Mediterranean | Saveur

Aïoli Provençal

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:11 +0000

Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Olivia Mack McCool • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio. Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Olivia Mack McCool • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio

This traditional aïoli recipe comes to us from the inn Relais Notre-Dame in Alpes de Haute Provence. The garlicky sauce perfectly illustrates Provence’s culinary touchstones: simple preparations and local ingredients. Throughout Southern France, the silky, mayo-like condiment is served alongside meats, seafood, and raw or roasted vegetables as the centerpiece of a “grand aïoli.”We find it just as delicious paired with crispy frites.

Yield: about 2 cups

Time: 13 minutes

6 cloves garlic, peeled
Coarse salt
2 large egg yolks
2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Instructions

To the bowl of a mortar, add the garlic and a generous pinch of salt. Use the pestle to pound the mixture into a smooth paste. Working with the pestle or a whisk, beat the egg yolks into garlic until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. Begin adding the oil a few drops at a time, beating continuously, until the sauce begins to emulsify. (The flow of oil can be increased to a fine stream as the sauce comes together.) Once all the oil has been added, add the lemon juice a teaspoon at a time to thin, if desired. Season to taste with salt. Use immediately, or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

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Avgolemono

Diane Kochilas — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:37:29 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

There are iterations of egg- and lemon-based soups all over the world, but this classic avgolemono recipe belongs to the Mediterranean. This simple Greek soup of eggs, lemons, and chicken broth is adapted from chef Diane Kochilas’ The Country Cooking of Greece and can be made using orzo pasta instead of rice.

Yield: 8

Time: 35 minutes

8 cups chicken stock
1 cup long-grain white rice
4 large eggs
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Parsley leaves, for garnish

Instructions

In a medium pot set over high heat, bring the stock to a boil. Turn down the heat to medium and stir in the rice; partially cover the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes.
In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and lemon juice together until frothy. Whisk 1 cup of the simmering stock into the egg-lemon juice mixture, then whisk the egg-lemon juice-stock mixture back to the pot. Cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot continuously, until the broth thickens, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat,and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Ladle the avgolemono into wide bowls, garnish each serving with fresh parsley, and serve hot.

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Atún con Tomate (Tuna and Tomato Stew)

Benjamin Kemper — Thu, 29 Sep 2022 19:37:38 +0000

Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Olivia Mack McCool; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio. Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Olivia Mack McCool; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest cooking ideas that require just one pot, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

“ATÚN CON TOMATE” read the chalkboard of daily lunch specials at La Amarilla in Madrid, the kind of no-nonsense neighborhood taberna with crinkly paper tablecloths and olive pits on the floor. The dish was the only main course that hadn’t been 86’d, but it sounded too simple to be any good. Really? I thought to myself. Tuna with tomato sauce… That’s it?

Indeed, it was. But if there’s one thing to know about Spaniards and their fish, it’s that the simple is often sublime. La Amarilla’s atún con tomate was anything but bland, and I’ve been ordering it—and making it at home—ever since. The dish starts with good tomate frito, the silky Spanish mother sauce of plum tomatoes, onions, and enough fruity olive oil to turn it bright red-orange. Into the puréed tomate go hunks of ocean-fresh tuna, which poach to flaky perfection in a matter of minutes. And as they say in Spain, ya está.

At La Amarilla (and in abuelas’ kitchens the country over), that’s where the recipe ends. Me, I like to liven things up with a garlic-parsley oil that pops against the vivid red sauce. Served with a crusty baguette for sponging up the juices, atún con tomate is peasant food for the gods.

Note: If you can find albacore (“bonito” in Spanish), use it here—it’s the traditional choice in this dish, which is also called bonito con tomate. That said, any ultra-fresh, thick-cut tuna steak that passes the smell test will do. Swordfish or mackerel may also be substituted.

Yield: 4

Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

3 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley leaves
2½ tsp. kosher salt, divided
3 small garlic cloves, finely chopped, divided
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 small Cubanelle or green bell pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped
6 medium plum tomatoes (2 lb.), coarsely chopped
½ tsp. sugar
2 lb. tuna steaks (1–1½ in. thick), skin and any pin bones removed, cut into 1½-in. cubes (see note)

Instructions

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the parsley, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and one of the garlic cloves to a paste. Stir in ¼ cup of the oil and set aside. (Alternatively, add all ingredients to a small food processor and pulse until combined.)
To a large pot set over medium heat, add the remaining oil and garlic, the onion, Cubanelle pepper, and 1 teaspoon of the salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are pale golden and completely soft, about 20 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, sugar, and remaining teaspoon of salt and bring to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-high and cover. Continue boiling, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have nearly broken down, about 9 minutes. Uncover and cook at a simmer until the sauce begins to thicken, about 14 minutes more. Remove from the heat.
Using an immersion blender, carefully purée the sauce. Add the tuna, turn the heat to medium, and cover. Cook, undisturbed, until the tuna is just cooked through, about 9 minutes.
To serve, ladle the atún con tomate into bowls and drizzle with the parsley oil.

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Fava Bean, Radish, and Pomegranate Fattoush

Matt Wilkinson — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:16 +0000

Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Olivia Mack McCool; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Fava beans add a creamy heft to this take on the Levantine bread salad from Australia-based chef Matt Wilkinson. This fattoush recipe first appeared with the 2015 SAVEUR 100 item Salad All Day.

Yield: serves 2-4

Time: 30 minutes

One 8-in. pita bread
¼ cups olive oil, plus more for brushing
½ tsp. ground cumin
1 cup fresh or frozen fava beans
1 cup mint leaves, coarsely chopped
1 cup parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
¾ cups pomegranate seeds
4 red radishes, thinly sliced
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
Juice of 1 lemon
½ tsp. sumac
Flaky sea salt
Plain full-fat Greek yogurt, for serving (optional)

Instructions

Heat the oven to 375°F. Place the bread on a parchment-lined baking sheet and brush lightly with water; bake until slightly crisp, about 10 minutes. Brush the toasted bread with olive oil, sprinkle with cumin and set aside until cool enough to handle. Tear the pita into 1-inch pieces.
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add the beans and cook for 2 minutes; drain the favas, discarding the cooking liquid, then immediately transfer to a bowl of ice water until cold. Drain again, and pop the beans from their skins; coarsely chop the beans and transfer them to a medium bowl. Stir in the remaining oil, the mint, parsley, pomegranate seeds, radishes, onion, and lemon juice. Add the reserved bread, sumac, and salt to taste; toss to combine. Serve at room temperature with yogurt on the side if desired.

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Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

From a fragrant Mexican soup to verdent pesto to Egypt’s national dish, ful medames, here are our favorite ways to use the bright green pods.

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Cauliflower-Corn Tostadas with Salsa Macha

Fatima Khawaja — Mon, 15 Aug 2022 20:07:46 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAOLA + MURRAY; FOOD STYLING BY BARRETT WASHBURNE; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

Welcome to SAVEUR’s column on how to cook local produce according to our test kitchen manager, Fatima Khawaja. This is where you’ll find creative, unfussy meal ideas plus plenty of cooking advice—like what to do with that bumper crop of zucchini or how to store delicate heirloom tomatoes. Every other week, Fatima hits the farmers market and chooses a peak-season ingredient to explore in depth. Follow along, and you’ll learn how to turn the season’s bounty into easy plant-based meals that’ll be on the table in under an hour.

Dark and nutty with warm spice, salsa macha is part oil, part chiles, nuts, and seeds. If you like the hot, garlicky punch of chili crisp, you won’t be able to get enough of Mexico’s sauce hailing from Veracruz and Oaxaca. Salsa macha gets its earthy flavor from guajillo chiles and smoky notes from moritas, and just a spoonful adds texture and layered heat to everything it touches.

In my time as a line cook at the popular Mexican restaurant Cosme in New York City, I would spoon salsa macha over every order of tlayudas. That’s where I first encountered the sauce—surrounded by corn and chiles, scrambling to get through the restaurant’s notoriously frenetic dinner rush. I loved it so much that I would hide some in my lowboy (a refrigerator under a workstation) to secretly drizzle over the day’s staff meal.

Traveling around Mexico this summer, I was reminded of my love for the coastal condiment. At brunch one morning at Paradero Hotel in Todos Santos, visiting chef Daniel Burns showed up with a charred shrimp tostada topped generously with salsa macha. Suddenly, I was right back at Cosme, measuring and deseeding the chiles and blending the salsa to its pleasantly coarse consistency. But something was different—whereas peanuts were blended into the sauce at Cosme, here, I learned, cashews were thrown into the mix along with sesame seeds and guajillo chiles. And that’s the beauty of salsa macha: It’s endlessly adaptable.

Back in New York, I kept up the momentum. This week, when I saw colorful heads of cauliflower popping up at the farmers market (they’ll be around through late fall in these parts), it struck me that the vegetable could make a perfect companion to salsa macha. Roasted with sweet summery corn, piled on a crispy tostada, and doused in the peppery mixture, cauliflower-macha tostadas are now a staple in my kitchen. Honestly, though? They’re just a vessel for me to eat more of my favorite salsa.

If cauliflower isn’t for you, or if you have leftover salsa macha, try it on brothy noodles, eggs, or even roast chicken.

Yield: 2½ cups

Time: 1 hour

2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil, or vegetable oil, divided
Eight 6-in. corn tortillas, warmed
6 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
4 dried árbol chiles, stemmed and seeded
4 dried morita chiles, stemmed and seeded
1 dried guajillo chile, stemmed and seeded
¾ cup raw cashews (3¾ oz.)
6 garlic cloves
½ cup white sesame seeds
1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar, plus more to taste
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
4 ears of corn (2 lb.), shucked
1 small head of cauliflower or romanesco (about 1½ lb.), cored and cut into 1-in. florets
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400ºF. To a medium pot set over medium-high heat, add 2 cups of the oil. When it’s shimmering and hot, one by one fry the tortillas, using tongs to turn once, until crisp and lightly browned, about 2 minutes each. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate.
Make the salsa: In the same oil, working in batches, fry the chiles, turning frequently, until fragrant and darkened slightly, 3–4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate.
Turn the heat to medium-low and add the cashews and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 3–4 minutes. Remove from the heat, then use a slotted spoon to transfer to the plate with the chiles. Set the oil aside until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes.
To a blender, add the chiles (using your hands to crumble them slightly), reserved cashews and garlic, the sesame seeds, vinegar, and reserved oil and pulse until coarse (the sesame seeds should mostly remain whole). Season with salt and additional vinegar, if desired.
Make the tostadas: Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. With the corn lying flat on a cutting board, slice off the kernels and transfer to the baking sheet, discarding the cobs. Add the cauliflower, the remaining oil, the salt, and black pepper and toss to combine. Spread the mixture in an even layer, then bake, turning halfway through cooking, until the cauliflower is deep golden brown and beginning to soften, about 25 minutes.
To serve, arrange the tostadas on a serving platter, then mound evenly with the cauliflower mixture. Drizzle each with 1–2 teaspoons of salsa macha. (The sauce will keep at room temperature for at least 2 weeks; stir well before serving.)

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Ajvar (Roasted Pepper and Eggplant Spread)

Craig Cavallo — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:32:31 +0000

MATT TAYLOR-GROSS

As versatile as ketchup, this smoky, sweet, and savory condiment known as ajvar was adapted from one served at Tim Wiechmann’s now-defunct Playska, a Balkan-style sandwich shop in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Featured in: “International Schmear: The Ketchup and Mayo of the Balkans.”

Yield: makes 3 cups

Time: 30 minutes

4 large red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and quartered
large eggplant, trimmed and halved lengthwise
6 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 500°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil.
Arrange the peppers and eggplant halves skin-side-up on the lined-baking sheet. Scatter the garlic around the vegetables, then drizzle with the olive oil and season lightly with salt. Bake until the peppers and eggplant are lightly charred, about 15 minutes. Set aside at room temperature to cool slightly.
Transfer the cooled vegetables to a food processor and purée until smooth. Season to taste with more salt as needed. Use immediately or spoon the sauce into an airtight container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

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Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Barrett Washburne; Prop Styling by Carla Gonzalez-Hart

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Sunchoke Hummus

Ian Connolly — Sun, 26 Sep 2021 22:20:00 +0000

Photography: Paul Sirisalee; Food Styling: Eugene Jho

Tahini and lemon accent the earthy, nutty quality of Jerusalem artichokes in this creamy appetizer. At Elaine Murphy’s The Woollen Mills in Dublin, chef Ian Connolly serves it drizzled with aromatic paprika oil and pile of hot crisp baked sweet potato wedges for dipping.

Featured in: “10 Ingredients We’re Obsessed With.”

Yield: makes 3 1/2 cups

Time: 1 hour 40 minutes

2 lb. sunchokes, scrubbed clean
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. coriander seeds
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. fennel seeds
2 tsp. sweet paprika
¹⁄₂ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
¹⁄₂ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
¹⁄₃ cup tahini
¹⁄₄ cup fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp. coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Roasted sweet potato wedges or pita for serving

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spread the sunchokes on a large rimmed baking sheet and tightly cover with foil. Bake until the sunchokes are very soft, about 45 minutes. Transfer the sheet to a rack and set aside, still covered, until cool enough to handle. Uncover, then use your hands to peel the sunchokes, discarding the peels.
Meanwhile, in a small skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander and fennel seeds until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the paprika and chile flakes and cook, stirring, for 30 more seconds. Scrape the spices into a blender along with the olive oil and blend until very smooth. Let the spices steep in the oil for 30 minutes, then pour the oil through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl; discard any solids.
In a food processor, combine the chickpeas and garlic and puree until smooth. Add the cooked sunchokes along with the tahini and lemon juice and puree until very smooth, at least 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, then scrape the hummus into a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the reserved paprika oil, sprinkle with parsley, and serve with sweet potato wedges or pita, for scooping.

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Santori Sunrise Punch

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:22:46 +0000

The recipe for this Mediterranean take on the Tequila Sunrise comes to us from the New York City restaurant Molyvos. Try using a Greek honey infused with thyme or rosemary for a more pronounced floral sweetness, or swap out the vodka for ouzo for an intoxicating punch of licorice flavor. Todd Coleman

MAKES PUNCH FOR 4

**
**

INGREDIENTS

8 slices pink grapefruit, quartered (32 total pieces)

16 mint leaves, plus more for garnish

2 parts honey (Greek honey, if available)

5 parts vodka

4 parts freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice

3 parts Campari

INSTRUCTIONS

In a large punch bowl, muddle most of the grapefruit slices (save 4 for slices for garnish) together with mint and honey. Add chilled vodka, cold grapefruit juice, and Campari, stir well. Serve over ice garnishing each glass with quarter slice of grapefruit and additional mint leaves.

Note: To make grapefruit-infused vodka, slice 1 pink grapefruit and stuff it into a sterilized 1 quart glass jar. Pour over 2¼ cups unflavored vodka, or until grapefruit is completely submerged. Seal jar with a tight fitting lid and let sit for 3 days at room temperature. Strain solids out through a coffee filter into another sterilized glass jar; store infused vodka with other spirits up to 2 months.

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Homemade Matzo

SAVEUR Editors — Tue, 07 Apr 2020 18:05:06 +0000

Get the recipe for Homemade Matzo. Kat Craddock

Because we’re not aiming for kosher matzo (which must be made with only flour and water, among other requirements), we like to add a tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil to the dough to make it easier to roll out, then brush the warm crackers lightly with more oil and add a sprinkling of flaky sea salt.

Featured in: Seder in The Time of Corona

Equipment

Yield: makes 12 crackers

Time: 1 hour

2¼ cups (11¼ oz.) all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading and rolling
½ tsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
Flaky sea salt, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

Preheat the oven (with one of its racks positioned in the center) to 500°F for at least 45 minutes before you plan to bake the matzo. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper and set them aside.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix together the flour and kosher salt. Make a well in the center and add ¾ cup cold water and the olive oil. Using a wooden spoon, mix until the dough comes together, adding up to an additional ¼ cup of water, one teaspoon at a time, if needed. Lightly flour a clean work surface, turn the dough out onto it and knead until it comes together in a mostly-smooth ball, about 5 minutes. Divide the dough in half, then cut each half into 6 equal pieces (about 1½ ounces each). Place the 12 pieces on a piece of parchment paper, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside to rest at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Lightly flour your work surface again, then use a rolling pin to sheet one of the pieces of dough out to a 6- by 4-inch rectangle. Transfer the sheet of dough to one of the parchment-lined baking sheets, then prick it all over with a fork. Repeat with the remaining pieces, fitting 4 matzos on each sheet. Transfer one pan of crackers to the oven and bake until just the matzo is beginning to brown in spots on the bottom, 4–6 minutes. Using tongs, flip the crackers and continue baking until just crisp, 2–4 minutes more. Remove from the oven, brush lightly with olive oil, and sprinkle with flaky sea salt if desired. Continue baking the rest of the dough, one pan at a time, in this manner until all of the matzo is cooked. Serve warm or at room temperature. Cooled matzo crackers will keep in an airtight container for up to one week.

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Grilled Yogurt-Marinated Lamb Shoulder Chops

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:44:31 +0000

These lamb shoulder chops tenderize in a yogurt marinade flavored with cumin and cardamom before grilling. Get the recipe for Grilled Yogurt-Marinated Lamb Shoulder Chops ». Thomas Payne

Full-fat yogurt is the secret to getting these hefty lamb shoulder chops nice and tender. Laced with cumin, cardamom, garlic, and lemon, the marinade also infuses the meat with tons of flavor.

Equipment

Yield: serves 4-6

Time: 4 hours 25 minutes

6 lamb shoulder chops (about 8 oz. each), trimmed
1 large yellow onion, sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick rings
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup plain, whole-milk yogurt
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 ¹⁄₂ tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. ground green cardamom
8 cloves garlic, mashed into a paste
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
6 medium seedless oranges, ends trimmed, halved crosswise

Instructions

Place the lamb chops and onion in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish; season with salt and pepper. Stir together the yogurt, oil, cumin, cardamom, garlic paste, lemon zest and juice; rub the marinade over the lamb. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 hours.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. (Alternatively, heat a grill pan over medium-high.) Remove the lamb from the marinade and grill, flipping once, until slightly caramelized and cooked to desired doneness, 10–12 minutes for medium; transfer to a serving platter. Grill onion and oranges until slightly charred and tender, 5–7 minutes; serve alongside the lamb.

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Grilled Lamb Chops with Mint Salsa Verde

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:27:41 +0000

THOMAS PAYNE

Salsa verde, a Mediterranean condiment flavored with anchovies, capers, and herbs, partners nicely with seared, medium-rare lamb chops. A high-acid, ultra-crisp white, such as a txakolina from Spain’s Basque Country, matches the briny notes of the sauce.

How to Make Lamb Chops with Mint Salsa Verde

Yield: serves 2

Time: 55 minutes

4 (1-inch-thick) lamb loin chops or frenched lamb rib chops (about 1 lb.)
2 Tbsp. plus 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups loosely packed fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
¹⁄₂ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. fresh tarragon leaves, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. salt-packed capers, soaked, rinsed, drained, and finely chopped
¹⁄₄ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
6 oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped

Instructions

Place the lamb chops in a small baking dish, rub with 2 tablespoons oil, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside to rest for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the salsa verde: In a medium bowl, combine the mint, parsley, tarragon, capers, chile flakes, anchovies, and garlic. Slowly drizzle in the remaining 3⁄4 cup oil while stirring with a fork; set aside.
Build a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. (Alternatively, heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high.) Add the lamb and cook, flipping once, until browned, crusty, and cooked to desired temperature, 6–8 minutes for medium rare if using loin chops (rib chops will take only 4 minutes or so to reach medium rare). Transfer the lamb to a platter and serve with the salsa verde.

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