Issue 126 | Saveur

Ratatouille

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:30:30 +0000

Photo: Linda Pugliese • Food Styling: Christine Albano • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Photo: Linda Pugliese • Food Styling: Christine Albano • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart

Sautéing dried herbes de Provence in extra-virgin olive oil brings out their fragrance in this vegetable dish, which is one of the most iconic expressions of French Provençal cuisine. If you are preparing ratatouille at the height of summer, substitute in-season fresh tomatoes for canned.

Yield: 6

Time: 2 hours

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. dried herbes de Provence
6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
2 large yellow onions, quartered
1 bay leaf
2 medium zucchini (1¼ lb.), cut into 2-in.-thick pieces
1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and quartered
1 medium yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and quartered
1 medium eggplant (1 lb.), cut into 2-in.-thick pieces
10 canned whole peeled tomatoes, drained
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. finely chopped basil leaves
1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley leaves

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F. In a medium pot over medium heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the herbes de Provence, garlic, onions, and bay leaf, cover the pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and fragrant, about 10 minutes.
Turn the heat to high, stir in the zucchini, bell peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Uncover the pot and bake, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned, about 1½ hours.
Remove the pot from the oven, then stir in the basil and parsley. Transfer the ratatouille to a wide bowl and serve warm or at room temperature.

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Pan con Tomate

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:27 +0000

Photo: Linda Xiao • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Summer Moore. Photo: Linda Xiao • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Summer Moore

Pan con tomate translates as bread with tomato, and that’s basically all it is. But what a combination! The dish originated in northern Spain, in the region of Catalonia. There, it’s known as pa amb tomaquet, and it’s usually eaten at lunch or dinner, as a light side dish. But down south in Andalusia, pan con tomate is more often eaten in the morning, and it’s a hearty and luscious food. Its simplicity belies the pleasure that comes whenever it is served. All you need is good-quality olive oil, bread, garlic, a ripe tomato, and a sprinkle of sea salt.

Use the largest holes on a box grater to get at the juicy meat of a beefsteak tomato, discarding most of its skin as you go. Next, rub pieces of toasted baguette with a clove of garlic, drizzle them with olive oil, and top with the sweet grated tomato and a sprinkle of sea salt.

Yield: 4

Time: 15 minutes

Two 6-in. pieces baguette, halved lengthwise
2 garlic cloves, peeled
4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 very ripe large tomatoes
Coarse sea salt

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 500°F. Place the baguette halves on a baking sheet and bake until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Using your fingers, rub the garlic over the cut surface of the toasts, then drizzle with oil.
Place a box grater over a large bowl and grate the cut sides of the tomatoes over the largest holes, discarding the skins. Spoon the grated tomatoes onto the toasts, sprinkle with sea salt, and serve immediately.

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Maman’s Apple Tart

Jacques Pépin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:25 +0000

Photography by Brian Klutch

SAVEUR was the most real food magazine from the get-go. We simply cooked everything, then shot everything. I didn’t know food stylists existed until I went to Bon Appétit, where everybody had an assistant. Was SAVEUR’s corporate culture sustainable? Or even functional? Maybe not, but what an education!

Where else would Jacques Pépin waltz into the test kitchen and start baking his mother’s apple tart? The legend arrived that day, in 2010, wearing crisp chef whites and acting a bit sheepish. He may have, by his own admission, enjoyed too much Champagne with friends the night before. I was fixated on his hands the entire time. You could blindfold this guy, and he could still cook. Pépin pulled the tart from our oven and held it up to the camera for the shot above. Assuming the baking dish couldn’t have been that hot, I picked it up after he set it down—and immediately dropped the thing on the counter. I’m telling you, Jacques Pépin has asbestos fingers, oven mitts for hands. —Hunter Lewis, editor-in-chief of Food & Wine.

Jacques Pépin learned to make this rustic tart from his mother. To form the crust, he suggests covering the dough with plastic wrap to more easily press it into the pan.

Featured in: Saveur’s 25th Anniversary: Memories and Stories from Former Staff

Equipment

Yield: serves 8

Time: 2 hours 15 minutes

1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour
3 Tbsp. sugar, divided
1¼ tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. baking powder
5 Tbsp. chilled, unsalted butter, cut into ½-in. cubes, divided
3 Tbsp. vegetable shortening
2 Tbsp. whole milk
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 large Empire or Cortland apples (1 lb.), peeled and cored, each cut into 8 wedges
2 Tbsp. apricot preserves, warmed slightly in the microwave to soften

Instructions

Preheat the oven (with its rack positioned in the center) to 375°F. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, the salt, and the baking powder. Add 3 tablespoons butter and the shortening and, using your fingers, rub the fat into the flour mixture to form coarse, pea-size pieces. Add the milk and egg, and stir with a wooden spoon until just combined. Press the dough together with your hands and transfer it to a 9-inch glass pie plate. Press the dough evenly along the bottom and sides of the pie plate. Refrigerate until firm to the touch, 30–35 minutes.
Retrieve crust from the fridge, then arrange apple wedges side by side, overlapping slightly around the bottom of the crust, like the spokes of a wheel, pushing gently into the dough as you go. Halve any remaining apple wedges and place them in the center of the tart. Sprinkle with remaining sugar and dot with remaining butter, then transfer to the oven and bake until the crust is golden and apples are tender when poked with a knife, 35–40 minutes. (If the edges begin to brown before the fruit is tender, cover them with strips of aluminum foil.) Remove the tart from the oven and use a pastry brush to carefully brush the apricot preserves over the apples; return the tart to the oven and continue baking until the preserves melt over the fruit in a thin, glossy layer, 4–6 minutes more. Set the tart aside to cool at room temperature for at least 15 minutes before serving.

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Chicken Paprikash

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:36:23 +0000

Get the recipe for Chicken Paprikash ». Jenny Huang | Food Stylist: Tyna Hoang

In this comforting dish based on a recipe from Hungarian home cook Olga Kolozy, braised chicken and paprika gravy are served with buttery homemade dumplings. Pair the dish with an acidic white wine that cuts through the sauce’s richness.

Featured in: Attention: It’s Chicken Paprikash Season

Equipment

Yield: serves 4

Time: 50 minutes

1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
2½ cups plus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 whole chicken (3-4 lb.), cut into 6–8 pieces, skin removed
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cups canola oil
2 tbsp. sweet paprika
1 Italian frying pepper, chopped
2 tomatoes, peeled, cored, seeded, and chopped
1 cup large yellow onion, minced
1½ cups chicken broth
¾ cups sour cream
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Instructions

Bring an 8-quart pot of salted water to a boil. In a bowl, whisk together 2 cups flour and 1 teaspoon salt; form a well in the center. Add the egg and ½ cup water to well; stir to form a dough. Knead in bowl until smooth, about 1 minute. Using a teaspoon, scoop walnut-size portions of dough into the pot. Boil the dumplings until tender, 6–8 minutes. Drain dumplings and rinse in cold water; cover with a tea towel and set aside.
Meanwhile, season the chicken with salt and black pepper. Place 1⁄2 cup flour on a plate; dredge the chicken, shaking off excess. In a 6-quart Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high. Cook the chicken, turning once, until brown, 8–10 minutes; set aside. Add the paprika and half the Italian pepper, along with the tomatoes and onion, to the pot; cook, stirring, until the onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken and broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, turning the chicken once, until fully cooked, 12–15 minutes.
In a small bowl, whisk together the sour cream and 2 tablespoons flour; whisk in ¾ cup sauce from the pot. Stir sour cream mixture into the sauce in the pot. Remove from heat.
In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the dumplings and parsley; cook, tossing occasionally, until hot, about 2 minutes. Garnish the chicken with the remaining Italian pepper; serve with dumplings on the side.

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Green Beans with Sesame Sauce

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:24:23 +0000

Ginger-spiced green beans make a light and simple side dish. Get the recipe for Green Beans with Sesame Sauce ». Todd Coleman

In our SAVEUR 100 list for January/February 2010, reader Christopher Michel praised Japanese cookbook author Harumi Kurihara for her simple and delicious recipes. These ginger-spiced green beans come from a recipe in her cookbook Everyday Harumi (Conran Octopus, 2009).

Yield: serves 6

¹⁄₂ cup sesame seeds, toasted
¹⁄₄ cup soy sauce
2 tbsp. sugar
Kosher salt, to taste
1 lb. green beans, trimmed
2 tbsp. rice vinegar
2 tbsp. finely chopped scallions
2 tsp. minced fresh ginger

Instructions

In a spice grinder or a mortar, finely grind 6 tbsp. sesame seeds. Transfer to a small food processor. Add remaining sesame seeds, soy sauce, and sugar; process into a paste. Set aside.
Bring an 8-qt. pot of salted water to a boil. Add beans; cook until crisp-tender, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer beans to a large bowl of ice water; let chill. Drain and dry beans. Whisk vinegar, scallions, and ginger with reserved sesame paste in a bowl; add beans and toss.

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Dried Lemon Zest

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:31:26 +0000

See the Recipe. André Baranowski

A sprinkling of this dried zest brightens the flavor of roasted beets or squash, green salads, sauces, and soups. For the best results, use unwaxed lemons, such as Meyer lemons.

Yield: makes ABOUT 6 TABLESPOONS

10 lemons, scrubbed

Instructions

Use a microplane or the smallest holes on a box grater to zest lemons. Spread the zest on a sheet of wax paper; let dry at room temperature for at least 24 hours. Fold paper and press to smash the zest into a powder. Will keep, refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.

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Blackberry Slump

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:22 +0000

Photography by Todd Coleman

A cousin of the cobbler, this summery dessert came to us from the now shuttered Four Swallows restaurant on Bainbridge Island, Washington.

Yield: serves 8

2 ¹⁄₄ cups flour
1 ¹⁄₂ cups sugar
2 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2" cubes, chilled, plus 8 tbsp. melted and more for greasing
¹⁄₂ tsp. baking powder
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt
¹⁄₂ cup dry white wine
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 eggs
1 lb. fresh or frozen thawed blackberries
Vanilla ice cream, for serving

Instructions

To make crumb topping, combine 1⁄4 cup flour, 1⁄4 cup sugar, and the 2 tbsp. of chilled cubed butter in the bowl of a food processor and process until mixture takes on texture of coarse bread crumbs, about 10 seconds. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Heat oven to 350°. Grease eight 6 oz. ramekins with butter and dust with flour; set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk remaining flour, baking powder, and salt; set aside. In a large measuring cup, whisk together melted butter and wine; set aside. In a large bowl, whisk together remaining sugar, vanilla, and eggs until pale and thick, about 2 minutes. Add wine mixture to eggs and whisk until smooth. Add flour mixture; mix until just combined. Divide batter between ramekins and top each with berries. Sprinkle reserved crumb topping evenly over berries. Put ramekins on a baking sheet and bake until golden brown and bubbly, about 1 hour. Transfer to a rack and let cool for 20 minutes; serve with scoops of ice cream on top.

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Crabs and Spaghetti

Organic — Wed, 05 Sep 2012 08:00:00 +0000

In this adaptation of a popular southern Italian specialty, king crab legs are a meatier alternative to blue crabs. Get the recipe for Crabs and Spaghetti ». Todd Coleman

In this adaptation of a popular southern Italian specialty, king crab legs are a meatier alternative to blue crabs.

Find this recipe in our cookbook, SAVEUR: Italian Comfort Food

Yield: serves 4

¹⁄₃ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. thawed frozen cooked king crab legs, cut into 3" pieces
1 tsp. celery seed
³⁄₄ crushed red chile flakes
8 leaves fresh basil, plus more for garnish
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, smashed
2 (28-oz.) cans whole peeled tomatoes, undrained
2 tbsp. half-and-half
1 lb. lump crabmeat
Kosher salt, to taste
1 lb. spaghetti

Instructions

Heat oil in a 6-qt. pot over high heat. Add crab legs and cook, turning occasionally, about 5 minutes. Transfer crab to a plate. Add celery seed, chile flakes, basil, onions, and garlic to pot; cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft, about 9 minutes. Transfer mixture to a blender along with tomatoes and half-and-half and puree. Transfer puree back to pot over medium heat. Add reserved crab pieces and any juices from plate and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Add lump crabmeat and continue to cook for another 15 minutes. Season sauce with salt, cover, and set aside.
Meanwhile, bring an 8-qt. pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 10 minutes. Drain pasta and transfer to sauce; toss to combine. Serve garnished with torn basil. Crack crab leg pieces to get at the meat inside.

Pairing Note A crisp, almost neutral vinho verde, like the Casal Garcia Vinho Verde, is a refreshing partner for the sweet and hearty crab sauce. — David Rosengarten

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Rabbit in Mustard Sauce

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:35:40 +0000

This recipe for rabbit cooked in tangy mustard sauce comes from David Tanis, a chef at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. Todd Coleman

This recipe comes from David Tanis, a cookbook author and former chef at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California.

Yield: serves 8

2 rabbits (about 2 1⁄2 lbs. each), each cut into 6 to 8 pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¹⁄₂ lb. pancetta or unsmoked bacon, cut into 1⁄4"-thick strips
1 ¹⁄₂ cups crème fraîche
³⁄₄ cup Dijon mustard
2 tbsp. roughly chopped fresh thyme
2 tbsp. roughly chopped fresh sage
2 tsp. black or yellow mustard seeds, crushed
8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
4 bay leaves

Instructions

Season rabbit generously with salt and pepper and place in a large bowl along with remaining ingredients. Mix together with your hands until rabbit pieces are coated. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let marinate at room temperature for at least 1 hour or overnight in the refrigerator.
If rabbit has been chilled, allow it to come to room temperature. Heat oven to 400° and arrange a rack in the middle of oven. Divide rabbit in a single layer between 2 shallow roasting pans and top with any of the remaining marinade. Roast the rabbit, turning once and basting with pan juices occasionally, until the juices have reduced and rabbit is cooked through, about 55 minutes. Set oven to broil and cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes more. Serve rabbit with pan juices.

Pairing Note Try a rich, low-tannin red, such as the vibrant Justification 2007 from Justin Vineyards in California’s Paso Robles region; it pairs well with the dish’s spicy notes. — David Rosengarten

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Orecchiette with Rapini and Goat Cheese

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:53:37 +0000

Photography by André Baranowski

Slightly bitter rapini (also known as broccoli rabe), marries well with the tangy goat cheese in this dish.

Find this recipe in our cookbook, SAVEUR: Italian Comfort Food

Yield: serves 2-4

Kosher salt, to taste
1 bunch rapini (about 1 lb.), roughly chopped
¹⁄₃ cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 cloves garlic, crushed
³⁄₄ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
12 oz. orecchiette
2 tbsp. lemon zest
4 oz. goat cheese, softened

Instructions

Bring an 8-qt. pot of salted water to a boil. Add rapini and boil until crisp-tender, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer rapini to a large bowl of ice water; chill. Drain rapini, pat dry, and set aside.
Heat oil in a 12″ skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 3 minutes. Add chile flakes and cook, stirring frequently, for 30 seconds. Add rapini, toss, and remove pan from heat; set aside.
Meanwhile, bring a 6-qt. pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes. Drain pasta and transfer pasta and lemon zest to reserved skillet over high heat. Toss to combine and season with salt. Divide pasta between bowls and add a dollop of goat cheese to each.

Pairing Note Pascal Jolivet’s Attitude 2007, a lively sauvignon blanc from France’s Loire Valley, is tailor-made for this dish; its acidity harmonizes with the rapini’s bitterness. — David Rosengarten

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Plum Tart

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:48 +0000

The recipe for this quick and easy tart comes from the fifth edition of Joy of Cooking (Bobbs-Merrill, 1963). Todd Coleman

The recipe for this quick and easy tart comes from the fifth edition of Joy of Cooking (Bobbs-Merrill, 1963).

What You Will Need

Yield: serves 6-8

7 tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2" cubes, plus more for pan
1 cup flour, plus more for baking dish
¹⁄₂ cup plus 2 tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. baking powder
¹⁄₄ tsp. kosher salt
6 tbsp. milk
¹⁄₂ tsp. vanilla extract
1 egg
1 lb. Italian plums or other firm plums, pitted and cut into eighths
¹⁄₂ tsp. ground cinnamon

Instructions

Heat oven to 400°. Grease an 8″ x 8″ baking dish with butter and dust with flour; set aside.
Whisk together flour, 2 tbsp. sugar, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Add 4 tbsp. chilled butter and rub into flour mixture until pea-size pieces form. Mix together milk, vanilla, and egg in a small bowl; add to flour mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until just combined.
Transfer dough to prepared baking dish and spread over the bottom of dish; arrange plum slices in rows on top of dough. Combine remaining sugar and cinnamon and sprinkle over plums. Melt remaining butter and drizzle over plums. Bake until browned and bubbly, about 30 minutes. Let cool slightly before slicing and serving.

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