Charcuterie | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/category/charcuterie/ Eat the world. Thu, 22 Aug 2024 21:14:22 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.1 https://www.saveur.com/uploads/2021/06/22/cropped-Saveur_FAV_CRM-1.png?auto=webp&width=32&height=32 Charcuterie | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/category/charcuterie/ 32 32 Cheesy Korean Corn Dogs https://www.saveur.com/recipes/cheesy-korean-corn-dog/ Thu, 22 Aug 2024 21:14:22 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=172786&preview=1
Cheesy Korean Corn Dog
Photo: Toby Scott • Food Styling: Tamara Vos • Prop Styling: Rachel Vere (Courtesy Hardie Grant). Photo: Toby Scott • Food Styling: Tamara Vos • Prop Styling: Rachel Vere (Courtesy Hardie Grant)

These deep-fried delights play a crucial part in Seoul street food culture.

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Cheesy Korean Corn Dog
Photo: Toby Scott • Food Styling: Tamara Vos • Prop Styling: Rachel Vere (Courtesy Hardie Grant). Photo: Toby Scott • Food Styling: Tamara Vos • Prop Styling: Rachel Vere (Courtesy Hardie Grant)

This recipe is brought to you by the SAVEUR Cookbook Club, our passionate community of food-loving readers from around the globe, celebrating our favorite authors and recipes. Join us as we cook through a new book every month, and share your food pics and vids on social media with the hashtags #SAVEURCookbookClub and #EatTheWorld.

A deep-fried corn dog might not seem like a classic Korean dish, but as author Su Scott recounts in her new cookbook, Pocha: Simple Korean Food from the Streets of Seoul, it was a frequent snack for her during childhood, sold in local stationery shops called munbanggu. Hot dogs were introduced to Korea in the early 1950s via the American presence during the 625 War (or the Korean War, as it is known in the U.S.). Korean chefs have since found innovative ways to repurpose ingredients from this time of conflict into irresistible street foods. These corn dogs, hand-dipped in a donut-like batter and rolled in panko breadcrumbs, are an indulgent old-school treat and easy to make at home. 

Superfine sugar is a more finely ground version of granulated sugar. It can often be found in grocery stores, but you can also make your own by pulsing granulated sugar in a food processor for about 1 minute. A cut-up stick of string cheese also works beautifully for the cubed mozzarella called for in this recipe.

Adapted with permission from Pocha: Simple Korean Food from the Streets of Seoul by Su Scott, published by ‎Hardie Grant Publishing, June 2024.

Featured in “Pocha Takes You on a Street Food Crawl Through Seoul” by Jessica Carbone.

Yield: Makes 8
Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the batter:

  • ½ cup superfine sugar
  • 1 tsp. fine sea salt
  • 1¾ cups bread flour
  • 1 tsp. active dry yeast
  • 1 large egg, lightly beaten

For the corn dogs:

  • 4–6 hot dogs, cut into 3-in.-long pieces
  • 1 oz. low-moisture mozzarella, cut into eight ½-in. cubes
  • All-purpose flour, for dusting
  • 1¼ cups panko breadcrumbs
  • Vegetable oil, for frying
  • 2 Tbsp. superfine sugar (optional)
  • Ketchup and yellow mustard, for serving

Instructions

  1. Make the batter: In a medium bowl or liquid measuring cup, stir together the sugar, salt, and 1 cup of warm water until dissolved, about 2 minutes.
  2. In a large bowl, stir together the bread flour and yeast. Slowly pour in the sugar mixture and the egg, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the batter is well incorporated and wet yet smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. (Don’t worry if there are a few lumps.) Cover with plastic and set aside to rest in a warm place until doubled in volume, 45 minutes–1 hour.
  3. Meanwhile, onto a bamboo skewer, thread a piece of hot dog, followed by a mozzarella cube. Repeat until eight skewers are filled, then dust lightly with all-purpose flour. Set up a breading station: transfer the skewers to a large plate, fill another large with the panko, and place them both next to the bowl of prepared batter.
  4. To shape the corn dogs, hold the end of a skewer in your dominant hand and plunge it into the batter, completely covering the hot dog. Wet your non-dominant hand and use it to shape the battered dog, rotating to coat completely. Lift the corn dog out of the batter and quickly roll it in the panko to coat.
  5. Into a large pot fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour 4 inches of oil and turn the heat to medium-high. When the temperature reads 340°F, carefully lower a battered corn dog into the pot and cook, gently pushing it down with tongs or a spider skimmer if it floats to the surface, until evenly golden brown, 4–5 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the corn dog to a wire rack set over a baking sheet to drain excess oil. If desired, spread the sugar on a plate and roll the corn dog in the sugar while warm. Repeat with the remaining corn dogs.
  6. Drizzle the corn dogs with ketchup and mustard and serve warm.

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Hot Links with Chow Chow https://www.saveur.com/recipes/hot-links-chow-chow/ Fri, 14 Jun 2024 18:36:09 +0000 /?p=171183
Hot Links and Chow Chow Relish
Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

The bright, vinegary Southern relish makes an ideal foil for spicy sausages in this Juneteenth cookout classic.

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Hot Links and Chow Chow Relish
Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Hot links, a type of smoky-spicy beef or pork sausage, are a mainstay at Texas barbecues. Purists might turn up their nose at the thought of adding anything to hot links, but chef and The Juneteenth Cookbook co-author Taffy Elrod recommends topping them with chow chow, a crisp, piquant relish of quick-pickled cabbage, cucumber, and bell pepper that’s popular in the South. Any leftover chow chow can be put to work on a cheese board or as a condiment for your favorite sandwich.

Adapted from The Juneteenth Cookbook by Alliah L. Agostini, Taffy Elrod, and Sawyer Cloud. Reproduced by permission of the publisher, becker&mayer kids!, an imprint of The Quarto Group, New York, NY.

Featured in “This Cookbook Is an Open Invitation to the Juneteenth Cookout” by Jessica Carbone.

Yield: 8
Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

For the chow chow:

  • 5 oz. shredded coleslaw mix (2 cups)
  • 1 medium Kirby, hothouse, or other unwaxed cucumber (8 oz.), cut into large pieces
  • 1 small red bell pepper (6 oz.), stemmed, seeded, and cut into large pieces
  • 1 small sweet onion (6 oz.), cut into large pieces
  • 1 small jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped (optional)
  • 1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided
  • ⅓ cup sugar
  • ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
  • 2 Tbsp. Louisiana-style hot sauce, such as Trappey’s
  • 2 Tbsp. sweet-hot mustard, such as Honeycup
  • 1 tsp. celery seed
  • 1 tsp. ground turmeric
  • ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

For the hot links:

  • 8 hot link sausages
  • 8 hot dog buns or rolls

Instructions

  1. Make the chow chow: In a food processor, pulse the coleslaw mix until finely chopped, then scrape into a large stainless steel or glass bowl.
  2. In the food processor, pulse the cucumber until coarsely chopped. Transfer to the bowl with the coleslaw.
  3. In the food processor, pulse the bell pepper, onion, and jalapeño (if desired) until coarsely chopped. Scrape into the bowl with the vegetable mixture. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the salt, then cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 8–24 hours. 
  4. Drain the vegetables through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing on the vegetables with your hands to squeeze out as much liquid as possible. (If you add the jalapeño, wear disposable gloves to protect your hands.) Set aside to continue draining while you make the dressing.
  5. In a separate large bowl, whisk together the sugar, vinegar, hot sauce, mustard, celery seed, turmeric, black pepper, and the remaining salt. Stir in the drained vegetables. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4–24 hours. 
  6. Make the hot links: Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-low. Grill the hot links, turning occasionally, until they deepen in color and grill marks appear, 7–10 minutes.
  7. Grill the hot dog buns, flipping once, until lightly toasted, 1–2 minutes total. Place the hot links in the buns, then top with chow chow. Serve immediately, with any remaining chow chow on the side.

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How to Assemble a Showstopping Charcuterie Board https://www.saveur.com/techniques/how-to-assemble-charcuterie-board/ Fri, 22 Dec 2023 06:00:58 +0000 /?p=164901
Charcuterie Board
Cavan Images/iStock via Getty Images. Cavan Images/iStock via Getty Images

Whether you’re making it for a crowd or just for one, here are our tips for building a beautiful spread of meats, cheeses, and accoutrements.

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Charcuterie Board
Cavan Images/iStock via Getty Images. Cavan Images/iStock via Getty Images

Charcuterie boards don’t need an introduction at this point, do they? Despite their secure status as a classic party appetizer, these design-forward snack boards have recently surged in popularity on social media, dominating Instagram, TikTok, Pinterest and the hearts of every cheese and cured meat enthusiast on the planet. They have become the subject of many cooking classes and for some, assembling them has become an entire career. The appeal is easy to understand: they don’t involve actual cooking, which makes them more of an art project than a culinary pursuit; they don’t necessarily involve flatware, so eating one is both a refined and primal act; finally, they’re also highly customizable, and who doesn’t love a good choose-your-own-adventure type of snack? 

Depending on who is preparing it and their level of artistry, assembling a charcuterie board can be anxiety-inducing. What is the right quantity of components, and where exactly does one start when arranging them? The options are endless, plus all of those intricate, perfectly executed salami roses and prosciutto rivers we see on social media don’t help the performance anxiety. Luckily, your board doesn’t have to rival a Renaissance painting to be a hit. It all comes down to mastering the basics and choosing what you like. There are no rules in snack board land (except that choosing high-quality ingredients is key). There are, however, some best practices for getting the most out of your experience.

VeselovaElena/iStock via Getty Images

Step 1: Choose your canvas. 

A wooden cutting or serving board is an obvious first choice simply for aesthetic purposes, but any other flat serving platter or piece will do. The goal is to cover your surface, so keep in mind that the bigger the board, the more you will spend to cover it.

Step 2: Gather your equipment. 

In addition to a board, you will need a variety of small knives and spreaders and some petite bowls or ramekins for your dips, jams, olives, and the like. Toothpicks or mini forks are also helpful and prevent people from getting too handsy with the food, particularly if you do not plan to provide plates. Labels to identify cheeses and spreads are helpful as well, but not necessary (if hosting guests with known allergies, labels are more than recommended). 

Step 3: Pick your players. 

Meat: When it comes to charcuterie, meat is the name of the game. Literally. The word itself is a portmanteau of the French words for flesh and cooked, “chair” and “cuit,” respectively. Three types of meat is a good place to start, keeping in mind to use a variety of textures. Soft, pre-sliced meats like prosciutto can be paired with a harder cured meat, like salami, which guests can slice themselves. Round it all out with a spreadable option, like pâté, mousse, or a terrine. If you feel like turning on your stove, a crisped-up sliced sausage provides a pleasant and unexpected smoky element. 

When it comes to quantities, two ounces of each meat/cheese per guest is a generally accepted guideline. Double that if the charcuterie board is the entire meal. 

Cheese: You only need one type of cheese to start the party, and a universal cheese like cheddar is always a good choice. If you want a variety, go for a trio of soft, semi-soft and hard cheeses. Soft cheeses include brie, goat cheese, and burrata while Roquefort, Stilton and Gouda are semi-soft. For a harder cheese, try manchego, Gruyère or a nice aged pecorino or Parmesan. To please all palates, you could include cheeses from different milks, such as cow, goat, and sheep. While leaving cheeses whole can be visually pleasing, portioning some of it is helpful for your guests. For example, leave softer cheeses wedged and cut harder cheese into cubes. You can also purchase goat cheese pyramids or mini mozzarella balls for an even more interesting sculptural array. Cheese is best served at room temp, so make sure you pull it from the fridge at least 30 minutes before serving. For more guidance on cheese selection, check out our guide here

Spreads/Condiments: Mustards and fatty meats are a match made in heaven. Dijon, whole-grain mustard, and honey mustard are ideal mates for your meats. Other tasty options include hummus, tapenade, pesto, pimento cheese or labneh. Almost any dip or spread can benefit from a drizzle of olive oil at the end. Find some of our favorites here

Crackers: No board is complete without a sturdy, starchy vehicle to get all that deliciousness into your mouth. Crackers are classic and come in a variety of flavors. If you’re only having one option, it’s best to keep it plain so the toppings can really sing. And, depending on what you’ve stocked your board with, pick something sturdy enough to stand up to a brusque spread of brie. Mini pitas, toasted baguette slices, bagel crisps, or toast triangles also work well. 

Sweet: We all know how good a sweet-salty combo is. Assorted chutneys, jams or honey can add this balance. Sliced figs, pears or apples and grape clusters provide freshness and color, but dried fruits also work. We love a good dried apricot skewered with some prosciutto. 

Briny bits: Olives, pickled vegetables, cornichons, marinated artichokes—any of these will help balance the richness of the meat and cheese. 

Crunchies: Nuts are great for filling gaps on a board. They’re also extremely delicious with just about any cheese. Choose what you like, but we’re big fans of oily, salty Marcona almonds. Some crudités, like sliced carrots or radishes, can also add the crunch factor. 

Step 4: Build your board. 

Start by placing your larger items on the surface. Think logs of meat, larger wedges of cheese, and any bowls or ramekins. Once these anchors are down, you can go in with the “fluff.” Thinly sliced meats, assorted fruit, and fanned-out crackers can fill in the spaces nicely. Another best practice is to keep like-items grouped, so soft cheeses near soft meats and vice versa. Finish it all off with herbs or edible flowers, if you fancy.

As intimidating as charcuterie boards may seem, 90% of the work is just deciding what to put on one. Specialty food stores and butchers are good sourcing spots, but any ol’ deli counter will have options for you—Trader Joe’s and Aldi are your friends here. It doesn’t matter if you’re going for a glorified Lunchable look or stacking your board with expensive cheeses you can’t pronounce; the journey is up to you. Whether you’re serving a big party, small party, or a party of one (yourself), keep these tips in your back pocket and battle that board like a boss.

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Strawberry Rhubarb Pâte de Fruit https://www.saveur.com/recipes/strawberry-pate-de-fruit/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:31 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-strawberry-rhubarb-pate-de-fruit/
Strawberry Pate de Fruit Recipe with Rhubarb
Photography by Belle Morizio

Fruity chews with a kick of Créole shrubb.

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Strawberry Pate de Fruit Recipe with Rhubarb
Photography by Belle Morizio

Instead of coating his pâte de fruit with plain white sugar, Bay Area pastry chef William Werner flavors Demerara sugar with Clément Créole Shrubb, a liqueur made of aged and white rhum agricole and bitter orange peels.

Featured in: “Our Best Strawberry Recipes Let the Fruit Shine Like Never Before.”

Yield: 16–18
Time: 5 hours 30 minutes
  • ¾ cups raw sugar, such as demerara or turbinado
  • 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and pod reserved
  • 1 oz. Clément Créole Shrubb or Cointreau
  • 3 cups sugar, divided
  • 2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. pectin
  • Vegetable oil, for greasing
  • 12 oz. rhubarb (2 medium stalks), cleaned and coarsely chopped
  • 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. light corn syrup
  • 7 oz. strawberries, hulled
  • 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Instructions

  1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 200°F. In a small bowl, rub the vanilla seeds into the raw sugar until incorporated. Pour in the Shrubb and stir to combine. Using a silicone spatula, spread the sugar mixture in an even layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake with the oven door slightly ajar until dried, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven, and when cool enough to handle, use your hands to crumble; set aside.
  2. Oil an 8-by-8-inch baking pan and line with parchment. In a small bowl, whisk together the pectin and ¼ cup of the sugar; set aside.
  3. To a medium pot set over medium-high heat, add the vanilla pod, rhubarb, and 1 cup of the sugar and cook until the rhubarb is soft, 8–10 minutes; set aside to cool, about 45 minutes.
  4. Discard the vanilla pod and transfer the rhubarb mixture to a blender (do not clean the pot). Add the corn syrup and strawberries and purée, then pour back into the pot and turn the heat to high. When the liquid boils, whisk in the pectin mixture and cook, stirring continuously, until dissolved, 1–2 minutes. Whisk in 1 cup of the sugar and cook, stirring continuously, until dissolved, 1–2 minutes more. Repeat with the remaining sugar, then continue cooking until the mixture has thickened and a thermometer reads 175°F, about 5 minutes more. Stir in the lemon juice, then pour into the prepared pan. Let stand at room temperature until set, about 4 hours.
  5. To serve, cut the pâte de fruit into 1-inch squares and sprinkle with the reserved Shrubb sugar. (Pâte de fruit will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.)

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Hearty Vegetable Stew with Duck Confit and Cabbage (Garbure Gasconne) https://www.saveur.com/hearty-vegetable-stew-duck-confit-cabbage-recipe/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:36 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/hearty-vegetable-stew-duck-confit-cabbage-recipe/
Gascon Garbure
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

In this humble French soup, winter produce is enhanced with the Southwest region’s beloved charcuterie.

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Gascon Garbure
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

Warming, hearty, and satisfying with large chunks of sweet winter roots, charcuterie, and onion, this soup evokes the many garbures—thick cabbage stews made with ham or bacon and stale bread—of the peasantry in the Gascon region of Southwestern France. This garbure recipe was inspired by a dish writer and cooking instructor Kate Hill enjoyed at a cafe in Salies-de-Béarn. It calls for ventrèche, an unsmoked, French cured pork bellly similar to pancetta; you can find both it and duck confit via the online retailer D’Artagnan, a well-regarded supplier of French-style charcuterie.

Featured in: “In French Gascony, Duck Fat is King.”

Yield: 6
Time: 2 hours 15 minutes
  • 5–6 fresh thyme sprigs
  • One 6-inch celery stalk with leaves, or a few sprigs lovage or parsley
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 4 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
  • One 1½-lb. Savoy cabbage, cut into 6 thick wedges
  • 2 medium yellow onions, coarsely chopped
  • 2 large turnips (about 1 lb.), peeled and quartered
  • 8 oz. ventrèche, salt pork, or fresh pork belly, chopped into bite-size strips
  • 3 large medium carrots, peeled and cut into large chunks
  • 2 large leeks, rinsed well and cut into 2-in. pieces
  • 4 oz. dried white beans such as white runner or great northern, soaked overnight and drained
  • 7 garlic cloves (4 sliced, 3 halved lengthwise)
  • 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 12 whole black peppercorns
  • 2 duck confit legs, wiped clean of most of their fat
  • 1 Tbsp. duck fat or unsalted butter
  • 6 thin slices Jambon de Bayonne or prosciutto
  • 6 thick slices crusty country bread, lightly toasted

Instructions

  1. Make a bouquet garni: in a square of cheesecloth, bundle together the thyme, celery, and bay leaf; tie with kitchen twine to close, and set aside.
  2. To a large pot, add the potatoes, cabbage, onion, turnips, ventrèche, carrots, leeks, beans, sliced garlic, the bouquet garni, a tablespoon of kosher salt, and the peppercorns. Add 2 quarts of water, cover the pot, and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and continue cooking until the vegetables are tender and the beans are nearly tender, 50–60 minutes. Take the duck legs by the ankle and use them to stir the pot a few times before dropping them into the soup. Continue cooking until the beans are fully tender and the duck meat easily falls off the bone when prodded with a fork, 25–30 minutes. Let the glossy duck skin slip off into the soup, then remove and discard the bones, and coarsely chop the meat into smaller pieces.
  3. When ready to serve, prepare the garnish: In a medium skillet, warm the duck fat over medium heat. Add the Jambon de Bayonne in batches and cook in a single layer, turning once, until lightly browned and crispy, about 4 minutes per side.
  4. Rub each slice of bread with a garlic half and distribute the slices among 6 wide, shallow soup bowls. Ladle the garbure over the bread. Drape a slice of griddled ham atop each bowl and serve immediately.

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Duck and Andouille Gumbo https://www.saveur.com/duck-leg-and-andouille-sausage-gumbo-recipe/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:34:18 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/duck-leg-and-andouille-sausage-gumbo-recipe/
Duck and Andouille Gumbo
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

Fatty game bird, spicy Cajun sausage, and okra enrich chef Justin Devillier’s hearty winter stew.

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Duck and Andouille Gumbo
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

For his take on Cajun gumbo, chef Justin Devillier of La Petite Grocery in New Orleans uses rendered duck fat in the roux instead of butter and quartered ducks in lieu of the classic chicken. In this duck and andouille gumbo recipe, we’ve called for only duck legs, which stay tender during a low-and-slow cooking process and won’t run the risk of drying out like breast meat.

Featured in: “The Hunter’s Way to Cook a Louisiana Thanksgiving.”

Yield: 8-10
Time: 5 hours
  • 8 duck legs (about 6 lb.), fat trimmed, thighs and drumsticks separated
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 12 thyme sprigs
  • 1 fresh sage sprig
  • 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. (5 oz.) all-purpose flour
  • 2 Tbsp. hot sauce
  • 2 Tbsp. sweet paprika
  • 1 Tbsp. cayenne pepper
  • 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 lb. andouille sausage, cut crosswise into ¼-in.-thick coins
  • 1 lb. okra, cut crosswise into ⅓-in.-thick coins
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Cooked white rice, for serving

Instructions

  1. In a large skillet, place the duck thighs skin side down in a single layer, then place the skillet over medium heat. Cook until the thighs are deep golden brown on one side, about 40 minutes. Flip the thighs and continue cooking until browned on the opposite side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer the thighs to a plate, then add the drumsticks to the skillet, skin side down, and cook until deep golden brown on one side, about 20 minutes. Flip the drumsticks and continue cooking until browned on the other side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer the drumsticks to the plate with the thighs and pour the rendered fat from the skillet into a heatproof measuring cup. Set 1 cup of the fat aside, and save the remainder for another use. (Duck fat keeps very well in the freezer for up to 3 months.)
  2. Return the skillet to medium heat, add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet, until the onions are soft and just beginning to brown, 6–10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
  3. Make a bouquet garni: in a large square of cheesecloth, bundle together the thyme and sage sprigs; tie with kitchen twine to close, and set aside.
  4. In a large pot, heat the cup of reserved duck fat over medium-low. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring continuously, until the roux turns dark brown, 30–40 minutes. Scrape the cooled onion-garlic mixture into the roux, then stir in the hot sauce, paprika, cayenne, and Worcestershire. Add the reserved duck pieces and herb bouquet to the pot, followed by the andouille, okra, and 10 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the duck meat is falling off the bone, about 2 hours.
  5. Season the gumbo with salt and black pepper to taste, ladle into wide bowls, and serve hot with rice.

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Baked Spanish Rice with Chorizo, Chickpeas, and Raisins https://www.saveur.com/recipes/baked-spanish-chorizo-rice/ Mon, 09 Jan 2023 16:03:38 +0000 /?p=152813
Arroz al Horno
Photo: David Malosh • Food Styling: Pearl Jones • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio. Photo: David Malosh • Food Styling: Pearl Jones • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio

Conjure up the flavors of Moorish Spain with arroz al horno, a foolproof one-pot main that starts on the stove and finishes in the oven.

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Arroz al Horno
Photo: David Malosh • Food Styling: Pearl Jones • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio. Photo: David Malosh • Food Styling: Pearl Jones • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio

Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s weeknight cooking column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest ideas that require just one pot, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

Paella gets so much attention that it eclipses Spain’s other, equally worthy, rice dishes—like this one-pot arroz al horno, or baked rice with chickpeas. The dish is primo Valencian comfort food, and I love its Moorish undertones (saffron! cinnamon! dried fruit!)—a reminder that Arabs brought rice to the Iberian Peninsula in the 7th century. Happily, the paella police are indifferent about arroz al horno, so feel free to play around: Don’t like raisins? Nix them (or sub prunes or apricots). In your plant-based era? Simply skip the chorizo and up the chickpea quotient.

Yield: 4
Time: 1 hour 30 minutes
  • ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 2½ lb. Spanish-style chorizo, sliced ¾-in. thick
  • 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
  • 1 large red bell pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped (1 cup)
  • 1 Tbsp. red pepper paste, such as choricero, ñora, or ají panca, or 1 tsp. sweet (unsmoked) paprika
  • 1 Tbsp. tomato paste
  • ¼ cup dry sherry
  • 3¼ cup chicken or vegetable stock, or water
  • Pinch cinnamon
  • Large pinch saffron threads
  • One 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained (1½ cups)
  • ½ cup raisins
  • Kosher salt
  • 1½ cups short- or medium-grain rice, such as carnaroli, arborio, or Goya medium-grain (see footnote)
  • Finely chopped chives, for garnish

Instructions

  1. To a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and enough chorizo to cover the bottom of the pan without overcrowding. Cook, turning once, until crisped on both sides, 5–7 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate, then repeat with any remaining chorizo and set aside. Discard any accumulated fat and return the pot to the stove.
  2. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400ºF. To the empty pot, add the remaining olive oil, garlic, onions, and bell pepper and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is jammy and browned, about 20 minutes (do not rush this step). Stir in the red pepper paste and tomato paste and cook for 5 minutes more. Add the sherry, bring to a boil, then add the stock, cinnamon, saffron, chickpeas, raisins, reserved chorizo, and salt to taste and return to a boil.
  3. Add the rice, bring to a boil again, then bake, uncovered, until the rice is al dente and the liquid is absorbed, 20–25 minutes. Remove from the oven, cover, and let stand until the rice is just tender, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the chives and serve hot or warm.

Note: If using Spanish bomba or Calasparra rice (which absorb more liquid), increase the stock to 4½ cups and the cooking time by roughly 10 minutes.  

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Basturma, Baby! Make Your Own Armenian Charcuterie https://www.saveur.com/story/food/basturma-cured-beef/ Fri, 28 Feb 2020 19:50:14 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/basturma-cured-beef/
Basturma
Adapted from Lavash: The bread that launched 1,000 meals, plus salads, stews, and other recipes from Armenia by Kate Leahy, Ara Zada, and John Lee. Kat Craddock

This easy-to-DIY cured meat delivers a power punch of spice.

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Basturma
Adapted from Lavash: The bread that launched 1,000 meals, plus salads, stews, and other recipes from Armenia by Kate Leahy, Ara Zada, and John Lee. Kat Craddock

Basturma is to Armenia what bresaola is to Italy and cecina is to Spain—a ruddy hunk of air-dried beef with more umami punch per mouthful than the fanciest dry-aged steak—except it’s far more exciting. Unlike its simply-salted European brethren, basturma is garlicky and piquant and spiced with industrial quantities of paprika and fenugreek. It’s the type of cheese board item that draws instant oohs and aahs thanks to its crimson core and out-in-left-field flavor profile.

As far as charcuterie goes, basturma is shockingly easy to make, as we learned in this month’s installment of Saveur Cookbook Club featuring Lavash, by Kate Leahy, Ara Zada, and John Lee. You don’t need a meat grinder, sausage casings, or any other gourmet gewgaws to make basturma; the hardest part of this recipe is probably clearing a shelf in the fridge, or finding a two-week stretch when you’ll be home to occasionally drain, flip, spice, and hang the meat. (That said, even the curing times are forgiving.) But before we get ahead of ourselves, let’s delve a little deeper into this iconic Armenian snack.

Basturma’s Beginnings: Saddle Salami?

Basturma has two origin stories, one romantic and one…well, more likely. The former posits that the dish was invented by Central Asian horsemen. Before heading to battle, they would wedge fresh beefsteaks beneath their saddles. As they rode, the animal’s sweat—whew, stay with us—would salt the meat, while the constant pounding would tenderize it, yielding a protein-packed snack fit for quick consumption. (To our mind, the jury’s still out on what’s more hazardous: going to war or eating horsehair-covered carrion.)

Though saddle salami makes for a colorful tale, it’s more probable that basturma hails from the Byzantine city of Caesaria Mazaca (now called Kayseri) in present-day Turkey, where the ancient technique of pastron (salt-curing) is said to have been perfected by Armenians in Late Antiquity. In fact, basturma-making was such a popular vocation among medieval Armenians that Basturmajian (“basturma maker”) became a family name that’s still in use today.

Today: Armenia’s Signature Charcuterie

Basturma is beloved to Armenians. In the country’s capital, Yerevan, the best place to enjoy this lean, air-dried beef flavored with garlic and chemen (the mix of pungent spices that’s heavy on fenugreek and paprika) is while sitting at the outdoor cafe named in its honor. Basturma, located on Abovyan Street in the city’s center, is owned by Jirair Avanian, also the proprietor of nearby Dolmama, one of Yerevan’s first, and still-venerated, fine-dining restaurants. Avanian had the idea right with this tiny location, as it is always packed with people leisurely enjoying a glass of wine while they snack on basturma and people-watch.

How To: A DIY Primer

So, what defines a perfect basturma? Experts will tell you that the meat’s center must be deep red, a sign of freshness and expert curing. On the exterior, the spice coating, or chemen (sometimes chaman), should be fresh and fragrant on the nose and packed on generously. Most importantly, the meat must be stiff all the way through with a low moisture content, which translates to a long shelf life. Here are a few important tips from the authors on making basturma at home.

basturma hanging in a fridge
Traditionally, basturma is aged in a cool, dark place at room temperature, but an uncluttered fridge gets the job done in warmer climates. Kat Craddock

Choose the right cut. Leahy et al. recommend using eye of round—a lean, dense cut from the the upper hind leg of the cow. Fattier cuts don’t have the right fibrous texture and won’t dry out properly. (They’ll also spoil faster.) Other Armenian cookbooks recommend beef tenderloin; when in doubt, ask your butcher for a lean yet tender cut, and opt for the best-quality beef available.

Find a cool corner. To prevent spoilage and ensure the right consistency, hang the basturma someplace dry that doesn’t exceed 70 degrees Fahrenheit. A cold basement or wine fridge is ideally suited to curing, though a standard refrigerator will work in a pinch—just plan ahead, since at cooler temperatures, the meat will take longer to cure.

spiced meat hanging in a fridge
A pungent mix of spices called chemen is the key to this meat’s flavorful cure. Kat Craddock

Check the expiration date on your spices. This recipe is all about the bold, floral flavors of Caucasian spices, but the most prominent one, fenugreek—ideally the Caucasian blue variety, available here—loses its tang more quickly than most. Source your spices from a trustworthy source, and make sure they’re less than a year old.

sliced basturma
Don’t be alarmed if the meat darkens at the edges. Unlike most charcuterie products, which are made with nitrates, basturma will oxidize and change color slightly as it makes contact with the air. Kat Craddock

Shave paper-thin slices. Basturma’s soft, melt-on-your-tongue texture is half its allure, so clumsy chunks won’t do. Gearheads with meat slicers (like this beauty from Chefschoice) will have no problem churning out paper-thin ribbons, but for those of us doing the job by hand, Leahy et al. recommend throwing the basturma into the freezer twenty minutes before slicing and then reaching for the sharpest knife you own.

Think outside the board. Yes, fanned-out slices of carpaccio-esque basturma look fabulous on a charcuterie board, but basturma is equally delectable sandwiched between fluffy slices of Armenian matnakash or your favorite bread—just add pickled veggies and perhaps a scraggle of chechil (Armenian string cheese). Chopped into tiny bits, basturma also adds a pleasant funk to tossed salads and a meaty depth to omelets (wrap the egg up in lavash for the Armenian version of the breakfast burrito), garlicky mashed potatoes, and even mac ‘n cheese.

Yield: makes 3 lbs 8 oz
Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the meat:

  • 4 lb. eye of round beef roast
  • 1 lb. kosher salt

For the seasoning:

  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> cup ground fenugreek (preferably blue fenugreek)
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> cup sweet paprika
  • 1 tbsp. ground allspice
  • 1 tbsp. freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tsp. cayenne pepper
  • 2 tsp. ground cumin
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt
  • 8 large garlic cloves

Instructions

  1. Cut the eye of round roast in half crosswise (against the grain) so that it is easier to handle. Each piece should be about 2 inches thick. Using a skewer, poke the pieces all over so that the salt can penetrate the meat. Spread a thick layer of salt in a 9- by 13-inch roasting pan and place the meat on top. Coat all sides of both pieces with more salt so that the meat is barely visible. Cover and refrigerate for 2 days. (After 2 days, the salt will have drawn out a lot of liquid from the meat.)
  2. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Drain the meat and rinse off the salt. Submerge the meat in the cold water for at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours. (This will draw out any excess salt.)
  3. Remove the meat from the water and thoroughly dry each piece with paper towels, pressing down to remove as much moisture as possible. Wrap the meat completely in dry paper towels and place on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Place a second large baking sheet on top of the meat, then weigh down the top pan with a few 28-oz. cans of tomatoes or something similar in weight. Refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight.
  4. Find a place to hang the meat as it cures, preferably in a clean room that never exceeds 70°F, with some airflow. Next, uncover the meat and remove and discard the paper towels. The beef should be flat and slightly firm to the touch. With a skewer, pierce each piece about 1 inch from one end. Tie a piece of butcher’s twine in a knot on one end of the skewer and, leaving the other end of the twine long enough to hang the meat from the desired spot, thread it through the hole in the first piece of beef. Repeat with a second length of twine and the other piece of beef. Hang the meat up by the string and allow it to air-dry for 5–10 days, or until the pieces of beef feel as firm as a nearly-ripe avocado. (Alternatively, hang the meat in the refrigerator for 8 to 14 days. You may place a rimmed baking sheet underneath, though the meat should be dry from the cure and no longer dripping.)
  5. Take the meat down, leaving the string in place, and transfer it to a large, clean baking sheet. Set aside.
  6. In a medium bowl, mix together the fenugreek, paprika, allspice, black pepper, cayenne, cumin, and salt. In a small food processor, puree the garlic with ½ cup cold water. Add the garlic puree to the bowl of spices and mix thoroughly. Pour in an additional ½ cup cold water, or more as needed, until the mixture resembles thick pancake batter. Smear the spice mixture all over the meat in a thin (about ⅛ of an inch), even layer. Rehang the meat for 2–3 more days (3–5 days in the fridge), or until the spice mixture is firm and dry to the touch. At this point, the basturma is ready to eat. To serve, slice as thinly as possible against the grain with a sharp knife. Store the basturma wrapped tightly in plastic wrap in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

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Fig, Plum, and Prosciutto Salad with Kaltbach Le Crémeux Cheese https://www.saveur.com/fig-plum-and-prosciutto-salad-with-kaltbach-le-cremeux-cheese-recipe/ Fri, 13 Sep 2019 18:37:54 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/fig-plum-and-prosciutto-salad-with-kaltbach-le-cremeux-cheese-recipe/
Fig, Plum, and Prosciutto Salad with Kaltbach Le Crémeux Cheese
Photography by SAVEUR Editors

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Fig, Plum, and Prosciutto Salad with Kaltbach Le Crémeux Cheese
Photography by SAVEUR Editors

In the past month, I’ve traveled from L.A. to the Catskills to Rome to, finally Hungary, where we welcomed the first taste of fall in the lush countryside. The flavors of my travels mingle effortlessly, but if there’s been one constant, it’s the grazing of melons, stone fruits, and figs—sun-ripened and dripping with juices—with the deep umami satisfaction of cured meat and cheese.

In Los Angeles, we ate peaches and burrata on pizza, laced with brick-red ‘nduja. In Rome, there were achingly sweet melons, piled with prosciutto, ribboned and unctuous. And in Hungary, where we make peace with summer’s passing, we layer figs and plums in heaps on a platter with sonka (Hungarian ham) or prosciutto, and our favorite of all creamy cheeses—Emmi Kaltbach Le Crémeux.

There are no wrong turns in this choose-your-own adventure. The meat could be any cured ham (prosciutto, Black Forest ham, jamón). The fruits need to only be ripe and fresh, tender-fleshed and sweet. For the greens, young basil and sorrel leaves are right at home, but a sprinkling of radicchio or watercress is welcome here, too. Drizzle the whole thing with extra-virgin olive oil—your best—plus Maldon salt and freshly cracked pepper. For il tocco finale, as the Italians would say, shave over creamy, cave-aged Emmi Kaltbach Le Crémeux cheese.

I love Kaltbach Le Crémeux’s just-salty-enough finish, but it’s the tender meltability that draws me to it here. It’s the kind of texture that will soften into the fruit in the warm autumn sun as you wait for friends to gather. Be generous, but keep your shavings melt-in-the-mouth thin.

Yield: serves 4
Time: 15 minutes
  • 6 medium or 8 small plums (any variety), pitted and quartered
  • 4 to 6 ripe figs (any variety), halved
  • 1 cup pungent greens, such as red-veined sorrel, radicchio, or watercress
  • ⅓ cup basil leaves (any variety)
  • 4 oz. thinly sliced cured ham, such as prosciutto, jàmon, or sonka (Hungarian ham)
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Flaky salt, such as Maldon salt or fleur de sel
  • Freshly cracked black pepper
  • 4 oz. Emmi Kaltbach Le Crémeux cheese, shaved thin with a vegetable peeler

Instructions

  1. Toss together the plums, figs, greens, and basil leaves and arrange on a large platter, leaving the cut side of the plums and figs up to collect pools of oil. Drape or arrange the prosciutto over the fruit. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Shave the cheese over the top with a vegetable peeler and serve at room temperature.  

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Iberian Cured Pork Lomo Tartare https://www.saveur.com/iberian-cured-pork-lomo-tartare-recipe/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:38:12 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/iberian-cured-pork-lomo-tartare-recipe/
Tartare de Filet de Boeuf (Steak Tartare)
Landon Nordeman

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Tartare de Filet de Boeuf (Steak Tartare)
Landon Nordeman
lomo
Considered one of the finest forms of Spanish charcuterie, lomo embuchado — a dry-cured pork tenderloin dusted with pimenton, wrapped, and set to cure for two months or more — is meaty, lean, and intensely flavorful. Served sliced thin to enhance the enjoyably chewy texture, it’s at its best paired with something fruity, fatty, or both: drizzled with olive oil, or eaten in the same bite as an olive or piquillo pepper. Maxime Iattoni

Acorn-fed pata negra lomo, a salty, dry-cured Spanish pork loin, is delicious on its own. But chef Israel Ramos, of Restaurante Albalá, makes a case for its tartare-ization. The lomo is best cut into tiny cubes with a very sharp knife, and the dish best eaten alongside fino or manzanilla, ideally en rama.

sherry maker

In Jerez, a sherry maker and a criminologist have embarked on a quest to find the oldest, most potent casks of amontillado (and discover why it just makes food taste better).

Featured in: Sherry Goes With Everything »

What You Will Need

Yield: serves 2
Time: 10 minutes
  • 2 tsp. mayonnaise
  • 1 tbsp. finely minced capers
  • 1 tbsp. minced chives
  • 1 tbsp. finely minced white onion
  • <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. soy sauce
  • 3 oz. lomo ibérico (dry-cured Spanish pork loin), cut into 1/8- to 1/4-inch cubes
  • Toasted sliced bread, for serving

Instructions

  1. In a small bowl, add the mayonnaise, capers, chives, onion, soy sauce, and 1 teaspoon cold water; stir to combine.
  2. In a medium ramekin, combine the lomo with 2 tablespoons of the sauce. Press down to compress the mixture into an even layer in the bottom of the ramekin, then invert over a small serving plate to unmold the tartare. Garnish the plate with the remaining sauce. Serve with the toasted bread.

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Chicken Liver Pâté with Blini and Pickled Grapes https://www.saveur.com/chicken-liver-pate-blini-pickled-grapes-recipe/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:44 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/chicken-liver-pate-blini-pickled-grapes-recipe/
Chicken Liver Pâté with Blini and Pickled Grapes
Get the recipe for Chicken Liver Pâté with Blini and Pickled Grapes ». Simon Bajada

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Chicken Liver Pâté with Blini and Pickled Grapes
Get the recipe for Chicken Liver Pâté with Blini and Pickled Grapes ». Simon Bajada

Known as pashtet, this traditional Russian chicken liver pâté gets its gentle sweetness and balanced flavor from being puréed with butter-sautéed carrots and onions. Though not a traditional Russian pairing, the fluffy yeasted blini, known as oladyi, and tart pickled grapes (the chefs use local white sultanas) brighten and soften the liver’s flavor.

Sleepy Vendor at Danilovsky Market
Sleepy Vendor at Danilovsky Market
Yield: serves 10-12
Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the marinated grapes and blini

  • 1 cup muscat or other dry white wine
  • 1 cup white wine vinegar
  • <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. sugar
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. kosher salt
  • 2 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> cups green grapes, halved (14 oz.)
  • 3 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cups all-purpose flour
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cup sunflower or vegetable oil
  • 2 tbsp. fresh yeast
  • 1 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. sugar
  • <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. kosher salt
  • 2 large eggs
  • 5 tbsp. unsalted butter

For the pâté

  • 6 tbsp. (3 oz.) unsalted butter
  • 1 lb. chicken livers, cleaned
  • 1 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 2 cups diced white onion (8 oz.)
  • 1 cup diced carrots (5 oz.)
  • 3 tbsp. red wine

Instructions

  1. Note: The marinated grapes require overnight resting. Marinate the grapes: In a 1-quart jar, combine the white wine, vinegar, sugar, and salt. Shake or stir well, then add the grapes. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
  2. An hour before serving, make the blini batter: In a large bowl, whisk the flour, 2 1⁄3 cups water, the oil, yeast, sugar, salt, and eggs until well combined. Let stand at room temperature until risen and bubbly, about 1 hour.
  3. Meanwhile, make the pâté: In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt 4 tablespoons butter. Once hot, add the chicken livers and season with 3⁄4 teaspoon salt; cook, turning occasionally, until just heated through, 10–12 minutes total. Remove to a food processor. In the same skillet over medium-high heat, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Add the onion, carrot, and remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 8 minutes.
  4. In a food processor or blender, put the vegetable mixture and the prepared liver. Season generously with salt and add the red wine; blend or process until very smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Press the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve if a smoother consistency is desired. Pâté can be served warm or at room temperature and can be made up to 2 days ahead.
  5. When ready to serve, place a paper towel-lined platter or a rack set over a baking sheet next to the stove. Whisk the blini batter briefly. In a medium nonstick skillet, melt 1⁄2 tablespoon butter over medium-high heat. Drop scoops of the batter by the tablespoon into the pan, leaving room between the blini; cook, turning once, until golden, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to the rack or paper towel-lined platter and repeat with the remaining butter and batter (work quickly to avoid burning the butter).
  6. To serve, spread the pâté on blini and top with grapes.

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