the classic “champenoise” method or to seek out something unexpected, with this list in hand, you’ll certainly walk away with a new favorite bubbly.

But first: let’s unpack what separates champagne from the rest of the world’s sparkling wine. The first and most obvious distinguishing factor is provenance: true champagne comes from the titular region located about an hour northeast of Paris. Secondly, it must be made using some ratio of the area’s pinot noir, pinot meunier, and chardonnay grapes. The third factor is method: Legend has it that sometime around the turn of the 17th century, still wines left in a cellar began undergoing a secondary fermentation, which caused their corks to pop, thus creating the first sparkling wine. Indeed, that second fermentation—which still takes place in the bottle—is a hallmark of the méthode traditionnelle (previously known as the “méthode champenoise”), that is still used in the Champagne region today.

Secondary fermentation is achieved by adding sugar and yeast to a still wine before bottling, which results in the desired carbonation. Aging the wine for a minimum of 15 months on the lees, or spent yeast, helps give champagne its quintessentially bready flavors. After disgorgement (the removal of that yeasty sediment), more wine and sugar (referred to as the “dosage”) are usually added to ensure sweetness. The official certification of Champagne—the region’s Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC)—is awarded only to wines that follow these specific rules, which are set forth by the governing organization, Comité Champagne.

Throughout the rest of the world, wineries are not bound by the strict parameters of champagne production. In the centuries since champagne’s birth, resourceful producers have been finding new and interesting ways to create effervescence. “Sparkling wine outside of Champagne is as diverse—and delicious—as any wine category in the world,” says Chris Leon of New York City’s Leon & Son Wine and Spirits.

Elsewhere in France, in seven regions, including Bordeaux and the Loire and Rhone Valleys, there’s crémant, the closest cousin to champagne. Aged for at least nine months on the lees and produced similarly to champagne, “crémant is a great alternative to champagne,” explains veteran bartender-educator Ms. Franky Marshall. “Whether from Alsace or Burgundy, it’s definitely worth considering when you need something easy-drinking.”

Italy’s popular effervescent styles, prosecco and asti spumante, and Spain’s cava are nearly as well-known as their French counterparts, while natural winemakers and New World producers are even more inclined to experiment with avant-garde styles and techniques. This means everything from sparkling riesling from New York’s Finger Lakes region to trendy pét-nats from the American West Coast.

Ready to get started? Whether you’re shopping for a New Year’s toast, looking for a wine to top off spritz cocktails, or simply expanding your knowledge of the category, you’ll find what you need in our guide to 2020′s standout sparkling wines.

France

Gustave Lorentz

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Gustave Lorentz Crémant D’Alsace

Since the 1800s, the Lorentz family has been making wine in France’s Alsace region, which borders Germany. A great example of a classic, sparkling French wine from outside Champagne, this non-vintage blend is made from chardonnay, pinot blanc, and pinot noir sourced from the family’s vineyards, which are planted along the foothills of the Vosges Mountains. Layering hints of berry and red fruit over bursts of lemon peel, this crémant is refreshing on any day—but especially as a lively sparkling toast.

Gerárd Bertrand 2017 Cuvée Thomas Jefferson Brut Rosé (Crémant de Limoux)

If there’s one producer who knows their way around a creamy, bubbly rosé, it’s biodynamic viticulture pioneer Gerárd Bertrand. Hailed the “Prince of the Languedoc,” in reference to his work in the famed sparkling wine-producing region in the south of France, Bertrand offers a standout crémant from Limoux—the coolest appellation of the region, thanks to its advantageous position between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean. The pale, salmon-tinted wine is made from chardonnay, chenin blanc, and pinot noir grapes, which manifest in notes of strawberry and lemon peel, fresh acidity, and high carbonation.

Italy

Cinzano

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Cinzano Asti Spumante

Though Cinzano is universally known for its vermouth, the company also offers some solid sparkling wines. First launched in 2017, in part to celebrate the brand’s 260th anniversary, this non-vintage sparkling wine is made from moscato grapes from the eponymous Asti province in Italy’s Piedmont region. An affordable crowd-pleaser that offers the characteristic asti aromas of white flowers, honey, and toasty bread, the spumante pours out with a generous, moussey froth and a pronounced, pleasantly jammy sweetness. Enjoy this one with fruity citrus or apple desserts or alongside a salty salumi platter.

Contratto Metodo Classico Pas Dosé Millesimato

While sparkling wines from the Alta Langa area of Piedmont aren’t well-known Stateside, the category is growing in recognition thanks to its oldest producer, Contratto. Having only recently become available in the United States, this wine is made using an 80/20 blend of Piedmontese pinot noir and chardonnay grapes, which are manually picked and sorted by vineyard. This wine is produced in the méthode traditionnelle using indigenous yeasts, and bottle aging takes place over 60 months. The wine is “pas dosé,” meaning it receives no added sugar after disgorgement. Elegant and dry, yet also soft and savory, notes of stone fruit and red berries fade into a mineral finish.

Sotheby’s Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore 2018

The world-renowned auction house and retailer released its debut 12-bottle wine collection in the fall of 2019 with an emphasis on affordability—all of the bottles are priced between 17 and 40 dollars. Each wine is labeled with its own lot number and a brief story about the producer, nodding to Sotheby’s auctioneering roots. Of the offerings, this prosecco from the Mongarda family stands out. Prosecco is produced using the Charmat method, in which the secondary fermentation process takes place in a steel tank. Taking a non-interventionist approach, the brand blends 90 percent glera with 10 percent verdiso and bianchetta grapes from the Veneto region for a crisp wine that is notably dry, with notes of green apple and honeysuckle. With a pleasant freshness and mineral finish, it’s great on its own or for topping off a sparkling cocktail.

Fratelli Berlucchi Blanc de Blancs Brut 25

A strong exemplar of the franciacorta style of Italy’s Lombardy region, this bright, straw-colored blanc de blancs (wine made entirely from white grapes) leads with hints of lemon, pear, and green apple, before expanding to a toasted, bready quality from 25 months on the lees. High acidity makes this spumante a reliable standby for pairing with cheese and other salty foods, while generous bubbles scream festivity—all for just 20 bucks.

Spain

Segura Viudas

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Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad

This complex wine is a gold standard for entry-level cava—the méthode traditionnelle Spanish sparkling wine category that’s become more widely appreciated in recent years. Produced by Segura Viudas, a more than 800-year-old estate in the Penedès region outside of Barcelona, the Reserva Heredad is a 67/33 blend of indigenous macabeo and parellada grapes. Aged for over 30 months, the wine is sold in a stunning bottle inspired by the gothic arches of the winery’s medieval farmhouse. Aromas of citrus, apple, and tropical fruit unfurl on a gently bubbly palate that doubles down on flavors of bread and apple—finished with an enjoyable sweetness.

Avaline White NV

As a post-Hollywood second act, retired actress Cameron Diaz co-founded Avaline, a line of non-vintage organic and vegan wines. For the inaugural release, Diaz partnered with family-owned Spanish winery Raventos i Blanc, established in 1947 and known for its traditionally produced effervescent wines. Avaline’s white sparkling wine employs a classic combination of typical Spanish cava grapes like xarel-lo, macabeo, and parellada. Aged on the less for 18 months—twice the required duration for wines from the Panedès region—the wine offers distinctly floral and citrus notes and a pleasant, subtle sweetness.

Anima Mundi Cami dels Xops 2019

Some avant-garde producers have leaned heavily into the méthode ancestrale, which may have originated in the Limoux region of Southwestern France in the 16th century, thus predating Champagne’s méthode traditionnelle. In this process, a single fermentation is seen to completion in the bottle. Wines produced in this manner are called pétillant-naturel, or affectionately “pét-nat” for short. Fans of the style would be wise to consider this approachable biodynamic blend of macabeo and xarel-lo grapes. The result is a dry wine with notes of pear and lemon at the forefront and medium-fine bubbles. Anima Mundi is a notable side project from fourth-generation Catalan cava maker Agustí Torello Roca.

England

Chapel Down

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Chapel Down Brut NV

In recent decades, England has emerged as a notable producer of sparkling wine—the country’s vineyards have increased by some 160 percent over the last decade. From the charming town of Tenterden in the Kent countryside comes this standout, golden-hued bubbly. Made using pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier, and pinot blanc grapes, which are grown in the chalk, clay, and loam soils of Kent, East Sussex, and Dorset, Chapel Down’s non-vintage brut bottling is emblematic of the super-fresh English style, offering pleasant aromas of red apple, citrus, and bread that give way to a mineral-forward palate of stone fruit and quince.

Armenia

Keush Origins Brut Sparkling NV

With approximately 6,000 years of viticultural history, Armenia is considered by some to be the cradle of wine. Still, the country struggles to get the recognition it deserves. On the sparkling wine front, look no further than Keush, the brainchild of Lebanon-born winemaker Vahe Keushguerian, who spent time in Italy and California before taking a fateful trip to Armenia in 1997. A key callout for this traditional brut is the indigenous Armenian fruit used in its production: voskehat and khatoun kharji grapes sourced from 100-year-old vines grown some 1,800 meters above sea level. Ideal for cool-climate sipping, the budget-friendly wine offers fantastic salinity and citrus notes that play excellently with cheeses, cured meats, and shellfish.

South Africa

Graham Beck Brut NV

As far as South African sparkling wine is concerned, it’s hard to find a more iconic bottle than Graham Beck’s brut, which was served at Nelson Mandela’s inauguration. The Western Cape winery is overseen by pioneer and cellarmaster Pieter Ferreira, who also helms the Méthode Cap Classique organization—the governing body for South Africa’s traditional sparkling wine production. The non-vintage sparkler is made using a 60/40 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, fermented separately then blended together and aged for 15 to 18 months. Listed at just 20 dollars, this is a bang-for-your-buck wine with whiffs of lime, lemon, and green apple that give way to a medium body and mineral-rich palate of bready and nutty flavors.

Steenberg Vineyards Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc

Set just 20 minutes from central Cape Town in the fabled wine-growing region of Constantia, Steenberg Vineyard has the distinction of being the oldest registered farm in the country, dating back to 1682. The producer makes exceptional still sauvignon blancs, so naturally its sparkling version stands out as well. The straw-colored wine is crisp, fresh with superfine bubbles and notes of citrus, peach, and tropical fruit.

Brazil

D.M.

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D.M. Brut

Brazil has entered the sparkling wine conversation in recent years—and for good reason. This inaugural release, a 2018 vintage from newcomer producer D.M. Brut. Cheekily named for “Dom Maria,” a figurehead imagined by the brand’s founders to convey openness and inclusivity (”Dom” is a title typically bestowed upon men and Maria is one of the most common female names in Portuguese), this brut is made using a combination of pinot noir and chardonnay grapes grown in Southern Brazil’s Valley of the Vineyards or Vale dos Vinhedos. Known for being one of Brazil’s oldest wine-growing regions, the valley’s first vineyards were planted by Italian immigrants in the 19th century. The legacy of these immigrants lives on in the area’s wine production, as well as in the Venetian dialect still spoken there today. Pop open this sleek, minimalist bottle to discover an easy-sipping sparkler—produced in the méthode traditionnelle—with a fresh nose of citrus and pleasant dryness that makes it ideal for a mid-day aperitif, or a perfect accompaniment to oysters.

The United States

Schramsberg

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Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs Brut 2016

If you’re looking for an American wine that’ll more than hold its own next to true French champagne, this is the blueprint. The 100 percent chardonnay stunner is produced on California’s North Coast using the méthode traditionnelle, and aged in French oak. This vintage bottling hits every requisite note on the palate—from brioche and toasted almond to apple, pear, honey, and just a whisper of citrus. Medium-bodied with high acidity and a froth of tiny bubbles, this is a wine to drink at noon—or at midnight.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling Nature 2018

In just a few decades, riesling has become the unofficial grape of New York’s Finger Lakes region. Since 1957, local winemaker Dr. Konstantin Frank (and the subsequent four generations of the Frank family) have been working wonders with the fruit at their winery on Keuka Lake. Produced in the méthode traditionnelle, this 100 percent Riesling is a crisp, dry sparkling wine that works best as a pairing for rich seafoods—think lobster and salmon—and fried food.

The post Beyond Champagne: The Best Sparkling Wines Under $50 appeared first on Saveur.

If you are anything like me, you’re very much looking forward to the end of 2020. Odds are you won’t be ringing in the New Year at a snazzy restaurant, or hosting fifty of your closest friends, though. Me? I’ll be at home in my jammies—but that doesn’t mean I won’t be marking the occasion with the extravagance it deserves. One word: millésimé. This is “vintage” champagne, as opposed to “NV”, or non-vintage—i.e., the really good stuff, created with grapes from a single year that yielded an especially good harvest.

Millésimés are considered to be the finest examples of Champagne from the already revered French wine region. They’re released when the house’s chef de cave deems them ready to drink, but they also do well when cellared for a future occasion. That said, why would you wait? At midnight this New Year’s Eve, I’ll be popping one of these three bottles:

Laurent-Perrier Millésimé 2008 ($80)

John Whittle

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From the largest family- and female-owned Champagne house (sisters Stéphanie Meneux de Nonancourt and Alexandra Pereyre de Nonancourt now run the show) comes this recently released vintage. With mineral freshness on the nose (think rain on clean cement) and bright citrus flavors, this pretty wine lingers on the palate with a rich and creamy sensation. A price that’s competitive even with many non-vintage offerings puts this one at the top of our thrifty (for this category, anyway) list.

Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2012 Yayoi Kusama Limited Edition ($195)

John Whittle

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Fewer than 1% of the bottles from this brand (now owned by LVMH, a luxury goods conglomerate created when Louis Vuitton merged with Moët Hennessy) are deemed fit for the label “La Grande Dame”. That’s because Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin—Madame Clicquot—was something of a badass. Widowed at 27, she took over her husband’s business and eventually turned it into an empire. Like the Grande Dame herself, this millésimé delivers. It’s loaded with dainty floral and apple notes up front, and buttery pastry and apricot tea on the finish. There’s plenty to admire on the outside of the bottle, too: The limited-edition design by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama makes this one doubly giftable.

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2012 ($279)

Courtesy Louis Roederer

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House Roederer first created Cristal to serve to Russian Tsar Alexander II in 1876—and it’s been going strong ever since, including a glamorous rise (and not so glam fall) as a hip hop status symbol. This Cristal, however, is the first Brut to be made using 100% organic and biodynamic fruit. (Roederer has dabbled in such green territory before, with the release of their 2007 Cristal Rosé.) The bubbles are particularly lively—Cristal’s calling card—and they deliver a nose of honey and hazelnut. The first thing you taste is bright green apple and lemon drop candy, followed by passionfruit curd and vanilla. Even at nearly 300 bucks, this one is worth every penny.

The post This Holiday Season, Treat Yourself to Vintage Champagne appeared first on Saveur.

Sparkling rosé adds a hint of raspberry flavor and a rosy hue to this take on the French 75.

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

INGREDIENTS

1½ oz. Jacopo Poli pinot noir grappa
1 oz. fresh lemon juice
¾ oz. simple syrup
2 oz. pink champagne, preferably Billecart-Salmon brut rosé

INSTRUCTIONS

Combine grappa, lemon juice, and simple syrup in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled champagne flute; top with pink champagne.

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If there’s one thing synonymous with New Year’s Eve (Times Square’s suffocating crowds aside), it’s Champagne, without question. And, of course, a great bottle is a host’s best friend. No time to prep drinks? Champagne. Going the extra mile? Champagne cocktails. Missing a centerpiece? Find a pretty vessel and throw a few bottles on ice, et voilà—a functional gathering place for guests to serve themselves while you worry about more pressing matters, like taking a breather and socializing, glass of your own in hand.

There’s really no shortage of excellent Champagnes across the budget spectrum, so the only difficult part about France’s finely effervescent gift to humankind is figuring out which bottle is right for you (and deciding how to put your personal spin on sharing it). New York Champagne Week and CitySip founder Blaine Ashley is a major proponent of strategic pairing.

“I hostess often at my humble abode as well as attend a lot of events and parties,” says Ashley. “My rule of thumb is to always have a bottle of bubbly along with something to complement the food being served. If it’s a cocktail party, I’m likely to opt for two sparklings: one bottle from a grower dear to me, or my own Champagne (Champagne Lombard Bulle de Rêve) alongside a quaffable, quality Crémant d’Alsace rosé or Crémant du Jura.” Ashley also recommends quality glassware: “I always love whipping out my Jamesse Prestige Grand Champagne glasses.”

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Jean-Remi Barbier of legacy brand Champagne Pommery, an avid saberer, offers a few tips for the ultimate party trick: “First, remove the label from the head of your bottle and bury the neck of your bottle in ice for about 10 minutes. It’s very important to have the neck extremely chilled. Then, hold the bottle by the bottom, placing your thumb in the hole…the key is to hit the right point by just sliding your saber delicately. It’s not about forcing. Lastly, make sure to not hit anything or anyone, of course. If there is a risk but you want to make the show, attach the ‘muselet’ (wire cap) to the bottle with a string or a napkin.” Barbier recounts his most creative sabering endeavors: “You can use lot of things to saber; the funniest I’ve used have been my iPhone and a ski!” Start small, though, if you’re a beginner. A standard knife will do just fine.

Without further ado, here are 12 excellent Champagnes to serve (and drink) this New Year’s Eve.

Nicolas Feuillatte

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It comes as no surprise that the #1 Champagne in France—and #3 worldwide—also happens to be the master of special edition bottles. Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte’s 2017 collection of special editions, particularly its Star Shower Tin, make for great gifts or keepsakes; the tin contains the house’s Brut Réserve, a gorgeous wine with interesting savory spice on the nose and a strong yet delicate body of honeyed white fruits.

Moët & Chandon Champagne

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Moët’s iconic Impérial Brut Champagne is a staple. It’s approachable both in palate and price point, featuring subtle complexities around notes of vibrant fruit and buttery brioche. Its bubbles are ultra-fine, and after over 100 years of practice (this particular Champagne was created by the house in 1869), it’s safe to say that it’s quite near perfection, especially at such a reasonable cost (and the festive holiday wrapping doesn’t hurt, either).

Champagne Pommery

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Pommery’s Brut Royal, a staple in the house’s range, earned 90 points from Wine Spectator; this is an exquisite fruit-forward wine with a long, rich finish and full of bright berry notes throughout. If you’re looking for something a bit less traditional in terms of presentation, Pommery offers several different (yet equally darling) mini bottles within their POP line, including an extra dry and a rosé. The bottles also double as whimsical party favors or photo props.

Mumm

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In appearance alone, Mumm’s brand new Grand Cordon bottle is fit for a celebratory occasion. (The wine itself is great too, so consider this one a double threat). Acclaimed artist and industrial designer Ross Lovegrove is behind the newly-unveiled look of the award-winning $45 blend of pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot and pinot meunier, a golden-hued masterpiece with rich fruit and vanilla notes on the nose and a palate of toasty caramel leading into an enveloping, lingering finish.

Champagn Autréau

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This incredibly reasonably priced Champagne is the frontrunner for the hidden gem of this list—typically, blanc de blancs (exclusively white grape) and blanc de noirs (exclusively black grape) Champagnes are considered to be of higher quality and rarity than a blend, thus calling for higher price points. However, small grower brands like Autréau de Champillon have the ability to control their own costs and are at times capable of offering a premium product at more attractive pricing brackets than larger houses. Autréau’s Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is 100-percent chardonnay, boasting strong citrus and floral notes over a buttery base, great for sipping on its own or alongside any seafood dish.

Taittinger

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This brut Champagne is absolutely extraordinary; made up of 40% chardonnay and 60% pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes, Champagne Taittinger’s Brut La Française’s striking balance is everything you’d want in a celebratory bottle of bubbly. Fruit, floral elements, and vanilla are prominent; pair with anything and everything.

BottleRocket

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Blaine Ashley’s own Champagne, which launched in collaboration with Champagne Lombard on Global Champagne Day in October 2016, is a “total steal at $59 retail,” says Ashley. “The name (Bulle de Rêve, or ‘dream bubble’) was inspired by the neighborhood I lived in when I started New York Champagne Week: dreamy Irving Place in Gramercy.” This wine is a 100% blanc de noirs 2011 Premier Cru Extra Brut; Ashley suggests serving extra chilled in a white wine glass versus a traditional Champagne glass for optimal tasting.

Charles Heidsieck

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If there were any appropriate time to drink liquid velvet, it’d surely be New Year’s Eve…and that’s where Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve comes in. This wine is unbelievably elegant, especially for one that comes in for under 100 bucks. It’s complex and distinctive, thanks to the blend’s DNA of 40% reserve wines, which together make way for creamy pastry and ripe red fruit notes, ending strong with a long nutty vanilla finish.

Laurent-Perrier

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Champagne Laurent-Perrier created this bold, beautiful rosé back in 1968, and it’s since become a staple for both the house and the world’s bubbly aficionados alike thanks to its distinctive flavor profile of deep berries and its ability to stand up to heavy dishes like osso buco, pâtés and rillettes, rich cheeses, and roasted meats. If you’re going the rosé route this year, this is your best bet (bonus: it’s currently available in a holiday set with two presentation-worthy glasses).

Perrier-Jouët

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Since 1811, Perrier-Jouët has produced some of the world’s most celebrated Champagnes; among them, their iconic Belle Époque vintages, always delicate and rife with distinctive floral notes. The 2007 is stunning in its full-bodied freshness, pale gold color, and honeysuckle nose, following with a prominent almond milk note on the palate. This Champagne is also available as gift set with two flutes at same price point with the option of personalized engraving.

Louis Roederer

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Officially the most regal of the roundup, Louis Roederer Cristal’s roots date back to 1876 when it was created especially for Tsar Alexander II, heavy crystal bottle and all (hence the name). The 2009 vintage reflects the sunny summer after which its grapes were harvested with a beautifully bright body, though darker undertones weave in and out; it is hallmarked by tasting notes of honeysuckle, cacao, candied fruit, black licorice, and slight baking spice. Louis Roederer Cristal 2009 is a luxurious enigma fit for the refined palate.

Armand de Brignac

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This Champagne house is known for its luxe, non-traditional metal bottles, and the liquid inside is every bit as luxurious as its outward appearance might indicate. And while its relatively recent owner, none other than hip-hop mogul Jay-Z, touts a big name, Champagne Armand de Brignac is run by a surprisingly small team of 18 people with over three centuries of combined experience. This is a wine that is worth every bit of the hype that surrounds it. Opt for the demi-sec—or medium dry, in simpler terms, meaning sweeter than a brut—it’s the only prestige cuvée demi-sec in the world, making it a fantastic choice for ringing in the new year or any special occasion that follows.

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For a festive night, nothing beats a glass of sparkling wine—except maybe a sparkling cocktail. These bubbly drinks are the perfect way to celebrate anything, whether it’s ringing in the new year, toasting a new job, or celebrating Thanksgiving. Accompany your bubbles with a few snacks and appetizers, and you’ll be the ultimate host. But sparkling drinks don’t only have to be for a celebration. These drinks are so tasty and fun, we definitely won’t judge if you drink them on a regular basis. Whether you’re looking for a standalone cocktail or to add some champagne to a punch bowl for the whole crowd, our best bubbly cocktails will please you and your guests.

Pomme Rosé

Sparkling rose adds berry notes to this take on a French 75. Replacing the gin traditionally used, Calvados imbues a richer, woodsy, and slightly sweeter flavor. Get the recipe for Pomme Rosé »

Vodka Lavender Thyme Lemonade

This lemonade gains herbaceous depth from lavender and thyme, while vodka delivers a good, clean punch. Get the recipe for Vodka Lavender Thyme Lemonade »

Planet of the Grapes

We love this alluring concoction, which blends Pavan, an orange blossom–infused liqueur, with vodka, chamomile syrup, and sparkling wine. Get the recipe for Planet of the Grapes »

Violent Fairytales

A dash of sparkling wine gives this cocktail a bright finish. Get the recipe for Violent Fairytales »

Horse & Carriage

New York City bar The Daily serves this lightly sweet, effervescent gin-based punch made with chamomile tea and sparkling wine. Created by mixologist Naren Young, it was inspired by classic holiday punches but is easily adapted to any season—try it in fall garnished with apples, pears, and cinnamon sticks; in winter with citrus slices and pomegranate; and in spring with edible flowers. Get the recipe for Horse & Carriage »

Lady Stoneheart

For this ode to the Game of Thrones noblewoman, Punt e Mes—the dark and bitter quina-vermouth hybrid—is softened with a long pour of champagne. Get the recipe for Lady Stoneheart »

Rosé All Day

A papaya shrub, easily made weeks in advance, adds earthy sweet-and-sour notes to this playful prosecco sparkler. Get the recipe for Rosé All Day »

Golden Chrysanthemum

Tokyo native Kenta Goto pays tribute to the beloved Japanese golden chrysanthemum flower with this amber, pear-flavored Champagne elixir. Get the recipe for Golden Chrysanthemum »

The Moonwalk

The drink—an enlivened combination of grapefruit juice, orange liqueur, and a hint of rose water, topped with bubbly—was the first thing astronauts Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin sipped upon returning to earth. Get the recipe for The Moonwalk »

Blooming Champagne Cocktail

A single hibiscus flower scented with a drop or two of rose water turns a simple glass of sparkling wine into a show-stopping cocktail. Get the recipe for the Blooming Champagne Cocktail »

Rossini

A luscious take on the bellini, the Rossini swaps strawberries in for white peaches and prosecco in for champagne. Get the recipe for Rossini »

The Harvest Spritz

Cardamaro and Aperol add bittersweet and fruity notes to a spiced take on the classic spritz. Get the recipe for the Harvest Spritz »

Arbor Blush

Pisco, the South American brandy made from grapes, adds a floral, citrusy kick to this sparkling cocktail made with Lillet Rosé and champagne. Get the recipe for Arbor Blush »

Rosewater Fizz

Simple, fruity, and slightly floral, this champagne-based cocktail comes to us by way of astrologer/bartender Patricia Clark Hippolyte, who developed the drink for our Mixstrology series. Get the recipe for Rosewater Fizz »

The Clipperton

This wonderfully fruity concoction spiked with the gin-based liqueur Pimm’s No. 1 is served at RPM Italian restaurantin Chicago. Get the recipe for the Clipperton »

Arnaud’s French 75

This elegant libation of cognac, lemon, and champagne is served at the historic bar attached to Arnaud’s restaurant, which dates to the late 1800s. Get the recipe for Arnaud’s French 75 »

Negroni Sbagliato

This bubbly Negroni variation, whose name means “bungled,” was invented at Bar Basso in Milan in 1968 when a bartender accidentally put sparkling wine into the drink instead of gin. It is an excellent choice for a brunch cocktail. Get the recipe for Negroni Sbagliato »

The Antoinette

An elegant drink that packs a surprising punch, this vodka and prosecco cocktail is poured at Oak restaurant in Dallas. Get the recipe for the Antoinette »

Fizzy Lifting Drink

This bubbly, pink concoction of Champagne dosed with fruity crème de cassis and spicy ginger liqueur is inspired by the mysterious drink of the same name from the movie Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. Get the recipe for Fizzy Lifting Drink »

Pear and Port Cocktail

Pear, citrus, and herbal flavors meld together for this fruity, Champagne-topped cocktail. Get the recipe for Pear and Port Cocktail »

The Parasol

Honey, Lillet, and St. Germain join prosecco in a light, herbaceous, and citrusy brunch drink. Get the recipe for the Parasol »

Crush and Swizzle

Pomegranate juice gives this rum-laced prosecco drink a sweetness that belies its potency. Get the recipe for Crush and Swizzle »

Coupe DeVille

To make this cocktail from bartender Keith Nelson of Manhattan’s Arlington Club, purchase pear-infused vodka or make your own by letting sliced ripe pears sit in vodka for at least two weeks. Get the recipe for Coupe DeVille »

Prosecco, Honey, and Lime Cocktail

In this refreshing take on classic tiki drink The Airmail—a prosecco cocktail featuring honey syrup and lime—head bartender Alba Huerta at Julep in Houston replaces the rum with gin and adds pineapple juice and fresh dill for a savory twist. Get the recipe for Prosecco, Honey, and Lime Cocktail »

The Volstead

Fresh berries shaken with ice, vodka, lemon, and St. Germain, strained into a champagne flute and topped with Champagne, created a drink that fizzes dramatically. Get the recipe for The Volstead »

Sgroppino

Sgroppino, a slushy combination of lemon sorbet, vodka, and prosecco, is common in Italy as a palate cleanser, a dessert, or a pre-dinner drink. Whisk the ingredients together for a chilly, frothy twist. Get the recipe for Sgroppino »

Everything’s Coming Up Rosé

This bright fuchsia aperitivo mixes tannic hibiscus tea, sweet Lillet Rosé, and dry rosé with a hit of prosecco. Get the recipe for Everything’s Coming Up Rosé »

Bianchini

This cloudy, coconuty version of a bellini comes from Manhattan restaurant Lievito. Get the recipe for Bianchini »

Cacao Fruit Cocktail

Puréed cacao pulp meets cachaça in this unexpected sipper. Tart lemon provides a burst of freshness, while a splash of sparkling wine adds lift. Get the recipe for Cacao Fruit Cocktail »

Punch House Spritz

Lambrusco rosé, Cocchi Americano, fresh grapefruit juice, and club soda come together in this simple spritz. Get the recipe for Punch House Spritz »

Bee’s Knees

Kansas City’s Rye restaurant pours this classic, a honey-sweetened gin potion, which gets its effervescence from a splash of rosé champagne. Get the recipe for Bee’s Knees »

Hibiscus, Vodka, and Champagne Cocktail

Bartender Kaiko Tulloch riffs on the Champagne cocktail with a more floral and herbal version at Lucky Liquor Co. in Edinburgh. Get the recipe for Hibiscus, Vodka, and Champagne Cocktail »

Moto Guzzi Spritz Cocktail

Named after the motorcycle brand, this Aperol spritz riff from Atlanta’s Greg Best, subs Cappelletti aperitivo, a red-wine-based aperitif, for Aperol. Get the recipe for Moto Guzzi Spritz Cocktail »

Bellini

The traditional Bellini is made with white peach purée and sparkling wine, but the addition of peach brandy intensifies and sweetens the cocktail. Get the recipe for Bellini »

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“Most people don’t even recognize this wine as prosecco,” says Luca Ferraro of Bele Casel winery, an organically farmed family estate in Asolo, Italy, just over an hour’s drive northwest of Venice. Hazy with sediment, the wine certainly doesn’t resemble typical prosecco, that crisp, clean, quintessentially carefree breed of bubbly. But as Ferraro is quick to point out, this is “the real prosecco.”

He’s talking about prosecco col fondo (meaning “with its bottom” or “with sediment”), an unfiltered, lightly effervescent, bottle-fermented expression of prosecco, produced with the deposit of spent yeast cells intact. Markedly drier, yeastier, and more savory than conventional versions of the wine, it has been produced in and around the rolling hills of Asolo, which, along with the towns of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano, constitutes the wine’s ancestral home. Up until a few decades ago, if you entered one of the area’s bustling tavernas and ordered “un bicchiere di prosecco,” the presiding oste (literally “host” but, in practice, a regional hybrid of tavern-keeper and sommelier) would have served you a glass of col fondo.

Like many of their neighbors, the Ferraros abandoned the category during the 1980s in order to satisfy the modern demand for clear, fresh, tank-fermented bubbles. But in 2008, after tasting a col fondo made by a friend, Ferraro decided to start producing it again. Although the initial run was limited to just 1,000 bottles, Bele Casel now releases more than 20,000 bottles of col fondo annually, in addition to its conventional range of prosecco. It has been joined by a growing number of producers who are reconsidering col fondo and its connection to the land of their ancestors.

Originally, col fondo was a natural byproduct of the seasons. In winter temperatures, the initial fermentation would come to a halt, then bubble up again in spring; trapped in the bottle, the released carbon dioxide imparted a gentle sparkle. But col fondo wasn’t always called by that name. It was simply prosecco, a distinct expression of the hillside vineyards from which it came. Today, however, it’s odd to think of prosecco as a terroir-driven wine. It has evolved into such a ubiquitous brand that it’s easy to forget it refers to a specific part of the world, whose inhabitants have been making vino for centuries. The longer you speak with colfondisti like Ferraro, who are all too aware of this tension, the clearer the disconnect between product and place becomes.

In the 1970s, when stainless-steel tank fermentation remade prosecco into a mass-produced commodity, many growers abandoned col fondo, and profited from selling their grapes to the corporate firms that still dominate production. This side of prosecco has grown into a multimillion-dollar industry, but many believe that tank fermentation ultimately sanitizes and homogenizes the wine, sacrificing complexity for the sake of quick returns. The widespread success of the resulting style came to define the region as a whole.

“When the tanks were introduced, they took over,” recalls Paolo Bressan, export manager for Ca’ dei Zago winery in Valdobbiadene, one of the few estates that exclusively produce col fondo. “With a prosecco that comes from the tank, you don’t feel the identity of the terroir anymore—the soul of the region gets lost.”

To its proponents, the col fondo renaissance signals a return to prosecco’s severed roots. As Ernesto Cattel, cofounder of Costadilà, puts it, the point is “to give new visibility to the traditional farmhouse wines our grandfathers made.” He began making col fondo in 2005.

A different sort of nostalgia, however, accounts for col fondo‘s nascent popularity in the United States, where the vogue for minimally processed “natural” wines—notably, pétillant naturel, the unfiltered bubbly from France—has guaranteed it an audience.

Joe Campanale, beverage director and co-owner of New York City restaurants Dell’anima, Anfora, and L’Apicio, views the growing American awareness of col fondo as the latest iteration of a larger trend: our fetish for all things heirloom. “It’s similar to the interest in orange wines,” he clarifies, referencing another ancient winemaking style. “It’s the premodern way of winemaking, and people are curious to experience a close approximation of wines drunk years ago.”

What draws us to heritage products like col fondo is the desire to align with an older, seemingly more authentic set of values; for the span of a glass or two, a pastoral vision of Italian village life is imported into our suburban backyards or cramped city apartments. This is an inherently modern longing—not for the past so much as for our Technicolor fantasy of it.

A great deal of modern marketing narrative is built upon this grand artisanal fantasy, which rustic col fondo neatly fulfills. We’ve returned to these points of origin because our preferences have evolved. As the American palate has progressed from sweet to dry to bitter to sour—embracing everything from kale and vermouth-based cocktails to pickling, natural cider, and now col fondo—we’ve charted our way forward by doubling back.

Three Bottles to Find

Traditionally, col fondo would be decanted to clear the sediment, but today, many prefer to drink it as cloudy as it comes.

Ca’ dei Zago Prosecco Col Fondo, $20
Sourced from old vines planted high up in the terraced slopes of Valdobbiadene and produced by the Zago family for five generations, this signature, biodynamic wine clocks in at a refreshing 10% alcohol and offers a textbook introduction to the style.

Costadilà Bianco dei Colli Trevigiani 330 slm, $24
Among the first expressions of col fondo to gain attention in the United States, Costadilà’s labels are named according the altitude at which the grapes are grown. Round, yeasty, and pear scented, the 330 slm is an ideal accompaniment to prosciutto and other cured meats.

Zanotto Col Fondo, $20
With its inherent salinity and fresh core of green apples, Riccardo Zanotto’s col fondo verges on the style’s leaner and more mineral taste. Consider it the quintessential aperitivo wine.

Other names to look for:
Bele Casel, Casa Coste Piane, Miotto

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