Fall | Saveur

Autumn Bellini

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:37 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Prosecco marries with richly spiced mulled cider and a splash of vodka in this seasonal take on the classic Bellini served at the now-closed Caffè Storico in New York City. While the original recipe called for a fig-flavored vodka such as Figenza, regular vodka works just as well in this fall cocktail.

Yield: 2 cocktails

Time: 10 minutes

Ingredients

For the mulled cider syrup:

1 cup apple cider
½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
4 whole cloves
2 green cardamom pods
2 cinnamon sticks
2 whole star anise

For the Bellini

1 oz. vodka
12 oz. chilled prosecco

Instructions

Make the mulled cider syrup: In a small pot, bring the cider to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cider is reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the nutmeg, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and star anise, then remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Strain the syrup into an airtight container and refrigerate. (You should have about ½ cup of syrup.)
Make the cocktail: To a cocktail shaker filled halfway with ice, add the vodka and 2½ ounces of the mulled cider syrup. Shake until chilled, then strain into two champagne glasses, top each with prosecco, and serve.

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Käsespätzle (Cheese Spaetzle)

SAVEUR Editors — Tue, 15 Jan 2019 19:10:30 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

This satisfying German pasta dish is adapted from the one served at Spatenhaus an der Oper in Munich. The trick to transforming the soft dough into delicate, tender dumplings is well-aerated eggs and and mastering the delivery of batter into the boiling water. Consider picking up an easy-to-use spätzle-maker, or use a bowl scraper and a colander or a potato ricer to extrude the batter directly into the pot.

Featured In “Learn to Make Spätzle: Germany’s Favorite Comfort Food” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

1¾ cups plus 2 Tbsp. (9 oz.) all-purpose flour, divided
1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
1 large yellow onion (7 oz.), half thinly sliced, half finely chopped
1 cup vegetable oil
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
5 large eggs
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup (4 oz.) grated Bavarian bergkäse cheese or Gruyère
2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons of the flour and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Add the sliced half of the onion and toss to coat.
To a medium skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the sliced onions (leave the excess flour behind) and fry, using tongs to stir occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, 9–10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside. Transfer the oil in the skillet to a heatproof bowl and cool completely before discarding. Wipe the skillet clean with paper towels and set aside.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.
Meanwhile, return the skillet to the stove and place over medium heat. Add the butter. When it has melted and the foam begins to subside, add the chopped half of the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent but not yet browned, 8–9 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until very frothy. Add the nutmeg and the remaining flour and salt and whisk to a uniform, thick batter. Continue whisking until bubbles slowly rise to the surface when you stop whisking, about 2 minutes more.
When the water begins to boil, place a spätzle maker or a heat-resistant colander with large holes over the pot. Pour the batter onto the spätzle maker or colander. Working quickly, use a bowl scraper or rubber spatula to force the all of the batter through the holes. Immediately stir the water gently to separate any stuck pieces. When the water returns to a boil, cook the spätzle for 2 minutes, then drain them and rinse well under cold water.
Return the large skillet with the chopped onions to the stove and place it over medium-high heat. When the onions begin to sizzle, add the spätzle and cheese. Stir until the spätzle is hot and the cheese is fully melted. Season to taste with salt, then transfer to a large bowl or four small plates. Top with the chives and reserved fried onions, sprinkle with black pepper, and serve immediately.

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Sweet Corn Pakoras

Romy Gill — Thu, 26 Aug 2021 03:57:24 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

Chickpea flour acts as a flavorful binder in these Indian corn fritters from British Indian chef Romy Gill, whose promotion of West Bengali cuisine has earned her status as a Member of the Order of the British Empire. She serves these pakoras to her daughters, and they enjoy them with mint-and-cilantro chutney, or even ketchup on the side.

Featured in “The 2020 Saveur 100: 81-90.”

Yield: 3

Time: 20 minutes

1 cup fresh corn kernels (from 1–2 cobs)
½ cup thinly sliced red onion
1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped cilantro
1 tsp. Indian chile powder
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. cumin seeds
Kosher salt
¾ cup chickpea flour
¼ cup sparkling water
Corn or vegetable oil, for frying
Mint-and-cilantro chutney or ketchup, for serving (optional)

Instructions

In a medium bowl, stir together the corn, onion, cilantro, chile powder, coriander, and cumin, and season to taste with salt. Sift the chickpea flour over the ingredients and toss gently. Add the sparkling water and use your fingers to mix, thoroughly coating the vegetables in the thin batter.
Into a large, heavy-bottomed pot fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour the oil to a depth of 1½ inches and turn the heat to medium-high. When the temperature reads 340°F, working in batches, carefully drop the batter by rounded tablespoons into the oil (avoid crowding the pan) and fry until crispy and golden brown, 2–2½ minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fritters to a paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain.
Serve hot, with mint-and-cilantro chutney, if desired.

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Bistecca alla Fiorentina with Watercress and Pistachio Salad

Stacy Adimando — Tue, 28 May 2019 17:43:47 +0000

Jenny Huang. Jenny Huang

Modeled after the famed Tuscan porterhouse, which in Italy is most often served in hefty cuts intended for sharing, this slightly more petite version from cookbook author and former SAVEUR editor-in-chief Stacy Adimando quickly comes together for dinner at home. The simple, umami-packed seasonings are slicked on using a pastry brush at the end of cooking. If possible, select a quality steak with some age on it for this recipe.

Featured in: “Italy’s Most Delicious Steak, on a Weeknight at Home.”

Yield: 2

Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the steak:

One 1¼ lb. bone-in porterhouse steak
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 oil-packed anchovy fillets, finely chopped, plus ½ tsp. oil from the jar
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, grated (1¼ tsp.)
1 tsp. very finely chopped fresh rosemary

For the salad:

2 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot (from ½ shallot)
2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. red wine vinegar
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups loosely packed watercress (2½ oz.)
Freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. raw or roasted, unsalted pistachios
Parsley sprigs, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

Dry the steak with paper towels if needed. Season all over with salt and black pepper, ensuring that it thoroughly sticks to the meat. Set aside to come to room temperature, at least 20 minutes.
In a medium bowl, stir together the anchovies and their oil, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the garlic, and rosemary.
Make the salad dressing: In a large bowl, stir together the shallot, vinegar, and a pinch of salt.
Place a large cast-iron or stainless-steel skillet over medium heat. Brush the steak with a little oil from the anchovy mixture (avoid any solids at this point). Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the skillet and turn the heat to medium-high. When the oil begins to smoke, carefully add the steak and cook, pressing down on the bone with tongs to help the steak remain in contact with the skillet, until a very dark crust forms on the bottom, about 6 minutes. Flip the steak and cook until the other side is deeply browned, about 3 minutes. Turn the steak to press its fatty sides up against the skillet until browned, about 1 minute more.
Transfer the steak to a cutting board and immediately brush all over with the remaining anchovy mixture. Set aside to rest for 6–8 minutes.
Make the salad: In the bowl with the shallot mixture, whisk in the olive oil. Add the watercress, season to taste with salt and black pepper, and toss gently to coat.
Using a chef’s knife, cut the meat away from the bone and into two pieces by following the lines of the center bone. (Reserve the bone.) Starting from one end, slice each piece of meat about ½ inch thick against the grain, keeping it in the shape of the original steak.
Transfer the salad to one side of a large platter. Add the steak bone to the other side of the platter and nestle the two halves of meat back into the bone, overlapping slightly with the salad. Drizzle the meat with juices from the cutting board, top the salad with the pistachios and parsley (if desired), and serve immediately.

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Ramp Jam

Hugh Acheson — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:28:35 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross. Matt Taylor-Gross

Ramps’ short window of availability makes their earthy, garlicky twang all the more appealing. When they’re in season, we’re putting them in everything: scrambled eggs, salads, tarts. In this recipe adapted from his cookbook The Broad Fork, chef Hugh Acheson turns ramps into a simple jam thickened with powdered pectin. The sweet-savory compote will serve you well all summer long on grilled sausages and hamburgers, or spoon some on top of shaved pork loin or steak and eggs. Or, can it using a hot water bath and add springtime flair to your morning toast come winter.

Whole ramps are sliced thin from bulb to leaf tip and sautéed in olive oil before being cooked down with vinegar for bite and sugar for sweetness. Acheson adds bay leaves along the way for a subtle extra flavor note. Once the mixture reduces a little, pectin is added to help it thicken up. The goal, Acheson says, is to avoid overcooking ramps and dulling their delicate flavor; the pectin allows the mixture to gel without having to cook it down too much. The finished jam will keep in the fridge for up to a month, or you can process the jars according to the National Center for Home Food Preservation’s canning guidelines and keep them for up to 9 months in a cool, dark place.

Yield: Makes 1 pint

Time: 30 minutes

1 tsp. olive oil
1 lb. ramps, white ends thinly sliced and leaves cut into 1-in. pieces
1 Tbsp. sea salt
1 cup white balsamic vinegar
½ cup sugar
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. powdered pectin

Instructions

To a medium pot over medium heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the ramps and salt, and cook until soft but not colored, about 10 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the vinegar, sugar, and bay leaves, and cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to medium, add the pectin, and continue cooking, whisking continuously, until thickened, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a sterilized pint jar with a lid.

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Guinness Soda Bread

Byron Moussouris — Fri, 03 Apr 2020 13:05:18 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

This quick and not-too-sweet brown soda bread comes from Byron Moussouris, the executive head chef of the Bloomsbury Hotel in London. Made with a generous splash of Guinness stout and black treacle—a robust cane syrup similar to molasses—this bread is best served warm or at room temperature, with soft, cultured butter or clotted cream and jam.

Yield: Makes one 8-by-4-inch loaf

Time: 1 hour

1 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, plus more for greasing
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. whole wheat flour
1½ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup rolled oats, plus more for sprinkling
1¼ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. fine sea salt
1 cup whole milk
¼ cup black treacle or molasses
½ cup Guinness

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350° F. Lightly grease an 8-by-4-inch loaf pan with butter and line with parchment.
In a large bowl, stir together the whole wheat and all-purpose flours, oats, baking soda, and salt. Add the butter and, using a pastry blender or your hands, cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles small crumbs and holds together slightly when squeezed in the palm of your hand. Add the milk, treacle, and Guinness, then use a silicone spatula or wooden spoon to fold the liquids into the dry ingredients just until combined. (Do not overmix.) Transfer the batter to the prepared loaf pan, smoothing the surface with the spatula or the back of the spoon. Sprinkle with a generous pinch of oats.
Bake until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, 45–50 minutes. Allow to cool slightly, then unmold the loaf and slice to serve warm (or cool to room temperature before slicing).

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Teh Halia (Ginger Milk Tea)

Christopher Tan — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:47:34 +0000

Maura McEvoy

In April 2007, Singaporean writer Christopher Tan introduced Saveur readers to the city-state’s best restaurants, hawker centers, and signature fare, including this soothing ginger tea that’s finished with sweetened condensed milk—an enduring colonial import throughout Southeast Asia. Tan, who still lives in Singapore, continues to sing the beverage’s praises: “The soulful marriage of tannic tea and ginger’s slow burn, officiated by syrupy dairy, is a universally calming panacea,” he says.

Yield: 8

Time: 10 minutes

One 14-inch piece fresh ginger
1 cup sugar
7 cups strongly brewed, strained black tea, such as assam
1 cup whole milk
½ cup sweetened condensed milk

Instructions

Line a small pot with several large layers of cheesecloth. Finely grate the ginger over the cheesecloth. Bring the edges up to form a purse, then squeeze the purse over the pot, extracting as much ginger juice as possible (you should have about ½ cup). Discard the solids. Add the sugar to the pot and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar just dissolves, about 2 minutes.
In a large pitcher, stir together the ginger syrup, tea, and milks. Serve hot or over ice.

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Café de Olla

Kate Hill — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:36:45 +0000

Maura McEvoy

Intended for cooking beans and simmering stews, the Mexican earthenware pot known as an olla is said to distribute heat evenly and lend a unique earthy flavor to any preparation. Which, in this case, applies to coffee boiled with cinnamon and the raw sugar called piloncillo or panela. Notably, the drink does not contain milk.

Featured in “The “Women of the Corn” Share More than Maize at Yo’on Ixim” by Kate Hill.

Yield: 8

Time: 10 minutes

⅔ cup tightly packed piloncillo, or dark-brown sugar
½ cup dark-roasted, medium-ground coffee
2 small sticks cinnamon, preferably Ceylon

Instructions

In a small olla or medium pot over medium heat, add 8 cups cold water and the piloncillo, coffee, and cinnamon. Stir until the piloncillo has dissolved. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat and let steep for 5 minutes.
Set a fine mesh strainer or coffee filter over a large, heatproof pitcher and strain the coffee. Serve hot.

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Irish Cream

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:30:51 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

The next time you get a hankering for Irish cream, skip the store-bought version and make the silky-smooth liqueur at home with just six ingredients. This Irish cream recipe adds sweet richness and depth to coffee and cake frosting, but it’s just as decadent on its own, enjoyed over ice. For the whiskey, look for an Irish variety like Green Spot, Connemara, or Jameson.

Yield: 8

Time: 10 minutes

1 cup heavy cream, divided
1 tsp. instant coffee
½ tsp. cocoa powder
¾ cup Irish whiskey
1 tsp. vanilla extract
One 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk

Instructions

In a large bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon of the cream, the coffee, and cocoa powder. Gradually add the remaining cream, whisking continuously until smooth. Stir in the whiskey, vanilla, and condensed milk. Pour into a large, sealable container and refrigerate until ready to use. (It will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.)
To serve, pour into a tumbler filled with ice.

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Cheddar-Beer Fondue

Kat Craddock — Wed, 06 Dec 2023 19:30:24 +0000

Photo: Grace Ann Leadbeater • Food Styling: Madison Trapkin. Photo: Grace Ann Leadbeater • Food Styling: Madison Trapkin

At a Wisconsin-themed winter fondue party, our editor-in-chief Kat Craddock melted down two types of cheddar—an earthy, farmhouse-style version and a classic sharp—for a zippy, beer-spiked riff on the classic dish.

Featured in “Lessons From a Fondue Fête with Two Wisconsin Cheesemakers.”

Yield: 6

Time: 20 minutes

⅔ lb. medium-sharp cheddar cheese, such as Black Creek 9-Month Cheddar, coarsely grated
⅓ lb. cave-aged cheddar cheese, such as Carr Valley Cave-Aged Cheddar, coarsely grated
1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
¼ tsp. garlic powder
1 cup lager or pilsner beer
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Breadsticks and crusty bread, cut into cubes, sliced smoked sausage, and roasted potatoes, for dipping

Instructions

In a large bowl, toss the two cheddars with the flour and garlic powder and set aside.
Set a fondue pot over medium-high heat, add the beer, and bring to a simmer. Whisk in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce, then gradually add the cheese-flour mixture while stirring. Turn the heat down to low and continue stirring until the cheese is melted and the fondue is very smooth, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, then season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Set the fondue pot over a tealight or sterno flame and serve with breadsticks, crusty bread, smoked sausage, and roasted potatoes, for dipping.

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Spiced Chocolate Fondue

Fatima Khawaja — Wed, 06 Dec 2023 19:29:55 +0000

Photo: Grace Ann Leadbeater • Food Styling: Madison Trapkin. Photo: Grace Ann Leadbeater • Food Styling: Madison Trapkin

Wisconsin’s Crave Brothers Mascarpone lends this silky spiced chocolate fondue from Fatima Khawaja its rich and milky flavor and a luxurious texture that holds together well over a low warmer. Khawaja served this fondue with a bounty of sweet dippers; do the same, or keep it simple with just one or two sweet treats.

Featured in “Lessons From a Fondue Fête with Two Wisconsin Cheesemakers.”

Yield: 6

8 oz. dark chocolate, finely chopped
8 oz. milk chocolate, finely chopped
1 tsp. ancho chile powder
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. kosher salt
8 oz. (1 scant cup) Crave Brothers Mascarpone
1¼ cup heavy cream
Brioche, cut into cubes and toasted; cookies; dates; marshmallows; potato chips; or strawberries, for dipping

Instructions

In a double boiler set over medium-low heat, toss together the dark and milk chocolates, the ancho chile powder, cinnamon, and salt. Add the mascarpone and cream and cook, using a silicone spatula to stir frequently, until mostly melted, about 5 minutes. Turn off the flame and allow the fondue to continue melting over the residual heat, stirring occasionally, until completely smooth, about 5 minutes more.
Transfer the chocolate mixture to a fondue pot over a tealight or low sterno flame and serve with toasted brioche, cookies, dates, marshmallows, potato chips, or strawberries, for dipping.

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