squid | Saveur

Supions à la Provençale (Warm Squid Salad with Bibb Lettuce and Garlic Croutons)

Benjamin Kemper — Wed, 17 Aug 2022 21:41:45 +0000

Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Barrett Washburne • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Barrett Washburne • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart

Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest cooking ideas that require just one pot, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

Everybody goes to Marseille for the bouillabaisse, but after a week in the Provençal capital, I can’t quite figure out why. Sure, the ruddy, saffron-scented soup is tasty and nourishing, but the experience struck me as more about style than substance—the sauces swirled with silver spoons, the solemn ladling of the broth, the oh-là-là filleting in plain view. Reader, it really is just fish stew.

I knew there was no way the local population was subsisting on $90-a-head soup served by white-jacketed waiters, so I set out to determine what folks were really eating. And that’s how I found my new favorite seafood dish, supions à la provençale.

Supions are small squid measuring some three inches in length. At down-home restaurants across the region, cooks sauté them with garlic and parsley until they’re deep brown and crunchy in spots. That crunch, as I’d learn at Restaurant Paule et Kopa, was as much about a quick dredge in flour as it was about the high flame. Behind the swinging door, I watched as a cook tossed the squid into a screaming-hot pan and then let them sizzle, undisturbed, for what seemed like an eternity. “Uh, aren’t they going to burn?” I asked without thinking, immediately wincing at how pedantic I must have sounded. “Patience! Patience!” he said with a grin. “You must resist the temptation to disturb them.” Two minutes later, I was rewarded with a plate of the most tender—yet simultaneously crisp—squid I’d ever tasted.

To better understand the dish, I caught up with Alexis Steinman, a longtime Marseille transplant and culinary tour guide with Culinary Backstreets. “Squid with parsley and garlic is the epitome of old-school Marseille cuisine,” she told me over milky-white glasses of pastis. “Simple. Familial. Italian-inspired.” She then pointed me in the direction of Chez Etienne, another supion temple. There, in the sweaty paper-tablecloth dining room heaving with locals, the squid were meatier, the garlic more assertive. I alternated bites with the side salad the supions came with: Bibb lettuce and radicchio kissed with lemon-mustard vinaigrette. Later on, as I flumped into the taxi, I thanked the heavens for my N95 mask: Every exhale felt like bioterrorism.

Back home in my Madrid apartment, I futzed with the recipe until I had the best of both worlds: the crackly exterior from Paule et Kopa and the fearless garlickiness from Chez Etienne. And borrowing a page from the latter, I dumped the fried squid over a bed of lemony greens and threw on some croutons for crunch.

Last week, as my friends helped themselves to seconds of the supions, it struck me that there is truly no better souvenir than a recipe. This dish, a portal to Marseille’s louche, rambunctious taverns jammed with wine-swilling locals, will stick with me until the end of my days.

Note: If you like your squid with a bit of bounce, follow the recipe as is; if you prefer that it be extra tender, quick-brine it: In a bowl, dissolve 1 teaspoon of baking soda and 1 tablespoon of salt in 3 cups of cold water, then add the squid, cover, and refrigerate for 15 minutes. Drain and dry with paper towels before proceeding to step 3.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped, divided
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more as needed
2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 tsp. mayonnaise
¾ tsp. Dijon mustard
1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided
Freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. cleaned squid (see note), bodies cut into 1-in. squares, tentacles halved lengthwise
1 head Bibb lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces (7 cups)
½ small head radicchio, torn into bite-size pieces (2 cups)
4 thick country bread slices, lightly toasted, crusts removed and cut into ½-in. cubes (2 cups)
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
¼ cup vegetable oil, divided, plus more as needed
¼ cup finely chopped parsley leaves
1 lemon, quartered, for garnish

Instructions

In a small bowl, combine one garlic clove and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and set aside to infuse for 20 minutes; set aside.
In a jar, shake together the vinegar, mayonnaise, and mustard. Add the remaining olive oil, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and black pepper to taste and shake until thickened slightly; set aside.
To a large resealable bag, add the flour and remaining salt and shake to combine. Add the squid, rub the mixture around until the pieces are evenly coated, and set aside.
In a large, shallow serving bowl, mound the lettuce and radicchio and set aside.
Strain the garlic oil into a large skillet (discarding the garlic) and turn the heat to medium. Add the bread and fry, stirring occasionally and adding more oil if the pan looks dry, until toasted and golden, about 8 minutes. Scatter over the salad.
To the empty skillet, add half of the vegetable oil and turn the heat to high. When it begins to smoke, add half of the squid. Stir to break up any large pieces, then cook, undisturbed, until deep golden on one side, about 4 minutes. Scrape the cooked squid onto a plate, then repeat with the remaining vegetable oil and squid, leaving the second batch in the pan.
Add back the reserved squid and a tablespoon of vegetable oil if the pan looks dry. Add the parsley and remaining garlic and cook, stirring continuously, until fragrant (do not burn), 30–60 seconds. Remove from the heat.
Working quickly, shake the vinaigrette to recombine and pour it over the lettuce mixture. Using your hands or tongs, toss to coat. Scatter the squid atop the lettuce, garnish with lemon wedges, and serve immediately.

The post Supions à la Provençale (Warm Squid Salad with Bibb Lettuce and Garlic Croutons) appeared first on Saveur.

Squid Ink Pasta With Shrimp, Fennel, Tomatoes, and Bottarga Butter

Josh DeCarolis — Sat, 05 Feb 2022 02:57:25 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling by Maggie Ruggiero; Prop Styling by Paige Hicks

Chef Josh DeCarolis of Mother & Sons Trattoria in Durham, North Carolina makes this dramatic pasta dish using fresh squid ink tonnarelli, though squid ink spaghetti alla chitarra or even dried squid ink spaghetti both make suitable substitutes. In season, the chef recommends using fresh San Marzano tomatoes , but any other ripe, juicy tomatoes will do.

Domestic bottarga may be ordered online from both Clearwater and Cortez, Florida; imported Sardinian versions are available at well-stocked Italian grocers and on Amazon.

Featured in “Once a Coastal Carolina Staple, Mullet Roe Is Making Waves Again with Local Chefs.”

Yield: serves 4

Time: 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the bottarga butter:

2 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
1 tsp. finely grated bottarga, plus more for garnish
1–2 drops fish sauce (optional)

For the pasta:

Kosher salt
½ lb. fresh squid ink tonnarelli
¼ cups extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (2 cups)
1 small fennel bulb, finely chopped (1 cup)
3 medium garlic cloves, sliced (1 Tbsp.)
3 medium plum tomatoes, finely chopped (2 cups)
3 oz. peeled and deveined shrimp, cut in ½-in. pieces (½ cup)
½ cups thinly sliced scallions
1 tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Instructions

Make the bottarga butter: In a small bowl, mix together the softened butter, bottarga, and the fish sauce. Set aside while you cook the pasta.
Fill a large pot halfway with water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lightly salt the water, then add the tonarelli and cook, stirring frequently, until just al dente, around 4 minutes for fresh pasta or 8 minutes for dried. Drain, discarding the cooking liquid, then return the pasta to the pot and set aside.
Meanwhile, to a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add a ¼ cup of the olive oil. Once hot, add the fennel, onion, and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion and fennel are tender and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the juices have concentrated and thickened slightly, 1–2 minutes. Stir in the shrimp and 3 tablespoons of water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp is cooked through, about 1 minute. Lower the heat to medium, then stir in the reserved pasta, using tongs to toss the noodles gently until the pasta is heated through, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, then add all of the reserved bottarga butter, and the lemon zest and juice. Toss well until the butter has melted and the pasta is evenly coated in the silky sauce, about 1 minute. Divide the tonarelli among 4 wide pasta bowls, spooning any of the remaining vegetables and shrimp over the top. Finish with sliced scallions, drizzle with olive oil, garnish with freshly grated bottarga, and serve hot.

The post Squid Ink Pasta With Shrimp, Fennel, Tomatoes, and Bottarga Butter appeared first on Saveur.

The Formula for a Perfect Ceviche Verde

SAVEUR Editors — Tue, 09 Jul 2019 19:17:24 +0000

Photography by Jenny Huang

Get the recipe for Ceviche Verde with Homemade Tortilla Chips » Photography by Jenny Huang

Come summer, everyone loves an easy, refreshing dish like a dinner salad, no-cook meal, or chilled dessert. But whereas cold soups, potato salads, or fresh tomato dishes are a dime a dozen this time of year, ceviche has yet to attain that kind of ubiquity in the home kitchen.

Our best guess as to why has to do with raw fish not being an ingredient many cooks in the U.S. are used to working with at home. Much like crudo—or sushi, or clams on the half shell—ceviche is a dish that, perhaps for its perceived delicacy or the fact that it requires pristine product, many diners tend to reserve for restaurant orders. In reality, ceviche checks all the summer entertaining boxes: it’s effortless but impressive, ready in a pinch, and won’t break the bank. Plus, you can find the fish you need at almost any seafood counter.

We’ve fallen in love with this simple version, inspired by the cookbook Nopalito, written by chef Gonzalo Guzmán with SAVEUR’s editor-in-chief Stacy Adimando. It includes a base of tomatillos and lime, and comes from a Mexican tradition called campechana—which Guzmán describes as the blending of two fish (in this case, calamari), one less expensive than the other—to help stretch the dish to feed more people for less. The book includes a few types of ceviche, some made with puréed dried red chiles—since they’re available year-round—and others with fresh in-season crab or tiny, ripe cherry tomatoes. But this squid and white fish rendition stands out to us for its tart, refreshing flavors and eye-catching appeal: The tender purple tentacles of the quick-cooked calamari are stunning alongside the bright and tangy green broth.

Here are some guidelines for acing the dish.

We love the contrast between the green tomatillos and the purple calamari tentacles. Jenny Huang

Start with Fresh Seafood

While this may sound like a no-brainer for ceviche, it has to be said. In a dish where you are meant to taste the true flavors of the barely cooked seafood, freshness is everything. Shop at a place with high turnover, and ask the fishmonger which white fish is freshest that day. You can use halibut, cod, or another firm, mild-flavored fillet. Buy it skinned and deboned so it’s ready to use when you get home.

When shopping for calamari, look for bright white bodies and make sure the squid smells clean and briny (not fishy). While you can usually find it pre-cleaned, with bodies and tentacles separated, here’s how to clean whole calamari yourself if needed: Slice the squid in half lengthwise and scrape away and discard anything remaining inside. Remove and discard any clear, filmy pieces that cling to the flesh. Trim away the ink sac and eyes if included, and remove and discard any firm pieces of cartilage, then separate the tentacles from the body.

Corn tortilla wedges are fried in an inch of oil. Jenny Huang

Fry Your Own Tortilla Chips

While certainly not required, beautifully bubbly home-fried tortilla chips really up the wow factor—and flavor impact—when you’re serving ceviche. They also tend to be hardier and slightly thicker than store-bought chips, meaning they’ll do a better job of scooping up substantial mounds of ceviche. You can also salt them to taste, preserving the balance of overall saltiness across the chip and the fish.

Tomatillos, cilantro, and chiles are puréed for the ceviche broth. Jenny Huang

Tweak the Seasoning as Needed

Though this formula is relatively fail-proof, some limes and tomatillos will inevitably be sweeter, juicier, or more acidic than others. Certain types of fish also vary in flavor, ranging from mild to strong, and levels of salt. As a result, you may need to adjust the quantity of lime juice, tomatillo liquid, salt, or chiles to get the flavor and consistency you want.

Once the fish and squid are “cooked,” don’t wait! Arrange the chips alongside the ceviche and crack open a couple of beers. Photography by Jenny Huang

Serve (Almost) Immediately

Ceviche is technically marinated—not cooked—seafood, but the highly acidic lime juice helps to “cook” the raw fish slightly as it sits. As it rests, it will continue cooking, sometimes past the point where the flesh remains tender and delicate-tasting. Because of this, ceviche has a precise serving window—about five minutes after it is initially mixed, and not much longer than that.

Yield: serves 4

Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

For the chips:

6 yellow corn tortillas
4 cups canola oil, for frying
Kosher salt

For the ceviche verde:

7 oz. firm white fish, such as halibut or cod, skin and bones removed
Kosher salt
9 oz. cleaned squid, bodies thinly sliced into rings and tentacles cut into bite-size pieces
4 medium tomatillos (12 oz. total), peeled and rinsed
1 cup cilantro leaves
1 very thinly sliced serrano or jalapeño chile
1 large garlic clove, coarsely chopped
Juice of 6 large limes (about ½ cup)

Instructions

Fry the tortilla chips: Cut each of the tortillas into 4 equal wedges (or choose whatever size or shape chip you want). Line a baking sheet or large platter with a few layers of paper towels.
In a 10-inch stainless-steel skillet, add enough oil to reach about 1 inch up the sides of the pan. Heat until the oil registers 350°F on a deep-fry thermometer. Working in batches of around 6 or 8, add some chips without overcrowding the pan and fry, rotating and turning occasionally with tongs, until deep golden and completely hard and crunchy, 5 to 8 minutes (do not overcook since this can make the chips too greasy). Transfer to the prepared baking sheet to drain, and immediately sprinkle the chips lightly with salt. Set aside to cool completely while you continue frying the rest of the chips.
Make the ceviche: Cut the fish into ½-inch pieces (you should have 1¾ cups). Set aside.
In a small pot, add enough water to reach three-quarters of the way up the sides of the pot and bring to a boil. Set a medium bowl of ice water next to the stove. Season both waters generously with salt.
Once the water is boiling, add the squid rings and cook until firmed up slightly, 1½ to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, quickly transfer the rings to the ice water to cool. Add the tentacles to the boiling water and repeat; remove to the ice water. Remove all of the squid from the water when completely chilled, pat dry, and refrigerate.
In a blender, add the tomatillos, cilantro, chile, garlic, and a generous pinch of salt; pulse until runny but still slightly chunky.
In a fine-mesh strainer set over a medium bowl, strain the tomatillo mixture, reserving the liquid and the solids.
When ready to serve, in a shallow, medium serving bowl, add the fish, squid, and lime juice; stir well. Stir in the solids from the tomatillo mixture plus 2–3 tablespoons of the reserved liquid. Let stand, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning or consistency with more salt, lime juice, or tomatillo liquid as needed. Serve immediately with the chips.

The post The Formula for a Perfect Ceviche Verde appeared first on Saveur.

Ceviche Verde with Homemade Tortilla Chips

SAVEUR Editors — Tue, 09 Jul 2019 17:37:04 +0000

Photography by Jenny Huang

This tomatillo- and lime-based ceviche was inspired by chef Gonzalo Guzmán from Nopalito, a Mexican restaurant in San Francisco. Though Guzmán grinds his own masa to make chips from scratch, frying store-bought all-corn tortillas is an easy substitute that still yields golden, crispy, and robust chips for scooping. If you don’t have access to squid, you can use all white fish, or some finely chopped raw shrimp. To clean squid, run the bodies and tentacles under cool water, rubbing gently to help pull away or release any impurities.

Featured in: The Formula for a Perfect Ceviche Verde

Equipment

Yield: serves 4

Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

For the chips:

6 yellow corn tortillas
4 cups canola oil, for frying
Kosher salt

For the ceviche verde:

7 oz. firm white fish, such as halibut or cod, skin and bones removed
Kosher salt
9 oz. cleaned squid, bodies thinly sliced into rings and tentacles cut into bite-size pieces
4 medium tomatillos (12 oz. total), peeled and rinsed
1 cup cilantro leaves
1 very thinly sliced serrano or jalapeño chile
1 large garlic clove, coarsely chopped
Juice of 6 large limes (about ½ cup)

Instructions

Fry the tortilla chips: Cut each of the tortillas into 4 equal wedges (or choose whatever size or shape chip you want). Line a baking sheet or large platter with a few layers of paper towels.
In a 10-inch stainless-steel skillet, add enough oil to reach about 1 inch up the sides of the pan. Heat until the oil registers 350°F on a deep-fry thermometer. Working in batches of around 6 or 8, add some chips without overcrowding the pan and fry, rotating and turning occasionally with tongs, until deep golden and completely hard and crunchy, 5 to 8 minutes (do not overcook since this can make the chips too greasy). Transfer to the prepared baking sheet to drain, and immediately sprinkle the chips lightly with salt. Set aside to cool completely while you continue frying the rest of the chips.
Make the ceviche: Cut the fish into ½-inch pieces (you should have 1¾ cups). Set aside.
In a small pot, add enough water to reach three-quarters of the way up the sides of the pot; bring to a boil. Set a medium bowl of ice water next to the stove. Season both waters generously with salt.
Once the water is boiling, add the squid rings and cook until firmed up slightly, 1½ to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, quickly transfer the rings to the ice water to cool. Add the tentacles to the boiling water and repeat; remove to the ice water. Remove all of the squid from the water when completely chilled, pat dry, and refrigerate.
In a blender, add the tomatillos, cilantro, chile, garlic, and a generous pinch of salt; pulse until runny but still slightly chunky.
In a fine-mesh strainer set over a medium bowl, strain the tomatillo mixture, reserving the liquid and the solids.
When ready to serve, in a shallow, medium serving bowl, add the fish, squid, and lime juice; stir well. Stir in the solids from the tomatillo mixture plus 2–3 tablespoons of the reserved liquid. Let stand, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning or consistency with more salt, lime juice, or tomatillo liquid as needed. Serve immediately with the chips.

The post Ceviche Verde with Homemade Tortilla Chips appeared first on Saveur.

Video: How to Prep Squid

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:27 +0000

For most of us, if a food requires more intricate prep than a rinse under the faucet and couple quick chops, that’s a good enough reason not to cook with it. However, David Seigal, executive chef at The Lobster Place and Cull & Pistol, has come to the rescue for all the squid-fearing cooks at home. Squid is mild-flavored, and it’s great fried, baked, or sautéed with a variety of ingredients, depending on the season. Now you no longer have to miss out on fried calamari or stuffed squid recipes because you’re just not quite sure what to do with the slimy little creature. Throw on a pair of latex gloves, and follow Seigal as he swiftly slices and washes a squid.

Once you have your squid, start by removing the top fin and peeling off the skin. Next, gently remove the spine and gust from the head (don’t worry, it’s not as gruesome as it sounds!). Once the body and tentacles are separate, cut the tentacles just below the eyes and remove the beak from the tentacles. Lastly, wash the body of the squid and the tentacles, and now your squid is all ready to go.

Not sure what to make out of your clean squid? Try out some of our favorite calamari recipes here.

The post Video: How to Prep Squid appeared first on Saveur.

Grano Arso Orecchiette with Cuttlefish and Fresh Basil

Antonella Millarte — Wed, 13 Mar 2019 16:02:48 +0000

Handmade pasta with toasted "grano arso" flour, tomatoes, basil, and cuttlefish. Matt Taylor-Gross

Apulian food writer and sommelier Antonella Millarte makes this burned wheat pasta dish using fresh cuttlefish from the Ionian Sea. If cuttlefish is difficult to source in your area, substitute fresh squid and reduce the cooking time as instructed. The flavorful, starchy squid-cooking broth is used to make a light and aromatic tomato sauce that Millarte suggests pairing with Apulian Negroamaro rosé.

As this simple semolina pasta dough contains no egg, it can be prepared in advance and stored uncooked for up to several months at room temperature. If storing for longer than 2 days, allow the pasta to dry out completely on a sheet pan before transferring to an airtight container and storing at room temperature.

Toasty, nutty grano arso pasta—made with ‘burnt’ wheat—is a longtime Apulian staple, and now it’s making a comeback

Featured in: Do Like the Italians and Burn Your Pasta

Ingredients

For the orecchiette:

1 ¹⁄₄ cups (250 g) finely ground semolina, plus more for dusting
¹⁄₄ cup (30 g) grano arso flour

For the sauce:

2 whole small white onions, divided
2 whole small russet potatoes (about 1 lb.), diced
2 stalks celery, chopped
7 whole Roma tomatoes, quartered lengthwise and cored, divided
Fine sea salt
1 ¹⁄₃ lb. squid bodies or whole cuttlefish, cleaned
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 clove garlic
12 whole fresh basil leaves, coarsely torn
Red pepper flakes (optional)
freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

Make the orecchiette: On a clean work surface, place the semolina and grano arso flours in a small mound, mixing to combine. Create a deep well in the center and add ⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons lukewarm water. Using a fork and starting from the interior wall of the well, gradually incorporate the flour into the water until a thick batter-like consistency forms. Use a bowl scraper to cut and fold the remaining flour into the center until a shaggy mass forms; press to form a dough, then knead until it becomes smooth and elastic, 18-20 minutes.
Generously dust a baking sheet with semolina and set aside. Break off a piece of dough about the size of a lemon and cover the rest of the dough tightly with a sheet of plastic wrap. Roll the smaller dough piece to a long rope about ¾ inch thick; using a sharp knife, slice into disks about 1⁄16 inch thick.
One at a time, pick up a piece of dough and use the tip of your thumb to press a deep well into the center, creating a rough, half-sphere-shape that is slightly thicker at the edges. Place the finished orecchiette on the prepared baking sheet and repeat with the remaining dough pieces. Set the finished pasta aside for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days before cooking.
Set a large bowl of ice water beside the stove. Coarsely chop one of the onions. In a medium pot, combine the potatoes, celery, chopped onion, and 1 of the tomatoes and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Season generously with kosher salt and bring to a low boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and let cook for 15 minutes. Add the squid or cuttlefish and continue cooking until firm-tender, 1-2 minutes for squid or 3-4 minutes for cuttlefish. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to transfer the squid or cuttlefish to the ice water. Once cool, remove and thinly slice (discard the ice water).
Set a fine strainer over a large bowl or liquid measuring cup. Strain and reserve the broth. Discard the vegetables.
Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the orecchiette and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, 1 ½-2 minutes (or as many as 6 minutes if completely dried). Drain the pasta and set aside while you finish the sauce.
Halve and thinly slice one of the onions. Seed and dice the remaining 6 tomatoes. In a large skillet set over medium-low heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil. Once hot, add sliced onion and garlic, and and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and beginning to brown, 10-12 minutes. Remove the garlic clove, add the tomatoes, and continue cooking to reduce the liquid in the tomatoes slightly, 2-3 minutes. Add the cooked orecchiette, the squid or cuttlefish, 1 cup of the reserved broth, the basil, and the red pepper flakes if using; continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the pasta is tender and the broth is slightly thickened, 2-3 minutes. Season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste, and serve immediately.

The post Grano Arso Orecchiette with Cuttlefish and Fresh Basil appeared first on Saveur.

Portuguese Squid, Bean, and Sausage Stew (Feijoada de Lulas)

André Magalhães — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:24:39 +0000

Evan Sung. Evan Sung

This dish from Taberna da Rua das Flores highlights chef André Magalhães’ willingness to take quintessential Portuguese dishes—in this case, a rich stew of black beans and meat, often including chorizo—and use them as a springboard for his own creations. Here, he adds pieces of squid (lulas) for a fresh take on the original.

The Portuguese capital is redefining its cuisine with a new openness to foreign flavors and far-flung influences

Featured in: The New Tastes of Lisbon, One of Europe’s Most Underrated Dining Cities

Yield: 4-6

Time: 1 hour 55 minutes

¹⁄₂ cup extra-virgin olive oil, or more to taste
2 large yellow onions, chopped
5 oz. fresh Portuguese sausage or chorizo, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices
4 cloves garlic, minced (1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp.)
2 bay leaves
Pinch ground cumin
1 ³⁄₄ lb. cleaned squid bodies, cut into 2-inch squares (2 1/2 cups)
1 cup dry white wine
4 ¹⁄₂ cups cooked, drained pinto beans
4 small vine-ripe tomatoes, quartered and cored
1 bird's-eye or piri-piri chile
Salt to taste
¹⁄₄ cup chopped cilantro leaves, for garnish
Flaky sea salt, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

In a large pot over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the sausage, garlic, bay leaves, and cumin and cook, stirring frequently, until the sausage is no longer pink and the garlic is fragrant, about 10 minutes. Stir in the squid, then add the white wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is mostly evaporated, about 15 minutes. Stir in the beans, tomatoes, and chile. Cover the pot and let the stew simmer for 45 minutes. Season with salt to taste.
Serve immediately, garnished with cilantro and flaky sea salt, and drizzled with more olive oil if desired.

The post Portuguese Squid, Bean, and Sausage Stew (Feijoada de Lulas) appeared first on Saveur.

Provençal Stuffed Squid

David Tanis — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:57 +0000

Justin Walker. Justin Walker

Fresh squid of every size, and cuttlefish too, are found at fishmongers throughout Provence. Lulu buys the tiny ones to fry, but chooses medium-size squid to stuff with herbs, chard, and bread crumbs (she prefers chard to spinach under most circumstances). To make things easier, the squid can be prepared in advance and cooked later in the day, roasted, grilled, or braised. Serve warm or at room temperature, drizzled with fruity oil or an anchovy vinaigrette.

Featured in: “Remembering Lulu Peyraud, the Cooking Queen of Provence“

Yield: 4

Time: 1 hour

12 oz. chard or spinach, chopped, about 6 cups
Kosher salt
5 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
¹⁄₄ cup homemade dried bread crumbs
1 large onion, finely diced, about 1 1/2 cups
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tsp. chopped thyme
¹⁄₂ tsp. chopped rosemary
4 anchovy fillets in oil, well rinsed and chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
Cayenne pepper
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 ¹⁄₂ lb. cleaned medium squid, about a dozen, tentacles and bodies separated
1 cup white wine
Wild arugula leaves, for garnish
Lemon wedges, for serving

Instructions

Blanch the chard in boiling salted water for 1 minute, then drain and cool under running water. Squeeze chard completely dry and finely chop. Set aside. In a small skillet, warm 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the bread crumbs and cook, tossing occasionally, until browned and toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and let the bread crumbs cool.
Put 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until softened and lightly colored, about 10 minutes.
Add parsley, thyme, rosemary, anchovies, garlic, and cayenne. Cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes more. Transfer onion mixture to a bowl. Add the cooked chard, the reserved bread crumbs, and lemon zest. Mix well with a wooden spoon. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Rinse squid well with cold water and pat dry. Using a teaspoon, fill each squid body, taking care not to overstuff. Secure the open ends with a toothpick. Season stuffed squid on both sides generously with salt and pepper. Season tentacles separately with salt and pepper.
Warm a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat for 5 minutes. Pour 1 tablespoon olive oil into the skillet, then add the squid bodies and cook, flipping once, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add the tentacles around the bodies, then add the wine. Cover with a lid, and cook until the squid bodies and tentacles are tender but firm, about 1 minute. Uncover and continue cooking until the wine reduces slightly, about 1 minute more, and season with salt and pepper. (Note: Do not crowd the squid in the pan. If necessary, use 2 skillets or work in batches.)
Transfer the squid bodies and tentacles to a large serving platter and spoon the sauce over the top. Scatter the arugula around the squid and serve with lemon wedges.

The post Provençal Stuffed Squid appeared first on Saveur.

Fennel and Citrus Salad with Charred Squid

Kim Alter — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:39:02 +0000

Fennel and Citrus Salad with Charred Squid. Ryan Liebe

The zest and segments, sometimes called supremes (see: How to Segment Citrus), of four types of in-season citrus enliven shaved fennel and charred squid in this winter salad. The dressing is made with the citrus juices and an entire puréed poached lemon. Sugar tames the lemon’s bitterness, while the peel and pith add a tingly bite.

Featured in: How to Breathe New Life Into Winter Salads

Yield: serves 4-6

Time: 50 minutes

1 whole lemon, plus the finely grated zest and segments of 2 lemons, juices reserved
1 cup plus 2 tsp. sugar
Finely grated zest and segments of 2 grapefruits, 2 oranges, and 1 lime, juices reserved
¹⁄₄ cup olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bulb fennel, halved, cored, and thinly sliced
¹⁄₂ small red onion, thinly sliced
12 oz. cleaned squid bodies and tentacles, bodies cut into 3/4-inch rings

Instructions

In a small saucepan, cover the whole lemon with water and bring to a boil. Drain the lemon, return it to the pan and repeat boiling the lemon two more times with fresh water and drain. In the saucepan, bring the lemon, 1 cup sugar, and 2 cups water to a boil and cook for 3 minutes. Transfer the lemon to a blender along with 6 tablespoons of the syrup and purée until smooth; discard the remaining syrup. Pour and press the purée through a fine sieve into a bowl and discard the solids. Stir the remaining 2 teaspoons sugar into the purée along with all the citrus zests and juices and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper.
In a large bowl, cover the fennel and onion with ice water and let stand for 10 minutes. Drain and transfer to paper towels to dry thoroughly. Transfer the fennel and onion to the bowl with the vinaigrette and toss to combine. Lift the fennel and onion from the dressing and transfer to a large serving platter. Arrange all the citrus segments evenly over the fennel and onion and drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over the top.
Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over high for 5 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and swirl the skillet to coat. Add the squid and cook, without stirring, until lightly charred, about 6 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, spoon the squid over the salad, and serve immediately.

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Crispy Calamari and Shrimp with Pepper-Lime Sauce

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:42:56 +0000

A bright dipping sauce made of lime juice, shallot, and basil enlivens delicately breaded and fried calamari and shrimp in this Cambodian appetizer. Get the recipe for Crispy Calamari and Prawns with Pepper–Lime Sauce ». Christopher Wise

A bright dipping sauce made of lime juice, shallot, and basil called toek enlivens fried calamari and prawns at The Sugar Palm, but it’s just as good with grilled meats or vegetables. Use Wondra flour, which is very finely milled, for a thin, crisp coating on the shrimp; all-purpose flour is a fine substitute but will yield a heavier crust.

Featured in: The New Tastes of Old Siem Reap

Vegetable oil, for frying
1 cup fine flour, such as Wondra
1 tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more
Kosher salt
8 oz. cleaned calamari bodies and tentacles, bodies cut into 1/2-inch-thick rings
8 oz. medium head-on and shell-on prawns
12 basil leaves
4 kaffir lime leaves
2 chiles de árbol, stemmed and seeded
1 stalk lemongrass, inner core thinly shredded lengthwise
2 inches galangal, peeled and finely julienned
¹⁄₄ cup fresh lime juice
1 tbsp. finely grated palm sugar or light brown sugar
1 tbsp. minced shallot
2 tsp. minced garlic

Instructions

Pour enough oil to come 2 inches up the side of 6-qt. saucepan and heat over medium to 350°. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the sugar and season with pepper and salt. Add the calamari bodies and tentacles and prawns and toss until evenly coated. Lift the calamari from the flour, shake off the excess, and place in the oil along with 4 basil leaves, 2 kaffir limes leaves, 1 chile, and half each of the shredded lemongrass and galangal.
Deep-fry the calamari until golden brown and cooked through, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, lift the calamari, leaves, and chile from the oil and transfer to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the prawns, 4 basil leaves, and the remaining kaffir lime leaves, chile, and shredded lemongrass and galangal.
Finely mince the remaining 4 basil leaves and place in a small bowl, along with the 1 teaspoon pepper, the lime juice, palm sugar, shallot, and garlic. Season with salt and stir to combine. Serve the dipping sauce alongside the fried calamari, prawns, and herbs while hot.

The post Crispy Calamari and Shrimp with Pepper-Lime Sauce appeared first on Saveur.

Plancha-Burnt Calamaretti with Pimentón Oil

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:42:23 +0000

Here, Argentine grill-master Francis Mallmann pairs smoky grilled calamaretti with rich avocado, spicy pimenton oil, and charred tomatoes, resulting in an elegant summer dish. Get the recipe for Plancha-Burnt Calamaretti with Pimentón Oil ». Matt Taylor-Gross

Argentine grill-master Francis Mallmann has been making a version of this dish for 20 years, but he likes to change it up from time to time. “Harmony in food is for children,” he says. Here, he pairs smoky grilled calamaretti with rich avocado, spicy pimenton oil, and charred tomatoes, resulting in an elegant summer dish.

Featured in: In the Kitchen with Francis

Yield: serves 4-6

Time: 3 hours

1 lb. small calamari, cleaned
1 cup whole milk
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 tbsp. Spanish pimentón
3 lemons, preferably Meyer
1 lb. fingerling potatoes
2 heads garlic, halved lengthwise
2 sprigs thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
¹⁄₄ cup clarified butter or ghee
1 lb. multicolored heirloom tomatoes, cored and sliced into wedges
1 French brioche loaf
2 bacon slices
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 avocados, halved, pitted, peeled, and cut lengthwise into thick slices
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
¹⁄₂ cup loosely-packed cilantro leaves

Instructions

In a medium bowl, combine the calamari bodies and tentacles with the milk and refrigerate overnight. In a small bowl, whisk 1 cup olive oil with the pimentón and refrigerate overnight. The next day, drain the calamari, pat dry with paper towels, and refrigerate until ready to use. Remove the pimentón oil 1 hour before serving.
In a small saucepan, cover the lemons with cold water, and bring to a boil. Cook the lemons for 40 minutes, and then drain and cover again with fresh water. Repeat this process 4 more times, and then drain the lemons and let stand until cool enough to handle. Halve the lemons and remove and discard the flesh from the peel. Heat a 9-inch cast iron pan over medium-high. Drizzle the lemon peel with 1 teaspoon olive oil and add to the skillet. Cook the peels, tuning once, until slightly charred, about 4 minutes. Transfer the peels to a plate and let the pan cool.
In a medium saucepan, cover the potatoes, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf with cold water and season generously with salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Drain the potatoes, and discard the garlic and herbs. Let the potatoes cool for 5 minutes, then smash with the palm of your hand. Heat the butter in the cast iron pan over medium. Add the potatoes, and cook on one side until crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer the potatoes to a plate.
Wipe the pan clean, then heat over high. Add the tomatoes and cook, undisturbed, until blackened, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the plate with the potatoes. Return the pan to high heat, add the bacon, and cook, turning once, until it begins to caramelize, 2 to 3 minutes. Push the bacon to the perimeter of the pan and allow some of the fat to burn off until the pan is almost dry, about 5 minutes. Working in batches, add the calamari bodies and tentacles, and cook, turning once, until charred on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the calamari to a plate, drizzle with 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool with the bacon.
Heat the broiler. Tear the brioche into 6 large chunks and place on a baking sheet. Cook the brioche, turning, until toasted all over, about 2 minutes. In a bowl, toss the avocado slices with the remaining 5 teaspoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and the cilantro leaves. Season the avocado with salt and pepper.
To serve, divide the calamari, lemon peels, brioche, potatoes, tomatoes, and avocado among 4 plates, and then drizzle with the pimentón oil.

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