Easter | Saveur

Persian Cantaloupe Drink

Farideh Sadeghin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:36 +0000

Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

SAVEUR contributing editor Farideh Sadeghin got the recipe for this refreshing melon drink from her Iranian-born father, who makes it by grating fresh cantaloupe and combining it with water, sugar, and mint. You can also add a little gin for a cooling summer cocktail.

Featured in “Chasing the Perfect Persian Rice.”

Yield: 6 cups

Time: 5 minutes

1 cantaloupe (about 3 lb.)
¼ cup sugar, plus more to taste
Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish

Instructions

Peel the cantaloupe, then halve it and scoop out and discard the seeds. Cut each cantaloupe half into two pieces and coarsely grate them into a large bowl. Stir in the sugar and 3½ cups of water, then taste and add more sugar if necessary. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes.
Serve in cups over ice, garnished with mint.

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Butter Lettuce and Orange Salad with Toasted Pistachios

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:16 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

Navel oranges do double duty in this simple green salad: they’re cut into segments, and the resulting juice is used in the rich, tangy crème fraîche dressing. Tender butter lettuce leaves, earthy toasted pistachios, and grassy fresh chives round out the easy side dish.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 5 minutes

2 small heads butter lettuce, cored and leaves torn into large pieces
2 navel oranges, peel and pith removed and flesh segmented, juice reserved
½ cup shelled pistachios, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped
½ cup crème fraîche
¼ cup finely chopped chives, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large bowl, add the lettuce, orange segments, and pistachios. In a medium bowl or liquid measuring up, whisk together the crème fraîche, 3 tablespoons of the chives, and the reserved orange juice. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss to combine. Garnish with the remaining chives and serve immediately.

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Cucumber Gin Cooler

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:39 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Tyna Hoang. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Tyna Hoang

This refreshing update on the classic gin and tonic is an easy sipper, thanks to summery cucumber slices and plenty of lime juice. You can use any gin you have on hand, but we’re partial to Hendrick’s, which has a slight cucumber flavor, for this cooler. A note on the cucumber slices: it may be tempting to nibble them out of your drink right away, but try to resist the urge. After several minutes’ contact with the lime juice, gin, and tonic water (about as long as it takes to finish the cocktail), they pickle ever so slightly, taking on a lovely crisp flavor.

Yield: Makes 4 cocktails

Time: 5 minutes

8 oz. gin
8 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from about 4 limes)
½ cup thinly sliced Persian or Kirby cucumber, scrubbed but not peeled
Tonic water
Lime wedges, for garnish

Instructions

To a cocktail shaker filled halfway with ice, add the gin, lime juice, and cucumber slices. Shake vigorously for 1–2 minutes, then strain into four ice-filled glasses, making sure the cucumber slices are evenly distributed. Top each glass with tonic water and garnish with a lime wedge.

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Za’atar Dip

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:34 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

The Middle Eastern spice blend za’atar (which combines sumac, oregano, sesame, hyssop, and other spices) flavors this simple cilantro-and-garlic dip. It’s ideal served alongside roasted meats, or slathered on fresh-baked pita.

Featured in “Season of Rejoicing: Celebrating Sukkot in Crown Heights” by Katie Robbins.

Yield: 8–10

Time: 5 minutes

½ cup olive oil
3 Tbsp. za’atar
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 bunch cilantro, leaves and tender stems
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a food processor, blend together the oil, za’atar, garlic, and cilantro. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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Grilled Lamb Chops with Tzatziki

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:27 +0000

Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Maggie Ruggiero • Prop Styling: Paige Hicks. Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Maggie Ruggiero • Prop Styling: Paige Hicks

In this classic Greek pairing, dill is used two ways: first in a garlicky marinade for the lamb, and then in a cooling, brightly flavored yogurt sauce. While we’re partial to fresh dill here, you can also use its dried counterpart. Either way, serve these juicy grilled lamb chops with a simple green salad.

Yield: 2

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

Ingredients

For the tzatziki:

¾ cup plain, whole-milk Greek yogurt
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill, or 1 tsp. dried dill
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped (½ cup)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lamb:

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling the grill
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill, or 1 tsp. dried dill
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
½ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Four 1-in.-thick lamb loin chops (about 1 lb.)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

Make the tzatziki: In a medium bowl, stir together the yogurt, lemon juice, dill, garlic, and cucumber. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1–48 hours.
Meanwhile, marinate the lamb: In a large baking dish, add the oil, dill, lemon juice, chile flakes, and garlic. Season the lamb chops to taste with salt and black pepper, then add to the marinade and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to marinate at room temperature for 1 hour.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. (Alternatively, heat an oiled grill pan over medium-high.) Grill the lamb, turning occasionally, until done to taste, 4–6 minutes for medium-rare. (If using a grill pan, cook, turning occasionally, for 6–7 minutes for medium-rare.) Transfer to a platter and allow to rest for 5 minutes. Serve with the tzatziki.

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Torrijas (Spanish ‘French’ Toast)

Benjamin Kemper — Fri, 26 Mar 2021 23:04:31 +0000

Photo: Andrew Bui • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Andrew Bui • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Though traditionally deep-fried in olive oil, torrijas—Spain’s quintessential Holy Week dessert that falls somewhere between French toast and bread pudding—are subtler and less greasy when baked, as this knockout recipe from Madrid’s Panem bakery goes to show. Challah or good white sandwich bread may be substituted for the brioche. If you own a kitchen torch, you can use it in lieu of the broiler in step 5 to brûlée the bread on the top and sides. Panem doesn’t top its torrijas with cinnamon sugar, but the flavor combination is so classic that it felt like heresy to exclude it completely. Torrijas will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for three days, though they lose their sugary crunch after a day or so. The bread slices may be halved into rectangles in step 2 for smaller servings.

Featured in “Torrijas Are Spanish ‘French’ Toast—With a Few Tantalizing Twists,” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 6

Time: 30 hours

1 cup heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
1 cup sugar, divided
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
6 large egg yolks
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped (pod reserved for another use)
Six 1½-in.-thick day-old brioche slices, crusts removed (about 11 oz.)
Cinnamon sugar, for dusting (optional)-sugar for dusting, optional

Instructions

In a large bowl, whisk together the cream, milk, ⅓ cup of the sugar, the lemon zest, egg yolks, and vanilla bean seeds. Cover and refrigerate to infuse for 6–24 hours.
Cut the bread into six 4-inch squares, then arrange in a single layer in a medium baking dish. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain the custard mixture evenly over the bread. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly soaked, about 24 hours.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350ºF. Place a large wire rack over a few layers of paper towels. Using a spatula, transfer the bread slices to the rack to dry slightly, about 30 minutes. (Discard any remaining liquid or reserve for another use.)
Place the wire rack with the bread over a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the slices are dry at the edges but still pale, 8–12 minutes. Set aside until cool.
Position a rack in the top third of the oven and preheat the broiler. Sprinkle the remaining ⅔ cup of sugar evenly over the bread slices. Broil, rotating the baking sheet halfway through cooking (and checking the toasts every minute or so to prevent burning), until the tops are amber in color, 3–5 minutes.
Transfer to a platter, dust with cinnamon sugar if desired, and serve warm, cold, or at room temperature.

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Billionaire’s Bacon

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:53:37 +0000

Maura McEvoy

In an ode to bacon titled “The Best Food in the World” (March 2005), Colman Andrews, one of SAVEUR’s founding editors, boldly proclaimed, “A proper serving of bacon is six slices.” His first encounter with this brown-sugar-coated version occurred at one of our staff holiday parties, catered by the now-closed Manhattan restaurant Mortimer’s. “A big platter of the bacon, frequently replenished, was in the dining room,” Andrews recalls. “It was so popular that you had to wait in line to grab a few pieces.”

Yield: 8–10

Time: 25 minutes

1 lb. thick-sliced bacon
1½ cups light-brown sugar, tightly packed
Vegetable oil, for greasing

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Separate the strips of bacon and blot dry with paper towels. Pour the sugar into a wide baking dish, and spread out into an even layer. Dredge the bacon in the sugar, coating both sides of each strip, before laying the strips on a wire rack set atop a large rimmed baking sheet.
Cook for 8 minutes, then rotate the baking sheet and use tongs to flip the bacon. Continue cooking until the bacon is evenly browned and lacquered, about 8 minutes more. Use tongs to transfer the bacon, in a single layer, to a second large rimmed baking sheet that has been lightly greased with oil, and let cool to room temperature before serving.

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Lidnivikis

Jenn Louis — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:44:51 +0000

Photo: Linda Xiao • Food Styling: Jessie Yuchen. Photo: Linda Xiao • Food Styling: Jessie Yuchen

These old school Polish pancakes are lighter, fluffier, and cheesier than the batter-based standard. The batter—really more of a dough made from cottage cheese and egg barely bound together with flour—is sliced into rounds and baked, rather than cooked in a pan. Be careful not to overwork it when adding flour; the pancakes should be fall-apart tender.

Featured in: “Old School Pancakes So Good They Don’t Need a Pan.”

Yield: 5–7

Time: 45 minutes

2 cups cottage cheese (about 1 lb.)
3 large eggs
1½ cups (7½ oz.) all-purpose flour, divided
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Fresh dill and sour cream, for serving

Instructions

Heat the oven to 350°F; position two of the racks in the top and bottom third of the oven. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
In a large bowl, stir together the cottage cheese and eggs. Stir in 1 cup of the flour, the baking powder, and salt. Lay a second large rectangle of parchment paper on a clean work surface and sprinkle the remaining ½ cup flour lengthwise down the center. Pour the batter over the flour in an approximately 12- by 2½-inch log, then lift the long sides of the parchment to roll the log back and forth over the parchment until it’s evenly coated in flour (the dough will be very wet and soft). Using a knife, cut the log crosswise into ten 1½-inch thick rounds; using the side of your knife for help, quickly transfer the rounds to the lined baking sheets cut-side-up and spaced at least 2 inches apart.
Bake, rotating the baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through cooking, until lightly browned on the bottom and set in the middle, about 20 minutes.
Using a thin, offset spatula, transfer the pancakes to a plate or serving platter. Pinch off small knobs of butter with your fingers and place over each pancake. Sprinkle with dill and serve hot with sour cream on the side.

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Borůvkový Koláč (Blueberry-Poppy Seed Squares)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:07 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Floral poppy seeds perfume tart fresh blueberries in the filling for borůvkový koláč, a traditional Czech dessert. The seeds must be ground to release their flavor; buy them pre-ground from Kalustyan’s, or grind whole seeds as finely as possible using a spice grinder, blender, meat grinder, or mortar and pestle. Poppy seeds turn rancid quickly, so buy them from a source with reliable turnover, then store whatever’s left in the freezer. When lining the pan with dough in step 1, it may be helpful to use the bottom of a water glass to press it into an even layer.

Featured in “Flower Power,” by Gabriella Gershenson.

Yield: 12

Time: 2 hours

20 Tbsp. softened unsalted butter, divided, plus more for greasing
1½ cups sugar, divided
3 cups all-purpose flour, divided, plus more for dusting
¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided
¼ tsp. vanilla extract
4 cups blueberries, fresh or frozen, divided
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
1½ cups ground poppy seeds (see headnote)
½ cup heavy cream

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Butter and flour a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan. Using a stand or handheld mixer on medium-high speed, beat 16 tablespoons of the butter and ½ cup of the sugar until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add 2½ cups of the flour and ½ teaspoon of the salt and beat until just combined. Press the dough (see headnote) evenly into the bottom and halfway up the sides of the prepared pan. Chill for 20 minutes, then bake until lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.
Meanwhile, make the streusel: In a small bowl, use a fork to combine ¼ cup of the sugar; the vanilla; and remaining butter, flour, and salt until coarse crumbs form.
In a medium pot set over medium-high heat, stir together 3 cups of the berries, the lemon juice, cinnamon, and remaining ¾ cup of sugar. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the berries burst, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining berries. Set aside.
In a small bowl, stir together the poppy seeds and cream, then use a silicone spatula to spread evenly over the crust. Top with the blueberry mixture, spreading it to the edges, then sprinkle with the streusel. Bake until bubbly and lightly browned, about 40 minutes. Allow to cool completely before cutting into squares.

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Eggless Pasta Frittata with Anchovies, Raisins, and Pine Nuts

Katie Parla — Mon, 06 Mar 2023 16:29:54 +0000

Photography by Benjamin Kemper

Welcome to Parla’s Pastas, a column by the Rome-based, New York Times best-selling cookbook author Katie Parla with traditional and inspired recipes from Italy’s 20 regions. Get ready for a carb-driven journey through the trattorias of Rome, the kitchens of Sicily (her ancestral homeland), rural Campania, and beyond. Fire up a pot of water, and andiamo!

Scammaro (SCA-ma-ro) is the anti-frittata frittata: crispy, crackly, and conspicuously eggless. An old-school staple of Lenten tables in southern Italy, this frittata di scammaro recipe makes a simple—and phenomenally flavorful—pantry-based meal year round.

Featured in “The Crispy, Crackly Pasta Dish Neapolitans Make Every Lent,” by Katie Parla.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 45 minutes

¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 garlic cloves, lightly smashed with the side of a knife
3 anchovy fillets, rinsed
1 large ripe tomato, grated, or ¼ cup good-quality tomato purée (such as Mutti)
¼ cup Gaeta olives, rinsed, pitted, and roughly chopped, or substitute Kalamata olives
3 Tbsp. raisins, soaked in hot water for 15 minutes and drained
3 Tbsp. salt-cured capers, soaked in cold water for 5 minutes, drained, and rinsed
2 Tbsp. pine nuts
2 tsp. coarsely chopped parsley leaves, plus more for garnish
Sea salt
12 oz. vermicelli pasta, or thin spaghetti

Instructions

To a 10-inch nonstick skillet set over medium heat, add 3 tablespoons of the oil and the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and golden, about 3 minutes. Add the anchovies and cook until they dissolve, about 2 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-high, add the tomato, and cook until reduced slightly, about 4 minutes. Add the olives, raisins, capers, and pine nuts and cook for 2 minutes more. Turn off the heat and discard the garlic.
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until just beyond al dente, about 4 minutes (use the recommended cooking time on the package).
Drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Add the tomato mixture and parsley and toss well to combine. (Do not clean the skillet.)
To the empty skillet, add 3 more tablespoons of the oil and turn the heat to high. When it’s shimmering and hot, add the pasta. Use a spoon to flatten the top. Cook, undisturbed, for 2 minutes, then turn the heat to medium and continue to cook until the pasta has set and the bottom is deep golden brown, about 9 minutes more.
Place a plate over the frittata and flip the pan upside down. Slide it back into the pan, uncooked-side down, and pour the remaining tablespoon of oil around the edge of the frittata. Brown on the other side, about 12 minutes more.
To serve, slide the frittata onto a plate and garnish with parsley. Allow to cool slightly before cutting into wedges.

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Veal and Pearl Onion B’stilla

Suzanne Zeidy — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:30 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

B’stilla, a North African meat pie, is traditionally made with poultry. Cookbook author Suzanne Zeidy‘s take includes veal and caramelized pearl onions. When ordering the veal for this recipe, have your butcher remove the bone.

Featured in: “Lunch at the Desert’s Edge“

Yield: 8

Time: 3 hours

3 Tbsp. olive oil
10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, divided, plus more as needed
1 lb. pearl onions, peeled
2¾-lb. boneless stew veal, cut into 2-in. chunks, patted dry with paper towels
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1 tsp. ground allspice
1 serrano chile, seeded, and finely chopped
4 cups veal or chicken stock
16 phyllo dough sheets (8 oz.), thawed

Instructions

To a large pot set over medium heat, add the olive oil, 2 tablespoons of the butter, and the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and deep golden brown, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl and set aside. To the empty pot, add the veal and turn the heat to medium-high. Season with salt and black pepper to taste and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned all over, about 12 minutes.
Add the nutmeg, allspice, and chile and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the stock and reserved onions and turn the heat to high. When the liquid boils, turn the heat to medium-low and cook, partially covered and stirring occasionally, until the veal flakes when poked with a fork, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Remove from the heat; when cool enough to handle, coarsely shred the meat, adding it back to the sauce; set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Using some of the remaining butter, grease a 9-inch springform pan. Line the bottom of the pan with 1 phyllo sheet, letting the excess creep up the sides, then brush with melted butter. Repeat with 7 more phyllo sheets, brushing butter between the layers and rotating each new sheet one quarter turn so that the crust overlaps decoratively.
Using a silicone spatula, spread the veal mixture over the crust in an even layer. Fold the overhanging phyllo down onto the meat and brush with more butter. Drape 1 phyllo sheet on top of the pie, brush with butter, then top perpendicularly with another sheet. Repeat with the remaining sheets, brushing each new layer with butter, then tuck the phyllo corners down the sides of the pan. Brush all over with butter and bake until crackly and golden, about 40 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool for at least 10 minutes before unmolding. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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