Protein | Saveur

Grilled Lobster with Garlic-Parsley Butter

Curtis Stone — Fri, 08 Feb 2019 18:38:40 +0000

Mark Roper. Mark Roper

While steaming and boiling may be the most common methods, grilling lobster is a surprisingly easy way to cook the popular crustacean. A quick cleaver through the body kills the lobster instantly and painlessly. (To preserve its freshness, this step should be done immediately before cooking.)

If serving grilled lobster as a main course, count on at least one 1-pound lobster per person (though you can get away with less if you’re also grilling an assortment of other seafood). And don’t ditch the precious shells when you’re finished! Instead, freeze and then use them to make a rich lobster stock, which is the perfect base for bisque and other seafood soups and sauces.

Featured in “The Heat Down Under.”

Yield: 1–2

Time: 20 minutes

8 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
2 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley
1½ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 live lobster (about 1 to 1½ lb.)
¼ cup olive oil

Instructions

In a small bowl, stir together the butter, parsley, chile flakes, garlic, and lemon zest. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, then set aside.
Using a cleaver, split the lobster in half lengthwise through its head and tail. Scoop out and discard the yellow-green tomalley and break off the claws. Transfer the lobster halves, shell side down, to a large baking sheet. Crack the claws and transfer them to the baking sheet. Drizzle the halves and claws with oil, then season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high, then bank the coals or turn off the burner on one side. Place the lobster halves, flesh side down, and claws on the hottest part of grill and cook until slightly charred, 2–3 minutes. Flip the lobster halves and claws over and use a spoon to spread them with the garlic-parsley butter. Continue grilling until the lobster meat is tender, 3–5 minutes more.

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Pescado Embarazado (Grilled Fish Skewers)

Esther Sanchez — Tue, 03 Sep 2019 15:10:16 +0000

Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Olivia Mack McCool • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio. Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Olivia Mack McCool • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio

Spanish for “pregnant fish,” pescado embarazado is a mishearing of this dish’s actual name, pescado en vara asado, or grilled fish on a stick. It’s one of the most popular dishes to eat at the beach in Nayarit, Mexico. In this version adapted from chef Esther Sanchez, the marinade is made with achiote paste, citrus, tomato, and cumin. Reserve some of the flavorful sauce and serve it on the side as a zesty condiment.

Featured in “This Fish on a Stick Might Be the Best Beach Snack in Mexico” by Matt Taylor-Gross.

Yield: 4

Time: 50 minutes

1¾ cups fresh orange juice
1¼ cups canned tomato purée
½ cup achiote paste
4 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped (2 Tbsp.)
2 tsp. cumin seeds
1½ tsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems
1½ tsp. finely chopped rosemary leaves
1½ tsp. finely chopped thyme leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Four 1-lb. whole mackerel or branzino, gutted and cleaned (or substitute 2½ lb. dogfish or mahi mahi fillets, cut into 2-in. cubes)
Vegetable oil, for the grill
Hot sauce and lime wedges, for serving

Instructions

Make the marinade: To a blender, add the orange juice, tomato purée, achiote paste, garlic, cumin, parsley, rosemary, and thyme. Pulse until completely smooth, then transfer to a small pot.
Bring the marinade to a boil over medium-high, then turn the heat to medium-low to maintain a strong simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, until the marinade is slightly thickened and the garlic no longer tastes raw, 15–20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, then transfer to a large heatproof bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature. Use immediately, or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
If using whole fish, use a sharp knife to score the fish crosswise on each side, being careful not to cut through to the bone. Place the fish in a large baking dish and rub 1½ cups of the marinade all over the exterior and inside the slits. (If using fillets, in a large bowl, toss the cubed fish with 1½ cups of the marinade.) Set aside to marinate at room temperature for at least 15 minutes, or up to 40.
Meanwhile, heat a charcoal or gas grill to high (alternatively, heat a grill pan over high). When it’s hot, liberally oil the grates. Thread the fish onto four 10-inch metal or bamboo skewers (if using bamboo, soak for at least 30 minutes before grilling). Transfer to the grill and cook, turning occasionally, until the fish is charred in places and cooked through, 14–16 minutes for whole fish, 5–6 minutes for cubed fish. Transfer to a platter and serve with lime wedges, hot sauce, and the remaining marinade.

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Gullah Conch Stew

Charlotte Jenkins — Mon, 09 Sep 2024 19:30:59 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Pearl Jones. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Pearl Jones

“Mama didn’t pound the conches or grind them either. She would dice them, and that’s what we serve,” writes chef Charlotte Jenkins of this conch stew in her cookbook Gullah Cuisine. She served the beloved Gullah Geechee dish at her restaurant of the same name, the now-closed Gullah Cuisine in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina. Conch is a mainstay of Lowcountry cooking, starring in Gullah recipes from fritters to stews. Here, roughly chopped conch strikes the perfect balance between chewy and tender, while salt pork adds just the right amount of richness. Both proteins are cooked low and slow with plenty of aromatics until the stew is thick and glossy.

Featured in “Chef Charlotte Jenkins Is Spreading the Gospel of Gullah Cuisine” by Amethyst Ganaway.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Tri-Ply Stainless Steel Chef’s Pan here.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 5 hours

2½ lb. fresh or frozen conch meat, coarsely chopped (5 cups)
12 oz. salt pork (or bacon or deli ham), coarsely chopped (2 cups)
1 celery rib, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 small sweet or yellow onion, finely chopped
¼ cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup vegetable oil
Steamed long-grain white rice, for serving

Instructions

To a large pot, add the conch, pork, celery, garlic, onion, and 8 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low, cover the pot, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by about a third, about 3 hours.
To a small skillet over medium heat, add the flour and oil and cook, whisking continuously, until the flour turns brown, about 5 minutes. Stir the flour mixture into the stew and continue simmering over medium-low heat until the conch is tender, 1–2 hours.
Serve over rice.

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Dibi Hausa (Senegalese Grilled Beef Kebabs)

Pierre Thiam — Tue, 20 Jul 2021 21:18:40 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

This recipe, which appeared in Adrian Miller’s book, Black Smoke, is adapted from beef kebabs made by chef Pierre Thiam, a Senegal native, who is doing much to educate Americans about the food of his native country. It’s also a great way to get a taste of West African barbecue in a short period of time. Though this recipe calls for beef, you can use any other meat or vegetable to achieve delicious results. If using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for an hour before using. The tankora spice mix will last up to two months stored in an airtight container at room temperature.

Featured in “The Real Star Of West African-Style Grilling? This DIY-Friendly Seasoning” by Adrian Miller.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the tankora powder:

1 cup roasted, unsalted peanuts, crushed to a fine powder
1 tsp. ground ginger
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
½ tsp. ground cayenne pepper

For the kebabs:

1 lb. round steak, sliced into strips about 1½ by 2 by ⅜ in.
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. finely grated white or yellow onion
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
½ tsp. finely chopped garlic
¼ tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
1 chicken bouillon cube, crumbled (optional)
1 Tbsp. peanut or vegetable oil
1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
½ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

Make the tankora powder: In a small bowl, stir together the peanuts, ginger, salt, white pepper, and cayenne; set aside.
Prepare the kebabs: Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high. To a large bowl, add the steak, onion, tomato paste, garlic, ginger, and bouillon cube (if desired); toss to combine. Add the oil, white pepper, cayenne, and salt and toss to coat the meat evenly in the seasonings. Set aside to marinate for 10–15 minutes.
Thread a few slices of meat onto eight 6-inch skewers. Pour the reserved tankora powder onto a wide plate and roll each skewer in it, evenly coating all sides and shaking off any excess. Using a pastry brush, brush a bit more of the remaining marinade over each skewer. Transfer to the grill and cook, turning occasionally and basting with the marinade, until the meat is seared and browned all over and cooked through, 12–14 minutes. Serve hot or warm.

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Grilled Scallops with Yuzu Kosho Vinaigrette

Tadashi Ono — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:11 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Tyna Hoang. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Tyna Hoang

One night, on the southern Japanese island of Kyushu, I ordered a bowl of ramen and watched the cook serve a paste alongside the noodle soup that I’d never seen before. It was yuzu kosho. It only has three ingredients: salt, hot pepper, and yuzu, the Japanese citrus, but it’s fascinating. It has spice, fragrance, aroma—everything. There are two types: red, made from ripe yuzu and red chiles, and green, from unripe fruit with green chiles. I use the sharper green version to cut through rich meats, and the milder red in seafood dishes, like these grilled scallops.

Pairing note: Earthy Sumiyoshi Tokubetsu Junmai sake from Japan’s Yamagata prefecture stands up to yuzu kosho’s spice.

Yield: 4

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. fresh or bottled yuzu juice
1 Tbsp. finely chopped scallions, white parts only
1 Tbsp. red yuzu kosho
2 tsp. soy sauce
16 large sea scallops
1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley leaves, for garnish
Kosher salt

Instructions

In a small bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk together the oil, yuzu juice, scallions, yuzu kosho, and soy sauce. To a medium bowl, add the scallops and one-third of the yuzu vinaigrette, then toss to coat.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. Alternatively, heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Add the scallops and grill, turning once, until golden brown and just cooked through, about 4 minutes total. Transfer to a platter and drizzle the remaining yuzu vinaigrette over the scallops. Garnish with the parsley, season to taste with salt, and serve hot.

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Grilled Porterhouse Steaks with Garlic and Miso

Tadashi Ono — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:42:44 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Tyna Hoang. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Tyna Hoang

A marinade of red miso, ginger, and garlic gives these steaks a crisp, flavorful crust and a juicy interior. Serve them with chef and cookbook author Tadashi Ono’s Grilled Tomatoes with Soy Sauce and Yuzu Kosho.

Featured in “The Japanese Grill.”

Yield: 4

Time: 35 minutes

Two 1½-in.-thick bone-in porterhouse steaks (3½ lb.)
½ cup soy sauce
¼ cup red miso
3 Tbsp. olive oil
3 Tbsp. sesame oil
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
8 garlic cloves, grated
One 2-in. piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated

Instructions

Place the steaks in a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. In a medium bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk together the soy sauce, miso, oils, black pepper, garlic, and ginger. Pour three-quarters of the marinade over the steaks, reserving the remaining marinade, then cover the dish with plastic wrap and set aside for 10 minutes.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high, then bank the coals or turn off the burner on one side. Add the steaks to the hottest part of the grill and cook without flipping until browned, about 1 minute. Move the steaks to the cooler part of the grill and cook until juices appear on top of the steaks, about 4 minutes. Flip the steaks, return to the hottest part of grill, and, using a brush, baste with the reserved marinade. Continue grilling, flipping and brushing every few minutes, until the meat is caramelized and begins to shrink away from the bone, 10–12 minutes for medium rare or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the steaks reads 125°F. (If the outside of the steaks begins to burn before the inside is cooked, move them to the cooler section of the grill and continue grilling until cooked to desired doneness.) Remove the steaks from the grill and set aside to rest for 5 minutes. To serve, slice against the grain along the bone.

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Orecchiette with Octopus Ragù and Chickpea Purée

Stefano D’Onghia — Mon, 26 Aug 2024 19:22:07 +0000

Clay Williams. Clay Williams

At Botteghe Antiche, Chef Stefano D’Onghia makes orecchiette with grano arso flour. Literally translating to “burnt grain,” grano arso is thought to refer to what was left behind after the stubble of harvested wheat fields had been burnt off, often gathered by poor farmers before the next crop was planted. Store-bought pasta will suffice, and you can find dried grano arso orecchiette in specialty Italian food shops. D’Onghia pairs the pasta with indulgent chunks of octopus instead of the traditional broccoli rabe.

Featured in “The Cuisine of Puglia Defies Definition,” by Sebastian Modak.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the chickpea purée:

2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked in cold water for 24 hours, then drained
1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
1 medium celery stalk, coarsely chopped
1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt

For the octopus ragù:

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
10 oz. octopus tentacles, cut into 1⁄2-in. pieces
2 cups cherry tomatoes
1 cup fish stock

For the pasta:

Kosher salt
1 lb. uncooked orecchiette, preferably grano arso

Instructions

Make the chickpea purée: To a medium pot, add the chickpeas, carrot, celery, and onion and enough water to cover by 2 inches. Turn the heat to high to bring to a boil, then turn down to simmer until the chickpeas are very soft, about 2 hours.
Meanwhile, make the octopus ragù: To a large pot over medium heat, add the oil, carrot, celery, and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the octopus, tomatoes, and fish stock, turn the heat to simmer, cover, and cook until the octopus is tender, about 1 hour.
Transfer the chickpeas along with their cooking liquid to a food processor. Add the oil and pulse until smooth. Season to taste with salt.
Make the pasta: Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook the orecchiette, stirring occasionally, until al dente, 8–10 minutes. Strain the pasta, then transfer to the pot of ragù. Stir to coat and remove from the heat.
Divide the chickpea purée evenly among 4–6 pasta bowls, top with the orecchiette, and serve warm.

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Brindisi Seafood Stew

Ernesto Palma — Mon, 26 Aug 2024 19:21:33 +0000

Clay Williams. Clay Williams

At La Sciabica, a seaside outpost in the Adriatic port city of Brindisi, this seafood stew is a culmination of generations of fishermen throwing whatever they’ve got into a pot and feeding a family. In chef Ernesto Palma’s original recipe, he instructs cooks to “look at the sea for a minute” while adjusting the salt to taste before serving.

Featured in “The Cuisine of Puglia Defies Definition,” by Sebastian Modak.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped
Crushed red chile flakes (optional)
14 oz. cuttlefish, cleaned and cut into ½-in. pieces
14 oz. squid, cleaned and cut into ½-in. pieces
Kosher salt
2 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2½ lb. firm white fish, such as rockfish, cleaned and cut into 2-in. pieces
1 lb. hard clams, scrubbed
1 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded
10 medium shrimp
4 large prawns
Finely chopped parsley leaves, for garnish
Toasted crusty bread, for serving

Instructions

To a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the oil, celery, garlic, onion, and chile flakes, if using. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cuttle-fish, squid, tomatoes, and 2½ cups of water. Season lightly with salt, bring to a boil, then turn the heat down to simmer until the cuttlefish and squid are tender, 20–40 minutes (large cuttlefish may take longer to cook). Add the fish, clams, mussels, shrimp, and prawns and cook until the bivalves open, 3–5 minutes.
Drizzle the stew with olive oil, season to taste with salt, garnish with parsley, and serve hot with bread on the side.

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Colombian Stewed Chicken with Achiote and Yam

Víctor Simarra Reyes — Thu, 22 Aug 2024 18:16:37 +0000

Juan Arredondo. Juan Arredondo

This dish is an ode to the tropical landscape and flavors that inform Colombia’s cuisine. Chef Víctor Simarra Reyes highlights yam, chicken, and cassava—all significant ingredients in African foodways—and uses achiote to enhance the region’s spicy, fruity, and peppery tastes. Sweet ají dulce peppers are plentiful in northern Colombia, and in this dish they play a starring role. If you’re unable to find them, you may substitute another mild, thin-fleshed green chile, such as shishito or cubanelle peppers.

Featured in “Colombia and West Africa Unite on the Plate in this Fascinating Food Town,” by Kayla Stewart.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

One 4–5 lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces
18 garlic cloves, finely chopped
10 ají dulce peppers, finely chopped
1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 large tomato, coarsely chopped
1 large yam, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 Tbsp. cumin seeds
2 Tbsp. achiote (annatto) powder
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
Kosher salt 4 cups coconut milk

Instructions

To a large pot, add the chicken, garlic, peppers, onion, tomato, yam, cumin, achiote, and lime juice and toss to combine. Turn heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes.
Add the coconut milk, bring to a boil, then turn heat down and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chicken and yam are tender, about 1½ hours. Remove from heat, season with salt to taste, and serve hot.

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Creole Coconut Chicken

Víctor Simarra Reyes — Thu, 22 Aug 2024 18:15:28 +0000

Juan Arredondo. Juan Arredondo

This creamy and aromatic chicken is cooked down in coconut milk, brightened with fresh tomato and lime. The resulting gravy pairs beautifully with cassava, a dense and starchy tuber integral to foodways of the African diaspora, particularly in Latin America. You may use one whole chicken or an equal weight of Cornish hens, which are traditional in Palenque, Colombia, cuisine.

Featured in “Colombia and West Africa Unite on the Plate in this Fascinating Food Town,” by Kayla Stewart.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

One 4–5 lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces
¼ cup fresh lime juice
2 medium white or yellow onions, finely chopped
2 large, ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
10 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
Kosher salt
4 cups coconut milk
Boiled cassava, for serving (optional)

Instructions

To a large pot, add the chicken and lime juice, tossing well to coat. Add the onions, tomatoes, and garlic, season lightly with salt, then add 4 cups of cool water. Set over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally.
Add the coconut milk, turn the heat to high, and bring to a full boil. Turn the heat back down to cook at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is very tender and the juices have thickened, about 2 hours. Remove from the heat, season to taste with salt and serve hot, with boiled cassava on the side, if desired.

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Grilled Swordfish Kebabs

Meherwan Irani — Wed, 02 Oct 2019 15:16:06 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Chef Meherwan Irani of Chai Pani Restaurant Group likes using swordfish for these machli kebabs, but any firm white fish will work beautifully with the bright, herbaceous marinade. Leave some space between the fish on the skewers—this will ensure that each piece is heated from all sides and cooks evenly. Serve with saffron rice and kachumber, or with naan, fresh herbs, and thinly sliced onions.

Featured in “6 Magnificent Indian Grilling Recipes You Can Pull Off Indoors or Outdoors.”

Yield: 6

Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

For the marinade:

¼ cup fresh lime juice
1 tsp. sugar
½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed
Pinch roasted ground cumin
20 fresh mint leaves
2 medium garlic cloves
1 cup grapeseed or vegetable oil

For the kebabs:

2 lb. swordfish steaks (or another firm white fish), skinned and cut into 1½-in. chunks
¼ cup coarsely chopped dill, for garnish
Ground sumac, for garnish
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Instructions

Make the marinade: To a blender, add the lime juice, sugar, salt, roasted cumin, mint, and garlic and pulse until smooth. (Add 1–2 tablespoons of water if needed to help all the ingredients come together.) With the machine running on low speed, slowly drizzle in the oil until completely incorporated. Transfer ⅓ cup of the marinade to a small bowl, cover, and refrigerate. Reserve the remaining marinade.
Make the kebabs: To a large bowl, add the fish and season lightly with salt. Pour the remaining marinade over the fish and toss well to coat. Cover the bowl loosely with plastic and refrigerate for at least 10 minutes. (Do not marinate longer than 30 minutes, or the lime juice will begin to “cook” the fish.)
Meanwhile, soak ten 8-inch bamboo skewers in cold water for at least 30 minutes before grilling.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high (about 450°F). (Alternatively, heat a grill pan to high.) Drain the skewers and shake off any excess water. Thread 3–4 chunks of fish onto each skewer, leaving a slight gap between each chunk.
Transfer the kebabs to the grill and cook with the grill open until lightly charred on one side, 2–3 minutes. Using a fish or grilling spatula, loosen and flip the kebabs. (If the fish is sticking, give it another minute or so. It should release easily once it’s fully cooked on one side.) Continue cooking until the opposite side is lightly charred and the fish is cooked through, 2–3 minutes more. Transfer to a platter, drizzle the remaining marinade on top, and garnish with dill, sumac, and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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