Dairy | Saveur

Käsespätzle (Cheese Spaetzle)

SAVEUR Editors — Tue, 15 Jan 2019 19:10:30 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

This satisfying German pasta dish is adapted from the one served at Spatenhaus an der Oper in Munich. The trick to transforming the soft dough into delicate, tender dumplings is well-aerated eggs and and mastering the delivery of batter into the boiling water. Consider picking up an easy-to-use spätzle-maker, or use a bowl scraper and a colander or a potato ricer to extrude the batter directly into the pot.

Featured In “Learn to Make Spätzle: Germany’s Favorite Comfort Food” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

1¾ cups plus 2 Tbsp. (9 oz.) all-purpose flour, divided
1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
1 large yellow onion (7 oz.), half thinly sliced, half finely chopped
1 cup vegetable oil
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
5 large eggs
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup (4 oz.) grated Bavarian bergkäse cheese or Gruyère
2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons of the flour and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Add the sliced half of the onion and toss to coat.
To a medium skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the sliced onions (leave the excess flour behind) and fry, using tongs to stir occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, 9–10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside. Transfer the oil in the skillet to a heatproof bowl and cool completely before discarding. Wipe the skillet clean with paper towels and set aside.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.
Meanwhile, return the skillet to the stove and place over medium heat. Add the butter. When it has melted and the foam begins to subside, add the chopped half of the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent but not yet browned, 8–9 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until very frothy. Add the nutmeg and the remaining flour and salt and whisk to a uniform, thick batter. Continue whisking until bubbles slowly rise to the surface when you stop whisking, about 2 minutes more.
When the water begins to boil, place a spätzle maker or a heat-resistant colander with large holes over the pot. Pour the batter onto the spätzle maker or colander. Working quickly, use a bowl scraper or rubber spatula to force the all of the batter through the holes. Immediately stir the water gently to separate any stuck pieces. When the water returns to a boil, cook the spätzle for 2 minutes, then drain them and rinse well under cold water.
Return the large skillet with the chopped onions to the stove and place it over medium-high heat. When the onions begin to sizzle, add the spätzle and cheese. Stir until the spätzle is hot and the cheese is fully melted. Season to taste with salt, then transfer to a large bowl or four small plates. Top with the chives and reserved fried onions, sprinkle with black pepper, and serve immediately.

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Grilled Chicken Tikka

Meherwan Irani — Wed, 02 Oct 2019 15:12:03 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Asheville, North Carolina chef Meherwan Irani’s marinade for these grilled chicken tikka kebabs achieves the perfect balance of yogurt, lime, and spices. Cutting the chicken into strips rather than the traditional whole chunks allows the meat to cook faster without drying out, and as an added bonus, increases the surface area in contact with the marinade. The same marinade and technique can also be used for lamb (boneless or chops), steak, or paneer.

Look for jars of ginger-garlic paste at your local Indian grocery store. If you can’t find it, make your own by pounding 6 garlic cloves with a 1½-inch piece of peeled ginger in a mortar and pestle, or by blending to a coarse paste in a food processor. Dried fenugreek leaves are a savory, aromatic herb reminiscent of maple syrup. Commonly used in Indian street food, chaat masala is a tangy mix of rock salt and spices including dried mango powder, asafetida, and black pepper.

Featured in “6 Magnificent Indian Grilling Recipes You Can Pull Off Indoors or Outdoors.”

Yield: 8

Time: 5 hours 10 minutes

1¼ cups Greek yogurt
¼ cup vegetable oil
3 Tbsp. ginger-garlic paste
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 1 lime)
2 Tbsp. Kashmiri chile powder
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
1 Tbsp. garam masala
1 tsp. dried fenugreek leaves (optional)
½ tsp. Indian red chile powder (or substitute cayenne)
½ tsp. ground cumin
2½ lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut on the bias, against the grain, into ½-in.-thick strips
½ cup melted ghee or unsalted butter, for basting
1 tsp. chaat masala (optional)

Instructions

Marinate the chicken: In a large bowl, whisk together the yogurt, oil, ginger-garlic paste, lime juice, Kashmiri chile powder, salt, vinegar, coriander, garam masala, fenugreek (if desired), Indian chile powder, and cumin until completely smooth. Add the chicken and toss gently to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 6. (Over-marination will make the meat mushy and soggy.)
Meanwhile, soak ten 8-inch bamboo skewers for at least 30 minutes.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high (about 450°F). (Alternatively, heat a grill pan over high.) Drain the skewers and shake off any excess water. Skewer the chicken: Start by pushing the tip of the skewer through one end of a chicken strip. Curve the strip and push the tip through the middle, then curve again and skewer the other end to create an S-shape. Push the strip to the far end of the skewer and repeat with more chicken, threading 4–5 strips per skewer.
Add the skewers to the grill side by side, spacing about 1 inch apart. Cover the grill and cook until lightly charred on one side, about 4 minutes. (If using a grill pan, cover the skewers with a large stainless steel bowl, or tent loosely with foil.) Open the grill and use tongs to flip each skewer, then cover and continue cooking until the opposite side is charred, about 3 minutes. Open the grill and flip each skewer once more. Baste the tops with ghee and continue cooking with the grill open until cooked through, 1–2 minutes more. Transfer to a platter, sprinkle with chaat masala (if desired), and serve hot.

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Stuffed Celery

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:22:00 +0000

Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

This old-school appetizer from Los Angeles’ storied Musso & Frank Grill—now more than a century old—turns humble celery into a creamy, elegant hors d’oeuvre. While the restaurant peels the celery ribs before stuffing them, the dish is just as satisfying without that extra step.

Featured in the April 2009 issue.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

6 oz. blue cheese, preferably Roquefort, crumbled (about ¾ cup), at room temperature
6 oz. cream cheese, cut into 1-in. cubes, at room temperature
¼ cup sour cream
½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
⅛ tsp. hot sauce, preferably Tabasco
Green leaf lettuce, for garnish
5 celery ribs, trimmed and halved crosswise into sticks
Paprika, for garnish
5 pitted black California olives, halved, for garnish
Curly parsley sprigs, for garnish

Instructions

To a food processor, add the blue cheese, cream cheese, sour cream, Worcestershire, and hot sauce and pulse until smooth. Scrape the cheese mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a small piping tip or a quart-size zip-top bag, seal, and refrigerate to firm up, at least 30 minutes.
On a platter, arrange the lettuce leaves in an even layer and, if desired, top with 1 cup of crushed ice. Arrange the celery sticks, concave side up, on top. Retrieve the cheese mixture from the fridge, snip off a lower corner if using a zip-top bag, and pipe about 2 tablespoons of the cheese mixture into each celery stick. Sprinkle with paprika, garnish each celery stick with an olive half and a parsley sprig, and serve immediately.

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Brown Butter Sugar Cookies

Javier Zuniga — Fri, 16 Aug 2024 15:01:43 +0000

Photo: Nina Gallant • Food Styling: Madison Trapkin. Photo: Nina Gallant • Food Styling: Madison Trapkin

At Bad Habit Ice Cream—a natural wine bar-meets-scoop-shop in New York City—a reach-in freezer is stocked with to-go pints and Big Mac-sized ice cream sandwiches featuring chef and co-owner Javier Zuniga’s playfully elevated flavor combinations. These chewy sugar cookies starring rich, nutty brown butter frequently sandwich fruit-based ice creams such as roasted banana or sweet milk with a swirl of orange marmalade or fig jam. Fake it at home by softening a quart of store-bought vanilla ice cream and folding in a ripple of your favorite preserves.

Featured in “6 Bold Ice Cream Sandwich Recipes to Change Things Up This Summer” by Kat Craddock.

Yield: Makes 32 cookies

Time: 6 hours

26 Tbsp. (13 oz.) unsalted butter
3 cups (21 oz.) light brown sugar
2¾ cups (14 oz.) all-purpose flour
2 tsp. fine salt
1½ tsp. baking soda
2 large eggs
4 large egg yolks

Instructions

In a large pot over medium-high heat, melt the butter and cook, using a wooden spoon to stir and scrape the bottom of the pot frequently, until the solids are toasty, browned, and very fragrant, about 8 minutes. (Do not walk away from the stove; butter can go from perfectly browned to burned and bitter very quickly.) Remove from the heat, then immediately stir in the brown sugar. Set aside until room temperature.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and baking soda.
When the butter-sugar mixture has cooled, use the wooden spoon or a silicone spatula to stir in the eggs and yolks, then stir in the flour mixture until just combined. Cover and refrigerate the dough until firm, at least 4 and up to 24 hours.
Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Scoop the dough into 32 two-tablespoon portions, then roll each into golf ball-sized spheres. Working in batches, arrange the spheres 3 inches apart on two parchment-lined baking sheets and bake, rotating and swapping the top and bottom pans halfway through cooking, until the cookies have spread and are lightly browned on top and slightly darker at the edges, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack. Between batches, rinse (under cold water), dry, and reline the baking sheets with parchment. Serve warm or at room temperature, or, if making ice cream sandwiches, chill the cookies before assembling.

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Pimento Cheese Burgers

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:46 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Pimento cheese is a popular burger topping in and around Columbia, South Carolina, where it‘s often called a PC burger. According to the Southern food expert John T. Edge in his book Hamburgers & Fries: An American Story, “Every third joint serves one, and at least half of them are good.” Dolloped atop a hot grilled patty, the piquant spread of cheddar, pimentos, mayo, and spices melts and blends beautifully with charred beef. The cheese gives so much flavor to the burger that you won’t need ketchup or mustard.

Featured in “Doing It Their Way” by Adam Kuban.

Yield: 4

Time: 30 minutes

4 oz. sharp yellow cheddar, grated (about 1 cup)
3 Tbsp. mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. finely grated onion
1 Tbsp. finely chopped jarred pimentos, or other roasted red peppers
½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ lb. ground beef, formed into 4 equal-size patties
4 hamburger buns, toasted
Iceberg lettuce and sliced tomatoes, for serving

Instructions

In a medium bowl, stir together the cheddar, mayonnaise, onion, pimentos, and Worcestershire sauce. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, then set aside.
Season the beef patties to taste with salt and black pepper. Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. (Alternatively, to a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil.) Grill the patties, flipping once, until cooked to desired doneness, about 10 minutes for medium-rare.
Spread 2 tablespoons of pimento cheese over each patty, cover, and allow to melt. Arrange the bottom buns on plates, layer with the patties, tomatoes, lettuce, and top buns, and serve immediately.

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Mango Lassi

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:47:54 +0000

Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Use the ripest, sweetest, smoothest mangoes you can find, such as Champagne or Haitian varieties, to make this yogurt-enriched Indian fruit shake. Striking the perfect balance between sweet and tart, this mango lassi makes a fine breakfast smoothie, or cooling accompaniment to spicy meals.

Yield: Makes 4

Time: 1 hour 5 minutes

3 cups plain yogurt (not Greek-style)
¼ cup sugar
½ tsp. kosher salt
1 large ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and coarsely chopped
Coarsely chopped pistachios, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

To a blender, add the yogurt, sugar, salt, and mango, and pulse until smooth. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour. Pour into glasses, garnish with pistachios if desired, and serve.

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Burrata and Marinated Cherry Tomato Sandwiches

Casa del Vino — Tue, 27 Jul 2021 17:50:00 +0000

Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Victoria Granof • Prop Styling: Dayna Seman. Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Victoria Granof • Prop Styling: Dayna Seman

This take on a classic caprese sandwich from the Florentine enoteca Casa del Vino gets an upgrade by using burrata, a mozzarella-adjacent cheese with a stretched, firm exterior that just barely contains a creamy filling of stracciatella curds. Crusty bread loosely holds the burrata and marinated tomatoes together, but it is a pleasantly messy, altogether indulgent delight. Marinate the tomatoes overnight for sandwiches that come together in minutes. Check out more of our tomato recipes to celebrate the glory of summer.

Featured in “8 Reasons to Fall in Love with Florence” by Adam Leith Gollner.

Yield: 4

Time: 8 hours 10 minutes

2 cups halved cherry tomatoes
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1 Tbsp. capers
10 oil-packed anchovy fillets, finely chopped (2 Tbsp.)
Crushed red chile flakes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
One 8-oz. ball burrata
4 small crusty sandwich rolls

Instructions

To a large bowl, add the tomatoes, oil, vinegar, capers, anchovies, a pinch of chile flakes, and a generous pinch each of salt and black pepper. Stir well to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to rest on the countertop if serving immediately, or in the refrigerator for 8–24 hours.
When ready to serve, let the tomato mixture come to room temperature, stirring briefly before plating. Split each sandwich roll and top with some of the tomato mixture. Divide the burrata among the rolls. Season with salt, black pepper, or more chile flakes to taste, and serve.

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Vietnamese Coffee Ice Cream

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:28:47 +0000

Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Victoria Granof • Prop Styling: Dayna Seman. Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Victoria Granof • Prop Styling: Dayna Seman

Once you’ve tasted Vietnamese iced coffee, you’ll see why it’s well-suited to a transformation into ice cream. Sweetened condensed milk and a touch of spice set this caffeinated treat apart from other coffee ice creams.

Yield: Makes 3 cups

Time: 18 hours 15 minutes

2 cups heavy cream
½ cup coarsely ground dark roast coffee beans
½ tsp. fine sea salt
1 pinch ground cinnamon
6 whole green cardamom pods, crushed
One 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk
4 large egg yolks

Instructions

To a small pot over medium-high heat, add the cream, coffee, salt, cinnamon, and cardamom. Bring the mixture to a boil, then remove from heat; set aside at room temperature to steep for 20 minutes.
Strain the cream mixture through a fine mesh sieve set over a medium bowl. Discard the solids, then return the liquid to the pot and cook over medium heat until steaming.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the sweetened condensed milk and the yolks until smooth, then slowly whisk in the hot cream mixture. Cover with plastic wrap, then transfer to the fridge and chill for 12–24 hours.
Pour the chilled base into an ice cream maker, and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Scrape the ice cream into an airtight container and freeze until set, at least 4 hours. Scoop into bowls and serve immediately.

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Seared Turbot with Beurre Blanc

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:24:18 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Turbot, a flatfish found in the North Atlantic, is pan-seared and generously sauced with a classic accompaniment of beurre blanc in this recipe adapted from Allard, a beloved old-guard bistro in Paris. If you can’t find turbot, you can substitute fillets of sole, fluke, or flounder. As for what to drink, Sancerre is an elegant match for this ﬁsh dish.

Featured in “Spirit of the Bistro” by Alexander Lobrano.

Yield: 2

Time: 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the beurre blanc:

10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed and chilled, divided
1 large shallot, finely chopped
½ cup white wine
1 bay leaf
1 thyme sprig
⅓ cup plus 2 Tbsp. heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Lemon wedges, for serving

For the fish:

¼ all-purpose flour
2 boneless, skinless turbot, sole, fluke, or flounder fillets (7–10 oz. each)
Finely chopped parsley, for garnish
Lemon wedges, for serving

Instructions

Make the beurre blanc: To a large skillet over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons of the butter and cook until lightly browned, 2–4 minutes. Add the shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 4–5 minutes. Add the wine, bay leaf, and thyme, and cook until the wine has almost evaporated, 5–7 minutes. Add the cream, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, 4–6 minutes more. Remove the skillet from the heat, then remove and discard the bay leaf and thyme.
Divide 5 tablespoons of the butter into two batches. Add one batch to the skillet, whisking continuously until the butter melts and the sauce is smooth, 3–5 minutes. Repeat with the remaining batch of butter. (For a smoother sauce, strain the beurre blanc through a fine-mesh sieve.) Season the beurre blanc to taste with salt and black pepper. Cover, keep warm, and set aside.
Prepare the fish: Place the flour on a large, shallow plate. Season both sides of the fish fillets to taste with salt and black pepper. Dip each fillet quickly into the flour, shaking off the excess.
In a separate large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter until foamy, about 1 minute. Add the fish to the skillet in one layer and cook, basting with butter and turning once, until the fillets are browned and cooked through, 4–6 minutes total.
Using a fish spatula, transfer each fillet to a warm serving plate and top with beurre blanc. Garnish with parsley, then serve immediately with lemon wedges.

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Butter-Basted Eggs

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:45:01 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Basting eggs with hot melted butter promises a perfect sunny-side-up presentation. Once the whites are set and the yolks are still perfectly runny, brown the butter left in the pan until it’s deliciously nutty, then add a touch of lemon juice and drizzle the resulting sauce over the eggs. Serve these with toast or cheesy grits. This recipe was adapted from Janice Cole’s Chicken and Egg: A Memoir of Suburban Homesteading with 125 Recipes.

Yield: 1

Time: 10 minutes

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 large eggs
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Finely chopped chives, for serving

Instructions

In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, melt the butter until foamy. Crack the eggs into the skillet, turn the heat to medium-low, and cook, spooning the melted butter over the top of the eggs, until the whites are just set, about 3 minutes. Using a spatula, transfer the eggs to a plate.
Continue cooking the butter in the skillet until it’s just beginning to brown, about 2 more minutes. Add the lemon juice, swirling to combine, then drizzle the lemon-butter mixture over the eggs. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, top with chives, and serve immediately.

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How to Brown Butter

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:53:36 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross. Matt Taylor-Gross

Brown butter, also known as beurre noisette, is one of those simple-but-magical ingredients that can completely transform a dish. It can be used in place of regular butter to add depth and a toasty, nutty character to sweet and savory recipes alike, from eggs and fish to pasta dishes and snacking cakes. And it’s dead-easy to make, requiring only heat and a few minutes of patience.

Start by melting the butter in a skillet with a light-colored bottom so you can see the milk solids brown, making sure to stir and swirl the pan to get all the good bits. When the crackling quiets down and the butter is golden brown with that telltale nutty aroma, take it off the stove immediately and scrape everything into a heatproof bowl. Some recipes specifically call for straining the brown butter, but we’re generally of the no-strain school of thought—all those little flecks from the bottom of the pan add a ton of flavor.

Yield: Makes about ½ cup

Time: 6 minutes

8 Tbsp. unsalted butter

Instructions

In a medium light-colored skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. The butter will foam, then change color quickly. Cook, stirring or swirling occasionally, until the foam subsides and the butter turns golden brown and smells nutty, 3–4 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat immediately and transfer the brown butter to a heatproof bowl and allow to cool. (The brown butter will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks and in the freezer for up to 3 months.)

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