Ian Burke Archives | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/authors/ian-burke/ Eat the world. Tue, 26 Oct 2021 15:15:25 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.1 https://www.saveur.com/uploads/2021/06/22/cropped-Saveur_FAV_CRM-1.png?auto=webp&width=32&height=32 Ian Burke Archives | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/authors/ian-burke/ 32 32 A Toaster Worthy of Your Precious Counter Space https://www.saveur.com/best-toasters/ Fri, 20 Sep 2019 16:13:00 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/best-toasters/
Best Toasters Saveur
Photo Credit: Ryan Benyi Photography/Getty Images.

It’s not the most glamorous appliance, but perfectly toasted bread and bagels are a revelation.

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Best Toasters Saveur
Photo Credit: Ryan Benyi Photography/Getty Images.

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Ah, toast: simple, delicious, a blank canvas for snacks and meals any time of day, whether you just need some buttered toast to go with your morning meal, a crunchy vessel for peanut butter for that afternoon snack, or any other combination of endless possibilities. Okay, call me a toast optimist—I’ve been called worse—but, look, I’m just passionate about toast. Don’t believe me? Just take a look at my four-slice toaster guide! 

If you’re here, I’m guessing you’re in the market for a new toaster, and only the very best will do, right? Well, I picked seven toasters from top brands and made A Lot of toast with them so I could report back to you, dear reader and fellow toast enthusiast, on which ones are the very best. 

How did I test them, you ask? I started by making a single batch of toast on each toaster’s medium setting. If you look at a shades of toast chart online, I was looking for toast that you’d see squarely in the middle—golden brown, with a little bit of chew in the middle. Once that crisp, golden goodness popped, I gave every slice a thorough inspection, looking at the level of browning, whether the coloring was even, and whether the bread was toasted all the way to every edge, side to side, and top to bottom. 

I performed a second round of tests once each toaster was cool. This round consisted of making three batches of toast consecutively, without allowing the toaster to cool in between. Good toasters should have sensors that detect temperature and, if the toaster is already hot, decrease the amount of time it takes to achieve the same level of browning. I also checked the sides of each toaster after the final batch to see if it got too hot to touch. The best-performing toasters stayed either completely cool, or only got a bit warm after multiple batches of toast. 

After a week of testing and several loaves of bread, here are the top-performing toasters:

Features to Keep in Mind

Long-Slot Toasters: Long-slot toasters can be great because they give you the option to toast two slices of regular grocery store bread, or longer slices of bread you might get at a bakery, offering more versatility. 

Plastic vs. Metal Toasters: This mostly boils down to aesthetics. Plastic toasters have a tendency to look cheap or not as well made as their metal cousins, but their casings tend to stay cool. That said, a well-made all-metal toaster should be insulated to keep the casings from overheating, even if you make consecutive batches of toast. 

Features and Settings: We love a toaster that can take on different tasks! Not all baked goods toast equally, so bonus points went to toasters that had settings for different types of food, like frozen waffles, toaster pastries, bagels, etc., especially if they toasted those things well. 

Our Top Picks

Best Overall: Zwilling Enfinigy 2-Slice Toaster

To borrow a catchphrase, this toaster sparked joy for me. As I mentioned, I made quite a lot of toast, and this toaster was the most accurate (as in, it turned the right level of golden brown for each respective setting), browned the most evenly, and had as close to complete coverage (even toasting from edge to edge) as possible. The design is simple and elegant without a ton of bells and whistles for a clean, modern look. There are three buttons to toggle settings, including a frozen setting, a bagel setting, and an option to reheat your bread without adding more color. Despite the all-metal casing, this toaster only got a little bit warm to the touch on the sides, even after multiple batches of toast, but not hot. The dial on the front of the toaster lets you select a browning level between 1 and 7, but also serves as the “cancel” button if you push it in. Between the price, performance, and quality of construction, this toaster was miles above the competition.

Best Value: Dash Clear View Toaster

This toaster performed almost as well as the Best Overall pick, but it costs about $60 less at the time of publication and has a really cool viewing window so you can watch your toast brown. This is also the only long-slot toaster I tested, so if you tend to buy odd-shaped or -sized bread from the bakery, this may be the better option for you. The slot is also extra wide to help accommodate thick-cut slices of bread, bagels, waffles, and other bread products. Like the Zwilling toaster, it has three buttons for toggling defrost, bagel, and reheat settings, and a dial for selecting the browning level that also functions as the “cancel” button. My only real criticism of this toaster is that it didn’t brown as evenly as the Zwilling. Apart from that, it’s a pretty good buy for the price.

Best Upgrade: Revolution InstaGLO R270

I admit to having been a bit skeptical when I first heard about this brand and their “smart” toaster with a massive touch screen and a ton of options. It seemed, honestly, sort of frivolous and gimmicky. But then I tested the thing and was overcome with a deep shame—who was I to pass judgment on this toaster and its seemingly endless options and settings? I’m happy to declare that this is actually a great toaster. 

First of all, it really does have a TON of settings, all of which are selectable by tapping images on the touch screen, which you can swipe through like Tinder for bread products. The older model, which I also tested, let you toggle between regular bread, toaster pastries, bagels, waffles, and English muffins. This model, however, gives all of those options, and more, including cinnamon raisin bread, multigrain bread, sourdough, unfrosted toaster pastries, and more, for a total of 34 bread types. The R270 also lets you select whether your bread is gluten-free. Heck, you can even buy a panini press accessory, and the toaster, of course, offers that as an on-screen option, too. 

Once you select your bread type, you can modify the settings further by selecting “fresh,” “frozen,” or “reheat,” and you can select a darkness level between 1 and 7 (the on-screen example gets darker or lighter, depending on which setting you choose). When you’re ready to begin your toasting session, simply hit “start” and the toaster does the rest. The bread is automatically lowered into the toaster, and is lifted back up when it’s finished with a friendly little chime to let you know your toast (or bagel or waffle, etc.) is ready. Despite its stainless steel casing, the sides stayed relatively cool, even after three consecutive batches of toast. Like the best overall pick, the crumb tray is on the front of the toaster instead of the back. This toaster also periodically (roughly once a week) reminds you to empty the crumb tray with an onscreen prompt. 

My only real gripe with this toaster is with the plain toast option—this was the only option that didn’t get quite as dark as the on-screen example, so I found I had to use a higher setting to get the level of golden brown I wanted. Incidentally, it is actually important to select the right bread type for what you intend to toast. I wanted to see how the settings differed, so I toasted a plain piece of white bread on the English muffin setting, darkness level three, and it got totally burnt! Revolution, I apologize for my hasty initial judgment—this is a great toaster.

We Also Tested

Breville A Bit More 2-Slice Toaster

This is honestly a perfectly good toaster. Its price, at the time of publication, is between the Best Overall and Best Value at about $70. It browned about as evenly as the Dash, but not quite as well as the Zwilling. I like how it’s configured, too, with the settings buttons on the wide side of the toaster and the lever on the short side—it lets you keep more depth on your countertop. The stainless steel construction is solid and only got a bit warm during toasting. The shade selector is a sliding lever with lights that also act as a sort of timer—as the bread toasts, the lights go out, one by one, until the toast is ready. Although the shade selector was among the most accurate, this toaster allows you to add “a bit more” browning with an extra button, and the lever has a “lift and look” function that lets you check how brown your toast is without interrupting the toasting cycle. Personally, I didn’t see the need for either of these functions, but your mileage may vary. 

Dualit 2-Slice Toaster

This is a really cool-looking toaster if you’re into aesthetics, but I generally found it lacking in the categories that really count for performance. It browned all the way to three of four edges on both slices, but one slot browned the toast considerably more than the other. There are two dials used to toggle settings. The upper dial lets you select between one slice, two slices, or the bagel setting. The lower dial essentially acts as a timer, with numeric options between 1 and 3, with a dot indicating the “optimal browning setting” as per the instruction manual. Rather than an automatic pop, you use an ejector lever to raise the toast yourself after the timer goes off. This is actually kind of a cool feature because it keeps the toast warm until you’re able to get to it. Unfortunately, because the dial is simply a timer, consecutive batches of toast on the same setting got darker and darker with each batch. The sides of the toaster also got very hot after the initial toast test, and way too hot to touch during consecutive batches. Overall, this toaster is just okay—I expected better performance and safety features, given how expensive it is.

Cuisinart Custom Select 2-Slice Toaster

I liked the design of this toaster a lot, and it had some cool features, like a dial to select different bread types: bread, bagel, waffle, pastry, and English muffin. There’s a button to set the toaster for a single slice, a defrost button, and a cancel button. A sliding lever lets you select a shade level between 1 and 7. Unfortunately, the toast it produced was very unevenly browned, and one slot made darker toast than the other.

Wolf Gourmet 2-Slice Toaster

This toaster felt the most well-constructed and solid of all the models I tested, and it stayed surprisingly cool after multiple batches of toast. It also toasted really well, and mostly evenly, but not edge to edge. Given the price and brand reputation, I expected flawless toast, but it just didn’t deliver.

FAQs

Q: How long do toasters last on average?

In my experience, I’ve needed a new toaster every five years or so. There are lots of factors that can affect a toaster’s longevity. The main issue is that the heating elements are made of very fine filaments that corrode over time. Toasting frozen or particularly moist items can speed corrosion up considerably because of the steam produced during the toasting process. 

Q: How do I clean my toaster?

Most manufacturers recommend wiping the outer surfaces with a damp cloth and then drying completely. Be sure to empty your crumb trays regularly, and never, ever insert any metal objects into the toaster. When in doubt, always consult your instruction manual or the manufacturer’s website—most keep downloadable digital versions of their product manuals on their sites.

Q: What shouldn’t I toast with a toaster?

Anything that’ll drip or ooze into the toaster as it cooks! I remember someone in college setting off the dorm fire alarms because he tried to make a grilled cheese in his toaster. Don’t be that guy.

Our Take

You don’t have to break the bank to get a perfectly good toaster that browns evenly, consistently, and without overheating like the Zwilling, Dash, and Breville models. But if you’ve got money to burn and love having the latest tech in your kitchen, you could do a lot worse than the Revolution R280.

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The Perfect Mini Fridge for Any Space https://www.saveur.com/story/lifestyle/best-mini-fridges/ Tue, 03 Dec 2019 19:45:00 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/best-mini-fridges/
Bottles of milk in a refrigerator
A mini fridge can eliminate chilled storage needs during holidays, parties, or a trip to a load up on groceries. Unsplash/Debby Hudson

These compact refrigerators are just the thing for small kitchens, offices, or anywhere you want to keep beverages and snacks handy

The post The Perfect Mini Fridge for Any Space appeared first on Saveur.

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Bottles of milk in a refrigerator
A mini fridge can eliminate chilled storage needs during holidays, parties, or a trip to a load up on groceries. Unsplash/Debby Hudson

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

Usually, mini fridges go hand-in-hand with starter apartments and college dorms. However, that doesn’t mean you should write them off as appliances of the past just yet. Here are our top favorites.

Danby Designer

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This sleek, eco-friendly mini fridge takes up all of 4.4 cubic feet. With a handy freezer section and enough built-in storage for eight cans, it’s just the thing for your kitchen, office, game room, you name it.

This mini fridge features a reversible swing door, a small freezer compartment, and adjustable legs. At just 1.6 cubic feet, the unit is perfect for tucking under a desk or a counter.

COSTWAY

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This 2.2-cubic-foot mini fridge has two doors and a roomy separate freezer section. It also contains different storage racks for cans and bottles and even has a crisper drawer for fruits and vegetables.


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A Kitchen Scale for Every Home Cook https://www.saveur.com/best-kitchen-scales/ Sat, 19 Oct 2019 00:00:00 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/best-kitchen-scales/
Antique kitchen scale
A kitchen scale plays a critical role in many cooking projects, especially baking. Unsplash/Calum MacAulay

From more accurate measurements to easier meal planning, a kitchen scale is never a bad investment

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Antique kitchen scale
A kitchen scale plays a critical role in many cooking projects, especially baking. Unsplash/Calum MacAulay

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

If you’re tired of eyeballing baking ingredients on poorly marked measuring cups or having to use inaccurate methods of portion control, it might be time to invest in a kitchen scale.

Whether you’re looking to more accurately measure your ingredients or planning on finally getting around to some healthier-eating resolutions, one of these kitchen scales is sure to suit your needs.

AmazonBasics

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This model from AmazonBasics boasts an easy-to-use LCD display, a large weighing platform that makes using bigger bowls or containers a breeze, and an automatic shut-off feature to help save battery life.

Taylor Precision Products

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For the home cooks out there looking for an old-school yet functional addition to the kitchen, look no further. This stainless steel scale features a large analog display and a removable weighing bowl that makes cleaning easy. It’s perfect for the home, but would also look great at a farmers market stall or mobile kitchen. The best part: No batteries required!

GreaterGoods

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This is a perfect scale for measuring portions and gauging the nutritional value of ingredients. With nutrition facts for 2,000 different foods pre-programmed into the device’s memory — along with up to 99 more customizable entries — this scale is perfect for any home chef who’s looking to keep track of their macros. It also features an automatic shut-off feature and a backlit display.

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These Soda Makers Make It Easy to Give Up Store-Bought Seltzer https://www.saveur.com/story/lifestyle/best-soda-makers/ Wed, 27 Nov 2019 20:16:55 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/best-soda-makers/
Glasses of sparkling water with lemon
Making your own carbonated beverages at home is easier than you think. Unsplash/Chris Ralston

Take your sparkling water game to the next level with one of these at-home soda machines

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Glasses of sparkling water with lemon
Making your own carbonated beverages at home is easier than you think. Unsplash/Chris Ralston

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

If you’re picking up 12-packs of seltzer or sparkling water on the regular, you should seriously consider investing in a soda maker instead. Not only are these kitchen carbonators convenient and easy to use, but the sky’s the limit when it comes to flavor. Why choose between the same old options at the supermarket when you can craft any sparkling beverage you fancy at home? Pick up one of these soda machines and create the best fizzy drink for your palate today.

Amazon

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This soda maker comes from the brand that started the at-home soda machine craze, SodaStream. It features three different carbonation settings, and each CO2 cylinder carbonates up to 60 liters of water. It also comes with a BPA-free carbonating bottle and is available in two different colors.

Amazon

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Not only is this compact, stainless-steel soda maker easy to use, but its elegant, minimal design also makes it perfect for every kitchen. Simply fill the bottle with cold water, screw in the bottle, throw the lever, and enjoy. It also features non-toxic PET plastics and comes in a variety of different colors.

Amazon

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Ideal for traveling or taking on picnics, this portable maker features a sleek hand-held design that makes storage simple. The on-the-go machine uses disposable CO2 cartridges that carbonate up to 32 bottles of liquid a pop.

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Electric Kettles for Every Occasion https://www.saveur.com/best-electric-kettles/ Fri, 04 Oct 2019 15:09:00 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/best-electric-kettles/

These kettles are the perfect water-boiling tool for any setting

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An electric kettle is an easy and affordable way to save time in the kitchen and is a compact and useful tool for almost any water boiling scenario.

The old adage “a watched pot never boils” is all well and good, but there’s another saying that you might not be familiar with: An unwatched pot might boil over. Or, it might not boil to the desired temperature for your coffee, tea, or other hot beverage. Enter, the electric kettle.

If you don’t already have an electric kettle, it’s time to invest. And don’t think of it as cheating on your trusty stovetop kettle, just thing of it as “redefining your relationship” with your whistling, convection-heated friend.

AmazonBasics

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This cordless, stainless steel electric kettle boasts a solid one-liter capacity and a water window with marked measurements so you know exactly how much liquid you’re working with. It also has a removable filter that makes cleaning a breeze and includes an automatic shut-off feature with boil-dry protection — perfect for leaving the kettle on while you go about your business.

Secura

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This 1.7-liter capacity electric kettle features an all-stainless steel interior with a double-walled construction that helps keep water hotter for longer. It also has an automatic shut-off feature to put your mind at ease and make sure the kettle never boils dry. Plus, it comes in several fun colors to match your kitchen aesthetic.

Cuisinart

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Perfect for the home chef, this stainless steel electric kettle touts a 1.6-liter capacity and six preset heat settings for the ultimate temperature control. It also features a blue LED display and a backlit water window, along with a removable filter, an automatic shut-off feature, and an energy-saving sleep mode, which turns the kettle off after five minutes of inactivity.

Gourmia

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This portable electric kettle is perfect for the avid traveler. Made from food-safe silicone, this collapsible kettle features boil-dry protection, dual voltage, a half-liter capacity, and is perfect for morning tea or coffee in any hotel room.

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Unlocking Your Inner Cheesemonger With Adam Moskowitz https://www.saveur.com/how-to-eat-cheese-like-a-pro/ Mon, 11 Feb 2019 15:37:09 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/how-to-eat-cheese-like-a-pro/
This selection of cheeses has it all: You've got the whole spectrum of textures, milk types, and flavors represented. Blu di Bufala (top left) is a decadent stinky cheese from an ancient recipe. A really top notch, salty hard cheese like Solo di Bruna Parmigiano Reggiano, aged for over 24 months to achieve the perfect nutty, caramelized crunch, is almost better for munching off a cheese plate than it is for grating. Vermont Butter and Cheese Company's Cremont (left), a combination of goat and cow's milk and cream, has a delicate bloomy rind and soft, luscious interior. Miel Asturiana Chestnut Honey is a dark, thick, luxurious accompaniment to any cheese, but don't be surprised to catch your guests enjoying it alone, by the spoonful. Clockwise from top:
Blu di Bufala, _$27.99/lb at Murrayscheese.com_
Solo Di Brunda Parmigiano-Reggiano, _$22.99/lb at Murrayscheese.com_
Miel Asturiana Chestnut Honey, _$22.30 at Tienda.com_
Vermont Butter & Cheese Co. Cremont, _$10.99 each at Murrayscheese.com_. Nicole Franzen

Everything you need to know to eat cheese like the pros

The post Unlocking Your Inner Cheesemonger With Adam Moskowitz appeared first on Saveur.

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This selection of cheeses has it all: You've got the whole spectrum of textures, milk types, and flavors represented. Blu di Bufala (top left) is a decadent stinky cheese from an ancient recipe. A really top notch, salty hard cheese like Solo di Bruna Parmigiano Reggiano, aged for over 24 months to achieve the perfect nutty, caramelized crunch, is almost better for munching off a cheese plate than it is for grating. Vermont Butter and Cheese Company's Cremont (left), a combination of goat and cow's milk and cream, has a delicate bloomy rind and soft, luscious interior. Miel Asturiana Chestnut Honey is a dark, thick, luxurious accompaniment to any cheese, but don't be surprised to catch your guests enjoying it alone, by the spoonful. Clockwise from top:
Blu di Bufala, _$27.99/lb at Murrayscheese.com_
Solo Di Brunda Parmigiano-Reggiano, _$22.99/lb at Murrayscheese.com_
Miel Asturiana Chestnut Honey, _$22.30 at Tienda.com_
Vermont Butter & Cheese Co. Cremont, _$10.99 each at Murrayscheese.com_. Nicole Franzen

The first thing that Adam Moskowitz gives you when you walk into his Long Island City cheese warehouse isn’t a block of Pecorino Romano or a taste of the best Gruyére you can find this side of the Alps—it’s a hug.

“You ready to talk cheese, or what?”

It’s hard not to like the guy behind the Cheesemonger Invitational, Larkin Cold Storage, and Columbia Cheese. The latter two are his Long Island City, Queens-based importing businesses; Moskowitz sources and ships some of Europe’s finest and rarest cheeses to shops, cheesemongers, and restaurants all over the U.S.

The Cheesemonger Invitational, however, might be what Moskowitz is best known for. The international tournament of “turophiles” (cheese scholars) pits 46 cheesemongers against each other through nine rounds of competition that test the technical skills, cheese knowledge, and salesmanship of each competitor. According to the event website, you haven’t lived until “you’ve cheered at the top of your lungs (with a mouth full of brie) for someone to cut a perfect quarter pound of cheddar on a stage in front of hundreds of like minded weirdos.”

Did I mention that Moskowitz, who moonlights as a rapper and DJ, conducts his duties as CMI Master of Ceremonies in a full-body cow costume? Again, it’s hard not to like the guy.

On a cold day, the inside of Moskowitz’s cavernous refrigerated warehouse offers little reprieve. The importer’s short, dark hair is tucked into a knit beanie that’s pulled down just above his big, intense eyes. He speaks quickly, which can make some of what he says a little hard to follow, but if you pay attention, you’ll realize you’re speaking to a cheese genius.

Easy-going and inviting, in spite of absurdly vast industry knowledge (he’s a third-generation cheese importer), Moskowitz doesn’t talk down to the uninitiated. “There’s a lot of food fear out there,” the 44-year-old explains. “People get nervous talking about cheese in front of me because they think I’m going to judge them or something. I want to put an end to that fear.” In order to do that, he encourages everyone to fall in love with cheese.

Everyone’s quest for cheese mastery is different, but the journey starts with passion and, most importantly, by figuring out what makes cheese special for you. And since most folks can’t spend a day with one of the East Coast’s foremost cheese experts, we asked Moskowitz to break down a few key steps to help you access your own inner cheesemonger.

Queserìa Cultivo in Madrid

Okay, so you’ve developed a mild addiction to cheese —well done, you’re halfway there.

The next step, Moskowitz says, is finding and, ideally, befriending a local cheesemonger. “It’s similar to the relationship you might have with your butcher or your wine or beer merchant,” he explains. “Go to retail locations that have cut-to-order cheese shops and start building relationships with the people behind the counter. A great cheesemonger will calibrate to you and figure out where you are in your turophile status, like a somm.”

The people who understand milk composition, the chemistry behind different kinds of cheeses, and how the milk-producing animals were treated during production—all factors that affect the taste, texture, aroma, and appearance of a cheese—are often delighted to share that knowledge with a fellow cheese-lover.

blue cheese

Don’t be afraid of any cheese.

Learn to love blue cheese by starting with creamy, buttery varieties, like Colston Bassett Stilton

According to Moskowitz, fear is the biggest obstacle for people who are just embarking on their cheese journey.

Moskowitz explains that “there’s no turophile that says ‘Oh I hate blue cheese.’ Turophiles say ‘I don’t really like blue cheese, so I’m going to educate myself on blue cheese and fall in love with it. I’m going to teach myself to love this cheese’.”

honeycomb
Sweet condiments like honey temper the salty bite of potent blue cheese Matt Taylor-Gross

If you do come across a cheese that you don’t immediately love, he recommends starting with more mellow versions from the same category. If you’re unsure of blue cheese, start with a creamy, mild blue, such as gorgonzola dolce. Maybe taste it with a little honey or fruit preserves on it—a trick Moskowitz says makes the medicine go down a little easier, as sugar balances the salty bite.

Another factor that might espouse some cheese fear is the smell. To put it bluntly, a lot of great cheese stinks. This might be off-putting at first, but if you push through the initial olfactory shock, you’ll learn to love the unique aromas that accompany some of the world’s most compelling cheeses.

Take notes and talk about cheese.

Coming up with your own vocabulary of descriptors is essential for educating your palate. Once you start writing down what you like, Moskowitz explains, it becomes easy to find cheeses you’ll love in the same family. However, he warns against falling into descriptor traps—in other words, letting people tell you what something should taste like, rather than deciding for yourself.

“Everyone describes cheese as ‘creamy,'” he says. “But you have to go beyond that. When someone asks what a cheese tastes like, that’s easy—taste is simple. It’s sweet, sour, salty, bitter, umami. You want to know what’s hard? Understanding aroma.” Smell is the only sense that solely triggers your limbic system, Moskowitz suggests. “That’s where your memories are. That’s why you can smell something and have a vivid memory of a scene from 20 years ago.”

The trick to understanding aroma? Be relaxed, Moskowitz says. “Maybe even close your eyes. Really try to connect with your memories. If something smells tropical but you can’t really place it, I challenge people to go to the memory,” he explains. “You’re on vacation, you’re on a beach, you’re at the bar. What drink did you just order? Was it a pina colada? Because that’s pineapple. Boom. That’s how you tap into aroma.”

This selection of cheeses has it all: You’ve got the whole spectrum of textures, milk types, and flavors represented. Blu di Bufala (top left) is a decadent stinky cheese from an ancient recipe. A really top notch, salty hard cheese like Solo di Bruna Parmigiano Reggiano, aged for over 24 months to achieve the perfect nutty, caramelized crunch, is almost better for munching off a cheese plate than it is for grating. Vermont Butter and Cheese Company’s Cremont (left), a combination of goat and cow’s milk and cream, has a delicate bloomy rind and soft, luscious interior. Miel Asturiana Chestnut Honey is a dark, thick, luxurious accompaniment to any cheese, but don’t be surprised to catch your guests enjoying it alone, by the spoonful. Clockwise from top:
Blu di Bufala, _$27.99/lb at Murrayscheese.com_
Solo Di Brunda Parmigiano-Reggiano, _$22.99/lb at Murrayscheese.com_
Miel Asturiana Chestnut Honey, _$22.30 at Tienda.com_
Vermont Butter & Cheese Co. Cremont, _$10.99 each at Murrayscheese.com_

Home cheese care is possibly the most neglected aspect of cheese appreciation—something Moskowitz wants to fix. “Don’t buy big chunks of cheese,” Moskowitz says. He recommends buying a smaller portions, whenever possible cut to order, and eating it within 24 hours, and warns about the problems that arise when cheese is wrapped in plastic.

The issue with plastic wrap is that cheese absorbs unpleasant flavors, both from the film itself and from unwanted bacteria that forms between cheese and nonporous wrapping.

The best way to get rid of that plasticky flavor, Moskowitz says, is to “face” any cheese that has been stored in plastic—in other words, use a long, sharp knife to scrape a thin layer from from the surface, discarding the parts which may have absorbed any off-flavors.

“Tupperware or paper is a better option for storing cheese,” he says; when you leave the cheese in a tupperware by itself, “you’re actually putting the cheese in its own microclimate and letting it breathe.”

Pairing your cheese.

Moskowitz doesn’t mince words about proper cheese and beverage pairings. When you eat cheese, essentially, you’re eating fat,” Moskowitz explains, “so you want something that scratches the fat off of your tongue and your palate,”

The best way to achieve that? With bubbles.

If you’re looking to let the flavor of the cheese shine on its own, try tasting it with seltzer. Otherwise, Moskowitz notes, sparkling wine is the move. “Champagne all the way,” he says, “Or if you get a sparkling riesling—holy cow.”

Cheesemonger Invitational
Moskowitz leading a beer-pairing sesh with participants of the Cheesemonger Invitational Columbia Cheese Co.

Beer—particularly stouts and other malty, toasty styles—is also a great beverage to pair with cheese, Moskowitz tells us, since the grain in the beer acts as a palate cleanser, taking the place of, say, crackers or bread. “Some might argue that beer is a better pairing than wine, since with wine you need bread to balance everything out. Beer is perfect since the bread is included.”

Don’t be a Snob

If you’re getting the impression that only the rarest, most exquisite cheeses are worth your time, don’t panic—lots of people share that misconception. The idea that mass-produced cheeses, or “industrial cheeses,” aren’t enjoyable or valuable is a bit elitist. Just because a cheese is produced in large quantities doesn’t mean it’s inherently inferior to a cheese made by hand on a small farm. The same is true for artisan cheeses. Don’t be duped into thinking that artisanal, hand-molded cheeses are only for the select few, or that you have to be a seasoned turophile to enjoy them. Cheese, Moskowitz reminds us, is for everyone to enjoy.

“It’s not all about how fancy or rare your cheese is,” he says. “When I’m having a burger, the perfect cheese to go on there is an American single—I mean, it’s designed for that specific purpose. And people’s love of cheese starts with their earliest memories. For some that might be Velveeta. I don’t begrudge industrial cheese, I just don’t work in it.”

But that isn’t to say that Moskowitz doesn’t love hard-to-find, artisan cheeses. In fact, his favorite cheeses come from remote mountains in Europe, where he’s cultivated personal relationships with farmers and producers alike, and exports their cheeses to his Long Island City warehouse. “When you’re eating expensive cheese,” he explains, “it’s not a bougie thing. It’s supporting a massive group of agrarian communities working the land. And that’s what’s important.” Supporting the local farmers is what makes the cheese expensive. At the end of the day, it’s all about the cheese and the people who produce it, he explains.

And as you walk out of the unassuming facade of his warehouse, he pauses, looks directly into your eyes, and says quietly, “It’s the cheese. The cheese is bigger than all of us.”

The post Unlocking Your Inner Cheesemonger With Adam Moskowitz appeared first on Saveur.

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Flaxseed Oil 101: Everything You Need to Know About Cooking with Flaxseed Oil https://www.saveur.com/how-to-cook-with-flaxseed-oil/ Tue, 20 Nov 2018 20:46:59 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/how-to-cook-with-flaxseed-oil/
Flaxseed Caramels
Flaxseed Caramels. Charity Burggraaf

This oil has plenty of health benefits, but it’s not ideal for all cooking

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Flaxseed Caramels
Flaxseed Caramels. Charity Burggraaf

Flaxseed oil may still be one of the least common oils used in the kitchen, but cooking with the stuff definitely has its share of benefits. Sometimes referred to as linseed oil, flaxseed oil is extracted from the dried seeds of the flax plant, often by cold-pressing then when ripe. The label “virgin” on bottles of flaxseed oil implies that the oil was extracted by mechanical means only, without the use of any chemical solvents. Refined flaxseed oil implies the opposite.

Flaxseed oil is full of nutrients such as potassium and Omega-6 and Omega-3 fatty acids, the latter of which has been reported to improve heart health, reduce inflammation, and lower the risk of certain types of cancer. Other proven benefits of flaxseed oil include lowering cholesterol, boosting digestive health, and reducing acne and the severity of breakouts.

Typically, the oil is golden-yellow in color and tends to have a lower smoke point than other cooking fats, roughly 225°F, which doesn’t make it the best bet for high-heat cooking or roasting. Not only can it lose some of its crisp, nutty flavor when cooked at high heats, but it can burn and become bitter and less appealing. Consuming flaxseed oil raw (i.e. before it’s been exposed to heat) is the best bet. It can be used for low-heat cooking, and as a rich addition to salad dressings or sauces. Fun fact: It is also the main component in a relatively new process of seasoning cast iron pans and skillets, since it belongs to a group of “drying” oils that form protective barriers on hard surfaces.

While you maybe shouldn’t use flaxseed oil for your next stir-fry, it is also great for making sweet dessert toppings, like the syrup in these Flaxseed Caramels. It adds a pleasant nutty flavor to this classic East German potato dish, Pellkartoffeln Mit Leinöl (Boiled Potatoes with Quark and Flaxseed Oil) when mixed with chives and oil.

Get Your Flaxseed Oil

Here are some brands and styles we like: International Collection’s virgin oil Crudigno Organic Flax Seed Oil 250ml
Barlean’s, Organic Lignan Flax Oil

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Canola Oil 101: Here’s What You Need to Know https://www.saveur.com/canola-oil-101/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:30:51 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/canola-oil-101/
La Tourangelle Organic Canola Oil 16.9 Fl. Oz, All-Natural, Artisanal, Great for Cooking and Baking or as Base for Marinade
Canola oil is produced by extracting the oil from the seeds of the canola plant. Canola oil has one of the lowest levels of saturated fat of any commonly-used cooking oil. It also has one of the highest levels of Omega-3 fatty acids, second only to flaxseed oil. Canola oil has a mild flavor and high smoke point, giving it a wide range of uses in the kitchen. Every so often the misconception that canola oil is toxic and contains high levels of erucic acid (not a good thing) circulates the internet—a myth we're here to dispel. High levels of erucic acid are observed in rapeseed oil, and although canola and rapeseed are cousins, canola is bred to have extremely low levels of the stuff. In other words, your canola-based salad dressing isn't going to kill you. La Tourangelle

How to cook with this versatile oil

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La Tourangelle Organic Canola Oil 16.9 Fl. Oz, All-Natural, Artisanal, Great for Cooking and Baking or as Base for Marinade
Canola oil is produced by extracting the oil from the seeds of the canola plant. Canola oil has one of the lowest levels of saturated fat of any commonly-used cooking oil. It also has one of the highest levels of Omega-3 fatty acids, second only to flaxseed oil. Canola oil has a mild flavor and high smoke point, giving it a wide range of uses in the kitchen. Every so often the misconception that canola oil is toxic and contains high levels of erucic acid (not a good thing) circulates the internet—a myth we're here to dispel. High levels of erucic acid are observed in rapeseed oil, and although canola and rapeseed are cousins, canola is bred to have extremely low levels of the stuff. In other words, your canola-based salad dressing isn't going to kill you. La Tourangelle

Canola oil, one of the more versatile cooking oils, has a wide range of uses in and out of the kitchen, from adding texture and balance to a slew of delicious dishes to slathering it on before bed as a moisturizer. However, there’s more to Canola oil than meets the eye. For instance, did you know that canola oil is Canadian? In fact, the word “canola” is a portmanteau of “Canada” and “ola,” an acronym for “oil low acid.” And, it’s pretty healthy—despite what internet oil trolls (yes, those exist) might have you believe. But before you start cooking, here’s a rundown of some canola oil basics.

First of all, let’s put a popular canola oil myth to rest. Every so often the misconception that canola oil is toxic and contains high levels of erucic acid (not a good thing) circulates the internet. While high levels of erucic acid are observed in rapeseed oil, Canola oil is produced by extracting the oil from the seeds of the canola plant, a variety of the rapeseed plant that’s been bred to have extremely low levels of the stuff. In other words, your canola-based salad dressing or vinaigrette isn’t going to kill you, cause heart disease, or do any of the other nasty stuff they say erucic acid might do to people. In fact, canola oil has one of the lowest levels of saturated fat of any commonly-used cooking oil, which makes it one of the best oils to use if you’re interested in lowering your cholesterol. It also has one of the highest concentrations of Omega-3 fatty acids among cooking oils, second only to flaxseed oil.

Canola oil usually comes in a rich yellow color and has a relatively bland flavor. It has a high smoke point—around 405°F—which makes it a versatile tool in the kitchen. It’s not only great for dressings and dips like this DIY garlic aioli, but it shines in more complex dishes as well, such as morels in black bean sauce and this parsnip salad in a wheat beer vinaigrette. It’s also often used in baking, since its neutral flavor doesn’t drown out other ingredients, and in stir- and deep-frying.

Ready to start frying, baking, and marinating with canola oil, but don’t know where to pick up a bottle? If you’re looking for something that you might not find at the cornerstore, La Tourangelle makes a nice organic canola oil, but these other oils are solid as well.

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When Baking with Olive Oil is Even Better Than Butter https://www.saveur.com/carapelli-olive-oil-baking/ Fri, 07 Dec 2018 17:54:37 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/carapelli-olive-oil-baking/
Orange-Scented Olive Oil Cake
Serve this moist, dense, candied orange-studded cake with vanilla gelato, sea salt, and a drizzle of fruity olive oil. Get the recipe for Orange-Scented Olive Oil Cake ». Matt Taylor-Gross

It's healthy, and it'll taste just as great

The post When Baking with Olive Oil is Even Better Than Butter appeared first on Saveur.

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Orange-Scented Olive Oil Cake
Serve this moist, dense, candied orange-studded cake with vanilla gelato, sea salt, and a drizzle of fruity olive oil. Get the recipe for Orange-Scented Olive Oil Cake ». Matt Taylor-Gross

Everyone loves enjoying olive oil in salads and drizzled over dishes, but did you know that your favorite kitchen oil is also great for baking? In fact, baking with a quality olive oil can boost your seasonal baked goods from sweet to savory and often tastes even better than butter. (Yes, we’re serious.) But beyond taste, high quality extra virgin olive oil has a number of additional baking benefits that you should definitely be taking advantage of.

Here’s a quick rundown:
Extra virgin olive oil is a great baking alternative for butter and other cooking oils due to its wide range of nutritional benefits. It’s full of vitamins and healthy fats, and is often found in an array of health and skincare products. It’s also packed with polyphenols, a special type of antioxidant that has been linked to the numerous benefits of the “Mediterranean diet,” which include reducing the risk of heart disease, high blood pressure, cholesterol, and cancer. When substituting extra virgin olive oil for other cooking oils, SAVEUR Test Kitchen Director Kat Craddock recommends swapping them out in equal parts. However, if you’re substituting olive oil for butter, she suggests using 3/4 the amount of oil as butter—i.e. for 1/2 cup of butter, use six tablespoons of oil.

In addition to being a healthy change of pace, baking with this oil keeps cakes, quickbreads, and brownies tender and moist for longer than butter-based pastries, which dry out after just a day or two.

Like fine wines, quality extra virgin olive oils (such as Carapelli) have their own unique flavor and mouthfeel, largely due to the terroir of the growing regions, the quality of the olives, and the different processing styles used to make the stuff. These characteristics complement various flavors and ingredients differently, so it’s important to be conscious of the type of olive oil you’re baking with. Craddock says that grassy, peppery olive oils work well in savory baked goods, and also pair well with dark chocolate or potently spiced sweets. More mild extra virgin olive oils, she says, (such as oils made from the Spanish Arbequina cultivar) have buttery and fruity notes, which makes the elegant and luscious when paired with delicately flavored ingredients such as almonds, fruit, and rose or orange blossom water.

Orange-Scented Olive Oil Cake

Orange-Scented Olive Oil Cake

Serve this moist, dense, candied orange-studded cake with vanilla gelato, sea salt, and a drizzle of fruity olive oil. Get the recipe for Orange-Scented Olive Oil Cake »

Eager to throw some oil in the oven but don’t know where to start? Don’t sweat—we’ve got plenty of delicious confectionery creations that call for quality olive oils. Try out this zesty Portokalopita, a nutty Gluten-Free Grapefruit and Orange Olive Oil Cake, and our Orange-Scented Olive Oil Cake and let us know what you think.

The post When Baking with Olive Oil is Even Better Than Butter appeared first on Saveur.

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Everything You Need to Know About Cooking with Coconut Oil https://www.saveur.com/how-to-cook-with-coconut-oil/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:47 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/how-to-cook-with-coconut-oil/
Coconut Crab Curry
Evan Sung. Evan Sung

There's a lot of hype around coconut oil, but here's why we cook with it

The post Everything You Need to Know About Cooking with Coconut Oil appeared first on Saveur.

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Coconut Crab Curry
Evan Sung. Evan Sung

Coconut oil: A trendy oil beloved by nutritionists, and often touted as a “superfood”—that is, until recently. Coconut oil has been at the center of a whirlwind of culinary controversy, after a Harvard professor called it “pure poison,” and the American Heart Association released an advisory stating that “lowering intake of saturated fat… will lower the incidence of cardiovascular disease.” Which, on the first read, sounds a bit scary. And coconut oil does contain lots of saturated fats, known to increase the risk of heart disease. However, we think sticking to the “everything in moderation” rule is the move here. And despite the controversy, coconut oil is still found in a slew of health items, ranging from moisturizers to haircare products.

Luckily for you, though, we’re not in the health business, and have a ton of delicious coconut oil recipes for you to try at home. But before you start cooking, check out this quick rundown of some coconut oil basics.

Virgin coconut oil is extracted from coconut meat, coconut milk, or coconut residue. The “virgin” label implies that no solvents were used in the extraction process. This is usually accomplished by cold-pressing (using a hydraulic press to extract oil from fruits and veggies) the coconut meat or milk. Refined coconut oil is made with additional extraction steps, such as bleaching and deodorizing, that result in an odorless, neutral-flavored oil. Coconut oil is solid at room temperature, but will melt at around 76°F, so don’t freak out if you notice a layer of clear liquid on top of your solid coconut oil—this is totally normal. In its solid form, coconut oil is a creamy, white color, but clarifies when exposed to high heat. It also has roughly the same amount of calories per tablespoon as olive oil. You can use it as a substitute for butter without doing any math: the ratio of coconut oil to butter is 1:1 (just make sure the coconut oil is in roughly the same form as the butter you’d use, to ensure that your food comes out at a similar consistency).

See our: Complete Guide to Cooking Oils

Virgin coconut oil has a smoke point of around 350°F, while refined oil has a higher smoke point of 400°F. Because of its high fat concentration, coconut oil stands up to high heat fairly well, which means it’s a good choice for sautéing and stir-frying, but for the best results, we recommend keeping your burners at a medium heat cooking with coconut oil. (It’s also not the best option for deep-frying.)

Coconut oil has a wide range of applications in the kitchen, from baking delicious treats like these Coconut “Macaroonies,” to adding a layer of sweetness to your Mozambican Coconut Crab Curry or Brazilian Fish Stew. Coconut oil also works well as a substitute for butter in most baked goods, as an addition to smoothies and desserts, and in various sauces, dressings, and marinades. Viva Naturals makes a great organic virgin coconut oil, but these other oils are also high up on our list.

La Tourangelle

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Spectrum

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Olive Oil 101: Everything You Need to Know About Cooking With Olive Oil https://www.saveur.com/how-to-cook-with-olive-oil/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:33:28 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/how-to-cook-with-olive-oil/
Spanish Olives
Kat Craddock

From how it's made to how to cook with it

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Spanish Olives
Kat Craddock

Mmm, olive oil. While you probably have a bottle in your kitchen right now—stored in a cool, dark place, hopefully—you might not be an expert in all of the behind-the-scenes action that goes into producing and cooking with the stuff. (On the off chance you are an olive oil aficionado, skip ahead to making some delicious dishes of your own.) For those who aren’t well-versed in the various uses, health benefits, and processes that go into producing olive oil, we compiled a quick rundown of the basics.

See our: Complete Guide to Cooking Oils

How Olive Oil Is Made

Olive oil is made from extracting the oil from whole olives, and comes in several different varieties. If an olive oil is “virgin,” that means the oil was extracted from the olives by mechanical means only—in other words, no chemicals or solvents were used in the extraction process. Olive oils that are exposed to chemicals during extraction are referred to as “refined olive oils,” and typically have a slightly higher smoke point than virgin and extra virgin oils.

bowl of garlicky pasta with cheese and olive oil
Classically Roman, this garlicky pasta dish—as interpreted by Nick Anderer of Maialino and Marta in New York City—is brightened with pepperoncino and a handful of vibrant parsley. It gets a hit of salt from grated Grana Padano and roundness from extra-virgin olive oil. Get the recipe for Nick Anderer’s Spaghetti with Garlic and Olive Oil » Michelle Heimerman

Olive Oil Color

The color of different olive oils can range from a deep green to a more yellow-gold, depending on the olives used, the method of oil extraction, and the ripeness of the olives during the time of extraction. The taste of the oil depends largely on the quality, the varietals used during production, and the area where the olives are grown—similar to the terroir of different wine regions.

Olive oil, thankfully, isn’t all that bad for you. It contains lots of healthy fats and antioxidants, and is even known to reduce the risk of heart disease. In fact, because of its nutritional properties, olive oil is frequently used as a component in various skincare, haircare, and beauty products.

Olive Oil Smoke Points

Olive oil has a medium-high smoke point of around 375°F, which makes it great for sauteing and limited high-heat cooking. However, as with many oils that have a strong taste, olive oil tends to lose flavor when exposed to high heat. If you want to get the most flavor possible out of your olive oil, stick to drizzling it over dishes or adding it to your meal later in the cooking process.

Cooking with Olive Oil

And while there’s no shame in enjoying plain olive oil on a hunk of freshly baked bread—it’s one of our favorite ways to consume the stuff—olive oil can provide an extra layer of flavor and balance to a variety of dishes. It’s most commonly used in sauces and dips like Black Olive Tapenade, as a component in various dressings and marinades, or simply drizzled over a dish as a finishing oil. It’s also delicious when used as a cooking oil, like in Jose Enrique’s Ramp Escabeche, and can add a beautiful roundness to a dish like Nick Anderer’s Spaghetti With Garlic and Olive Oil.

Olive this oil talk making you hungry? The first step is buying the right stuff. We like Lucini’s Premium Select Extra Vrigin Olive Oil, but these Greek and Spanish oils are just as delicious.

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