Issue 200 | Saveur

Ravioli Nudi

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:45:40 +0000

CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

Ravioli nudi are an unexpected surprise: stripped-down ravioli, hence “naked” by name. The only tricky part to this simple recipe is using the least amount of flour needed to keep the dumplings intact as they cook. Avoid using pre-grated parmesan cheese which often contains added starches and preservatives.

Featured in: Our Best Recipes of All Time

Yield: 4

Time: 50 minutes

Kosher salt
1 lb. fresh baby spinach
½ lb. whole-milk ricotta, drained
4 large egg yolks
1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more, for sprinkling
½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest
Cayenne pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
¼ cup unsalted butter, melted

Instructions

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the spinach and cook until wilted and very tender but still bright green, 8–10 minutes. Drain the spinach, discarding the cooking liquid, then transfer to a clean kitchen towel; squeeze to extract as much liquid as possible. (If there is too much moisture on the leaves, the ravioli will fall apart during cooking.) Finely chop the spinach and and set aside.
In a large bowl, stir together the ricotta, egg yolks, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and lemon zest. Add the reserved spinach and toss to combine, then season to taste with cayenne, nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Add the flour and stir gently just until incorporated.
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a simmer over medium heat. With wet hands or a 1-tablespoon scoop, shape the spinach mixture into 1-inch balls. Drop one ball into the simmering water and cook until it floats to the top; if it holds its shape, continue with the remaining mixture. If the ball falls apart, add additional flour to the mixture, 1–2 teaspoons at a time, until it holds together in the water. Cook the dumplings in batches. As they float to the top, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a large plate and tent with aluminum foil to keep them warm as you continue cooking the rest. To serve, drizzle with melted butter, top with additional Parmigiano, and serve warm.

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Tartine’s Teff Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting

Elizabeth Preuitt — Thu, 19 Mar 2020 14:35:56 +0000

Photography by JENNY HUANG; FOOD STYLING: EUGENE IHO

As soon as we decided to put a birthday cake on our cover, I knew just where it should come from: Tartine, the San Francisco bakery behind what Alice Waters described as “the platonic ideal of a birthday cake.” Waters wrote that in her forward to the 2006 book Tartine, in which the bakery’s founders, Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson, shared recipes for some of their most beloved treats. In 2019, a rebooted version of the book included 68 new recipes. My favorite addition? The gorgeous carrot cake gracing the cover of SAVEUR’s 25th anniversary issue. When I called, Prueitt actually flew to New York to bake the thing in our test kitchen. Thanks, Liz, for making our 25th birthday such a special one.

For this rich and textured carrot cake recipe, Prueitt uses dark and nutty teff flour as its primary starch, which happens to make it gluten-free. —Kat Craddock

Featured in “Bake Our 25th Anniversary Cake”.

Yield: 12–16

Time: 1 hour 55 minutes

Ingredients

For the cake:

1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, for greasing
1¾ cups raisins
1 cup sugar
1 cup coconut sugar or ¾ cup packed brown sugar
4 large eggs
1 lb. peeled, grated carrots (3½ cups)
1 cup whole milk
¾ cup olive oil
2 tsp. finely grated orange zest
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. (5¼ oz.) teff flour
⅔ cup (2½ oz.) potato starch
½ cup (2½ oz.) rice flour
2½ tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. ground cloves
½ tsp. ground nutmeg
2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
1½ cups (7 oz.) toasted walnuts
½ cup unsweetened shredded coconut

For the frosting:

1 cup (8 oz.) cream cheese, at room temperature
6 Tbsp. (3 oz.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3 cups (13 oz.) confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
¼ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

Preheat the oven (with its rack positioned in the center) to 350°F. Butter the bottom and sides of two 9-inch round cake pans and line the bottoms with parchment paper. In a small bowl, cover the raisins with hot water, soak to plump for 10 minutes, then drain and set aside.
In a large bowl, using a handheld mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, use medium speed to whip the sugar, coconut sugar or brown sugar, and eggs until thickened and light in color, about 4 minutes. (When you lift up the whisk, the mixture should fall back into the bowl in ribbons.) Add the carrots, milk, olive oil, and orange zest, and mix well to combine.
In a separate bowl, stir together the teff flour, potato starch, rice flour, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Add the flour mixture to the egg mixture and, using a rubber spatula, fold just until combined, then fold in the reserved raisins, walnuts, and shredded coconut. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans, then transfer them to the oven and bake until a knife inserted into the centers comes out clean, rotating the pans 180° halfway through cooking, 35–40 minutes. Let the cakes cool in their pans on a wire rack for about 10 minutes before unmolding. To unmold, run a thin knife around the edge of the pan, and then invert the cake onto the wire rack and turn rightside up. Let cool completely, then transfer the cakes to the refrigerator and chill for at least 30 minutes before frosting.
Make the frosting: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese and butter on medium-high speed until fluffy and light, 3 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar, lemon juice, and salt and mix until smooth. Use immediately or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 days. (Soften to room temperature before using.)
To finish the cake, spread half of the icing on top of one of the cake layers, cover with the second layer, and smooth the remainder of the icing over the top and sides (or leave the sides bare). Cut the carrot cake into wedges and serve at room temperature or cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

The post Tartine’s Teff Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting appeared first on Saveur.

Carter Rochelle’s Texas Chili

Carter Rochelle — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:38:48 +0000

Photography by Christopher Testani

Beef suet and masa give this Lone Star chili (no beans, no tomatoes) its distinctive flavor. The recipe comes from Carter Rochelle, a native Houstonian and chili connoisseur. Find all of our best chili recipes here.

Featured in: “Our Best Recipes of All Time.”

Equipment

Yield: serves 6

Time: 4 hours 30 minutes

6 oz. beef suet, coarsely chopped
3 lb. trimmed beef chuck, cut into ½-in. pieces
6 tbsp. chili powder
4 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup masa harina
4 cups beef stock or low-sodium beef broth, warm
3 tbsp. white vinegar
Cayenne pepper
Chopped cilantro, for garnish
Tabasco, for serving
Thinly sliced scallions, for garnish
Tabasco, for serving
Saltines, for serving
Sour cream, for serving

Instructions

In a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, melt the suet, stirring frequently, 8–9 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to discard any solids. Working in batches if necessary, add the chuck and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned all over, 8–10 minutes. Turn the heat to medium and stir in the chili powder, garlic, and salt and black pepper to taste. Add the masa harina and stir to coat, then gradually pour in the broth, vinegar, and 4 cups of water. Turn the heat to medium-low and cook, partially covered and stirring occasionally, until the meat begins to fall apart, about 4 hours, adding water as needed to prevent sticking. Season with additional salt, black pepper, and cayenne to taste.
To serve, ladle the chili into bowls and garnish with the cilantro and scallions. Accompany with Tabasco, saltines, and sour cream.

The post Carter Rochelle’s Texas Chili appeared first on Saveur.

Gougères

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:23:11 +0000

Christopher Testani. Christopher Testani

A favorite of Test Kitchen staffers and readers for over 20 years, these irresistible French “cheese puffs” are the perfect hors d’oeuvre. Believed to originally come from Burgundy, these savory choux pastries are commonly made with grated Gruyère, but Comté or Emmentaler work just as well. Gougères freeze nicely so it is easy to transport to parties and gatherings. They are best enjoyed as appetizers while the cheese is still warm but can be served at room temperature for wine tastings.

Featured in: “Our Best Recipes of All Time.”

Yield: makes 45

Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

½ cups whole milk
8 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut in small cubes
½ tsp. kosher salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, at room temperature
6 oz. Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated (1 1/2 cups)

Instructions

Preheat the oven (with its 2 racks evenly spaced) to 425°F. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
To a medium pot, add the milk, butter, salt, and ½ cup water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the flour and use a wooden spoon to beat the mixture until a soft dough forms. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pot as you stir, 2–3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl, then use a hand mixer to beat in 1 egg until smooth. Repeat with the remaining eggs until all are incorporated, then stir in the cheese.
Using a 1-ounce scoop or medium spoon, portion 2-tablespoon-size scoops of batter onto the lined baking sheets, leaving at least 2 inches between each scoop. Quickly transfer the gougères to the oven and immediately lower the temperature to 375°F. Bake until firm and pale golden brown, 25–30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

The post Gougères appeared first on Saveur.

Sherry Tres Leches Gelatina

Bricia Lopez — Mon, 04 May 2020 19:02:41 +0000

Photography by Quentin Bacon

This recipe is adapted from the book Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Bricia Lopez and Javier Cabral. Get the recipe for Sherry Tres Leches Gelatina Quentin Bacon

Gelatina is a lifestyle in Oaxaca, where it can be found in all shapes, colors, and flavors. Combined with the creamy tres leches layer, sherry creates a boozy and refreshing Creamsicle-like effect.

Featured in: Return to Oaxaca

Equipment

Yield: serves 20

Time: 4 hours 30 minutes

¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. (2 oz.) powdered gelatin, divided
³⁄₄ cup sugar
1½ cups Mexican sherry, or substitute another sweet sherry
2 cups sweetened condensed milk
1½ cups evaporated milk
1 cinnamon stick
¼ tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup half-and-half

Instructions

First, prepare the sherry gelatin: To a medium, heatproof bowl, add ½ cup cold water and 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons gelatin. Stir to hydrate and set aside until it has completely absorbed the liquid, about 5 minutes.
In a small pot over high heat, bring 3 cups water and the sugar to a boil, stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and add the sherry and the gelatin mixture, stirring to completely dissolve. Divide evenly among twenty 5-ounce ramekins. Transfer to the fridge and chill until the liquid has gelled, at least 2 hours.
Meanwhile, prepare the tres leches gelatin: To a medium, heatproof bowl, add ½ cup cold water and the remaining 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons gelatin. Stir to hydrate and set aside until it has completely absorbed the liquid, about 5 minutes.
To a small pot over medium-high heat, add 2 cups water, the sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, and cinnamon stick, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla and the gelatin mixture. Cool to room temperature, then remove and discard the cinnamon stick and stir in the half-and-half. Retrieve the ramekins from the fridge and carefully divide the milk mixture over the sherry layer. Refrigerate until the second layer is set, at least 2 hours or up to overnight. (If refrigerating longer than 2 hours, cover with plastic wrap.)
To serve, dip the bottom of each ramekin in a bowl of hot water to loosen, then invert onto dessert plates and serve cold.

The post Sherry Tres Leches Gelatina appeared first on Saveur.

Nopalito Salad with Guajillo Chiles

Bricia Lopez — Mon, 04 May 2020 18:48:42 +0000

Nopales are an essential part of the Oaxacan diet. With a meaty texture and tart flavor, raw, salted cactus paddles retain their natural vibrant color. Get the recipe for Nopalito Salad with Guajillo Chiles >>. Quentin Bacon

Nopales are an essential part of the Oaxacan diet. With a meaty texture and tart flavor, raw, salted cactus paddles retain their natural vibrant color.

Featured in: Return to Oaxaca

Equipment

Yield: serves 4

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

1 lb. nopales, dethorned and cut into ½-inch squares (4½ cups), divided
3 medium garlic cloves, peeled, plus 1 tsp. minced garlic
¼ cup finely chopped white onion
2 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more as needed
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 guajillo chile, seeded, cut into thin strips
1 chile de arból, seeded
¹¹⁄₂ tsp. Mexican oregano
Pinch of freshly ground cumin
1 tsp. distilled white vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a medium pot, add 3¼ cups of the nopales, the garlic cloves, onion, and enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook until the nopales turn light green, about 10 minutes, then drain, discarding the cooking liquid. (This first round of cooking removes the goo from the nopales.) Return the nopales to the pot, and add 2 teaspoons salt and enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then lower the heat to medium-low to maintain a strong simmer, and cook until the nopales are tender when poked with the tip of a knife, 18– 22 minutes. Drain, once again discarding the cooking liquid. Remove and discard the garlic, and set the nopales aside.
To a medium bowl, add the remaining ¾ cup raw nopales and 1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons salt, and toss well to combine. Set aside at room temperature until the nopales have softened and released their slime, about 20 minutes. Rinse and drain well, then set aside.
To a large skillet over medium heat, add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the minced garlic, guajillo chile, chile de arból, reserved boiled nopales, oregano, and cumin, and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, cook for 1 minute more, then remove the skillet from the heat. Add the reserved raw, salted nopales and toss well to combine; season to taste with black pepper and additional salt, then transfer to a large bowl and serve at room temperature.

The post Nopalito Salad with Guajillo Chiles appeared first on Saveur.

Chicken with Chipotle Mole (Pollo Enchipotlado)

Bricia Lopez — Mon, 04 May 2020 18:22:40 +0000

This recipe is adapted from the book Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Bricia Lopez and Javier Cabral. Get the recipe for Chicken with Chipotle Mole (Pollo Enchipotlado) . Quentin Bacon

This recipe is adapted from the book Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Bricia Lopez and Javier Cabral. Quentin Bacon

This is an everyday dish for author Bricia Lopez’s family. The creamy sauce, similar to a tinga, is rarely found in restaurants in Oaxaca. Rather, it’s more of a dish to be cooked and eaten with loved ones at home.

Featured in: Return to Oaxaca

Equipment

Yield: serves 4

Time: 1 hour 50 minutes

One 2–21/4 lb. chicken, butchered into 8 pieces and skin removed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
2 lb. Roma tomatoes, coarsely chopped (5¼ cups)
¼ cups finely chopped white onion
4 medium garlic cloves, peeled
3 whole canned chipotles in adobo, plus 2 Tbsp. adobo sauce
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
3 bay leaves
Mexican crema, for drizzling
Warm corn tortillas, for serving

Instructions

Season the chicken generously with salt and ground black pepper, then rub with the mustard. Set aside to marinate for 10–15 minutes.
To a medium pot, add the tomatoes and enough cold water to cover them. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have softened and the liquid has reduced slightly, 10–15 minutes. Remove from heat and drain the tomatoes, discarding any remaining cooking liquid. Transfer the tomatoes to a blender and set aside.
Preheat a broiler to its highest setting. Meanwhile, spread the onion out on a small baking sheet. Broil, stirring occasionally, until lightly charred all over, 6–10 minutes. Add the garlic and broil 3–7 minutes more, then transfer to the blender with the tomatoes. Add the chipotles and adobo, and blend until very smooth. Place a fine mesh strainer over a large bowl and use a small ladle or a silicone spatula to press the mixture through it.
In a large deep skillet or wide pot, heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat. When it just begins to smoke, add the marinated chicken pieces in a single layer and cook, turning occasionally, until deep golden brown all over, 8–10 minutes. Add the reserved sauce to the skillet along with the bay leaves and stir well to submerge the chicken. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to maintain a strong simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is tender and cooked through and the sauce has thickened, 15–20 minutes. Drizzle with Mexican crema and serve with warm tortillas on the side.

The post Chicken with Chipotle Mole (Pollo Enchipotlado) appeared first on Saveur.

Return to Oaxaca

Bricia Lopez — Mon, 04 May 2020 19:19:20 +0000

Memelas, sope-like snacks particular to Oaxaca, cook on the comal at Memelas Doña Mago. Denny Culbert

Author Bricia Lopez and her son, Eduardo. Denny Culbert

When my father moved our family from Oaxaca to Los Angeles in 1994, he told us we would only be there for a year. I was 9 years old then, excited to learn a new language and enamored with the America I saw on TV shows like Saved by the Bell and Full House. I said goodbye to my school friends and the neighborhood kids, telling them I’d be back soon, not realizing that one year would become 25 in the blink of an eye.

Left to Right: In Oaxaca, parades are an almost daily occurrence; The Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán in Oaxaca de Juárez. Denny Culbert

Our life in Oaxaca had been simple. My dad traveled from town to town, selling his mezcal. My mom cooked, cleaned, sewed, and tended to me and my three siblings. We spent weekends and holidays at my maternal grandmother’s house in San Pablo Villa de Mitla, a small town an hour outside the city. The long braids my grandma wore every day, each interwoven with a brown ribbon, always smelled of smoked pasilla chiles; her hands were coarse from decades passed in front of the comal, making corn tortillas.

Get the recipe for Chicken with Chipotle Mole (Pollo Enchipotlado) Quentin Bacon

In the 1990s, the Mexican economy was in crisis. Oaxaca, already among the nation’s poorest states, was hit particularly hard, and my father, just one of many Oaxaquenos who sought work in the United States. “We all said we’d leave for a year or two at most,” he admits. “But we got caught up in the American way of life.”

Lopez and her father, Fernando, at Mercado de Tlacolula. Denny Culbert

Shortly after settling in Los Angeles, my parents opened Guelaguetza, a restaurant in the heart of Koreatown. Although things were slow at first, the restaurant began to flourish once local paisanos learned that there was finally real Oaxacan food in LA. The money my father intended to save for his mezcal business back home was instead invested in a second restaurant, and later a third, fourth, fifth, and sixth.

A roadside fruit stand outside Oaxaca de Juárez. Denny Culbert

Then, in 2008, the Great Recession struck the United States, and our lives were again upended. Over the next few years, my parents shuttered one restaurant after another, until only the original Guelaguetza survived. My siblings and I had grown up there, bussing tables and doing schoolwork in the kitchen. None of us ever played sports or musical instruments, but we were skilled hostesses, servers, and cooks from a very young age. Which is probably why we dreamed of running away to cushy corporate jobs. Yet the moment our mom and dad—battered by the process of closing five restaurants—told us they were ready to retire, my siblings and I realized we were ready to step up. In 2012, we bought Guelaguetza from our parents, and they went back to Oaxaca.

Left to Right: Tomato grower José Melchor Pérez founded a farm partnership that employs more than 800 locals; Elvia León Hernández (left) and her son Jorge León run the eatery Alfonsina out of their home’s kitchen. Denny Culbert

That’s the thing about Oaxaca: You can leave it, but it never leaves you. Known as the “land of the seven moles,” Oaxaca is also the land of the Zapotec, Mixtec, Mazatec, Mixe, and other proud indigenous peoples. Because the Spanish ruled some rugged pockets of the state in name only, its culture remains closely tied to ancient flavors, techniques, and ingredients. Native corn, chiles, agave, and cacao form the bedrock of Oaxaca’s cuisine, as well as its agricultural economy and strong sense of community.

Left to Right: Miguel Martínez Cruz, co-owner of the popular pub Ilegales; fourth generation mezcalero Eduardo Ángeles launched his own brand, Lalocura, in 2014. Denny Culbert

The name my father chose for our restaurant speaks to the soul of Oaxaca. Zapotec in origin, guelaguetza means “to give or share.” It describes an ongoing ritual of kindness, of helping your neighbor no matter how little you may have. The Oaxaqueños who emigrated to America during the 1990s and 2000s brought this spirit of generosity with them, introducing the larger world to something even warmer, deeper, and more complex than mole or mezcal. And it may explain why these unwitting Oaxacan ambassadors are now returning to a state with a burgeoning tourism industry and increased economic opportunities.

Get the recipe for Nopalito Salad with Guajillo Chiles Quentin Bacon

Nineteen years ago, Eduardo Ángeles was cleaning carpets in Huntington Beach, California, when his landlord, also a Mexican immigrant, presented himself as a cautionary tale—urging Ángeles to prioritize passion over the next paycheck, or risk winding up alone in a foreign country with nothing to show for his work. Within a month, Ángeles was back in the Oaxacan town of Santa Catarina Minas, helping his father run the family’s mezcal brand. In 2014, the fourth-generation mezcalero debuted his own mezcal, Lalocura, to widespread critical acclaim. Ángeles shrugs off the glowing reviews, and his master distiller title. “At the end of the day, we are all farmers,” he insists.

A worker at the Lalocura distillery removes the agave plants’ spiky leaves. Denny Culbert

José Melchor Pérez, who farms tomatoes in the Oaxacan town of San Pablo Güila, credits a few less-than-happy years in America with his success. It was while picking produce near San Jose, California, that Melchor Peréz first encountered a greenhouse. Today, the agricultural partnership he founded, Daan Llia, claims more than 300 greenhouses that yield approximately 3,000 tons of produce a year. Together, he and the partnership’s other members employ at least 800 local people, 75 percent of them women. What Melchor Peréz really aims to cultivate, however, is hope for Oaxaca’s future. “Kids won’t have to leave anymore,” he explains, “because they can call this project their own.”

Omar Alonso, pictured at Ilegales, promotes Oaxaca through his Instagram feed, @oaxacking. Denny Culbert

I could go on and on, telling you about Omar Alonso, who returned from California and founded the tour-guide company Oaxacking, or about Miguel Martínez Cruz and Mario Cruz Santos, who used savings from their stint in the States to establish Ilegales, a pub that serves burgers, beer, and a wide variety of mezcal. But I’d rather you visit Oaxaca and see these things for yourself.

Saveur visited the now legendary Restaurante Tlamanalli for the magazine’s debut cover story 25 years ago. Denny Culbert

I still live in Los Angeles, so the time I spend in Oaxaca invariably ends at the airport, with a stop at nearby Alfonsina for my final meal. Jorge León and his mother, Elvia León Hernández, serve customers out of their home kitchen, offering her memelitas and various egg dishes for breakfast before he takes charge at night. A Oaxacan returnee of a different sort, León left for Mexico City, where he cooked at Pujol, one of the country’s most famous restaurants. His tasting menu at Alfonsina reinterprets Oaxacan traditions and ingredients in an incredibly sophisticated way.

This rich and fragrant sauce is labor intensive, bit it batches up easily and freezes well. Stock up! Get the recipe for Enmoladas with Oaxacan Black Mole Sauce (Mole Negro) Quentin Bacon

It is a beautiful thing to witness, two generations sharing one Oaxacan kitchen, combining past and present. And it makes me think about my relationship with my parents and with my 4-year-old son. I almost always bring him along when I visit my mom and dad, which I do often. They live now on my late grandmother’s land in San Pablo Villa de Mitla, in a newly built house, dubbed Casa Elizabeth in her honor.

Heirloom corn and other crops are interplanted with the agave at the Lalocura distillery. Denny Culbert

There, my mother makes enfrijoladas and squash-vine soup, accompanied by tortillas cooked on the wood- fired comal out back. When my father brings the food to the table, my boy digs in with both hands. Will he, too, I wonder, remember his grandma’s hair smelling of smoked chiles?

Get the recipe for Sherry Tres Leches Gelatina Quentin Bacon

I want my son to know my Oaxaca—the Oaxaca that embraces the future while honoring tradition, especially the tradition of guelaguetza, of putting other people’s needs before your own. I want him to know that until you understand where you came from, you cannot figure out where to go next. I want his love for this sacred place to run as deep as mine.

Look who we found in Oaxaca! Rosario Mendoza, who graced Saveur’s debut cover, is still cooking with her sister’s at Restaurante Tlamanalli, in the town of Teotitlán del Valle. The place had only been open a few years when we first covered it. A quarter century later, it’s an institution. Denny Culbert

The post Return to Oaxaca appeared first on Saveur.

Oaxacan Black Mole Sauce and Enmoladas

Bricia Lopez — Fri, 01 May 2020 18:48:07 +0000

Photography by Quentin Bacon

This rich and fragrant sauce is labor intensive, but it batches up easily and freezes well. Stock up! Quentin Bacon

Oaxacan Black Mole Sauce (Mole Negro)

The secret to this mole’s pitch-black hue and complex flavor: the deeply toasted and fried ingredients. You don’t want to burn them completely, but you should come close. The process is time-consuming, so think twice before scaling down; extra mole keeps well in the freezer.

Featured in: Return to Oaxaca

Equipment

Yield: makes 14 cups

Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

1 cup vegetable oil
4 ancho chiles (3½ oz.), seeded
6 chilhuacle negro chiles (3½ oz.) (or substitute cascabel), seeded
3 pasilla chiles (13/4 oz.), seeded
²⁄₃ cup white sesame seeds
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more as needed
¹⁄₄ cup dried Mexican oregano
1 tsp. dried thyme
¹⁄₄ tsp. whole allspice berries
6 whole black peppercorns
3 whole cloves
One 3-in. cinnamon stick
1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (1¼ cups)
6 medium garlic cloves, peeled
³⁄₄ cup whole almonds
¹⁄₄ cup María Mexican cookies, or substitute animal crackers
6 oz. ripe plantains, peeled and coarsely chopped (1 cup)
1 medium apple, cored and cut in 1-in. cubes (1 cup)
2 ³⁄₄ oz. fresh pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut in 1-in. cubes (1/3 cup)
³⁄₄ cup raisins
2 ¹⁄₃ cups coarsely chopped Roma tomatoes
2 dried avocado leaves
¹⁄₂ cup sugar, plus more as needed
7 oz. Oaxacan chocolate, finely chopped (1 cup)
4 ¹⁄₂ cups chicken stock

Instructions

To a large skillet over medium heat, add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the ancho, chilhuacle negro, and pasilla chiles and fry, turning frequently, until they are toasted and crispy, 5–7 minutes. Turn off the heat and transfer the chiles to a wire rack to cool completely. Transfer the oil to a heatproof measuring cup and set aside.
In a medium pot, bring 8 cups water to a boil. Add the chiles, turn off the heat, cover, and set aside until the chiles are hydrated and soft, about 30 minutes.
To a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, add the sesame seeds and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring frequently, until toasted, about 2 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a medium bowl and set aside. To the skillet, add the oregano, thyme, allspice, peppercorns, cloves, and cinnamon stick, and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a mortar and pestle, pulverize until finely ground, and set aside. To the skillet, add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until lightly charred all over, about 10 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the sesame seeds and set aside.
To the skillet, over medium heat, add ½ cup of the reserved oil. When hot, fry the following ingredients individually, until each is deeply toasted and aromatic: almonds (about 5 minutes), cookies (2–3 minutes), plantains (4–6 minutes), apple (3–5 minutes), pineapple (5–7 minutes), and raisins (2–3 minutes). Use a slotted spoon to transfer them all to a large, heatproof bowl as they are finished. Set aside.
To a saucepan over medium heat, add the tomatoes and ½ cup water. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until the tomatoes have softened, 10–12 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Use a slotted spoon to transfer the chiles to a blender, then add 1½ cups of their soaking liquid. Blend until very smooth. Place a fine mesh strainer over a large bowl and pass the chile mixture through it, pressing on the mixture with the back of a small ladle or a silicone spatula to achieve a fine purée. Discard any solids that remain.
Transfer the strainer to a second medium bowl. To the same blender, add the sesame seeds, onion, garlic, ground spice mixture, almonds, cookies, plantains, apples, pineapple, and raisins. Add 1 cup cold water, then blend until very smooth. Pass this mixture through the strainer as well, discarding any solids that remain.
Transfer the strainer to a third medium bowl. To the same blender, add the tomatoes with their juices and blend until very smooth. Pass the tomato purée through the strainer as well, discarding any solids.
To a large pot over medium heat, add the remaining ½ cup oil. When the oil is hot, add the chile paste and cook without disturbing until bubbly, about 5 minutes. Stir in the seed and spice mixture, then continue cooking 5 minutes more. Stir in the tomato purée, bring to a simmer, then add the avocado leaves, sugar, chocolate, and remaining 1 tablespoon salt. Continue cooking at a simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chocolate has completely melted, 8–10 minutes. Stir in the chicken stock, bring the mole back up to a boil, then season with additional salt or sugar as needed. Use immediately, or transfer the pot to an ice bath to cool quickly, transfer to airtight containers, and refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months.

Yield: serves 4

Time: 15 minutes

Twelve 6-inch tortillas
5 cups mole negro
½ cup vegetable oil

Instructions

Set a heatproof platter by the stove. In a large comal or skillet over medium heat, toast twelve 6-inch tortillas until pliable, about a minute on each side. In a medium skillet over low heat, bring 5 cups mole negro to a simmer. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat ½ cup vegetable oil. When the oil is hot, use tongs to dip each tortilla in the oil until it begins to crisp along the edges, then immediately and briefly dip the tortilla in the mole to coat. Fold the tortilla in half twice to form a triangle, then transfer to the platter. Continue with the remaining tortillas, drizzle the enmoladas with some of the remaining mole, then top with crumbled queso fresco, thinly sliced white onion, and cilantro. Serve hot.

The post Oaxacan Black Mole Sauce and Enmoladas appeared first on Saveur.

The Best Miso Soup is Only 4 Ingredients Away

Nancy Singleton Hachisu — Fri, 17 Jan 2020 15:17:36 +0000

Four basic components make up the perfect bowl of miso soup: dashi, seasonal ingredients, miso, and a garnish (yakumi). Pre-cook seasonal ingredients to honor their individual properties and cut them into bite-size pieces that can be easily eaten with chopsticks. Miso is stirred in at the end, off the heat, so as not to destroy its aroma and natural probiotic properties, while yakumi are sprinkled over the surface of the soup just before serving. Christopher Testani; Food Styling: Eugune Iho

American food magazines were a lifeline during my early years in Japan. In the 1990s, English-language books weren’t available where I lived, in the outer Saitama prefecture, so when Issue 27 of Saveur arrived in my mailbox during the summer of 1998, I eagerly flipped through the pages. About a third of the way in, the words “Magical Miso” jumped off the page. The photos in the piece looked familiar, and the captions revealed that the story’s author, Hiroko Shimbo-Beitchman, had visited my local miso-maker, Yamaki Jozo, to report her piece.

Jozo is the Japanese word for “brewing,” and the term is typically used to refer to shoyu-brewing companies. In addition to shoyu, Yamaki Jozo produces both organic and nonorganic miso using exclusively Japanese-grown beans, rice, barley, and salt. The Kitani family, who owns the company, encourages their farmers to adopt 100 percent organic methods as they work toward ramping up international distribution.

Twenty-one years after Shimbo-Beitchman wrote about the brand for Saveur, Yamaki Jozo miso is even more exceptional than it was then. Products like miso and shoyu rely on 100-plus-year-old cedar barrels and expertise in culturing the koji that drives their fermentation process. This longevity of craft is worth seeking out for making the best and most authentic bowl of miso soup you have ever tasted. —Nancy Singleton Hachisu, author of Food Artisans of Japan

The post The Best Miso Soup is Only 4 Ingredients Away appeared first on Saveur.

10 Things We Learned from the Season’s Best Books

Chris Cohen — Wed, 15 Jan 2020 16:32:44 +0000

TK. Jenny Huang

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1. There’s more than one way to make a roux

It may seem that fat, flour, and some patient stirring are all that go into this building block of Louisiana cooking. But Justin Devillier, chef-owner of Magazine Street’s La Petit Grocery, gives no fewer than three methods in The New Orleans Kitchen. Devillier cooks clarified butter and flour for 10 to 12 minutes to create a blond roux for soups and chowders. His brown roux—the ideal étouffée base—relies on peanut oil instead of butter, and a cooking time of 15 to 20 minutes. He leaves that mixture on the heat about 10 minutes longer to yield the dark roux gumbo requires. “No one else in the world uses dark roux,” Devillier says. “Mastering its technique is the mark of a true Louisiana cook.”

2. Playing with your food can be an art form

Clockwise from top left: Florence Knoll Rolls; Flan Flavin; Jackson Pollock Pot Pie; Frida Kale-o Salad. Esther Choi (LE Corbuffet)

A few years back, Esther Choi, who holds a Ph.D. in architecture from Princeton and writes for brainy publications like Artforum, began hosting a series of dinner parties themed around revered artists and designers. She shares the punny results in Le Corbuffet, “conceptual art in the form of a cookbook,” a compendium of recipes so absurd, they’re profound.

3. Kung Pao chicken is not an American Chinese-takeout invention…

…though it’s more accurately Romanized as “Gong Bao.” As Fuchsia Dunlop explains in The Food of Sichuan (a refresh of 2003’s Land of Plenty), the dish was named for 19th-century Sichuan governor Ding Baozhen—an association toxic enough to require rebranding during the Cultural Revolution. Whatever you call it, Dunlop’s recipe on page 182 of the book is a killer just-add-chicken weeknight move once you have a few regional staples on hand.

4. Where hush puppies come from

Courtesy of Clarkson Potter

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Toni Tipton-Martin studied hundreds of cookbooks by African-American authors to write 2015’s The Jemima Code, which pushed back against the stereotype of the untrained black cook. For her follow-up, Jubilee, Tipton-Martin has turned all that research into recipes, and her knowledge leaps off the page (read our recent interview with Tipton-Martin here.) Before telling readers how to make Nigerian fritters called akara, for example, she cites a group of 1970s-era authors who explored the connections between West African and African-American cuisine—and their suggestion that the deep-fried black-eyed-pea balls gave rise to cornmeal-based hush puppies.

5. These are the elements of a superlative Japanese pantry

Clockwise from top left: Aguni-jima Salt; Mitoku Mikawa Mirin; Iio Jozo Rice Vinegar; Yamaki Jozo Organic Soy Sauce; Ohsawa Yamaki Organic Brown Rice Miso. Brian Klutch

Among the foremost English-language experts on Japanese cuisine—and a Saveur contributor—Nancy Singleton Hachisu has established deep, long-standing relationships with chefs, growers, and craftspeople throughout her adopted country. In Food Artisans of Japan, she profiles her culinary heroes and shares their exactingly authentic recipes. It won’t take much reading for you to realize your mass-market soy sauce will no longer cut it. Good thing, then, that Hachisu’s picks for miso, mirin, and more are now available stateside.

Read More: How To Stock a Japanese Pantry

6. Four ingredients add up to a fancy cocktail snack

Brian Klutch

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The San Francisco bakery Tartine notoriously published a 38-page sourdough recipe in one cookbook. But while Tartine, a much-expanded reissue of the 2006 classic, has some tricky bits, there are also easier moves, like these maple-glazed pecans. Simply mix the top three ingredients above, coat the pecans, add a pinch of salt, and bake at 400° for 4 to 6 minutes.

7. How to butterfly a fish

Bob Palmer

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In his authoritative Whole Fish Cookbook, Sydney chef Josh Niland, who opened Australia’s first sustainable fish market in 2018, lets these pictures do the talking.

8. It’s time to get to know Lebanese vino

Courtesy OctopusBooks

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Each edition of The World Atlas of Wine, by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, includes new maps—they’re a leading indicator of which areas might become the next big thing. Added to the 8th edition are maps of the trendy, high-elevation Italian region of Alto Piemonte; Colorado’s frigid riesling country; and the entire country of Lebanon. The Middle Eastern nation is best known for the culty, long-aged, Bordeaux-inspired reds from Chateau Musar, but there’s more to explore, like white wines made using the obscure grapes obiedeh and merweh, and Ixsir, an impressive, eco-friendly winery in the Batroun district.

9. Rich people can afford to eat less

Courtesy Black Balloon Publishing

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For Eat Joy, Natalie Eve Garrett assembled a murderer’s row of 31 writers—including Claire Messud, Anthony Doerr, and Chimamanda Ngozi Adiche—who contributed short memoirs that explore the meaning of comfort food. Alexander Chee, author of 2018’s How to Write an Autobiographical Novel, ruminated on a competitive cleanse with his brother—five days of eating only what most folks would consider “discomfort” food:

You should do that cleanse, my brother says. We’re sitting in a raw foods store, in the alcove they provide for people to eat their extraordinarily priced delicious raw vegan snacks. It’s hard for me not to see it all as vegetarianism for rich people, because, well, I am not a rich person, but my brother is now. I feel something like a class obligation lingering for me to pick up on, as I turn the mysterious packages over and read the ingredients: Irish sea moss, Himalayan sea salt, organic figs.

The world, shaken out or down, for a smoothie.

10. For this cake, tahini puts Pam to shame

Jenny Huang

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To get a clean release for tricky toppings like sesame seeds, Great British Baking Show alumna Benjamina Ebuehi suggests greasing the pan with tahini when making her almost-savory golden turmeric cake. You’ll find the recipe on page 58 of Ebuehi’s The New Way to Cake or here on Saveur.

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