Issue 119 | Saveur

Stuffed Celery

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:22:00 +0000

Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

This old-school appetizer from Los Angeles’ storied Musso & Frank Grill—now more than a century old—turns humble celery into a creamy, elegant hors d’oeuvre. While the restaurant peels the celery ribs before stuffing them, the dish is just as satisfying without that extra step.

Featured in the April 2009 issue.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

6 oz. blue cheese, preferably Roquefort, crumbled (about ¾ cup), at room temperature
6 oz. cream cheese, cut into 1-in. cubes, at room temperature
¼ cup sour cream
½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
⅛ tsp. hot sauce, preferably Tabasco
Green leaf lettuce, for garnish
5 celery ribs, trimmed and halved crosswise into sticks
Paprika, for garnish
5 pitted black California olives, halved, for garnish
Curly parsley sprigs, for garnish

Instructions

To a food processor, add the blue cheese, cream cheese, sour cream, Worcestershire, and hot sauce and pulse until smooth. Scrape the cheese mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a small piping tip or a quart-size zip-top bag, seal, and refrigerate to firm up, at least 30 minutes.
On a platter, arrange the lettuce leaves in an even layer and, if desired, top with 1 cup of crushed ice. Arrange the celery sticks, concave side up, on top. Retrieve the cheese mixture from the fridge, snip off a lower corner if using a zip-top bag, and pipe about 2 tablespoons of the cheese mixture into each celery stick. Sprinkle with paprika, garnish each celery stick with an olive half and a parsley sprig, and serve immediately.

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Asparagus with Citrus and Oregano

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:25 +0000

Asparagus is quick-steamed in the microwave until tender and —yes, microwaved—until tender and Kat Craddock

In this recipe from New York chef Andrew Carmellini’s cookbook Urban Italian, he recommends microwaving asparagus in a tightly covered dish with a little water and olive oil; it’s a fast and easy way to steam the vegetable while preserving its color, texture, and flavor.

Equipment

Yield: serves 4

Time: 25 minutes

2 oranges, preferably navel
¹⁄₄ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
¹⁄₂ tsp. dried oregano
2 scallions, finely chopped
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. asparagus (about 16 large stalks), trimmed

Instructions

Zest one of the oranges; set aside. Slice off the ends of each orange. Working with one orange at a time, set an orange on end; using a small knife, slice off and discard the peel and the white pith. Holding the orange in your hand, cut the orange segments away from their membranes. Place segments in a bowl and set aside. Over a separate bowl, squeeze the remaining orange pulp to extract any remaining juice. Repeat with the remaining orange. Whisk 4 tablespoons oil, lemon juice, oregano, and scallions into the orange juice, and season with salt and pepper. Set the dressing aside.
Transfer the asparagus to a 9-by-13-inch microwavable baking dish. Sprinkle with reserved orange zest and drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons oil and 1⁄4 cup water. Cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap and microwave on high heat for 2 minutes. Rotate the dish and microwave until the asparagus is just tender, about 2 minutes more. Uncover and drain off the cooking liquid. Toss the asparagus with the reserved citrus dressing, and season with salt. Top with the orange segments. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

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Shrimp and Grits

Organic — Tue, 06 Jan 2015 00:00:00 +0000

Coarse stone-ground grits lend texture and robust flavor to a classic, cheesy dish with sweet shrimp and smoky bacon. Get the recipe for Shrimp and Grits ». André Baranowski

Like the cooks at Crook’s Corner, the celebrated restaurant in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, we recommend using stone-ground grits for this shrimp and grits recipe. They take more time to cook, but their flavor and texture are richer than instant grits. For quicker cooking, let the grits soak in water in the refrigerator overnight.

What You Will Need

Yield: serves 4

1 cup white or yellow stone-ground grits
³⁄₄ cup grated cheddar
¹⁄₄ cup parmesan
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
Kosher salt
2 tbsp. canola oil
4 slices bacon, chopped
1 lb. medium shrimp (about 30), peeled
Freshly ground black pepper
6 button mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
¹⁄₂ cup chicken broth
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus 4 lemon wedges
¹⁄₂ tsp. hot sauce, preferably Tabasco
4 scallions, thinly sliced

Instructions

In a 2-qt. saucepan, bring 4 cups water to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and whisk in grits. Cook, whisking frequently, until grits are tender and creamy, 30–40 minutes. (Whisk in more water for thinner grits.) Whisk in cheddar, parmesan, and 1 tbsp. butter and season with salt; cover and set aside.
Heat oil in a 12″ skillet over medium heat. Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a paper towel–lined plate; set aside. Reserve cooking fat in skillet.
Season shrimp with salt and pepper. Over medium-high heat, add shrimp to skillet and cook, turning once, until bright pink, about 2 minutes. Transfer shrimp to a plate with a slotted spoon. Lower heat to medium; add mushrooms to skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until golden, 1 minute. Raise heat to high, add chicken broth, and scrape bottom of skillet with a wooden spoon. Cook until broth reduces by half, 3 minutes. Return shrimp to skillet along with the lemon juice, remaining butter, and hot sauce and cook, stirring frequently, until sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Divide grits between 4 bowls; top each with shrimp and its sauce. Garnish each bowl with bacon, scallions, and lemon wedges.

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Canlis Salad

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:39:19 +0000

See the Recipe. Kurt E. Smith

This salad comes from the namesake Seattle restaurant.

Yield: serves 4

2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. dried thyme
4 slices country white bread, cut into 1/2" cubes
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 egg, at room temperature
¹⁄₄ cup fresh lemon juice
¹⁄₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¹⁄₂ lb. slab bacon, cut into 1/2" cubes
1 cup grated pecorino
1 cup mixed red and yellow grape tomatoes, halved
¹⁄₂ cup torn mint leaves
3 tbsp. oregano leaves
5 scallions, chopped
2 heads romaine, cored and cut crosswise into 1" strips

Instructions

Heat oven to 325°. Toss butter, oregano, thyme, bread, and garlic together in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring frequently, until croutons are golden, about 15 minutes. Set croutons aside to let cool.
Whisk together egg and lemon juice in a medium bowl. Slowly drizzle in oil, whisking constantly to make a smooth vinaigrette. Season with pepper; set aside.
In a 10″ skillet, bring 1 cup water to a boil. Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until water evaporates, 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and cook until bacon crisps, about 5 minutes; let cool. Toss bacon, reserved croutons, vinaigrette, and remaining ingredients in a large salad bowl and season with salt and pepper.

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Pan-Roasted Chicken with Madeira Sauce

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:52 +0000

Brining the chicken for this dish (from New York City’s Gramercy Tavern) before cooking yields remarkably tender and savory meat.

Yield: serves 4

Ingredients

For the Chicken

2 cups packed light brown sugar
1 ¹⁄₂ cups kosher salt
1 cup white wine vinegar
2 tbsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp. mustard seeds
3 cloves garlic, smashed
3 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
6 cups ice cubes (about 1 lb.)
2 boneless skin-on chicken breasts
2 boneless skin-on chicken thighs

For the Sauce

4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
4 whole chicken wings
10 whole black peppercorns
5 shallots, finely chopped
5 sprigs thyme
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
¹⁄₂ cup madeira
2 cups chicken broth

Instructions

Brine the chicken: Bring sugar, salt, vinegar, pepper, mustard seeds, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and 12 cups water to a boil in an 8-qt. pot. Remove from heat; let cool for 10 minutes. Add ice and refrigerate brine until well chilled. Submerge the chicken pieces in the brine, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
Make the sauce: Heat 2 tbsp. oil in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken wings in a single layer and cook, flipping once with tongs, until browned, about 8 minutes. Add the peppercorns, shallots, 2 sprigs thyme, and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until shallots are soft, about 2 minutes. Add the madeira and cook until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the broth, bring to a boil, and reduce heat to medium-low; simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid has reduced to ¼ cup, about 25 minutes. Skim fat from the sauce and strain sauce through a fine sieve into a 1-qt. saucepan; discard solids. Set sauce aside and cover to keep warm.
Meanwhile, heat oven to 425°. Remove chicken pieces from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Heat remaining oil in a 12″ ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken skin side down and cook until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Add the remaining thyme sprigs and transfer the skillet to the oven. Cook until chicken is almost cooked through, about 15 minutes. Using tongs, flip chicken and cook until skin is crisp, 3 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate and let rest for 5 minutes. To serve, spoon some of the sauce onto 4 plates. Halve thighs and cut breasts into 1″ slices and fan out on plates. Spoon remaining sauce over top of chicken. Serve with sautéed carrots, if you like.

Video: How to Pan-Roast a Chicken

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Country Captain

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:42:41 +0000

Curried chicken gets dressed up with plenty of rich vegetables, spices, and a crunchy peanut garnish. André Baranowski

This curried chicken casserole (from Atlanta’s Watershed) is a Southern Lowcountry classic whose name harks back to the days when ships’ captains in port cities like Charleston, South Carolina, and Savannah, Georgia, traded in spices acquired during their travels abroad.

Yield: serves 4

1 (3–4-lb.) chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1 tsp. dried thyme
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¹⁄₄ cup canola oil
6 slices bacon, chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 ribs celery, chopped
2 green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and chopped
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 (28-oz.) can whole peeled tomatoes, chopped, (3/4 cup tomato juice reserved)
3 tbsp. curry powder
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
¹⁄₃ cup currants, plus more for garnish
2 bay leaves
2 cups steamed white rice, for serving
Peanuts, for garnish

Instructions

Season chicken with thyme, salt, and pepper. Heat oil in a 5-qt. dutch oven over high heat. Add chicken, skin side down, and cook, turning once, until golden brown, about 12 minutes. Using tongs, transfer chicken to a plate and set aside.
Discard oil and return dutch oven to medium heat. Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a paper towel-lined plate; set aside. Add the garlic, celery, peppers, and onions to the dutch oven and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes and their juice and cook, stirring frequently, until the juice thickens, about 10 minutes. Stir in the curry powder, butter, currants, and bay leaves and season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until it thickens into a chunky sauce, 30 minutes.
Heat oven to 325˚. Add the reserved chicken to the dutch oven, nestling it into the thick curry sauce; spoon some of the sauce over chicken. Cover and cook until chicken is very tender, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Spoon sauce over chicken, serve with rice, and garnish with bacon, currants, and peanuts.

Pairing note The fruity, mildly tannic notes of the 2006 Magito Cabernet Sauvignon Highlands Blend from Sonoma County nicely complement the curry in this dish.

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Black Bass with Chickpeas, Clams, and Chorizo

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:25 +0000

See the Recipe. Landon Nordeman

Serve this hearty main course (from Brooklyn’s Marlow & Sons) with a loaf of crusty bread to soak up the chorizo-spiked broth.

Yield: serves 4

7 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 sprigs thyme
1 onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 chile de arbol
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 oz. fresh chorizo, removed from casing and crumbled
12 littleneck clams, scrubbed and rinsed
2 cups roughly chopped escarole
¹⁄₂ cup packed flat-leaf parsley leaves
4 (5-6-oz.) black sea bass filets
2 tbsp. butter

Instructions

Heat 2 tbsp. oil in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic, thyme, onions, and chile and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 12 minutes. Add chickpeas and 4 cups water; bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer to let the flavors meld, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set chickpea broth aside.
Heat 1 tbsp. oil in a 10″ skillet over medium-high heat. Add chorizo and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chorizo to paper towels.
Bring chickpea broth to a boil, add clams, and cook, covered, until clams open, about 6 minutes. Stir in escarole, parsley, and reserved chorizo; set aside and cover to keep warm.
Season fish with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tbsp. oil in a 12″ nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Transfer 2 filets to skillet skin side down and press gently with a metal spatula until fish stops sizzling. Reduce heat to medium and cook until skin is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip fish and hold it down gently with the spatula while pouring off and discarding oil. Add 1 tbsp. butter to skillet. Using a spoon, baste fish with butter until fish is cooked through, about 2 more minutes. Repeat with remaining filets. Divide chickpea broth between 4 bowls and top each with a fish filet.

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Crostini with Black-Eyed Peas, Radicchio, and Raisins

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:39:41 +0000

The appeal of this hors d'oeuvre, which prominently features luck-bearing black-eyed peas, comes from the bright contrast of earthy and tangy flavors. Landon Nordeman

The appeal of this first course (from Brooklyn’s Marlow & Sons) comes from the bright contrast of earthy and tangy flavors.

Yield: serves 4

¹⁄₂ cup plus 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
¹⁄₂ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
2 cloves garlic (1 finely chopped, 1 smashed)
1 bay leaf
1 (15-oz.) can black-eyed peas, 1 cup liquid reserved
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¹⁄₂ cup white wine
¹⁄₄ cup golden raisins
1 head radicchio, sliced lengthwise into ½" wedges
1 tbsp. sherry vinegar
8 slices crusty bread, such as ciabatta

Instructions

Heat 5 tbsp. oil in a 2-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tsp. thyme, the chile flakes, chopped garlic, and bay leaf and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 2 minutes. Add black-eyed peas and reserved liquid and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until the flavors have melded, 10 minutes. Discard bay leaf and transfer the pea mixture to a blender; purée until smooth. (Sprinkle in a little water if mixture is too dry.) Season with salt and pepper; transfer to a bowl and set pea purée aside.
Meanwhile, add wine and raisins to a 1-qt. saucepan and bring to a boil; set aside to let raisins plump. Heat 3 tbsp. oil in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat. Add radicchio, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until radicchio is wilted and golden brown, about 8 minutes. Toss with vinegar and set radicchio aside.
Heat oven to 450°. Brush bread with remaining oil and transfer to a baking sheet. Toast bread, flipping once, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Rub toast with remaining garlic clove. To serve, spread pea purée over each toast, top with radicchio and raisins, and sprinkle with remaining thyme.

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Salmon Croquettes

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:42:08 +0000

These croquettes from Atlanta's Watershed are all meat with minimal breading. It's important to chill them thoroughly—ideally overnight—so they hold together in the hot skillet. Get the recipe for Salmon Croquettes ». Matt Taylor-Gross

These croquettes from Atlanta’s Watershed are all meat with minimal breading. It’s important to chill them thoroughly—ideally overnight—so they hold together in the hot skillet.

Yield: serves 6

¹⁄₂ cup white wine
3 tbsp. Old Bay seasoning
1 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt
1 (1-lb.) boneless salmon filet
1 ¹⁄₂ cups dried bread crumbs
3 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
4 scallions, finely chopped
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 eggs, beaten
Juice of 1 lemon
Canola oil for frying

Instructions

Combine 4 cups water, wine, 2 tbsp. Old Bay, and 1 tbsp. salt in a 10″ skillet. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add salmon skin side down, turn off the heat, cover, and let salmon cook gently in the hot liquid for 10 minutes. Using a metal spatula, transfer salmon to a plate skin side up and let cool. (The salmon should still be rare in the middle.)
Peel off and discard salmon skin. Break salmon into small pieces and places pieces in a large bowl. Add the remaining Old Bay and salt along with the bread crumbs, butter, scallions, onions, eggs, and lemon juice. Stir ingredients until just combined and refrigerate for 1⁄2 hour.
Spoon some of the salmon mixture into a 1⁄3-cup measuring cup and gently pack it with your hands. Unmold and press gently with your hand to form a 2″-wide patty; transfer patty to a parchment paper–lined baking sheet. Repeat to make 12 patties. Refrigerate patties for at least 1 hour or overnight.
Add oil to a 12″ cast-iron skillet until it reaches a depth of 1⁄2″. Heat over medium-high heat until oil registers 325° on a deep-fry thermometer. Using a metal spatula, gently transfer half of the patties to skillet and cook, flipping once with the spatula, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer croquettes to a paper towel–lined plate and repeat with remaining patties.

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Pork with Mole Negro Sauce

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:31:12 +0000

The sharp cheddar here belongs with a smooth oatmeal stout with a hint of hoppy bitterness. See the recipe for Pork with Mole Negro Sauce » Back to 10 Recipes to Pair with Stouts ». Andr¿ Baranowski

You should be able to find the ingredients for this Oaxacan dish (from Chicago’s Topolobampo) at most Mexican groceries.

Yield: serves 6

Ingredients

For the Pork

3 canned chipotles in adobo, 3 tbsp. adobo sauce reserved
¹⁄₂ cup corn oil
¹⁄₂ cup apple cider vinegar
2 tbsp. ancho chile powder
1 tbsp. dried oregano
1 tbsp. honey
3 cloves garlic
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 lb. pork loin, trimmed

For the Mole

1 large tomatillo, stemmed, rinsed, and quartered
1 small tomato, cored and halved
1 small yellow onion, roughly chopped
1 cup corn oil
6 dried pasilla chiles, stemmed and seeded
¹⁄₂ ripe plantain or banana, cut into 1⁄2" cubes
¹⁄₄ cup peanuts, plus more crushed for garnish
¹⁄₄ cup sesame seeds
¹⁄₄ cup raisins
2 ¹⁄₂ cups chicken broth
2 oz. Mexican chocolate, chopped
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. oregano
¹⁄₂ tsp. ground canela or cinnamon
1 slice white sandwich bread, toasted and crumbled
Kosher salt, to taste
Grated piloncillo or brown sugar, to taste
6 sprigs cilantro, for garnish

Instructions

Marinate the pork: In a blender, purée the chipotles with their reserved sauce, oil, vinegar, chile powder, oregano, honey, and garlic until smooth and season with salt and pepper. Put pork into a 1-gallon resealable plastic bag and pour sauce over pork. Refrigerate overnight.
Make the mole: Heat oven to broil and position a rack 10″ from the heating element. Toss tomatillos, tomatoes, and onions with 2 tbsp. oil in a bowl and transfer to an aluminum foil–lined baking sheet; broil, turning once with tongs, until soft and well browned, about 15 minutes. Transfer charred vegetables to a large bowl; set aside. Heat oven to 400˚. Transfer chiles to the aluminum foil–lined baking sheet and toast, turning once, until dark and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer toasted chiles to large bowl and cover with 3 cups boiling water; set aside to let soften for 15 minutes. Drain chiles, reserving 1⁄2 cup soaking liquid; set aside.
Heat 3⁄4 cup oil in a 3-qt. high-sided skillet over medium-high heat. Add plantains (or bananas) and cook, stirring frequently, until browned, 2 minutes. Add peanuts and sesame seeds and cook, stirring frequently, until browned, 3 minutes. Add the raisins, the tomatillo mixture, and the chiles with the reserved soaking liquid, along with the chicken broth, chocolate, oregano, canela, and bread; bring the mixture to a boil and remove from heat. Working in batches, purée the chile mixture in a blender to make a smooth mole.
Heat remaining oil in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Add mole and cook, whisking frequently, until it thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and piloncillo; set mole aside and keep warm.
Meanwhile, heat oven to 400˚. Remove pork from adobo, season lightly with salt, and transfer to a rack set in a roasting pan. Discard adobo. Cook the pork, flipping once, until browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted into center of pork reads 150˚, about 45 minutes. Transfer pork to a platter; let rest for 10 minutes. Slice pork into 1⁄2″-thick medallions. Divide mole between 6 plates. Arrange pork over mole and garnish with peanuts and cilantro.

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Flat Iron Steak with Herb Butter

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:34:06 +0000

These juicy steaks are simple to prepare, needing only a quick sear in a hot iron pan. To simplify, prepare the herb butter in advance. Get the recipe for Flat Iron Steak with Herb Butter ». André Baranowski

The herb butter for these steaks (from Brooklyn’s Marlow & Sons) is an adaptation of a classic accompaniment called maitre d’ butter.

Yield: serves 4

4 (8-oz.) flat iron steaks
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
8 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
3 tbsp. roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
3 tbsp. roughly chopped chives
1 shallot, finely chopped
4 tbsp. canola oil

Instructions

Rub steaks generously with salt and pepper and set aside to let rest for at least 30 minutes at room temperature. Combine the butter, parsley, chives, and shallots with a fork in a medium bowl. Season lightly with salt and pepper; cover with plastic wrap and set aside.
Heat 2 tbsp. oil in a 12″ cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 steaks and cook, flipping once, until seared and medium rare, about 8 minutes. Transfer steaks to a plate and let rest for 5 minutes. Repeat with remaining oil and steaks. To serve, smear each steak with 2 tbsp. of the herb butter.

Pairing note The peppery 2005 syrah from Napa Valley’s Kuleto Estate ($45) is big and earthy, with plenty of acidity and deep blackberry flavors that stand up to this steak.

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