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Pasta with Spicy Tomato-Beer Sauce

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:34:39 +0000

Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

In this easy pasta dish, based on one served at Birrificio Italiano, a brewery and restaurant in Italy’s Lombardy region, the puttanesca-style sauce is enriched with Bibock, the brewery’s bock-style beer.

Yield: 4

Time: 2 hours 15 minutes

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup salt-packed capers, rinsed
8 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
8 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, roughly chopped
6 oil-packed anchovy fillets, roughly chopped
4 red Fresno chiles, seeded and roughly chopped
4 gherkins, roughly chopped
2 red onions, roughly chopped
One 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes
12 oz. bock beer
¾ cup kalamata olives, pitted and halved
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. long pasta, such as linguine or scialatielli
8 caper berries, for garnish
2 Tbsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Instructions

To a medium pot over medium-high heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the capers, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, anchovies, chiles, gherkins, and onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until the ingredients are browned, about 20 minutes. Add the tomatoes and beer and bring to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens, about 1½ hours. Transfer the sauce to a blender and pulse until smooth, then scrape it back into the pot and place over low heat. Stir in the olives and season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving a little cooking water, then transfer the pasta to the sauce and toss to combine. Stir a little pasta water into the sauce to loosen if needed. Garnish with caper berries and parsley and serve.

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Käsespätzle (Cheese Spaetzle)

SAVEUR Editors — Tue, 15 Jan 2019 19:10:30 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

This satisfying German pasta dish is adapted from the one served at Spatenhaus an der Oper in Munich. The trick to transforming the soft dough into delicate, tender dumplings is well-aerated eggs and and mastering the delivery of batter into the boiling water. Consider picking up an easy-to-use spätzle-maker, or use a bowl scraper and a colander or a potato ricer to extrude the batter directly into the pot.

Featured In “Learn to Make Spätzle: Germany’s Favorite Comfort Food” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

1¾ cups plus 2 Tbsp. (9 oz.) all-purpose flour, divided
1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
1 large yellow onion (7 oz.), half thinly sliced, half finely chopped
1 cup vegetable oil
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
5 large eggs
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup (4 oz.) grated Bavarian bergkäse cheese or Gruyère
2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons of the flour and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Add the sliced half of the onion and toss to coat.
To a medium skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the sliced onions (leave the excess flour behind) and fry, using tongs to stir occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, 9–10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside. Transfer the oil in the skillet to a heatproof bowl and cool completely before discarding. Wipe the skillet clean with paper towels and set aside.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.
Meanwhile, return the skillet to the stove and place over medium heat. Add the butter. When it has melted and the foam begins to subside, add the chopped half of the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent but not yet browned, 8–9 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until very frothy. Add the nutmeg and the remaining flour and salt and whisk to a uniform, thick batter. Continue whisking until bubbles slowly rise to the surface when you stop whisking, about 2 minutes more.
When the water begins to boil, place a spätzle maker or a heat-resistant colander with large holes over the pot. Pour the batter onto the spätzle maker or colander. Working quickly, use a bowl scraper or rubber spatula to force the all of the batter through the holes. Immediately stir the water gently to separate any stuck pieces. When the water returns to a boil, cook the spätzle for 2 minutes, then drain them and rinse well under cold water.
Return the large skillet with the chopped onions to the stove and place it over medium-high heat. When the onions begin to sizzle, add the spätzle and cheese. Stir until the spätzle is hot and the cheese is fully melted. Season to taste with salt, then transfer to a large bowl or four small plates. Top with the chives and reserved fried onions, sprinkle with black pepper, and serve immediately.

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Broccoli Strascinati (Sautéed Broccoli with Garlic and Chile)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:27:43 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Strascinati, which means “dragged,” refers to a technique for sautéing in olive oil with plenty of garlic and chiles. This Roman side dish, which pairs beautifully with porchetta or pork chops, can be made with regular broccoli, broccoli rabe, or broccoli romano, known in the U.S. as romanesco.

Featured in “Roman Contorni” by Dana Bowen.

Yield: 2–4

Time: 15 minutes

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. broccoli, stemmed and cut into florets
3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
½ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
Kosher salt

Instructions

To a large skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the broccoli and cook, turning occasionally, until lightly browned, 6–8 minutes. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons of water, then add the garlic and cook until golden, 2–3 minutes. Add the chile flakes and continue cooking until toasted, about 2 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and serve immediately.

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Marcella Hazan’s Braised Celery with Tomatoes

Marcella Hazan — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:37 +0000

Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

This sedano e pomodori brasati (braised celery and tomato) recipe, adapted from celebrated Italian cookbook author Marcella Hazan, produces results that are surprising from celery: creamy, sweet, luscious. The stalks’ stringy fibers, often removed before cooking, here act as a brace that helps the vegetable keep its shape through a long simmer.

Featured in “The Soft Approach: In Praise of Soft-Cooked Vegetables” by Lesley Porcelli.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours

3 oz. pancetta, cut into 1-in. pieces
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 bunches celery (about 2 lb.), stalks trimmed and cut on the bias into 2-in. pieces
¾ cup whole peeled canned tomatoes with their juices, crushed by hand
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large pot over medium-high heat, add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders, about 12 minutes. (If the pancetta begins to brown too fast, turn the heat to medium-low.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside to drain.
Return the pot to medium-high heat and add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and light brown, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, tomatoes, and ¼ cup of water and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cover the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the celery is very tender, about 1½ hours.
Transfer the celery with its juices to a serving bowl and sprinkle with the reserved pancetta. Serve hot or at room temperature.

The post Marcella Hazan’s Braised Celery with Tomatoes appeared first on Saveur.

Tinto de Verano

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:45:54 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Tinto de verano, which translates to “red wine of summer,” is a surprising combination of red wine and lemon-lime soda. This cooling spritzer is a perfect refreshment for hot summer days. If a lightly sweetened lemon-lime soda like lemon Fanta or Spain’s La Casera (known locally as “gaseosa” or soda) can’t be found, you can substitute Squirt or 7Up cut with a splash of plain seltzer.

Yield: 1 cocktail

Time: 5 minutes

¾ cup red wine, preferably Spanish, such as rioja
¾ cup lightly sweetened lemon-lime soda
1 lemon or orange wedge, for garnish
Seltzer (optional)

Instructions

To a glass filled halfway with ice, add the red wine and soda. Garnish with a lemon wedge. If the drink is too sweet, add a splash of seltzer.

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Ricotta-Stuffed Squash Blossoms with Fried Zucchini Coins

Stefano D’Onghia — Mon, 26 Aug 2024 19:22:17 +0000

Clay Williams. Clay Williams

Chef Stefano D’Onghia opened Botteghe Antiche on a storybook square in the town of Putignano after apprenticing at several high-end restaurants around Southern Italy. “You have to walk a careful line between respecting tradition and innovating,” he says of his constantly changing menu, which leans toward cheeky takes on Pugliese classics. This dish seems designed to foreground versatility: a single plant, torn asunder to build two very different experiences. The lightness of airy, minty ricotta nestled in delicate zucchini flowers provides a bite-by-bite counterpoint to the heartier fried zucchini coins.

Featured in “The Cuisine of Puglia Defies Definition,” by Sebastian Modak.

Yield: 4

Time: 50 minutes

2 medium zucchinis
8 zucchini flowers, with stems
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
¼ cup vegetable broth
3 scallions, ends discarded, cut into 3-in. lengths
Kosher salt
2 cups sheep’s milk ricotta
1 mint sprig, finely chopped
¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano

Instructions

Cut the zucchinis into ¼-inch coins, place on a clean kitchen towel, and leave to dry at room temperature for 24 hours.
Gently rinse the zucchini flowers. Remove the stems and coarsely chop them. (Set the flowers aside.) Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F.
To a medium skillet set over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons of the oil, the vegetable broth, and the chopped stems and cook until the stems are tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a blender, add the scallions and 2 more tablespoons of the oil, blend until smooth, and season to taste with salt.
In a small bowl, stir together the ricotta and mint and season to taste with salt. Fill the zucchini flowers evenly with the ricotta mixture and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle the pecorino evenly over the flowers and bake until the flowers are light golden brown, about 8 minutes.
To a medium skillet set over medium-high heat, add the remaining tablespoon of oil. When it is hot, working in batches, add the zucchini coins and cook, flipping once, until golden brown on both sides, about 5 minutes per batch.
To serve, dollop the zucchini-stem cream evenly onto four plates, using the back of a spoon to spread slightly. Divide the zucchini flowers and coins among the plates and serve warm.

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Orecchiette with Octopus Ragù and Chickpea Purée

Stefano D’Onghia — Mon, 26 Aug 2024 19:22:07 +0000

Clay Williams. Clay Williams

At Botteghe Antiche, Chef Stefano D’Onghia makes orecchiette with grano arso flour. Literally translating to “burnt grain,” grano arso is thought to refer to what was left behind after the stubble of harvested wheat fields had been burnt off, often gathered by poor farmers before the next crop was planted. Store-bought pasta will suffice, and you can find dried grano arso orecchiette in specialty Italian food shops. D’Onghia pairs the pasta with indulgent chunks of octopus instead of the traditional broccoli rabe.

Featured in “The Cuisine of Puglia Defies Definition,” by Sebastian Modak.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the chickpea purée:

2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked in cold water for 24 hours, then drained
1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
1 medium celery stalk, coarsely chopped
1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt

For the octopus ragù:

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
10 oz. octopus tentacles, cut into 1⁄2-in. pieces
2 cups cherry tomatoes
1 cup fish stock

For the pasta:

Kosher salt
1 lb. uncooked orecchiette, preferably grano arso

Instructions

Make the chickpea purée: To a medium pot, add the chickpeas, carrot, celery, and onion and enough water to cover by 2 inches. Turn the heat to high to bring to a boil, then turn down to simmer until the chickpeas are very soft, about 2 hours.
Meanwhile, make the octopus ragù: To a large pot over medium heat, add the oil, carrot, celery, and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the octopus, tomatoes, and fish stock, turn the heat to simmer, cover, and cook until the octopus is tender, about 1 hour.
Transfer the chickpeas along with their cooking liquid to a food processor. Add the oil and pulse until smooth. Season to taste with salt.
Make the pasta: Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook the orecchiette, stirring occasionally, until al dente, 8–10 minutes. Strain the pasta, then transfer to the pot of ragù. Stir to coat and remove from the heat.
Divide the chickpea purée evenly among 4–6 pasta bowls, top with the orecchiette, and serve warm.

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Brindisi Seafood Stew

Ernesto Palma — Mon, 26 Aug 2024 19:21:33 +0000

Clay Williams. Clay Williams

At La Sciabica, a seaside outpost in the Adriatic port city of Brindisi, this seafood stew is a culmination of generations of fishermen throwing whatever they’ve got into a pot and feeding a family. In chef Ernesto Palma’s original recipe, he instructs cooks to “look at the sea for a minute” while adjusting the salt to taste before serving.

Featured in “The Cuisine of Puglia Defies Definition,” by Sebastian Modak.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped
Crushed red chile flakes (optional)
14 oz. cuttlefish, cleaned and cut into ½-in. pieces
14 oz. squid, cleaned and cut into ½-in. pieces
Kosher salt
2 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2½ lb. firm white fish, such as rockfish, cleaned and cut into 2-in. pieces
1 lb. hard clams, scrubbed
1 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded
10 medium shrimp
4 large prawns
Finely chopped parsley leaves, for garnish
Toasted crusty bread, for serving

Instructions

To a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the oil, celery, garlic, onion, and chile flakes, if using. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cuttle-fish, squid, tomatoes, and 2½ cups of water. Season lightly with salt, bring to a boil, then turn the heat down to simmer until the cuttlefish and squid are tender, 20–40 minutes (large cuttlefish may take longer to cook). Add the fish, clams, mussels, shrimp, and prawns and cook until the bivalves open, 3–5 minutes.
Drizzle the stew with olive oil, season to taste with salt, garnish with parsley, and serve hot with bread on the side.

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Danish Salted Cucumber Salad

Niclas Grønhøj Møller — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:51:47 +0000

Chris Tonnesen. Chris Tonnesen

As is true in much of northern Europe, pickles are very traditional in Danish cooking. “In many classic dishes, cucumbers are thinly sliced and pickled in a sweet-sour brine, then served as a side to fried meats like chicken,” says Copenhagen chef Niclas Grønhøj Møller. Instead of using a brine to season his cucumbers, he salts them heavily and squeezes them with lemon, giving them a pickly saltiness and slight acidity.

Featured in “What Would It Take for an American Guy to Become Danish?” by Andrew Richdale.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 30 minutes

2 English cucumbers (about 2 lb.), cut lengthwise, seeded, and sliced ¼ inch thick on the bias
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus more as needed
2 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh chervil or cilantro
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill
Edible flowers, such as chive, turnip, forget-me-not, or cabbage flowers, for garnish

Instructions

In a medium bowl, toss the cucumbers with the lemon juice and salt. Set aside for 15–30 minutes (the longer the cucumbers rest, the less water they will have and the saltier they will taste).
Drain and discard the excess liquid, taste the cucumbers, and adjust the seasoning with more salt and lemon juice as needed. Add the chervil and dill, and toss to coat. Transfer the mixture to a large platter. Garnish with edible flowers and serve.

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Seasonal Squash Tart

Alex Saggiomo — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:32 +0000

Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Barrett Washburne • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Barrett Washburne • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart

By using seasonal squash, this light and tasty dish—developed by Denver, Colorado-based chef Alex Saggiomo—can be made year-round. Try it with zucchini and yellow squash in the summer, then use all butternut in the fall. Feel free to get creative with the topping for this tart, which will help stretch leftover squash and other vegetables—whichever adventure you choose, it will pair beautifully with the buttery pastry and tangy goat cheese topping.

Yield: 2–4

Time: 2 hours

One 10- by 15-in. sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed and rolled out slightly to soften
½ medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into large cubes
3 garlic cloves
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
¼ cup heavy cream
½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest
3 Tbsp. fresh goat cheese, divided
1 medium yellow summer squash, sliced into ¼-in. rounds
1 medium zucchini, sliced into ¼-in. rounds
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F.
Line a large baking sheet with parchment, then place the puff pastry on it. Using a fork, create a border around the edges, poking holes throughout the dough of the sheet to prevent it from rising. Place another sheet of parchment over the top and place dried beans or pie weights over the surface. Bake until the edges rise slightly, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature. Turn the oven up to 400°F.
Line a second large baking sheet with foil, then arrange the butternut squash and garlic atop it in a single layer. Toss with oil and season lightly with salt and black pepper. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature. Turn the oven down to 375°F.
When the butternut squash has cooled, transfer to a food processor along with the cream, lemon zest, and half of the goat cheese, then process until smooth.
On the reserved pastry sheet, spread the butternut squash purée in an even layer, leaving a thin border along all four edges. Arrange the yellow squash and zucchini slices over the top, allowing each one to slightly overlap. Drizzle a little oil over the top, then dot with the remaining goat cheese. Bake until the squash is slightly browned, about 30 minutes. Remove the tart from the oven and allow to cool slightly. Cut into slices and serve warm or at room temperature.

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Maiale in Agrodolce (Sweet and Sour Pork Chops)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:05 +0000

Michael Kraus. Michael Kraus

Honey and balsamic vinegar are the sweet and sour agents in the glaze for these Italian-style grilled pork chops. Known as maiale in agrodolce, they’re typical of the sturdy, lusty food found in Roman neighborhood restaurants and home kitchens alike. The juicy, flame-kissed meat pairs well with peperonata (stewed sweet peppers), roasted potatoes, or sautéed greens.

Featured in “Eternal Pleasures” by Anya von Bremzen.

Yield: 4

Time: 50 minutes

Four 10-oz. bone-in pork chops
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅓ cup balsamic vinegar
2 Tbsp. honey
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 fresh rosemary sprig, torn into 1-in. pieces

Instructions

On a large plate, drizzle the pork chops with the oil, season to taste with salt and black pepper, and set aside for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. To a small pot over medium heat, add the vinegar and honey, and cook until reduced to ¼ cup. Stir in the butter and rosemary, and set aside.
Grill the pork chops, turning and basting with the balsamic mixture occasionally, until browned and cooked through, 12–14 minutes. Transfer to a platter, allow to rest for 5 minutes, and serve.

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