Middle Eastern | Saveur

Bhindi Masala (Okra Stir-Fry)

Fatima Khawaja — Tue, 05 Jul 2022 20:35:31 +0000

Photo: Linda Xiao • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Summer Moore. Photo: Linda Xiao • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Summer Moore

When people think of okra, they often think of slime and goo, but I’m here to tell you that, with the right technique, the tender green pod might become your new favorite vegetable.

Growing up in Pakistan, okra was always golden and crisp but also tender, robed in a saucy masala of juicy tomatoes and velvety onions. I still make it this way in my New York kitchen whenever I return from the farmers market with a bag of okra. Following my mom’s recipe, I start with a base of garlic, ginger, chile powder, and turmeric. Then I add the onions and fried okra and simmer everything to meld the flavors.

Sadly, I can’t always find okra at my local farmers market, but a bag of the frozen stuff from the Indian supermarket works great in a pinch. It comes stemmed and sliced, which saves me time in the kitchen; I just cook it a little longer and don’t deep-fry it (the extra water makes it splatter).

When buying fresh okra, look for medium pods that are bright green, dry, unblemished, and no longer than your index finger: The bigger, the tougher is the rule I go by. Okra is surprisingly inexpensive and will keep for about four days, refrigerated in a paper towel-lined produce bag. You can use any extra okra in this Caribbean-Style Sautéed Okra recipe, which is a personal favorite.

To clean okra, give the pods a rinse, then spread them on a kitchen towel. (They soak up water, so it’s important that they be as dry as possible to ensure proper crisping.) With some quick prep, this stir-fry comes together in no time. I encourage you to sop it up with roti (flatbread), like chapatis or parathas, or to ladle it over basmati rice.

Yield: 4

Time: 40 minutes

¾ cup vegetable oil
1 lb. okra, stemmed and cut into 1-in. lengths (5 cups)
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 large white onion, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp. ginger paste
1 tsp. Indian red chile powder, or cayenne pepper
1 tsp. garlic paste
1 tsp. ground turmeric
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
2 medium plum tomatoes, cut into wedges
Steamed basmati rice or roti, for serving

Instructions

To a large, wide pot over medium-high heat, add the oil. When it’s shimmering and begins to smoke, add the okra and fry, stirring continuously, until softened and browned, 10–15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. To the empty pot, add the garlic and onions and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are translucent, 4–6 minutes. Add the ginger paste, chile powder, garlic paste, turmeric, and salt and cook until fragrant and beginning to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have softened, 4–6 minutes. Stir in the reserved okra and continue cooking until the tomatoes have broken down, 2–3 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and serve hot with rice or roti.

The post Bhindi Masala (Okra Stir-Fry) appeared first on Saveur.

Persian Cantaloupe Drink

Farideh Sadeghin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:36 +0000

Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

SAVEUR contributing editor Farideh Sadeghin got the recipe for this refreshing melon drink from her Iranian-born father, who makes it by grating fresh cantaloupe and combining it with water, sugar, and mint. You can also add a little gin for a cooling summer cocktail.

Featured in “Chasing the Perfect Persian Rice.”

Yield: 6 cups

Time: 5 minutes

1 cantaloupe (about 3 lb.)
¼ cup sugar, plus more to taste
Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish

Instructions

Peel the cantaloupe, then halve it and scoop out and discard the seeds. Cut each cantaloupe half into two pieces and coarsely grate them into a large bowl. Stir in the sugar and 3½ cups of water, then taste and add more sugar if necessary. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes.
Serve in cups over ice, garnished with mint.

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Bastani Sonnati Ice Cream Sandwiches

Ali Saboor — Fri, 16 Aug 2024 15:44:49 +0000

Photo: Nina Gallant • Food Styling: Madison Trapkin. Photo: Nina Gallant • Food Styling: Madison Trapkin

At Eyval in Brooklyn, chef Ali Saboor’s artful hand and Persian influence extend beyond the savories and onto the dessert menu—most notably with this elegant bastani sonnati ice cream sandwich. Perfumed with saffron, rosewater, and citrus and studded with raisins, the shortening-based cookies stay soft when frozen. They’re paired with Saboor’s bastani sonnati, a traditional Persian ice cream made with saffron and rosewater and typically served plain or sandwiched between two wafers. Saboor recommends seeking out rosewater from the brands Sham’s or Sadaf.

If you want to give your frozen treats an extra flourish, Saboor suggests finishing them with a pistachio-rose sprinkle. The colorful mix is lovely pressed into the edges of these ice cream sandwiches or even sprinkled over a sundae: In a small bowl, toss ¼ cup coarsely chopped roasted pistachios with ⅓ cup dried rose petals. Transfer to an airtight jar and store in a cool place for up to 3 months.

Featured in “6 Bold Ice Cream Sandwich Recipes to Change Things Up This Summer” by Kat Craddock.

Yield: Makes 20 sandwiches

Time: 18 hours

Ingredients

For the ice cream:

1⅓ cups heavy cream
1⅓ cups whole milk
Pinch saffron threads, ground to a powder
⅔ cup sugar
6 large egg yolks
¼ cup rosewater

For the cookies:

Pinch saffron threads, ground to a powder
1¼ cups sugar
¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. shortening
1 tsp. finely grated orange zest
2 large eggs
1¼ cups all-purpose flour, sifted
Nonstick baking spray
¼ cup golden raisins

Instructions

Make the ice cream: Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and place a smaller bowl inside it. To a medium pot set over medium-low heat, add the cream, milk, and saffron. In a medium bowl, whisk together the sugar and egg yolks. When the cream-milk mixture is warm, whisk about a third of it into the yolk mixture until the sugar is dissolved and the liquid is smooth, then whisk the yolk mixture back into the pot. Cook the custard, using a silicone spatula to scrape the bottom of the pot continuously, until thickened and a digital thermometer reads 175–180°F, about 3 minutes. (Don’t walk away from the stove, stop stirring, or let the mixture boil, or the custard may curdle.) Remove from the heat, then transfer the custard to the ice bath; cool, stirring occasionally, until cold to the touch.
Stir the rosewater into the custard, remove it from the ice bath, then cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 12 hours, or up to 24. (Don’t skip this step, as churning immediately may cause the cream to separate.)
Meanwhile, make the cookies: In a small bowl, place an ice cube and sprinkle over the saffron; set aside until the ice has melted (this creates a saffron “cold brew”). Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the sugar, shortening, and orange zest on low, scraping down the bottom and sides of the bowl occasionally, until just combined. Add the eggs and 1¼ teaspoons of the saffron concentrate (reserve any remainder for another use) and continue mixing on low speed, scraping down the bowl as needed, until incorporated. Add the flour and continue mixing until just combined.
Grease an 18- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet with nonstick spray, line with parchment paper, then lightly grease the paper. Scrape the cookie batter onto the sheet and, using an offset spatula, spread into an even layer. Refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Sprinkle the raisins evenly over the batter, pushing down gently with your fingers to settle them into the dough. Bake until the edges are slightly browned but the cookie is still soft in the center, 18–20 minutes. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, line a 9- by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment, allowing the paper to overhang the two long sides of the pan. Transfer the sheet to the freezer.
Transfer the custard to an ice cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions until thick, frozen, and no longer wet in appearance, about 25 minutes. Retrieve the chilled baking sheet and, using a silicone spatula, scrape the ice cream onto it, smoothing the surface into an even layer. Freeze until solid, 4–6 hours.
Build the ice cream sandwiches: Carefully transfer the baked cookie to a large cutting board and, using a large knife, trim any dry or crumbly bits from the edges, then cut the sheet in half crosswise. Gently flip one half over, raisin-side-down. With the ice cream still on the baking sheet, use the parchment paper to lift it out of the baking sheet, then invert it atop the upside-down cookie. Peel off and discard the parchment and place the other cookie half, raisin-side-up, over the ice cream, pressing down gently to adhere. Transfer the ice cream sandwich slab back to the 9- by 13-inch baking sheet and return to the freezer until very firm, at least 30 minutes.
Transfer the slab back to the cutting board. Using the large knife, cut into 10 approximately 3-inch squares. Halve each square diagonally to make triangles. Transfer the ice cream sandwiches back to the rimmed baking sheet and freeze until the sandwiches are very firm, at least 1 hour. Serve straight from the freezer. (The sandwiches will keep for 2 weeks; if serving more than 4 hours later, wrap the tray tightly with plastic wrap.)

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Scrambled Eggs with Garlicky Artichokes

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:09 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

In Syria, this simple breakfast dish known as ardi shawki bil-bayd is usually served as a homey scramble accompanied by fried white cheese, rich, creamy yogurt, and flatbread. A mélange of fluffy eggs, meltingly soft artichoke hearts, and pleasantly grassy fresh parsley, it’s a remarkable example of something being greater than the sum of its parts.

Sautéing the artichokes with the garlic separately and folding them into the eggs at the last minute keeps the scramble lighter. While this recipe calls for frozen artichoke hearts for convenience, you can also use fresh: sub in two to three hearts of medium artichokes, trimmed, steamed, and sliced. Find our guide on how to trim an artichoke here.

Featured in “The Heart of the Syrian Artichoke” by Clifford A. Wright.

Buy the SAVEUR Selects Nitri-Black Carbon Steel 12-Inch Frying Pan here.

Yield: 2

Time: 10 minutes

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
1 cup frozen quartered artichoke hearts, thawed in a strainer
4 large eggs
¼ cup heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Finely chopped parsley leaves, for garnish

Instructions

In a large skillet over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. When it stops foaming, add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 1–2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl.
Add the artichokes to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until warmed through but not colored, 2–3 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the garlic.
In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, and 1 tablespoon of water until frothy. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Wipe out the skillet, return to medium heat, and add the remaining butter. When it’s melted, add the eggs and cook, folding gently with a silicone spatula, until set and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Fold in the reserved artichoke mixture, then divide the scramble between two plates. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately.

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Dukkah

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:18 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Dukkah is a coarsely ground nut, seed, and spice mix that originally hails from Egypt. This version teams buttery hazelnuts and sesame seeds with heady coriander and cumin. To enjoy it, take a slice of crusty bread and dip it in olive oil followed by the dukkah. It’s also excellent sprinkled on everything from eggs to hummus to roasted vegetables.

Featured in “Elegant Aussies” by Paul Lukacs in the March 2008 issue.

Yield: Makes 2 cups

Time: 20 minutes

¾ cup hazelnuts
½ cup sesame seeds
½ cup coriander seeds
¼ cup cumin seeds
½ tsp. black peppercorns, cracked
Baguette slices and extra-virgin olive oil, for serving

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and bake until golden, about 6 minutes. Wrap the hazelnuts in a kitchen towel and allow to cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Vigorously rub the hazelnuts in the towel to loosen the skins, then peel them completely and transfer to a food processor.
In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the sesame seeds until lightly golden, about 1 minute. Transfer to the food processor.
In the same skillet, toast the coriander seeds and cumin seeds until they are fragrant and begin to color, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the food processor and allow to cool completely, then add the black peppercorns and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs.
Serve with the baguette slices and bowls of oil for dipping.

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Turkish Braised Artichokes with Peas and Candied Lemon

Gamze Ineceli — Wed, 17 Apr 2024 18:04:43 +0000

Brian Klutch. Brian Klutch

“Artichokes have a special place at the table of Istanbulites,” says Gamze Ineceli, an Istanbul-based researcher and expert in Anatolian food studies. Her classic Turkish braised artichokes recipe with peas and candied lemon is a family favorite that was perfected over generations. If you don’t want the artichokes to turn brown, rub them all over with a halved lemon as you trim.

Featured in “Why You Should Heart Artichokes (If You Don’t Already)” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 4 as an appetizer

Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

For the candied lemon:

2 medium lemons, divided
1 Tbsp. sugar

For the topping:

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
5 scallions, green tops discarded, thinly sliced
1 lb. green peas (3¼ cups), fresh or frozen
1 tsp. kosher salt
¾ tsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped dill fronds

For the artichokes:

1 Tbsp. sugar
1½ tsp. kosher salt
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 trimmed globe artichoke bottoms (1 lb. 13 oz.)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Coarsely chopped dill fronds, for garnish
Lemon wedges, for serving

Instructions

Make the candied lemon: Using a sharp knife or mandoline, cut one of the lemons crosswise into ⅛-inch slices and transfer to a small skillet. Add the sugar and the juice of the remaining lemon and turn the heat to medium-low. Cook until the liquid has evaporated and the lemon slices are coated in thick syrup, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Make the topping: To a medium skillet over medium heat, add the oil and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the scallions and cook until slightly softened, about 1 minute more. Add the peas, salt, sugar, and enough water to barely cover (about 1½ cups). Bring to a boil, then cover and turn the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the peas are soft, about 5 minutes. Drain, then stir in the dill, turn off the heat, cover, and set aside.
Make the artichokes: To a medium skillet, add the sugar, salt, and onion and use your hands to toss until the onion softens slightly, about 30 seconds. Place the artichoke hearts, cavities facing down, on top of the onion mixture, then drizzle with the olive oil, rubbing to coat. Add enough water to barely cover the hearts (about ⅔ cup). Bring to a boil, then cover and turn the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the artichokes are soft when pierced with a knife, about 12 minutes.
Using a metal spatula, transfer the artichoke hearts (cavities facing up) to a platter, reserving the liquid. Mound evenly with the pea mixture, then scatter with the candied lemon and spoon with the reserved cooking liquid. Garnish with dill and serve with lemon wedges on the side.

The post Turkish Braised Artichokes with Peas and Candied Lemon appeared first on Saveur.

Palestinian Lamb Stew with Sumac, Chard, and Chickpeas

Laila El-Haddad — Tue, 05 Mar 2024 17:01:58 +0000

Laila El-Haddad

This sumagiyya recipe is a tribute to my aunt, An’am Dalloul, who was killed in an Israeli airstrike in November 2023. She was known in my family for this traditional Gazan stew brimming with lamb, chickpeas, and chard, which she’d often make for Eid.

While any variety of chard will do, rainbow chard will lend the finished dish a nice pinkish hue. Whole sumac berries can be purchased online (if unavailable, substitute ground sumac in step 2 and bring only to a simmer before steeping; do not strain). Roasted tahina (aka red tahina or tahina hamra), which has a deep, nutty flavor, can be found at some specialty grocers, though regular tahini can be used in its place. If you have a low tolerance for heat, seed the chiles. Sumagiyya is wonderful served with olives, sliced radishes, red chile paste, warm Arabic bread, and assorted pickles.

Featured in “A Cuisine Under Siege” by Laila El-Haddad.

Yield: 8

Time: 3 hours

Ingredients

For the broth:

1½ lb. boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-in. pieces
1 tsp. whole allspice berries
1 tsp. black peppercorns
5 green cardamom pods
1 bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick
1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped

For the stew:

½ cup sumac berries, or ⅓ cup ground (see headnote)
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 lb. rainbow chard, thick stems discarded, sliced into ¼-in.-thick ribbons
One 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained, or 1½ cups cooked dried chickpeas
Fine salt
1 Tbsp. dill seeds
1½ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
5 garlic cloves
2 green chile peppers, such as serrano, finely chopped (see headnote)
2 Tbsp. coarsely ground sumac, preferably Al-Ard brand, plus more for garnish
1 tsp. ground coriander seeds
3 Tbsp. roasted sesame tahini, or regular tahini (see headnote)
Ground Aleppo pepper (optional) and sumac, for serving

Instructions

Make the broth: In a large pot, cover the meat with 8 cups of water and bring to a boil, skimming any scum that rises to the surface. Add the allspice, peppercorns, cardamom, bay leaf, cinnamon stick, and onion. Turn the heat down to maintain a strong simmer and cook until the lamb is tender, about 2 hours. Place a strainer over a large bowl and strain, reserving the meat and broth and discarding the spices. Wipe out the pot and return it to the stove.
Make the stew: In a small bowl of water, swish the sumac berries with your hands to remove any grit. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a saucepan and cover with 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil and continue boiling until the liquid has reduced by about half (the berries will not soften), about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to steep until lukewarm, about 30 minutes. Strain into a small bowl and discard the berries. Whisk in the flour until smooth.
To the empty pot, add the oil and onion and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and beginning to brown, 7–9 minutes. Stir in the chard and cook until bright green and wilted slightly, about 5 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon of salt, the chickpeas, and reserved broth and lamb and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook for 10 minutes more.
Meanwhile, using a mortar and pestle, coarsely grind together the dill seeds, chile flakes, and ½ teaspoon of salt. Add the garlic cloves and green chiles and pound to a coarse paste. Stir the paste into the stew along with the ground sumac, coriander, and sumac-flour mixture.
Return the stew to a simmer. In a bowl, whisk together a ladleful of the broth and the tahini, then stir the mixture into the stew and simmer until thickened slightly, 3–5 minutes.
To serve, ladle the stew into serving bowls and serve warm or at room temperature topped with Aleppo pepper (if desired), sumac, and a drizzle of oil.

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Cabbage Rolls with Beef and Rice

SAVEUR Editors — Thu, 10 Oct 2019 18:09:02 +0000

Get the recipe for Cabbage Rolls with Beef and Rice ». Denny Culbert

Tender, generously spiced, and cooked in a pool of tomato and butter sauce, these silky cabbage rolls are a staple at Jamil’s in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Look for a firm cabbage with no bruising on the leaves.

Featured in: “The Last Lebanese Steakhouse in Tulsa,” by Naomi Tomky.

Yield: makes 15

Time: 1 hour 40 minutes

1 large head white or green cabbage (2 lb.)
1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more for the water
¼ cup tomato paste
1½ lb. ground beef
¾ cup (6 oz.) unsalted butter, melted and divided
½ cup (3¾ oz.) medium-grain rice
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
3 whole garlic cloves, unpeeled

Instructions

Use a paring knife to cut out the core of the cabbage in a neat circle, and discard it, leaving the head whole.
Fill a large bowl with ice water, and place it by the stove. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rapid boil over high heat, then add the cabbage head, stem side up. Use tongs to carefully remove the leaves as they separate from the head, transferring them to the ice water as they release. When all the leaves are removed and chilled, drain them well and pat dry. Split the largest leaves in half, and cut away and discard any large, tough ribs.
In a medium bowl, whisk 2 cups cold water with the tomato paste and set aside. In a large bowl, combine the beef, ½ cup melted butter, the rice, 3 tablespoons cold water, ½ teaspoon salt, the cinnamon, and pepper. Use your hands to mix well.
Working one at a time, wrap ¼-cup portions of the meat mixture tightly in cabbage leaves to form a thick cigar shape, squeezing them snugly to secure. Arrange the rolls tightly along the bottom of a large Dutch oven in a circular pattern. Tuck the garlic cloves between the rolls. Sprinkle with the remaining teaspoon of salt, then add the tomato water. Place a plate on top of the rolls to keep them submerged. Cover the pot and bring the liquid to a boil over medium heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook until the rice is tender and the cabbage leaves are silky, about 45 minutes. Turn off the heat, uncover the pot, and drizzle the remaining butter over the top of the rolls. Cover and let stand off the heat for 15 minutes.
Place a large, rimmed platter upside down over the pot, and invert. Alternatively, use a large spoon to transfer the rolls and their juices to a rimmed platter and serve.

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Middle Eastern Rice with Lentils, Frizzled Onions, and Lemony Yogurt Sauce

Benjamin Kemper — Fri, 10 Mar 2023 18:37:49 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling by Laura Sampedro

Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s weeknight cooking column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest ideas that require just one pot, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

My all-time favorite recipe for mujaddara—that vegetarian Middle Eastern rice-and-lentil dish topped with crisp-fried onions and tangy yogurt sauce—borrows ingredients and techniques from cookbook authors like Yotam Ottolenghi and Paula Wolfert, plus skilled home cooks who let me peer over their shoulders. If you have time, toast the spices whole, then grind them yourself—it’s worth the extra step.

Yield: 6

Ingredients

For the sauce:

1 cup full-fat plain Greek yogurt
1 small garlic clove, very finely chopped
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
Ground sumac and extra-virgin olive oil, for garnish (optional)

For the rice:

Olive or vegetable oil, for frying
4 medium onions, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup basmati rice (7½ oz.), rinsed in a strainer until the water runs clear
2 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. ground cumin
¾ tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. ground allspice
¼ tsp. ground turmeric
Pinch cayenne pepper, or more to taste
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp. pomegranate molasses, or 1 tsp. sugar
2½ cups cooked brown or green lentils (see footnote)
Coarsely chopped parsley leaves and/or cilantro, for garnish

Instructions

Make the sauce: In a small serving bowl, stir together the yogurt, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt to taste. Cover and refrigerate.
Make the rice: To a large pot, add 1½ cups of oil and turn the heat to high. When it’s hot and shimmering, add one third of the onions and fry, stirring occasionally, until crisp and deep golden brown, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Repeat with the two remaining batches of onions, then strain the oil into a heatproof container and set aside.
To the empty pot, add the coriander, cumin, cinnamon, allspice, turmeric, cayenne, garlic, and 3 tablespoons of the reserved oil and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring continuously, until fragrant, 1–2 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-high and add the rice. Cook, stirring continuously, until translucent, about 2 minutes, then add 1⅔ cups of water, 2 teaspoons of salt, and the pomegranate molasses. Stir in the lentils and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is cooked and has absorbed the water, 14–19 minutes. Turn off the heat.
Use a fork to fluff the rice, then cover and let stand for 8 minutes. Stir in three quarters of the reserved onions, then scatter with the remaining onions and garnish with parsley. Uncover the yogurt sauce, sprinkle with sumac and drizzle with oil, and serve on the side.

Note: Using canned (such as Goya brand), package d, or frozen lentils in this mujaddara recipe means one fewer pot to wash, but if you can’t find them (or prefer to cook your own), boil 1 cup of lentils in a pot of well-salted water until soft but not mushy, 15–25 minutes. Drain and set aside.

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Barbari Flatbread

Nilou Motamed — Wed, 22 Feb 2023 00:13:00 +0000

Barbari bread, or nan-e barbari, is one of my favorite Iranian breakfast foods. The chewy, dimpled flatbread pairs beautifully with everything from lacy fried eggs, to butter and honey, to feta cheese and herbs. Brew some strong black tea to enjoy alongside your breakfast.

Barbari bread is traditionally glazed with a flour paste called roomal, which is applied to the surface of the dough to produce a crisp and satiny crust. In this recipe, I’ve chosen to use a yogurt-based roomal, as this lends the bread an irresistible savory tang and beautiful caramelization.

Featured in “Feasting with Purpose.” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 2 hours 10 minutes

Ingredients

For the dough:

2¼ tsp. active dry yeast
¾ tsp. sugar
4 cups bread flour (490 g), plus more for dusting
2½ tsp. kosher salt
Vegetable oil, for greasing

For topping:

3 Tbsp. plain full-fat yogurt
⅛ tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. white sesame seeds
2 tsp. nigella seeds

Instructions

Make the dough: Into the bowl of a stand mixer, pour 1 cup of lukewarm water, then add the yeast and sugar and stir to combine. (It’s okay to leave a few clumps; the yeast will dissolve.) Cover the bowl with a tea towel or plastic wrap and set aside until the mixture becomes foamy and frothy, about 10 minutes.
In a large bowl, stir together the bread flour and salt, then add it to the yeast mixture and, using a silicone spatula, stir until the water is fully incorporated. Add ¾ cup of lukewarm water and continue stirring until a very shaggy dough forms, about 1 minute.
Place the bowl on the stand mixer and, using the hook attachment, mix on medium-low speed just until the dough is smooth, 3–4 minutes (it will be slightly sticky).
Lightly oil the large bowl from step 2, then transfer the dough into it, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and set aside in a warm place until nearly doubled in size, 45–60 minutes.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and place a pizza stone or steel on it. Preheat to 500°F.
Place a 16-by-10-inch sheet of parchment on a clean work surface and generously dust with flour. Using a bowl scraper, cut the dough in half right in the bowl. Scoop out one half of the dough and place it on the floured parchment. Gently press and stretch the dough into a 9-inch log, dust the surface lightly with flour, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and set aside. Place a second sheet of parchment on the work surface and repeat with the second half of the dough. Set aside until the loaves are very soft and puffed but not quite doubled in size, 20–25 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the topping: In a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt, salt, and 3 tablespoons of water. In a second small bowl, mix together the nigella and sesame seeds.
Uncover one of the loaves and, using your fingertips and adding flour as needed to avoid sticking, gently flatten and push the dough outward, pulling the sides apart as you go, to make a 14-by-8-inch rectangle. Using your pinky and ring fingers, press lengthwise channels into the dough, about 1 inch apart. (Push deeply, but don’t tear the dough.) Brush the surface with half of the glaze, then sprinkle with half of the nigella-sesame mixture.
Use the parchment to slide the glazed loaf onto an inverted baking sheet, then use the baking sheet to transfer onto the hot pizza stone. (You can leave the parchment underneath while it bakes.) Bake, rotating the loaf 180 degrees halfway through, until the surface and bottom are lightly but evenly browned, 10–12 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack while you repeat with the second loaf. Cool for 10 minutes, then cut crosswise into 2-inch slices and serve warm.

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Vegetarian Pulao with Lime Pickle and Raita

Romy Gill — Thu, 02 Feb 2023 23:05:53 +0000

Photography by David Malosh; Food Styling by Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Pulao is part of a family of festive, elaborately spiced rice dishes of which pilaf and biryani are also members. On my travels along the Himalayan Trail, I had the pleasure of eating Yarkhandi pulao. Made with fatty lamb, nuts, and warm spices, I loved the traditional dish’s rich sweetness, which comes from a sprinkling of dried apricots and raisins as well as carrots, which lend the rice its beautiful orange color. The fragrance of spiced rice has always reminded me of my childhood in West Bengal. It’s believed that the Mughals, who ruled India from the sixteenth to nineteenth centuries, introduced Persian, Turkish, Mongolian, and Afghan cuisine to the Subcontinent, and ingredients and techniques from the Middle East and Central Asia still persist in India’s foodways today. There are many ways of making a pulao. Indian versions differ from their Persian ancestors in that they contain more whole spices and chiles. Some are meat- or poultry-based while others are meatless. My family and neighbors prefer to go easy on the meat, so I developed this Yarkhandi-inspired vegetarian pulao recipe just for them. A satisfying meal all on its own, I like to serve it with a creamy raita and lime pickles (achaar).

Yield: 5–6

Time: 1 hour 18 minutes

Ingredients

For the pulao:

2½ cup basmati rice
1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided
3 Tbsp. sunflower oil or ghee
4 green cardamom pods, smashed with the side of a knife
2 bay leaves
2 black cardamom pods, smashed with the side of a knife
1 large cinnamon stick
1 tsp. cumin seeds
5 large shallots, thinly sliced
1¼ cup frozen peas
1 large carrot, peeled and coarsely grated
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. garam masala
1¼ cup coarsely chopped dried figs
¼ cup coarsely chopped dried cherries
Lime achaar (South Asian pickle), for serving

For the raita:

1¾ cup plain Greek yogurt
1 tart green apple, such as Granny Smith, coarsely grated (¾ cup)
3–4 Tbsp. whole milk
2 Tbsp. finely chopped mint leaves
1 tsp. sugar
½ tsp. cumin seeds, toasted and crushed
½ tsp. kosher salt or chaat masala

Instructions

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Stir in the rice and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is just tender but still toothsome, 3–4 minutes. In a large fine-mesh sieve, drain the rice, discarding the cooking liquid. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 325ºF. To a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the sunflower oil, green cardamom, bay leaves, black cardamom, cinnamon, and cumin seeds. Fry the spices, stirring frequently, just until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are golden brown and soft, 8–10 minutes. Stir in the peas and carrot, the remaining salt, and the black pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in the reserved rice, the figs, and cherries, cover the pan tightly with a lid or foil, then immediately transfer to the oven and bake until the rice is cooked through, 30–35 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the raita: In a small bowl, stir together the yogurt, apple, 3 tablespoons milk, the mint, sugar, cumin, and salt. If the mixture is very thick, stir in the remaining tablespoon of milk, then set aside.
Using a large serving spoon or fork, fluff the rice. Serve hot, with achaar and the raita on the side.

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