German | Saveur

Käsespätzle (Cheese Spaetzle)

SAVEUR Editors — Tue, 15 Jan 2019 19:10:30 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

This satisfying German pasta dish is adapted from the one served at Spatenhaus an der Oper in Munich. The trick to transforming the soft dough into delicate, tender dumplings is well-aerated eggs and and mastering the delivery of batter into the boiling water. Consider picking up an easy-to-use spätzle-maker, or use a bowl scraper and a colander or a potato ricer to extrude the batter directly into the pot.

Featured In “Learn to Make Spätzle: Germany’s Favorite Comfort Food” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

1¾ cups plus 2 Tbsp. (9 oz.) all-purpose flour, divided
1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
1 large yellow onion (7 oz.), half thinly sliced, half finely chopped
1 cup vegetable oil
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
5 large eggs
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup (4 oz.) grated Bavarian bergkäse cheese or Gruyère
2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons of the flour and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Add the sliced half of the onion and toss to coat.
To a medium skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the sliced onions (leave the excess flour behind) and fry, using tongs to stir occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, 9–10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside. Transfer the oil in the skillet to a heatproof bowl and cool completely before discarding. Wipe the skillet clean with paper towels and set aside.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.
Meanwhile, return the skillet to the stove and place over medium heat. Add the butter. When it has melted and the foam begins to subside, add the chopped half of the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent but not yet browned, 8–9 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until very frothy. Add the nutmeg and the remaining flour and salt and whisk to a uniform, thick batter. Continue whisking until bubbles slowly rise to the surface when you stop whisking, about 2 minutes more.
When the water begins to boil, place a spätzle maker or a heat-resistant colander with large holes over the pot. Pour the batter onto the spätzle maker or colander. Working quickly, use a bowl scraper or rubber spatula to force the all of the batter through the holes. Immediately stir the water gently to separate any stuck pieces. When the water returns to a boil, cook the spätzle for 2 minutes, then drain them and rinse well under cold water.
Return the large skillet with the chopped onions to the stove and place it over medium-high heat. When the onions begin to sizzle, add the spätzle and cheese. Stir until the spätzle is hot and the cheese is fully melted. Season to taste with salt, then transfer to a large bowl or four small plates. Top with the chives and reserved fried onions, sprinkle with black pepper, and serve immediately.

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Rotkohl (Braised Red Cabbage with Bacon)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:22:23 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Ursula Heinzelmann, author of our December 2007 feature story, “A Night in Berlin,” prepared this sweet-tart side dish as part of a holiday feast among family and friends. Rotkohl is a traditional accompaniment to venison, but it shines brightly alongside any hearty fall or winter braise. The secret to preserving the red cabbage’s deep purple hue is in keeping the pot covered while it cooks.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Voyage Series cast iron braiser here.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 1 hour 50 minutes

6 slices bacon, coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped
⅓ cup Port wine
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 large head red cabbage (about 3 lb.), cored and thinly sliced
2 cups chicken stock
¼ cup red currant jelly

Instructions

To a large, wide pot, add the bacon, set over medium high-heat, and cook, stirring frequently, until the fat has rendered and the bacon is just beginning to crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the sugar and continue cooking, stirring continuously, until the sugar has liquified, about 30 seconds. Stir in the onions, season lightly with salt and black pepper, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden and soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in the apple, turn the heat down to medium-low, cover, and cook until the apple is tender, 6–8 minutes.
Uncover the pot, stir in the Port, vinegar, and cabbage, then cover and cook until the cabbage is bright purple and slightly wilted, 5–7 minutes. Stir in the stock, season lightly with salt and black pepper, then turn the heat up to medium-high. Bring to a boil, turn the heat down to simmer, cover, and cook until the cabbage is tender but still bright purple, about 1¼ hours.
Uncover the pot, stir in red currant jelly, and season to taste with more salt and black pepper. Continue cooking until the jelly is fully melted and the cooking juices are glossy, 4–5 minutes more. Remove from heat and serve hot.

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Green Minestrone with Spinach Pesto

Josita Hartanto — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:37:44 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross. Matt Taylor-Gross

Chef Josita Hartanto, of Berlin’s vegan restaurant Lucky Leek, makes her minestrone with plenty of hearty vegetables, from kohlrabi and zucchini to leek and fennel; DIY cashew cream; and briny green olives. The soup is brightened with a freshly made spinach-basil pesto, which is stirred in just before serving.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

5 cups packed baby spinach (about 5 oz.)
2 cups packed basil leaves
5 Tbsp. pine nuts, lightly toasted
1 cup raw unsalted cashews
Kosher salt
1 cup ditalini pasta, cooked to al dente
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
½ cup thinly sliced shallots
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
2 cups finely chopped zucchini
1 cup finely chopped kohlrabi
1 cup thinly sliced leek
¾ cup finely chopped fennel
Freshly ground black pepper
4 cups vegetable stock
¼ cup frozen peas
6 large green olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
Toasted country bread slices

Instructions

Make the pesto: In a blender, purée the spinach, basil, pine nuts, and 3 tablespoons of the oil. Scrape into a bowl and set aside. Wash the blender.
Make the cashew cream: To the empty blender, add the cashews, salt to taste, and ¾ cup boiling water and let soak until the water comes to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Purée to a silky consistency; set aside.
While the cashews are soaking, make the soup: To a pot set over medium-high heat, add the shallots, garlic, and remaining oil and cook until softened, 5–7 minutes. Add the zucchini, kohlrabi, leek, and fennel, season with salt and black pepper, and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables have softened, about 6 minutes. Pour in the vegetable stock and turn the heat to high. When the liquid boils, turn the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the peas, olives, and reserved pasta and cook until warmed through, about 2 minutes more. Stir in the reserved pesto.
To serve, ladle the minestrone into bowls and accompany with toasts swirled with the cashew cream.

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German Potato Salad

James Beard — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:30:54 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jason Schreiber; Prop Styling by Summer Moore

Not a fan of mayonnaise? Then this bacony and vinegary German potato salad recipe is for you. Some versions of the classic recipe call for first sautéing onions in bacon fat, but we prefer them left raw so that their gentle crunch and allium heat retains a bit of pop against the fatty smoked pork and starchy potatoes. This recipe is adapted from one that first appeared in James Beard’s American Cookery.

Yield: serves 4-6

Time: 45 minutes

6–8 medium waxy potatoes
Kosher salt
12 slices thick bacon
1 large yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced
¼ cups plus 2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cups coarsely chopped fresh parsley leaves

Instructions

To a large pot, add the potatoes and enough generously salted cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook until the potatoes are tender when poked with a thin knife, 15–20 minutes.
Meanwhile, to a large skillet over medium heat, add the bacon and cook, turning occasionally, until crisp, 10–15 minutes. Remove from heat, transfer the bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate, and set the skillet aside, reserving the rendered bacon fat. When the bacon is cool enough to handle, crumble it into large pieces.
Drain the potatoes, discarding the cooking liquid. While still hot, cut the potatoes into 1-inch cubes, then transfer to a large, warm serving bowl. Add the bacon and onions and set aside.
Return the skillet of bacon fat to medium-high heat. Once the pan is hot, remove from heat and add the vinegar, scraping the bottom of the skillet with a wooden spoon to incorporate any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Season lightly with salt and black pepper, then pour the hot dressing over the potato-bacon-onion mixture; toss gently to combine. Season to taste with more salt and black pepper, garnish with parsley, and serve warm.

7 Perfect Potato Salad Recipes for the 4th of July

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jason Schreiber; Prop Styling by Summer Moore

With all due respect to mayo, we have a few other dressing ideas.

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Cider-Braised Red Cabbage

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:27:53 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross

Cider-braised cabbage, a common side dish in Germany, is both sweet and sour. It’s great paired with sauerbraten and pretzel dumplings. Browning the cabbage in batches adds more time to preparation but results in deeper flavors. Austrian chef Thomas Ferlesch of Werkstatt restaurant in Brooklyn uses a generous amount of fat—he prefers lard or duck fat for their richness—and dry red wine to round out the tart flavors of cranberry, vinegar, and apple cider.

Featured in: “Mimi Sheraton’s Lifelong Love of German Food.”

Yield: serves 10-12 people

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

¹⁄₂ cup plus 2 Tbsp. lard, duck fat, or olive oil, or more as needed
1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped (1 cup)
1 tsp. caraway seeds
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt
¹⁄₂ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
5 garlic cloves, smashed
1 bay leaf
1 head red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
1 ¹⁄₂ cups red wine
1 cup apple cider
1 cup fresh or frozen and defrosted cranberries
1 tbsp. red wine vinegar
4 cloves
1 cinnamon stick

Instructions

In a large pot over medium-high heat, heat the lard until melted. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 minutes. Add the caraway seeds, salt, pepper, garlic, and bay leaf, and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Increase the heat to high. Add a third of the cabbage and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned in places, 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl using tongs and repeat with the remaining cabbage, adding it to the pot in two more batches. (Add more cooking fat between batches if necessary.) Return all of the cabbage to the pot and cook over high heat for 5 more minutes. Add the red wine, cider, cranberries, vinegar, cloves, and cinnamon stick. Reduce heat to low and cover the pot; cook until tender, tossing the cabbage occasionally with tongs, about 45 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Serve braised red cabbage hot.

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German Apple Pancakes

SAVEUR Editors — Fri, 07 Jun 2019 19:28:10 +0000

While dousing these apple pancakes in rum and setting them on fire is optional, it makes for a truly dramatic presentation. The recipe comes from food writer and former Gourmet editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl, who grew up eating a version of the dish at Lüchow’s, a legendary German restaurant in New York.

Adapted from Save Me the Plums by Ruth Reichl, published by Random House, an imprint and division of Penguin Random House LLC.

Featured in: Apple Pancakes So Good, They Made It Into Ruth Reichl’s Memoir

Equipment

Optional

Gas Lighter or Long Match

Yield: serves 6

Time: 1 hour

2 Granny Smith or other tart cooking apples (15 oz.), peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus more for drizzling
½ stick (4 Tbsp.) unsalted butter, divided
¼ cup light brown sugar, packed
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
3 large eggs
¾ cup (4 oz.) all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling
Pinch of kosher salt
1 cup whole milk
¼ cup dark rum or cognac (optional)

Instructions

In a medium bowl, add the apples and lemon juice; toss to coat.
In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. When the foam begins to subside, stir in the brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Add the apples and cook until darkly caramelized and fragrant, 11–12 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
In a large bowl, beat the eggs, then whisk in the flour, granulated sugar, and salt until smooth. Add the milk and continue whisking until a thin, smooth batter forms.
In a nonstick 8-inch skillet over medium heat, melt 1 teaspoon butter. When the foam begins to subside, pour in ⅓ cup batter, tilting the skillet to coat the entire surface with batter and form a thin pancake. Cook until just set, about 2 minutes. Evenly distribute one-third of the apples over the pancake, then pour another ⅓ cup batter on top, tilting the skillet to coat the surface and the apples with batter. Cook until the edges of the fresh batter have begun to set, 1–2 minutes, then use two wide, offset spatulas to flip the pancake. Continue cooking until the bottom is evenly golden brown, 1–2 minutes more, then turn out onto a large plate. Sprinkle generously with granulated sugar, then roll the pancake up like a jelly roll. Sprinkle with more granulated sugar, and if desired, drizzle with a few drops of lemon juice. Repeat with the remaining batter and apples to make a total of 3 rolled pancakes.
If desired, you can flame your pancakes: In the skillet used to cook the apples, add the rum and remaining 1 tablespoon butter; warm over medium heat. Add the pancakes, spoon the rum mixture over the top, and remove from the heat. Working quickly and carefully, use a gas lighter or a long match to set the pancakes on fire. Shake the skillet gently until the flame goes out, then transfer the pancakes to a large plate. Serve warm.

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Bavaria-Style German Mustard

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:53:36 +0000

Todd Coleman

This coarse and lively mustard adds zing when eaten with rich German sausages; warm, yeasty pretzels; and, even, braised pork loin. This recipe is part of our December 2012 issue along with Todd Coleman’s story Bavarian Dream.

Todd Coleman

MAKES ABOUT 1 ½ CUPS

INGREDIENTS

1 small yellow onion, grated
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
6 tbsp. brown mustard seeds
6 tbsp. yellow mustard seeds
3 tbsp. ground mustard
1 tbsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. ground ginger
½ tsp. nutmeg
½ tsp. ground turmeric
¼ cup honey
¼ cup apple cider vinegar

INSTRUCTIONS

Mix all ingredients with ¼ cup water in a bowl; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Next day, transfer to a blender and puree until almost smooth; store refrigerated up to 3 months.

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Comforting German Recipes

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:28 +0000

This southern German specialty combines four kinds of meat in crinkled pockets of dough, served floating in a clear chicken broth with carrot and celery. Get the recipe for Maultaschensuppe (Dumplings in Broth) ». Todd Coleman

We love these hearty dishes from Germany, a country with a culinary tradition much richer than it gets credit for.

In Southern Germany, entire menus are dedicated to this springtime spear. This soup highlights the delicate nature of the white flesh and is a great way to start any meal. See the recipe for White Asparagus Soup » Frieder Blickle

Just a few simple ingredients come together for a delightfully punchy, vinegary potato salad that’s perfect with any barbecue spread. Helen Rosner

These fragrant treats provide a delightful rush of warm spices when bitten into. For best results, start with whole spices and grind them yourself. Helen Rosner

Braised Red Cabbage with Bacon The secret to cooking this dish, a classic German accompaniment to a hearty meat course, is in keeping the pot covered, which helps preserve the cabbage’s deep, purple hue. See the Braised Red Cabbage with Bacon recipe Ben Fink

See the Recipe Evan Sklar

See the Recipe Christopher Hirsheimer

See the Recipe André Baranowski

This recipe is based on one that appears in German Home Cooking by Dr. August Oetker (Bielefeld, 1963). The addition of a little flour gives the soup a smooth texture, while celery root adds an earthy note. **See the recipe for German Split Pea Soup »** Landon Nordeman

A hearty German potato salad like this one makes an ideal accompaniment for smoked brisket. The dish is a legacy of German immigrants who settled in Central Texas. See the recipe for German Potato Salad » Todd Coleman

Red wine warmed with cloves, cinnamon, lemon, and sugar is a quintessential fall treat. André Baranowski

Traditionally, choucroute au poisson was a dish made in Alsatian riverside villages, but today restaurants throughout Alsace serve a version in which filets of flaky, white-fleshed fish such as pike perch are pan-fried or poached and served on a bed of choucroute and topped with a creamy riesling sauce. We found that trout works beautifully, too. See the recipe for Sauerkraut with Fish in Cream Sauce » André Baranowski

The sauce in this dish, based on a recipe in Mimi Sheraton’s The German Cookbook (Random House, 1965), is enriched with hazelnuts and brandy. André Baranowski

Turkey soaks up aromatic flavors like a sponge, and this riff on the Alsatian dish choucroute garnie is a case in point: as the bird roasts under a cloak of bacon and braises in sauerkraut, wine, apples, and a bundle of spices, it takes on the piney fragrance of juniper berries, the fruity flavor of the riesling wine, and some of the smokiness and savor of the pork. Serve this dish with the traditional choucroute accompaniments: sausages, boiled potatoes, and tangy mustard. Todd Coleman

Though it takes a man’s name, the Strammer Max butter-fried bread topped with ham and an egg, is actually German slang for male virility. See the recipe for Strammer Max » Todd Coleman

Klaus Weiler, the chef at Weinhaus Weiler in Oberwesel, Germany, shared the recipe for this classic barley soup. Garnished with sausage, it’s substantial enough to make a meal in itself. Todd Coleman

A creamy potato soup, fragrant with nutmeg and marjoram, gets a zesty kick from a grating of fresh horseradish root. After cooking, it’s whipped into a smooth, airy froth. See the recipe for Kartoffelrahmsuppe (Spiced Potato Soup) » Todd Coleman

The dumplings in this beef soup get a boost of richness from beef bone marrow; parsley and nutmeg impart bright and warming flavors. Todd Coleman

Dumplings filled with minced pork, beef, veal, and bacon steal garnish this specialty soup of Swabia in southern Germany. See the recipe for Maultaschensuppe (Dumplings in Broth) » Todd Coleman

To ensure that this consommé is absolutely clear, a “raft” of ground beef and egg whites is created to absorb impurities, producing an elegant soup with concentrated flavor. See the recipe for Ochsenschwanzsuppe (Oxtail Consommé) » Todd Coleman

This rendition of the deeply-spiced German Christmas cookie gets its soft, chewy texture from the addition of honey. Get the recipe for Lebkuchen (German Fruit and Spice Cookies) » Helen Rosner

This classic German cake, a masterpiece of cherry brandy-soaked pastry engineering, improves the longer it sits. Todd Coleman

The crisp-fried veal topped with luscious egg, salty anchovies, and capers is a brilliant study in contrasting flavors and textures. Photography by Todd Coleman

The secret to the shimmering roux that tops this classic German roast is a pinch of sugar; it gilds the gravy as it balances the lemon and pickling spices in the dish. See the recipe for Sauerbraten » Todd Coleman

At the Hofbrauhaus beer hall in Munich, these giant pretzels, which have a similar chew to bagels, are served with soft butter. See the recipe for Laugenbrezel (Traditional German Pretzels) » Todd Coleman

Applesauce is the perfect foil for these savory, golden fried pancakes, a mix of starchy potatoes, flour, and eggs. Todd Coleman

This sweet-tart conserve is a luscious accompaniment to ice cream. It also adds a fruity dimension when stirred into champagne. Todd Coleman

Juniper berries and caraway seeds give braised pork a floral, woodsy flavor. Wrapping it in bacon keeps the meat moist. Get the recipe for Braised Pork Roast with Root Vegetables » Todd Coleman

See the Recipe Todd Coleman

Apples are roasted in wine and butter for this sweet and spicy dessert, a staple of holiday markets throughout Germany. Todd Coleman

The recipe for these Christmas cookies comes from the bakery Rischart in Munich. Their base is simple, leaving plenty of room for creative decorations. Todd Coleman

The recipe for these Christmas cookies come from the bakery Rischart in Munich. Todd Coleman

The recipe for these Christmas cookies comes from the bakery Rischart in Munich. Todd Coleman

Little crumbly sugar cookies filled with a jammy raspberry filling are a sweet and pretty addition to holiday dessert spreads. Todd Coleman

See the Recipe Todd Coleman

The recipe for these almond and cinnamon Christmas cookies comes from the bakery Rischart in Munich.

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German Comfort Food

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:25:48 +0000

Classic German barley soup makes a hearty, substantial meal; to make it vegetarian, simply omit the sausage and bacon. Todd Coleman

Spatzle means little sparrows in German. André Baranowski

The sauce in this dish, based on a recipe in Mimi Sheraton’s The German Cookbook (Random House, 1965), is enriched with hazelnuts and brandy. André Baranowski

Bacon adds a smoky, salty component to this deep purple German side. See the recipe for Braised Red Cabbage with Bacon »

These German bread dumplings spiced with nutmeg are served in beef-marrow enriched broth for a warming winter soup. Todd Coleman

Applesauce is the perfect foil for these savory, golden fried pancakes, a mix of starchy potatoes, flour, and eggs. Todd Coleman

Chef Oliver Steffensky garnishes this soup, a specialty of Swabia in southern Germany, with dumplings filled with minced pork, beef, veal, and bacon. (For a step-by-step guide to making the dumplings, see the gallery Making Maultaschen ») This recipe first appeared in our November 2011 issue along with Beth Kracklauer’s story The Art of Soup. See the recipe for Maultaschensuppe » Todd Coleman

Juniper berries and caraway seeds give braised pork a floral, woodsy flavor. Wrapping it in bacon keeps the meat moist. Get the recipe for Braised Pork Roast with Root Vegetables » Todd Coleman

Fall-apart tender pieces of veal and rich potato dumplings make this a perfect one-pot meal for a cold-weather weekend. Get the recipe for Veal Stew with Potato Dumplings » Helen Rosner

Dense, savory bread dumplings are simply seasoned with onion, parsley, and nutmeg in this classic recipe from Bavaria. Todd Coleman

The basic wiener schnitzel–a veal cutlet pounded tender, breaded, and fried–is topped with brightly contrasting ingredients for a brilliant study in flavor and texture. See the recipe for Schnitzel a la Holstein » Todd Coleman

Though it takes a man’s name, the Strammer Max butter-fried bread topped with ham and an egg, is actually German slang for male virility. See the recipe for Strammer Max » Todd Coleman

See the Recipe Ben Fink

This classic German cake, a masterpiece of cherry brandy-soaked pastry engineering, improves the longer it sits. Todd Coleman

Apples are roasted in wine and butter for this sweet and spicy dessert, a staple of holiday markets throughout Germany. Todd Coleman

The post German Comfort Food appeared first on Saveur.

Sauerbraten

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:32:24 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross

Chef Thomas Ferlesch of Brooklyn’s Werkstatt restaurant says one thing is nonnegotiable when it comes to making this classic German dish: the use of beef shoulder, also called flat iron steak, or Schulterscherzel in German. “It has just enough fat for braising without being too rich and greasy or too dry,” he says.

A vintage postcard view of Lüchow’s Restaurant, located on East 14th Street in Manhattan, which opened in 1882 and catered to German food lovers for a full century.

Yield: serves 6-8

Time: 3 hours 30 minutes

One 4-lb. flat iron steak
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed
³⁄₄ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 ¹⁄₄ cups unsalted butter, lard, or vegetable oil, divided
2 carrots, diced (1 1/2 cups)
2 parsnips, diced (1 1/2 cups)
¹⁄₂ celery root, diced (1/2 cup)
¹⁄₂ cup tomato paste
1 (750-ml) bottle red wine
4 cups apple cider
4 cups beef or chicken stock
1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
10 juniper berries
3 bay leaves
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 cinnamon stick
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley

Instructions

Season the beef generously all over with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add 1⁄2 cup fat and heat until hot. Add the beef and cook, turning occasionally, until well browned on all sides, about 3 minutes each. Transfer to a large plate.
Lower the heat to medium-low and add the carrots, parsnips, and celery root to the pot; season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned in places, about 3 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and stir in the tomato paste. Cook, stirring occasionally, until darkened slightly, 3–5 minutes. Add the wine, cider, stock, vinegar, juniper berries, bay leaves, garlic, cinnamon, and thyme, and bring to a simmer over high heat. Carefully return the beef to the pot; cover and cook at a low simmer for 1 hour. (Alternatively, you can simmer the beef in the center of the oven at 350°.)
Meanwhile, in a medium skillet over medium heat, heat 3⁄4 cup fat until warm. Add the flour to make a roux and cook, stirring or whisking constantly and reaching all sides of the pan, until the flour is golden brown, about 15 minutes.
After the beef has been cooking for 1 hour, add the roux to the pot with the beef, stirring to incorporate. Bring the liquid to a high simmer, then reduce to a low simmer. Cover and let simmer until the meat is tender, 30 minutes to 1 hour more.
Chop 2 tablespoons of parsley and set aside. Add the remaining bunch of parsley to the pot. Cover, turn off the heat, and let rest 30 minutes.
Remove the meat to a cutting board. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain the cooking liquid and discard the solids. Add the sauce back to the pan and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Cut the beef into thick slices and reheat briefly in the sauce. Serve drizzled with sauce and garnished with the reserved chopped parsley.

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German Pretzel Dumplings (Serviettenknödel)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:15:47 +0000

German pretzel dumplings. Matt Taylor-Gross

These savory dumplings are great for sopping up the juices from sauerbraten and other braised meats. Start with day-old pretzels to help the dough crisp up more quickly.

A vintage postcard view of Lüchow’s Restaurant, located on East 14th Street in Manhattan, which opened in 1882 and catered to German food lovers for a full century.

Yield: serves 10-12

Time: 3 hours 20 minutes

¹⁄₂ cup lard
2 yellow onions, minced (1 3/4 cup)
³⁄₄ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 qt. milk
8 large eggs
1 pinch nutmeg
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 soft pretzels, bagels, or day-old kaiser rolls, cut into 1-inch pieces (1 1/4 lb.)
Unsalted butter

Instructions

In a large skillet over medium heat, add the lard and heat until melted. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden brown, 30 minutes. Mix in the parsley. Turn off the heat and let cool.
In a large bowl, mix the milk, eggs, nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the pretzel pieces and the cooled onion mixture and let soak for 1 hour. (Mixture may be runny.)
On a clean workstation, lay out a sheet of plastic wrap. Place about 1 cup of the dough mixture on the plastic wrap in a log shape. Close the plastic wrap around the mixture to form a 1 1⁄2- to 2-inch-thick roll, then tie knots at both ends. Wrap the roll in aluminum foil for an extra seal. Repeat with the remaining pretzel mixture. (You will have 6–7 rolls.)
In a large pot of boiling, well-salted water, add the rolls. Cook at a gentle boil for 30 minutes.
Transfer the rolls to a clean cutting board. (Dough rolls can be kept overnight in the refrigerator at this stage.) Unwrap and cut into 1 1⁄2- to 2-inch-thick slices.
Line a baking sheet with paper towels. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt 2–3 tablespoons butter. When foam begins to subside but butter solids are not yet browned, add as many slices as will fit in the pan (about 15). Cook, turning as needed, until the dumplings are well browned on both sides, about 20 minutes. Repeat with the remaining dumplings, cleaning out the pan and adding more butter between batches.

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