Ellen Gray Archives | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/authors/ellen-gray/ Eat the world. Sat, 20 Apr 2024 03:37:20 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.1 https://www.saveur.com/uploads/2021/06/22/cropped-Saveur_FAV_CRM-1.png?auto=webp&width=32&height=32 Ellen Gray Archives | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/authors/ellen-gray/ 32 32 Our Favorite Passover Dessert Recipes Offer a Chance to Pause, Reflect—and Try Out New Ingredients https://www.saveur.com/passover-desserts-recipe/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:42 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/passover-desserts-recipe/
Pavlova Recipe
Photo: David Malosh • Food Styling: Simon Andrews • Prop Styling: Summer Moore. Photo: David Malosh • Food Styling: Simon Andrews • Prop Styling: Summer Moore

Think pineapple pavlova and rhubarb fritters in addition to the classic matzo brittle and flourless cakes.

The post Our Favorite Passover Dessert Recipes Offer a Chance to Pause, Reflect—and Try Out New Ingredients appeared first on Saveur.

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Pavlova Recipe
Photo: David Malosh • Food Styling: Simon Andrews • Prop Styling: Summer Moore. Photo: David Malosh • Food Styling: Simon Andrews • Prop Styling: Summer Moore

Passover is a celebration that recalls the Jews’ enslavement in Egypt and subsequent exodus into freedom. The Passover Seder—an elaborate meal dominated by symbols and rituals—also poses challenges, particularly to us bakers who are asked to forego so many ingredients taken for granted throughout the rest of the year. In addition to flour and yeast, nothing can be used during Passover that contains barley, wheat, rye, oats, or spelt. These grains are considered chametz, leavened foods that are forbidden during the holiday. 

This interruption of day-to-day baking gives us pause, a time for reflection and gratitude. Today, many products and alternative flours are available that meet kosher-for-Passover guidelines, providing dessert options well beyond those embraced by our grandmothers. (Do note, however, that these products cannot always be used interchangeably; for best results, always match recipes with flours for which they are intended.) 

Food memories and cherished family recipes play an integral role in any Passover celebration, linking multiple generations to those who came before. The homemade Passover desserts of my childhood made a lengthy Seder bearable. My grandmothers followed Ashkenazic practices mirroring their ancestors’ ties to Central and Eastern Europe. They relied on a number of trusted cookbooks and recipe pamphlets created in tandem with various advertising campaigns of the times. The combination of old and new recipes kept traditions alive while also Americanizing our grandmothers’ kitchens. 

Maxwell House Coffee published a Haggadah in 1932, making it free with a purchase of their coffee. Other companies quickly capitalized on the Jewish holiday, publishing recipe pamphlets highlighting their products. Among them Borden’s Farm Products, whose slim Passover Cook Book from 1940 is one to which I still refer. Based on the faded spatters and smudges, “Borcas Eingemacht” and “Chremslach” have clearly been the best-loved recipes in the book.  

A favorite of my maternal grandmother Dorothy, borcas eingemacht (Russian-style beet preserves) is traditional in eastern Ashkenazic households. A ruby-colored sweet enjoyed by the spoonful alongside a “gleyzele tay,” (Yiddush for “glass of tea”), the jam-like confection is made from sliced or grated beets, honey, and vinegar. Commonly part of Passover preparations, when the tradition was brought to America, lemon juice replaced vinegar and different families added their own spins on the slow-cooked preserves. Eingemachts can even be cooked down beyond the jam stage, resulting in more of a candy texture. Over the years, commercially prepared kosher-for-Passover versions became available, and for many, the homemade tradition faded. 

My father’s mother, Minnie, never fretted over the health ramifications of using a dozen eggs in a single sponge cake, or of feeding several pints of heavy cream to the Sunbeam mixer as she whipped up the filling for her Passover schaum torte. Minnie also had in her repertoire a recipe for sweet fritters known as chremslach. Made from crumbled matzo, eggs, dried fruit, and almonds, chremslach are common among many cultures and recipes date as far back as the Roman Empire. It’s the Ashkenazi Jews, however, who are credited with incorporating this treat into their Passover tradition. One of the earliest recorded recipes for Pesach chremslach can be found in Esther Levy’s Jewish Cookery Book on Principles of Economy Adapted for Jewish Housekeepers (1871), considered the first Jewish cookbook published in America. 

For me, adaptation is an important part of the Passover tradition too; I like to swap out Mama Minnie’s dried fruit for seasonal fresh rhubarb. The crispy fritter can serve as dessert at the conclusion of the Seder or for breakfast the next morning, with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt and fresh berries—or a side of Dorothy’s earthy, crimson eingemacht.

The Passover holiday spans eight days, offering plenty of time for experimentation in the kitchen. When preparing your menu, be mindful of the varying degrees of observance amongst your Seder guests. The orthodox union provides a list of permissible Passover products here. Fresh fruit, chewy macaroons, and a tray piled high with matzo brittle should satisfy even the most devout celebrants’ cravings. For more tempting options, check out these recipes from our archives.

Rhubarb Chremslach with Beet Preserves

Rhubarb Passover Chremsel with Beet Preserves
Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Rebecca Jurkevich • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Rebecca Jurkevich; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

A fresh take on tradition: matzo fritters, spring rhubarb, and sweet beets create a memorable dessert or brunch. Get the recipe >

Eli Zabar’s Chocolate Caramel Matzo Ice Cream

Zabar's Ice Cream
Kate Berry PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATE BERRY

As the owner of several iconic markets in New York City, Eli Zabar is always on the lookout for other smart uses for his products. “My motto has always been “waste not, want not,≈and I firmly believe that just about everything I make can become even more delicious in its “second” life,” he says. Enter this knockout Passover dessert recipe that marries homemade vanilla ice cream with store-bought matzo. Get the recipe >

Zabaglione Pavlova with Pineapple and Black Pepper

Pavlova Recipe
Photo: David Malosh • Food Styling: Simon Andrews • Prop Styling: Summer Moore Photo: David Malosh • Food Styling: Simon Andrews • Prop Styling: Summer Moore

Zabaglione and tropical fruit gild the lily of this ethereal meringue cake. For observant guests, feel free to swap out the Marsala for a kosher wine. Get the recipe >

Poached Pears

Poached Pears
Matt Taylor-Gross Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

Fernet Branca, a bitter, aromatic spirit, is made from more than 40 herbs and spices, among them myrrh, rhubarb, chamomile, cardamom, saffron, and parsley. Technically not kosher for Passover, the liquor is grape-, not grain-based, making it appropriate for those less strict with kosher laws. Get the recipe >

The Best Flourless Chocolate Cake

The Best Flourless Chocolate Cake
Matt Taylor-Gross MATT TAYLOR-GROSS

If you like, feel free to substitute a Passover brandy for the coffee in this rich, flourless chocolate dessert from the legendary Zuni Café. Get the recipe >

Roasted Strawberry-Rhubarb Tart with Mascarpone Cream

Roasted Strawberry-Rhubarb Tart with Mascarpone Cream
Fatima Khawaja Photography by Fatima Khawaja

The true harbingers of spring, strawberries and rhubarb shine in a crunchy tart shell with a rich layer of mascarpone cream. Get the recipe >

Flourless Pistachio Cakes with Rosewater

Flourless Pistachio Cakes with Rosewater
Thomas Payne Photography by Thomas Payne

Forsaking the flour, these petite cakes are enhanced with the addition of pistachios and rosewater, then gussied up with rose petals. Stored in an airtight container, these elegant bites hint at spring while sweetening Passover’s eight-day holiday. Get the recipe >

Coconut “Macaroonies”

Coconut Macaroonies
Matt Taylor-Gross Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

Coconut flour and white chocolate update the traditional coconut macaroon. Get the recipe >

Chocolate Sorbet

Chocolate Sorbet
Matt Taylor-Gross Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

Vegan and dairy-free, this rich sorbet has an intensity of flavor to satisfy the most serious of chocolate hankerings. Get the recipe >

Dark Chocolate Matzo Brittle

Dark Chocolate Matzo Brittle
Helen Rosner

While we adore the combination of dark chocolate and pistachios in this crisp brittle, you can tailor the recipe by swapping in white or milk chocolate, or finishing with different add-ins like sliced almonds or dried cranberries. Get the recipe >

Flourless Chocolate Soufflé (Soufflé au Chocolat)

Flourless Chocolate Soufflé
Helen Rosner Photography by Helen Rosner

A decadent-yet-airy dessert for any night of the Passover week, this small-batch recipe is ideal for a more intimate gathering. Get the recipe >

Double Chocolate Macaroons

Double Chocolate Macaroons
Zoe Schaeffer Zoe Schaeffer

In these luscious cookies from cookbook author Leah Koenig, the traditional shredded coconut macaroon gets hit with a double dose of chocolate: cocoa powder and semisweet chocolate chips. Get the recipe >

The post Our Favorite Passover Dessert Recipes Offer a Chance to Pause, Reflect—and Try Out New Ingredients appeared first on Saveur.

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Rhubarb Chremslach with Beet Preserves https://www.saveur.com/recipes/chremsel-recipe/ Fri, 15 Apr 2022 21:29:10 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=131146
Rhubarb Passover Chremsel with Beet Preserves
Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Rebecca Jurkevich • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio. Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Rebecca Jurkevich • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio

For this year’s Passover Seder, serve these sweet-tart matzo fritters with a side of eingemacht.

The post Rhubarb Chremslach with Beet Preserves appeared first on Saveur.

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Rhubarb Passover Chremsel with Beet Preserves
Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Rebecca Jurkevich • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio. Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Rebecca Jurkevich • Prop Styling: Sophie Strangio

A Yiddish word for preserves, eingemacht can refer to a variety of jams made with fruits or root vegetables. This beet version comes from baker Ellen Gray’s grandmother, Dorothy, who served the treat as a part of her Passover Seder. Chremslach (sweet matzo fritters) were a fixture on Gray’s other grandmother Minnie’s table. Here, Gray swaps out the traditional dried fruit filling for seasonal rhubarb. Paired together, the two dishes make for a fresh take on an old-school Ashkenazic Passover dessert. 

Featured in “Our Favorite Passover Dessert Recipes Offer a Chance to Pause, Reflect—and Try Out New Ingredients.”

Yield: 6
Time: 3 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the beet preserves:

  • 1½ lb. medium beets, rinsed and tough ends removed
  • 1⅓ cups sugar
  • ⅓ cup honey
  • ½ tsp. ground ginger
  • 1 medium lemon, washed, thinly sliced, and seeded
  • 1 medium orange, peeled and segmented
  • ½ cup finely chopped almonds

For the fritters:

  • 3 sheets plain matzo
  • ⅔ cup sugar, divided
  • ½ tsp. ground cardamom, divided
  • ½ tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
  • 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest
  • Pinch kosher salt
  • Pinch freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 large eggs, separated
  • ¼ cup matzo meal
  • 2 Tbsp. finely chopped almonds
  • 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
  • 1 medium rhubarb stalk, finely chopped (¾ cup)
  • Vegetable oil, for frying

Instructions

  1. Make the beet preserves: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Place a small plate in the freezer. Wrap each beet individually in foil, then transfer to a large baking sheet. Bake until the beets are fork tender, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. When the beets are cool enough to handle, use paper towels to rub off and discard the skins. Slice the peeled beets into fat matchsticks.
  2. In a medium pot over medium heat, stir together the beets, sugar, honey, ginger, and ¼ cup of cold water. Simmer, stirring occasionally with a silicone spatula, until the liquid has reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Turn the heat to low, then stir in the lemon slices and orange segments. Continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the mixture is concentrated and jammy, and the spatula leaves a line at the bottom of the pot without coming right back together, about 30 minutes more.
  3. To test for doneness, retrieve the plate from the freezer, add a spoonful of jam, and return the plate to the freezer for 2 minutes. Remove the plate and gently move the jam with your fingertip. If the jam forms a skin and wrinkles, it is ready and the pot is ready to be removed from the heat. If not, return the plate to the freezer, and continue cooking for an additional 5 minutes, then test again.
  4. Once ready, remove the jam from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, stir in the almonds, then transfer the jam to sterilized jars, cover tightly, and refrigerate until ready to serve (or store for up to 2 weeks).
  5. Make the fritters: Working with one sheet at a time, run the matzo under lukewarm water just until softened, about 2 minutes. Drain in a colander, gently squeeze out the excess water, and set aside.
  6. In a small bowl, whisk together ⅓ cup of sugar, ¼ teaspoon of cardamom, the cinnamon, lemon and orange zests, salt, and black pepper. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually whisk in the sugar mixture. Stir in the matzo meal, almonds, lemon juice, rhubarb, and reserved softened matzo.
  7. In a medium bowl, use a hand mixer to whip the egg whites until stiff peaks form, taking care not to overbeat. Using a silicone spatula, gently fold the whipped whites into the matzo mixture just until incorporated. Cover and refrigerate the batter for 30 minutes.
  8. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the remaining sugar and cardamom. Set aside.
  9. Line a large baking sheet with paper towels and set it by the stove. Into a large pot fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour the oil to a depth of 2 inches and turn the heat to medium-high. Retrieve the batter from the fridge. When the temperature reads 375°F, working in batches, carefully drop rounded tablespoons of the batter into the oil (avoid crowding) and fry, turning once, until crispy and golden brown all over, 45–60 seconds per side. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fritters to the prepared baking sheet to drain. Repeat with the remaining batter.
  10. Gently toss the fritters in the reserved cardamom sugar and serve warm, with the beet preserves on the side. (Leftover fritters can be reheated on a parchment-lined baking sheet in a 325°F oven just before serving.)

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Minnie’s Rosh Hashana Honey-Chocolate Swirl Cake https://www.saveur.com/chocolate-honey-cake/ Wed, 21 Sep 2022 01:59:18 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=145699
Honey Swirl Cake
Photography by Belle Morizio

The humble High Holiday dessert gets a supersized, deliciously gooey makeover.

The post Minnie’s Rosh Hashana Honey-Chocolate Swirl Cake appeared first on Saveur.

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Honey Swirl Cake
Photography by Belle Morizio

On the red carpet of Rosh Hashana desserts, honey cake has a far smaller fan base than some of its glittering apple counterparts. Yet honey cakes are iconic, tethered to the High Holidays as a symbol of hope for a sweet New Year and a nod to Israel, “a land flowing with milk and honey.” (Book of Exodus 3:8) The Jewish New Year is a time of introspection and celebration, and an opportunity to reflect on the previous year and consider the one forthcoming. It’s why Jewish bakers also gravitate towards circular baked goods for this season, symbolizing life’s continuous cycle.

Honey-laced cakes have long been embraced by cultures around the world. As far back as the 12th century, Italian bakers were known for a dense and honey-sweetened semolina cake; in the 13th and 14th centuries, heavily spiced and honeyed gingerbread, studded with nuts and dried and candied fruit, was prevalent throughout Europe. Eventually, the Ashkenazi Jews in Central Europe embraced their own version, which they enjoyed alongside strong coffee or tea. 

Honey cake—also known as “lekach” a Yiddush word derived from the German lecken, meaning “lick” and perhaps the Aramaic lĕkhakh, meaning to “mix in thoroughly”—is often maligned. Much like fruitcake, an overpowering spice profile and stodgy texture are at the heart of the dish’s bad reputation. Even honey cake devotees admit that the dessert is more often about family tradition than flavor, tethering us to generations that once circled the holiday table. In revisiting the tradition, I turned to a cake culled from Bayswater, Queens circa 1950, when recipe swapping was popular within the Temple Sisterhood and the American Jewish volunteer women’s organization, Hadassah. My grandmother, Minnie, was a dedicated member of both. 

Minnie’s Rosh Hashana cake is a happy marriage between golden honey cake and rich chocolate cake. It is, as my grandmother would say, “a good keeper,” in part due to the high concentration of honey, which works as a preservative. Her recipe also includes a generous splash of Coca-Cola which, having been deemed kosher in 1936, has found its way into many subsequent Jewish recipes. Because we were a family of Dr. Brown’s cream soda fans, I’ve swapped that in (it’s also kosher) for the original cola. And though Minnie’s version was unglazed, I’ve also added a slick of dark chocolate-honey icing, which I find elevates this humble cake to superstar status.

Yield: 16
Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the honey cake layer:

  • 1¾ cups all-purpose flour
  • 1½ tsp. baking powder
  • 1½ tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 1½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1 tsp. ground cardamom
  • 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest
  • ½ tsp. baking soda
  • ¼ tsp. ground allspice
  • ¼ tsp. ground ginger
  • ¼ tsp. kosher salt
  • ½ cup clover honey
  • ½ cup dark brown sugar
  • ½ cup neutral oil, plus more for greasing
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 2 large eggs, at room temperature
  • ½ cup strongly brewed coffee or tea, at room temperature
  • ¼ cup whiskey or orange juice
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract

For the chocolate layer:

  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • ½ cup medium rye flour
  • ⅓ cup dark cocoa powder, sifted
  • 1½ tsp. baking powder
  • ½ tsp. baking soda
  • ¼ tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 cup sugar
  • ½ cup dark brown sugar
  • ½ cup neutral oil
  • 2 large eggs, room temperature
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1 cup cream soda (preferably Dr. Brown’s brand)

For the glaze:

  • 8 oz. dark chocolate, finely chopped (preferably 60%)
  • 2 Tbsp. coconut oil
  • 1 Tbsp. clover honey

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven (with one of the racks positioned in the bottom third) to 350°F. Lightly grease an angel food cake pan with neutral oil. Line the bottom of the pan with a circle of parchment paper, lightly grease the paper, then dust the pan very lightly with all-purpose flour, knocking out any excess.
  2. Make the honey cake layer: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, stir together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, orange zest, baking soda, allspice, ginger, and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together the honey, dark brown sugar, oil, sugar, eggs, coffee, whiskey, and vanilla. Turn the mixer on low and gradually pour in the wet mixture, occasionally pausing to use a silicone spatula to scrape down the bottom and sides of the bowl, until the batter is smooth. Pour evenly into the prepared cake pan and set aside.
  3. Make the chocolate cake layer: Clean and dry the stand mixer bowl and whisk and return to the mixer. To the bowl, add the flour, rye flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In the medium bowl, whisk together the sugar, brown sugar, oil, eggs, vanilla, and cream soda. Turn the mixer on low and gradually pour in the wet mixture, occasionally pausing to use a silicone spatula to scrape down the bottom and sides of the bowl, until the batter is smooth. Slowly and evenly pour the chocolate batter over the honey batter. Using an offset spatula or the back of a spoon, smooth the surface of the cake, but do not swirl the two layers together. Place the cake pan on a large baking sheet, transfer to the oven, and bake until a cake tester inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean, 60–75 minutes. Transfer the cake to a wire rack and set aside to cool in its pan for 30 minutes.
  4. Meanwhile, make the glaze: To a heatproof bowl set over a small pot of simmering water, add the chocolate, coconut oil, and honey; cook, stirring frequently, until the chocolate is nearly melted, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside, stirring occasionally, until the glaze is completely smooth. Set aside.
  5. Using an offset spatula or a thin knife, loosen the cake from the sides of the pan. Invert onto a plate to remove from the pan, discard the parchment paper circle. Set aside to cool completely before inverting the cake once again onto a large serving plate. Pour the glaze evenly over the top of the cooled cake, allowing the excess to drip down the sides. Cut into slices and serve at room temperature. Covered loosely with plastic wrap, the cake will keep well at room temperature for 4 days, or longer if refrigerated.

The post Minnie’s Rosh Hashana Honey-Chocolate Swirl Cake appeared first on Saveur.

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The Best Butter Dishes Preserve and Show Off Your Favorite Dairy Product https://www.saveur.com/shop/best-butter-dishes/ Fri, 20 May 2022 19:10:59 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=132150
Butter Dishes
Courtesy of Le Creuset.

Keep your butter tasting fresh and spreading easily for any occasion.

The post The Best Butter Dishes Preserve and Show Off Your Favorite Dairy Product appeared first on Saveur.

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Butter Dishes
Courtesy of Le Creuset.

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

“Eat butter first, and eat it last, and live till a hundred years be past.”Old Dutch proverb

Simply put, the use of butter dishes stemmed from the need to keep butter cool in the absence of refrigerators, while also keeping it protected from light, air, pesky flies, wayward fingers, and bacteria. Because absorption leads to oxidation, butter that is improperly wrapped and stored runs the risk of taking on ‘off’ flavors and potentially spoiling. 

Before butter was mass-produced in stick form, butter was handmade and shaped in rounds. Early butter dishes reflected this; a circular bowl or dish was paired with a domed cover, often featuring an ice chamber with a pierced liner that kept the butter cool. Ceramic butter crocks were also prominent, credited to French potters in the late 1800s, replacing hard-to-clean wooden containers. Today, butter is commonly stored in elongated dishes, the result of machine-made quarter-pound sticks of butter. Additionally, there is a resurgence of butter bells or butter crocks, which store spreadable butter upside down on your counter. Finding the one that best suits your needs depends on several things. Namely, how much butter you consume on a regular basis and the type of style you feel best coordinates with your kitchen and table decor. 

Whether you’re a toast or a bagel fan, or simply a baker wishing to portion butter with ease, consider a butter dish, bell, or crock (and consider buying some of the best butters on the market, too). Anyone who has grown weary of battling with cold, stubborn-to-spread butter sticks will find a true keeper amongst our top picks.

Our Top Picks

Best Overall: Le Creuset European Butter Dish 

Material: Stoneware | Amount of Butter To Store: two- 4 oz. sticks or one- half pound block | 6.75 x 5 x 3.5 inches Chip Resistant Dishwasher Safe: Yes

What We Like


  • Well-made, solid
  • Extensive color palette
  • 10-year limited warranty

Worth Noting


  • Expensive
  • Best washed by hand
  • Best purchased through manufacturer

Why we chose it: A jewel box of a butter dish, Le Creuset delivers a classically French-style vessel crafted out of premium stoneware. Comfortably (and beautifully) accommodates three West Coast sticks, two East Coast sticks, or one half pound block of butter.

This butter dish is all dressed up and ready to go, either in the fridge, on the countertop, or on your dining table. Le Creuset’s stoneware dish protects butter both in and out of the refrigerator and in such a wide color palette that it’s hard to choose a favorite.  Roomy enough to accommodate up to a half-pound of butter, a graceful handle is easy to grasp, and testers appreciated how steadily the lid sits on the wide base.  A beautiful addition to a counter or tabletop, when left out of the fridge, butter maintains a spreadable consistency and stays fresh, protecting it from unwanted odors and glaring sun. The lid is thoughtfully designed so it doesn’t bump into two sticks of butter stored side by side (or a larger European-style block). This is a luxury item well worth the investment. Treat it with care and hand-wash to extend its lifespan.

Best Value: LocknLock Easy Essentials Food Storage Airtight Containers

Single or Set: Single | Scratch-Resistant: No | Microwave-Safe: Yes | Non-Slip Base: Yes | Material: Plastic | Dimensions: 2 3/4 x 7 1/4 x 4 1/2 inches | Amount of Butter To Store: 4 oz. Stick or 8 oz. block | Handle: No

What We Like


  • Snap-down locking hinges and silicone seal
  • Easy to wash by hand or top rack of the dishwasher
  • Measurement markings are convenient for baking

Worth Noting


  • Picnic worthy
  • Casual looks may not be suitable for formal table settings

Why we chose it: Stay fresh tabs provide airtight storage in a sturdy, no-frills butter container that resists breakage and keeps butter fresh and easy to spread. 

Refrigerator-, freezer-, and microwave-safe, this casual container is useful for storing butter in the fridge or on the counter. This may look like a standard food storage receptacle, but it’s cleverly designed to be used upside down. The “lid” serves as a tray with a flat cutting surface. Easy to open and close, an airtight seal keeps butter well protected. (Also a good, airtight container for refrigerating cream cheese.) Just the ticket for a picnic setting or on the kitchen counter. For more formal occasions, transfer the butter to a serving dish.

Best Glass: Bordeaux Glass Butter Dish | Williams Sonoma

Single or Set: Single | Scratch-Resistant: yes | Microwave-Safe: No | Non-Slip Base: Ridged Base | Material: Pressed Glass | Dimensions: 6 3/4 x 4 x 3 inches | Amount of Butter To Store: 8 oz. | Handle: No

What We Like


  • Weighty
  • Classic Design
  • Well-fitting Lid

Worth Noting


  • Suitable for casual or formal table settings
  • Accommodates European style butter

Why we chose it: Good looks combined with a well-crafted glass dish that cradles both European style and American style butter with ease. 

Perfectly suited to any tabletop decor, a glass butter dish emblazoned with the word BUTTER is iconic. Ideal for keeping butter at room temperature or chilled (and easy to spot in the fridge), the well-fitting lid discourages extraneous odors from hindering freshness. Handsome enough for everyday use yet dressy enough for a more formal table setting. Testers loved the look and the weight of the dish plus appreciated that it is dishwasher safe. A great gift to give or receive.

Best Sleek Design Butter Keeper: American Mug Pottery Butter Keeper

Single or Set: Single | Scratch-Resistant: Yes | Microwave-Safe: TK | Non-Slip Base: TK | Material: Glazed Stoneware | Dimensions: 3.75 x 3.75 x 4 inches | Amount of Butter To Store: 4 oz. | Handle: Yes

What We Like


  • Handcrafted in the USA
  • Dishwasher safe
  • Durable; lid stands securely

Worth Noting


  • Change water every 2-3 days
  • Not well suited to excessively warm environments
  • Easy to clean

This butter keeper keeps its promise: creamy, spreadable butter stays soft at room temperature for several days. A clever design feature curves the lip slightly inward, preventing the butter from slipping out. Take the time to pack the butter in securely and keep this out of direct sunlight. For best results, change the water every 2-3 days.

Why we chose it: A hybrid of French design and American craftsmanship, this well-made, handcrafted butter keeper is for butter lovers who appreciate simplicity in a bright color palette. 

Best New Take: Butter Hub Butter Dish

Single or Set: Single | Scratch-Resistant: Yes Microwave-Safe: No | Non-Slip Base: Yes | Material: Plastic | Dimensions: 7.8 x 2.7 x 2.7 inches | Amount of Butter To Store: 4 oz. | Handle: No

What We Like


  • 6 color options plus clear
  • Magnet holds stainless steel spreader on the cover
  • Dishwasher safe

Worth Noting


  • Made of plastic
  • Two sizes; accommodates quarter-pound sticks or half-pound blocks
  • Clean compact design

Why we chose it: A no-nonsense new take on the traditional butter dish with clever design features that make storing and serving butter a breeze.

A winning combination of features makes this dish stand out. Soft rubber feet hold the butter dish in place when in use. Raised edges on the base help scrape the knife clean or transfer butter from one side of the knife to the other.  The cleverly designed lid has extended feet, preventing stray butter from landing on the counter or table. Testers applauded the clever magnet-in-the-lid design which keeps the enclosed butter spreader handy. The only drawback is that the dish is fairly lightweight, but the ingenuity of the design makes this a winner. 

Best Modern Version of a French Beurrier: Original Butter Bell Crock 

Single or Set: Single | Scratch-Resistant: Yes | Microwave-Safe: No | Non-Slip Base: No | Material: Ceramic | Dimensions: 4.25 x 3.78 inches | Amount of Butter To Store: 4 oz. | Handle: Yes

What We Like


  • Classic design in a variety of colors
  • Ideal for spreadable butter/easy to use/dishwasher safe
  • Comfortable knob is easy to grasp

Worth Noting


  • Make sure to purchase the Original Butter Bell Crock by L.Tremaine
  • Butter will overly soften in rooms that are excessively warm (above 70 degrees Fahrenheit)
  • Make sure to change the water every two-three days/clean and dry thoroughly in between uses

Why we chose it: Beautiful and functional, the two-piece design features an inverted bell-shaped lid and crock base. Fashioned after the original French beurrier, the classic design is tempting in many colors and decorative styles.

There’s a good reason this butter crock has been enormously popular for more than 25 years; it is fashioned after the original French “beurrier ” designed by L. Tremaine. For anyone passionate about spreadable butter, this is the kitchen gadget for you. Make sure to read the directions in order to best utilize the butter crock and take care to press the butter in when filling it to avoid air pockets. Water needs to be changed every two-three days and both pieces need to be thoroughly washed and dried between uses. This is not a fill-it-and-forget-it dish; it requires some diligence to safely maintain butter. But your morning toast, afternoon grilled cheese, or freshly baked baguette will thank you.

How We Chose These Products

Products were tested by professional bakers and pastry chefs using unsalted, American, and European style butter. Filled butter bells were left at room temperature for three days; the water was changed accordingly. Butter dishes were tested with butter left at room temperature for three days and also refrigerated; criteria included the resulting spreadability and taste of the butter, ease of handling and cleaning of the product, plus design strengths and flaws. Butter was tasted on days one, two, and three to determine freshness and quality. Additionally, staff at high-end gourmet retailers weighed in on what are popular registry picks for good reason.

Features to Keep in Mind When Shopping for Best Butter Dishes

Quality Of Material 

Butter dishes are typically fashioned out of glass, porcelain, plastic, or stoneware; personal preference and need will determine your choice. Regardless of where the dish is going to be used (kitchen, tabletop, or picnic), a well-made dish is less likely to become damaged, will protect butter from the elements, and will clean up easily. It is also important to read the manufacturer’s recommendations concerning proper use and care.

Freshness

Butter maintains freshness in a well-sealed dish with a tight-fitting lid. Keeping butter out of direct sunlight will also contribute to its freshness. As with any dairy product, it is important to be proactive and keep an eye (and a taste) on butter left out on a counter. If butter tastes the slightest bit off, it’s best to pitch it and start afresh.

Shape

Consider the type of butter you most frequently use before purchasing a butter dish. If you tend to utilize sticks of butter, a butter dish will accommodate a traditional 4 oz. stick. If you prefer European size butter, which comes in an 8 oz. block, consider a suitably wide butter dish. For room temperature butter stored in a butter crock/bell, keep in mind their capacity is generally limited to 4 oz., or a touch less.

Style 

Butter dishes and keepers range in style from classic to contemporary, decorative to sleek. Choose a style that coordinates with your kitchen and dining room; some designs will move seamlessly from refrigerator to countertop to tabletop, while others are more utilitarian, but it is important to decide what best suits your needs. 

Capacity & Easy To Clean 

Depending upon the region in which you dwell, butter is sold as either long, slender 4 oz. sticks or chubbier 4 oz. sticks, dubbed East Coast and West Coast, respectively. The two styles originated as the butter industry expanded from the East to West coast; over the years, new equipment was introduced in the newer West Coast butter factories, resulting in a separate style, according to the now-defunct UC-Davis Dairy Research and Information Center. European butter, such as Plugra, is commonly sold in 8 oz. blocks. A common cause of butter spoilage is how it is stored and how a butter keeper is maintained. Choose a butter keeper that you will clean thoroughly on a regular basis. 

Ask the Experts  

Q: Should I refrigerate butter? 

To minimize the chances of bacterial growth, the. U.S. Department of Agriculture recommends leaving butter at room temperature no more than two days. 

Beyond that length of time, the butter runs the risk of turning rancid, causing off flavors and an unpleasant, greasy texture and brownish-yellow appearance. However, most of the butter sold in this country is pasteurized and hovers somewhere around 80 percent in fat content, 16 percent in water, and four percent in milk solids. The milk solids—comprised of protein, sugar, and minerals—are what gives butter its rich flavor. Unsalted butter is fine kept at room temperature for several days, but salted butter is notably better because salt acts as a preservative and can sit on the countertop for a longer period of time. If your kitchen is exposed to direct sunlight and is typically warmer than 70 degrees Fahrenheit, take care to leave smaller quantities of butter on the counter for less time, and replenish your dish with butter kept in the refrigerator.  

Q: What butter dish keeps butter soft?

A butter keeper or butter bell will keep butter spreadable; its softness is impacted by the heat of your kitchen. Placing a small amount of cold water in the bottom of a butter crock or bell helps regulate the temperature of the butter, keeping it soft but solid. (Note that the water needs to be changed regularly.) Butter stored in a butter dish at room temperature will likewise keep butter spreadable. Both kitchen temperature and direct sunlight will impact the degree of butter’s softness in both a butter keeper and a butter dish.

Q: Does a butter dish need to be airtight?

An airtight butter dish prevents the butter from picking up any off-flavors that float around your kitchen or refrigerator. Butter stored in an airtight container is also less likely to become contaminated by elements in the environment or other foods. The longer the butter sits out, the more apt it is to degrade, pick up an unpleasant taste, and potentially spoil. An airtight butter dish will protect the quality and extend the freshness of the butter. 

Q: Can I leave salted butter out?

Because salt is a natural preservative, salted butter can sit out on the countertop for a longer period without spoiling than unsalted butter. The salt protects against bacterial growth; however, both unsalted and salted butter are perishable dairy products and should not be left out indefinitely. It is always preferable to refill a clean butter dish with fresh butter from the refrigerator and let it soften than to risk consuming tainted butter.

Q: What is the difference between a butter dish and a butter keeper?

A butter dish is an elongated dish with a tight-fitting lid, designed to protect butter from air, light, and heat, extending its shelf life and preserving freshness. A butter keeper is a container that stores softened butter at room temperature in a small pot that is immersed in water, creating an airtight seal. Storing butter at room temperature in either will enhance spreadability, but neither vessel can protect butter indefinitely.  

Our Take

Choose a butter dish or butter keeper best suited to your needs and decor preference. A good butter dish will prolong the taste and quality of your butter; if spreadable butter is key, consider using a butter bell or crock, though it requires more maintenance than a butter dish. Keeping butter in the refrigerator in a well-sealed dish or container is the most foolproof way of keeping it safe.

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The Best Yogurt Makers Prove Homemade Is Better Than Store-Bought https://www.saveur.com/shop/best-yogurt-makers/ Tue, 07 Jun 2022 23:20:47 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=132802
Best Yogurt
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Make your own creamy, tangy yogurt at home, without the additives.

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Best Yogurt
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Steeped in ancient traditions and found in nearly every culture that relies on animals for milk, yogurt is one of the world’s oldest foods. Though found in ancient civilizations throughout the world, it is believed that the word “yogurt” is Turkish in origin, (“yoğurmak,”) meaning to thicken, coagulate, or curdle. For many, the tangy dairy product is a go-to for breakfast, while others choose to incorporate yogurt into savory dishes, sauces, and more. If you think making your own yogurt sounds intimidating, think again. Requiring just milk, a yogurt starter, and a few kitchen tools, homemade yogurt is surprisingly simple to make and well worth the effort—if you find the right machine. While you can technically make a batch without a yogurt maker, it requires rigorous monitoring to ensure the bacteria is at just the right temperature to eat the sugars in milk and produce lactic acid, which will ultimately thicken the milk into yogurt. The best yogurt makers will aid with temperature and fermentation, so you don’t need to repeatedly check on it. 

Once you begin to make your own yogurt, you’ll quickly learn that it’s cost-effective, cuts down on plastic consumption, and produces the same quality you’re used to from your favorite brands (or better). Plus, once you’ve made a batch or two, you’ll be ready to experiment with your own flavors and add-ins. Once you add a yogurt maker to your countertop, you’ll find that, like with homemade ice cream, you’ll never want to go back to store-bought.

Our Top Picks

Best Overall: Euro Cuisine YMX650 Digital Automatic Yogurt Maker

Material: Brushed Metal/Glass/Plastic | Auto Option: Yes | Size: 9.5 x 5.75 in. | Weight: 4 pounds | Different Flavors: 7 | Storage Containers: glass | Container Lids: plastic

Pros


  • Individually portioned
  • Automatic shut off
  • Straightforward process

Cons


  • Transferring yogurt mix into containers requires care
  • Temperature cannot be adjusted
  • Produces a smaller batch

Why we chose it: This compact, user-friendly yogurt maker turns out seven individual servings of fresh yogurt, all of which can be independently flavored. 

If you’re looking for a set-it-and-forget-it type of yogurt maker, this is your best bet. Small enough to fit any countertop and easy to operate and clean, it’s the most user-friendly machine on our list. The automatic shut off feature is the highlight of this Euro Cuisine choice, ensuring that your yogurt won’t become too firm or sour for your liking. Though it’s not suited for those who prefer a large amount of yogurt, the individual glass jars allow for plenty of customization with add-ins like fruit, jam, or extracts. 

Best Value: Euro Cuisine YM80 Yogurt Maker 

Material: Glass and BPA-free plastic | Auto Option: no | Size: 9.5 x 9.5 x 6 in. | Weight: 4 pounds | Different Flavors: 7 | Storage Containers: Seven 6-oz. Glass jars | Container Lids: Plastic

Pros


  • Affordable
  • Individually portioned
  • Fuss-free

Cons


  • Manual shut off
  • No timer
  • No digital display

Why we chose it: Individual jars provide creamy, fresh yogurt from a budget-friendly, no-frills appliance. 

Fuss-free and affordable, using this yogurt maker is as easy as flipping a switch. With room for seven dishwasher-safe jars, you’ll have enough yogurt to last for a full week. Unlike Euro Cuisine’s automatic yogurt maker, this machine requires you to set your own timer and manually turn it off. However, this price point for an electric yogurt maker simply cannot be beat. Though it doesn’t have a digital display, there are markings on the side of the machine that will show you where your yogurt is in the fermentation process, which typically lasts between six and 10 hours.

Best For Greek Yogurt: Euro Cuisine Gy50 Greek Yogurt Maker

Material: BPA free plastic | Auto Option: n/a | Size: 10 x 10 x 5.25 in. | Weight: 1.54 pounds | Different Flavors: no | Storage Containers: no | Container Lids: no

Pros


  • No electricity needed
  • Simple to use
  • Doesn’t require temperature monitoring

Cons


  • Not dishwasher safe
  • Mesh strainer is delicate

Why we chose it: This strainer transforms classic yogurt into thick Greek-style yogurt worthy of your favorite recipes. 

A bit of a misnomer, this is actually a strainer that serves to separate the liquid whey from homemade or store-bought yogurt, yielding the thickest Greek yogurt possible. Using it is quite simple—you place yogurt in the mesh strainer above the included bowl, then place it in the refrigerator for several hours to drain. The strainer can transform up to two quarts of yogurt at a time, and it only takes a few hours. However, the mesh is not dishwasher safe and testers say it can be fragile, so the strainer must be washed and stored with care.

Best Manual: Country Trading Co. Stainless Steel Yogurt Maker

Material: Stainless Steel | Auto Option: no | Size:  7.87 x 5.11 in Different Flavors: no | Storage Containers: Glass | Container Lids: Stainless Steel

Pros


  • Portable
  • Compact design
  • Versatile

Cons


  • Temperature can drop
  • Best results when using a commercial starter
  • Requires some trial and error

Why we chose it: This old-school manual yogurt maker is fashioned out of stainless steel and teamed with a glass mason jar for those wanting to make creamy yogurt, labneh, sour cream, or cultured butter. 

This low-tech yogurt maker, which includes a stainless steel flask and one-quart glass jar, is used like a thermos. You make the yogurt by heating milk, mixing it with the starter, putting it in the glass jar, and transferring it to the flask, which is designed to retain the heat of the yogurt for about eight to 12 hours. Capable of making yogurt, labneh, sour cream, and cultured butter, the manual yogurt maker is praised for its versatile functionality and electricity-free design. However, it’s best paired with a commercial yogurt starter to yield the best results, and users mention occasional trouble with keeping the heat for the full amount of time. You may have to test the yogurt maker in different areas of your home or add warm water to the flask before using.

Best Multi-Function: Instant Pot Duo 7-in-1 Pressure Cooker

Material: Stainless steel | Auto Option: Digital timer | Size: 10 -12 servings | Item Dimensions: 13.38 x 12.2 x 12.48 in. | Weight: 11.8 pounds | Different Flavors: No | Storage Containers: No | Container Lids: No

Pros


  • Large quantity
  • Has an automatic function
  • Multi-purpose appliance

Cons


  • Residual flavors may leach into yogurt
  • Pricey
  • Takes up a lot of countertop space

Why we chose it: A multi-cooker that can serve a variety of purposes, this handy gadget is for tech-loving chefs who want to do it all. 

Made for many purposes (including yogurt making, pressure cooking, slow cooking, rice cooking, steaming, and more), the Instant Pot Duo is worth the higher price tag and counter space. Plus, it makes yogurt easy with its “yogurt” setting that’s pre-programmed to make perfect, creamy yogurt. The yogurt will be ready in about eight to 12 hours, although it may take trial and error to find your consistency of choice. One word of warning: some users find that their yogurt can take on the flavors of other dishes made in the pressure cooker, so the inner pot and sealing ring must be thoroughly cleaned before using it for yogurt.

Best Collapsible: Cuispro Collapsible Yogurt Maker

Material: Silicone and Plastic | Auto Option: Yes | Item Dimensions: 11.5 x 10.5 x 9.25 in. | Weight: 2 pounds | Different Flavors: Yes | Storage Containers: No | Container Lids: No

Pros


  • Large compartment accommodates various containers
  • Collapses down for easy storage
  • Single button operation/automatic shut-off

Cons


  • Thermometer, starter, and containers sold separately
  • Not dishwasher-safe
  • Some jars may not fit

Why we chose it: Suitable for any kitchen, this collapsible yogurt maker takes up limited counter and storage space. 

A one-touch machine with automatic shut-off produces smooth yogurt before handily collapsing down to a three-inch height for easy storage. Fashioned out of silicone and plastic, this lightweight model is a great option for anyone looking for a streamlined yogurt maker that doesn’t take up too much kitchen space. This Cuisipro model does not come with storage jars, but they can be purchased separately.

How We Chose These Products

Yogurt makers were tested by professional pastry chefs and home bakers using Siggi’s brand whole milk yogurt as a starter. We researched models that ran the gamut from manual options to hands-off automatic machines. Based on reviews and input from high-end kitchenware retailers, we then tested a variety of options that were easy to use and accessible.

Features to Keep in Mind When Shopping for Yogurt Makers

Size

Size will be dependent upon your kitchen space and frequency of use. If you reach for it regularly, choose one that will easily find a landing place on a counter. Larger models, or those used less frequently, can be stored in a cabinet. If you prefer large quantities instead of individual portions, consider a larger capacity machine.

Features

Consider the features included with an electric or non-electric machine before purchasing a yogurt maker. If you consume large amounts of yogurt but prefer customizing your own flavors, choose a maker with individual jars. Automation functions will allow you to “set it and forget it,” while others require you to manually set time, temperature, and power. 

Capacity

Yogurt makers range in capacity from 16 ounces to 50 ounces, with 32-ounce models proving popular because they yield a sizable quantity without being too cumbersome.

Ask the Experts

Q: How does a yogurt maker work?

Making yogurt is an interaction between a starter culture (a mixture of live, active bacteria) and milk. Milk is heated to 180 degrees Fahrenheit, then allowed to cool to 110 degrees Fahrenheit. The milk is then combined with a yogurt starter, flavored if desired, and poured into either individual jars or a large container, which is placed inside the yogurt maker and programmed for the appropriate amount of time. When the yogurt has finished incubating in the machine, it is covered with a lid(s) and refrigerated.

Q: How do you clean a yogurt maker?

Check with the manufacturer’s recommendation. Most models with glass jars require a thorough wipe down of the machine and a dishwasher clean-up of the jars; plastic lids are best hand-washed. Avoid acidic detergents which are corrosive to metal. If using an Instant Pot, it is very important to thoroughly wash the stainless steel inner pot or risk residual odors and tastes leaching into your yogurt.

Q: Can I make Greek yogurt with a regular yogurt maker?

Greek yogurt can be made with a regular yogurt maker, but the yogurt will need to be set and strained afterward for a minimum of 10 to 12 hours.

Q: What is the ideal temperature for straining yogurt?

For a thick, spreadable yogurt akin to Greek or labneh, it is best to strain fully-set yogurt in the refrigerator for up to 48 hours or overnight. Yogurt can be strained on the counter in a kitchen with an ambient temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit or below, but only for less than two hours. Simply spoon the yogurt into a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth (or a large coffee filter), allowing the whey to drip into a bowl. Set a timer to check on it; the longer the yogurt strains, the stiffer it will become. 

Our Take

Homemade yogurt is worth the effort, and easier than you may think. By making it at home, you’re controlling the sweetness, thickness, and ingredients of your yogurt. Choose a yogurt maker that’s best suited to your needs and lifestyle, and be sure to read the manufacturer’s operating instructions before using it. 

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The Best Brownie Pans Help You Think Outside the Box https://www.saveur.com/shop/best-brownie-pans/ Mon, 02 May 2022 20:12:14 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=131502
Brownies
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Achieve crispy edges, chewy centers, and everything in between with these excellent baking tools.

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Brownies
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We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

For many bakers, some of their earliest recollections in the kitchen conjure fat, flour, sugar, chocolate, and a brownie pan. Not only are the ingredients easy to assemble, a batch is quick to mix and can be customized to your liking. Whether your brownie allegiance is truffle-y, cake-y, fudge-like, or crackle-topped brimming with add-ins, no doubt the end result will be dictated by the quality of your ingredients and the baking method you follow. 

But did you know that the type of brownie pan you choose will also play an integral role in the process? Before you pour yourself a tall glass of milk and begin rhapsodizing over your quintessential brownie recipe, start with the pan. If you are still using a wobbly aluminum foil version, a heavy glass pan,  or a well-loved, (but well-worn) lackluster pan, you deserve an upgrade. Consider a minor investment in one of the best brownie pans, tested and guaranteed to make every batch perfect.

Our Top Picks

Best Overall: USA PAN 8-Inch Square Cake Pan

Size: 8″ x 8″ x 2.25″ | Material: Aluminized Steel | Nonstick Coating: yes | Dishwasher Safe: No

Pros


  • Surface affords easy release
  • Heavy-weight, well constructed
  • Limited lifetime warranty

Cons


  • Best to use a non-abrasive brush to clean corners
  • Best to purchase directly through the manufacturer
  • Hand-wash and dry

Why we chose it: Top-notch construction plus a unique corrugated bottom ensures excellent heat distribution; the environmentally friendly coating ensures pan release is a cakewalk. 

Worthy of your favorite batch of brownies, the USA Pan 8-inch square is highly touted by home bakers and pros for a reason. Crafted out of heavy-duty aluminized steel, the pan is sturdy, reinforced with a rust-resistant coated wire that prevents warping. Its corrugated surface provides even and consistent heat distribution; no hot spots, no raw middles. Unlike some other pans with nonstick coatings, this pan delivers a finish that is neither too dark nor too light, ensuring the brownies achieve a deeply burnished edge with a properly baked interior. Coated in environmentally-friendly Americoat, after the brownies cool, they slip out of the pan like a dream, with clean, sharp edges. You’ll want to hand wash (and dry) this gem after each use; further protect it by using only silicone, nylon, or wooden utensils.

Best Value: Nordic Ware Natural Aluminum Commercial Baker’s Half Sheet

Size: Half Sheet: 17.88″ L x 12.88″ W x 1.06″ H | Material: Aluminum | Nonstick Coating: Yes | Dishwasher Safe: No

Pros


  • Professional grade quality/USA made
  • Excellent heat conductivity
  • Sturdy

Cons


  • Hand-wash and dry
  • Preferable for thin brownies

Why we chose it: A comfortably priced pan for lovers of low-slung, chewy brownies that are easy to portion.

Nordic Ware delivers a traditional, well-constructed baking sheet for thin brownies. A generous batch bakes evenly, is a cinch to portion, and releases from the pan with ease; bonus points for low maintenance and no fuss clean-up. A go-to in many commercial kitchens, this is a popular choice amongst caterers who divvy up large quantities of bar cookies on repeat. Lining the pan with lightly greased parchment will further protect the pan’s surface. Testers also applaud the variety of sizes available and the fact that this pan is easy to store.

Best Uncoated: Parrish Magic Line Square Pan 8″ x 8″ x 2″

Size: 8” x 8” x 2” | Material: Heavy Gauge Aluminum | Nonstick Coating: No | Dishwasher Safe: No

Pros


  • Perfectly straight sides yield clean, sharp edges
  • Easy to maneuver due to wide lip
  • Even heat distribution

Cons


  • Best lined with parchment
  • Might need a few additional minutes of baking time
  • Stubborn crumbs might stick in the corners

Why we chose it: The choice in many commercial kitchens, this sturdy pan with sharp, straight sides yields beautifully baked brownies with plenty of heft and chew.

Parrish Magic Line pans have a dedicated following for several reasons. Sturdy, well-made pans encourage even baking and deliver smooth-topped brownies with clean, sharp edges for a professional look. Don’t be put off by their uncoated finish; simply line the pan with parchment and lightly grease. These are easy to maneuver (you’ll never have to worry about accidentally dragging your thumb through the surface) due to the nice wide lip framing the pan. Clémence de Lutz, co-owner and baking instructor of The Gourmandise School in Santa Monica, Calif. gives these pans a rave review: “I love the Magic Line (made in LA by Parrish) 8-inch x 8-inch square pan because the sides are nice and sharp, it’s light-colored aluminum AND I line it with two crossed quarter sheet pieces of parchment paper… it’s an oh-so-satisfying perfect fit.” Testers who were new to this pan said the results were superior.

Best For Bite-size Brownies: Nordic Ware Pro-Cast Brownie Bites Pan

Size: 9.7″ x 9.7″ x 0.9″ | Material: Cast Aluminum | Nonstick Coating: Yes | Dishwasher Safe: No

Pros


  • Well made
  • For entertaining/gift-giving, a good addition to traditional pans
  • 10-year warranty

Cons


  • Easy to overfill
  • Requires grease/flour to prevent sticking
  • Must be turned out of the pan before completely cool to prevent sticking

Why we chose it: A nifty little pan for brownie fans who enjoy a chewy edge and a smooth surface for adding embellishment.

For anyone wishing to personalize their brownie, this pan yields a chocolate-y 2-inch canvas with just enough indentation to spark your brownie imagination. It boasts sixteen 2-inch square wells, offering the best of both brownie worlds: chewy centers with toothsome edges. Testers warn, however, to spritz lightly with baking spray and dust with cocoa before filling, taking care not to overfill the pan wells. Best with batters that do not have mix-ins. Silicone tools will preserve the pan’s finish.

Best For Brownie Sundaes: All-American Brownie Mix and Brownie Bowl Pan Set

Size: 5¾” x 11″ x 1¾” (makes six 3 ½” bowls) | Material: Steel and Aluminum | Nonstick Coating: Yes | Dishwasher Safe: No

Pros


  • Innovative design/generous portion
  • Even baking
  • Easy release

Cons


  • Hand-wash only
  • Best to lightly spritz with cooking spray before use

Why we chose it: Turn your brownie upside down for a fun take on the classic square.

King Arthur Baking teamed up with the folks at USA Pans to create a unique brownie pan that transforms rich, chocolate-y brownie batter into generously portioned brownie bowls. Limited strictly by your imagination, these edible vessels are perfectly suited to brownie sundaes: fill them with ice cream, top them with whipped cream and fresh fruit, or drizzle them with sauces. Suitable for any number of classic brownie recipes, we tested this pan with the brownie mix supplied by King Arthur in their Brownie Bowl Pan set. Lightly spritzing the pan with baking spray before filling helped ensure brownies maintained their shape and didn’t stick. The pan yields six 3 ½” bowls which are generously sized; some bakers suggested they were large enough to be shared by two. If you can resist them, they are ideal to wrap and tuck away in the freezer for when the mood strikes. Take note to wash and dry the pan before its initial use and spray lightly with baking spray to ensure easy release. Additionally, be sure to check out the test kitchen and product description tips on the King Arthur website for recommended baking and cooling times.

Best Lidded Pan: Nordic Ware Covered Aluminum Cake Pan

Size: Exterior 15.63″ L x 9.63″ W x 3.25″ H Interior: L: 13″ W: 8.9″ H: 2.5″ | Material: Aluminum | Nonstick Coating: No | Dishwasher Safe: No

Pros


  • Nordic Ware quality
  • Even heat distribution
  • Compatible with standard brownie recipes that fit a 9” x 13” pan

Cons


  • Hand-wash and dry
  • Best lined with parchment

Why we chose it: Bakers love to share their finished products; this pan with its sturdy base and airtight lid deserves a place in your arsenal. 

For anyone who has ever wrangled a sheet of plastic wrap in the hopes of wrapping a fresh tray of brownies for transport, this is the pan for you. Brownie pans with sea-worthy lids are rare, typically limited to lackluster plastic tops. Leave it to the folks at Nordic Ware to deliver a pan that handily bakes brownies and provides an airtight lid for both transport and storing leftovers. Nordic Ware quality is evident in the pan and also in the lid, making this a great gift for any baker with a penchant for sharing. Be sure to wash this before its maiden voyage and after each use. Avoid metal utensils and abrasive scouring pads.

How We Chose These Products

Pans were tested with made-from-scratch brownies using Rose Levy Beranbaum’s Fudge Brownies recipe with the exception of the brownie bowl pan, which was tested with King Arthur All American Brownie mix. All brownies were baked in a conventional oven; unlined pans were lined with lightly greased parchment paper while nonstick pans were lightly spritzed with baking spray and dusted with cocoa powder.

Features to Keep in Mind When Shopping for Brownie Pans

Light metal pans are preferable to those with a dark finish because dark pans absorb more heat. Glass pans are slow to heat up, however, once hot they will retain their heat for much longer than metal pans, which is not the best environment for brownies, causing the exterior to bake too quickly. By the time the center of the brownies are sufficiently baked, the exterior is often overbaked; and the longer the brownies sit in a hot glass pan the longer they will hold on to the residual heat and continue to dry out.

Heat Resistance

Pans made of aluminized steel are durable and excellent conductors of heat. Additionally, their lighter finish prevents overly browned brownies. Most brownie baking pans are suitable for temperatures between 350 and 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

Easy To Clean

Pans with nonstick silicone coatings will clean up easily but should not be washed in the dishwasher. Taking the time to line unlined pans with parchment paper and/or greasing the pans will encourage easy clean-up.

Material

Lighter bakeware prevents over-browning. The best materials for brownie pans are aluminized steel or anodized aluminum, due to their light finish and durability.

Non Stick

A nonstick brownie pan is best washed by hand to protect its finish. It pays to invest in and use non-abrasive utensils with nonstick pans. Despite nonstick finishes, it’s often a good idea to lightly spritz a nonstick pan with baking spray to ensure easy release. As always, check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the best way to maintain the quality of your pan.

Ask the Experts 

Q: What type of pan is best for brownies?

Lightweight aluminum pans conduct heat quickly and evenly, making them ideal for brownies. It’s best to avoid glass bakeware and ceramic pans, which despite being durable and designed to go from oven to table, are slow to heat, retain the heat longer, and run the risk of overbaking your brownies. 

Q: Are brownies better in a glass or metal pan?

Pros tend to opt for metal over glass, specifically turning to aluminum. Because aluminum bakes evenly and is reflective, the chance of excessive browning is less likely. Additionally, aluminum is less likely to rust, or in the case of glass, break. Because glass is an insulator, rather than a conductor, it takes time to heat. The drawback to this is in the end, the pan will retain its heat for longer; if you don’t adjust your oven accordingly (some pros suggest reducing oven temperature by 25 degrees when baking in glass), brownies may overbake and wind up drying out. Metal pans are also preferred over glass for their clean, crisp corners as opposed to rounded edges. 

Q: How big is the perfect brownie pan?

An 8 x 8-inch or 9 x 9-inch square pan will deliver the iconic bar, depending on your preferred brownie height. For bakers preferring a big batch, opt for a 9 x 13-inch pan.

Q: How do you get crispy edges on brownies? 

Brownies bake from the outer edge towards the center of the pan meaning the edges cook faster than the center. This results in a border that is both crispy and chewy, while the center retains a softer, fudgier consistency. Allowing the brownies to cool completely before cutting them gives the edges a chance to firm up (caused when the butter solids and chocolate are allowed to stabilize) which will yield firm, slightly crispy edges. The heat of your oven also contributes to some degree of crispiness; a hotter oven temperature tends to result in a slightly crispier edge ,but it’s critical not to overbake any brownies which will zap their moisture and result in dry, crumbly bars.

Q: Should brownies cool in a pan?

Yes. When using an aluminum pan, it is best to allow the brownies to rest for a minimum of one hour. Either let the brownies cool completely or cool then refrigerate to ensure the neatest slices. Ceramic and glass pans retain heat; residual heat is a culprit in overbaked brownies and those pans play by a slightly different set of rules (lower oven temperature and shorter cooling time).

Q: What makes brownies more chewy? 

Using canola oil in addition to butter, and adding some dark brown sugar to the mix will yield chewier brownies. The acidity in brown sugar will speed gluten formation helping contribute to chewiness. Allowing brownies to cool completely before cutting will also yield a chewy texture.  To encourage caramelized edges, bake them in a flat, edged baking sheet  For neat slices, cool completely or refrigerate before slicing. Lower slung brownies are often chewier in general to brownies baked in a taller pan because they are closer to the heat source and bake for a shorter period of time.

Our Take

Depending upon the type of brownie you prefer, do some research before choosing a brownie pan. Traditional brownie pans made from aluminized steel are durable and good conductors of heat. Glass and ceramic pans are insulators, rather than conductors, and take longer to heat and cool down, making them less suitable for baking brownies. Hand-washing a brownie pan will preserve its finish.

The post The Best Brownie Pans Help You Think Outside the Box appeared first on Saveur.

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The No-Fail, No-Mixer-Required Guide to Flaky, All-Butter Pie Crust https://www.saveur.com/food/how-to-make-pie-crust/ Fri, 29 Apr 2022 03:14:05 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=131465
How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

No food processor? No problem.

The post The No-Fail, No-Mixer-Required Guide to Flaky, All-Butter Pie Crust appeared first on Saveur.

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How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

Rarely have two words and a handful of simple ingredients prompted so much trepidation amongst bakers. Equal parts science and art, pie crust is a task that asks little more of us than guiding flour, fat, and liquid into a cohesive mass by means of a cool touch.  Why then, are many pie lovers driven to pre-made crusts or mediocre store bought pies? 

From what I’ve gathered from years spent baking pies professionally (and consuming them whenever possible), folks without pie bakers in their lives tend to set the bar differently. Because the idea of strictly-from-scratch pie dough is intimidating, they might be content with commercially made, lackluster pie. But I find that once you’ve tasted a flaky, pure-butter crust, you’ll choose to set those standards higher. 

It’s not only casual bakers who fear pie dough. Gifted chefs and talented home cooks are among those who leave the pie baking to their local supermarket or bakery. Coupled with the fact that pie is often the centerpiece of an event, (hello, Thanksgiving and July 4th), the dessert stakes can seem a little too high for anyone hoping to flex their kitchen skills.

Trepidations aside, learning how to make pie crust by hand is a talent well worth your time, and one that becomes far less daunting with a little practice. Here’s how to do it:

Classic All-Butter Pie Dough

Step 1:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

First, make a little bit of room in your fridge—you’ll need space for a 2-cup liquid measuring cup and for the assembled dough to rest. Then, measure out your ingredients—in a large bowl, whisk together 2½ cups of all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon of sugar, and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt.

Step 2:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

To a 2-cup liquid measuring cup add ½ cup of ice water and 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar, then transfer to the fridge.

Step 3:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

Cut two 4-ounce sticks of very cold unsalted (preferably European-style) butter into ½-inch pieces. Lightly flour a clean work surface, then, using the side of a floured, flexible bowl scraper, lightly flatten the butter pieces. This extra step gives you a jump-start incorporating the cold fat into the flour. Scoop up the flattened butter pieces and add them to the flour mixture.

Step 4:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

Using your fingertips to incorporate, gently squeeze and toss the butter into the flour mixture until the butter has mostly broken down, with some pea-sized and some larger pieces remaining.

Step 5:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

Retrieve the water-vinegar mixture from the fridge and pour half around the edge of the bowl.

Step 6:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

Incorporate the liquid into the dry ingredients by tossing the mixture with your fingers and palms facing upwards. The idea is to think of this process as “tossing a salad” and not “stirring a dough.” Rotating the bowl as you go allows you to evenly add water to the mix.

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

A tablespoon at a time, add almost all of the remaining water-vinegar mixture, and continue tossing, just until the dough becomes slightly shaggy but not overly moist. 

Step 7:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

If the dough is too dry, add an additional teaspoon or two of the remaining liquid, tossing gently, just until the dough keeps its shape and holds together in a solid mass when gently squeezed. (In total, you will only need ½ cup of liquid—possibly less depending upon several factors: weather, humidity, heat of your kitchen, and the type of flour you are using.)

Step 8:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface, divide it in half, then gently press each half into an even ½-inch disk.

Step 9:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

Wrap each disk tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 3 days.

Step 10:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

Lightly flour a clean work surface and a rolling pin. Retrieve and unwrap one disk of dough. (If it is ice cold, let it come to room temperature for about 10 minutes.) Think of the circle of dough as a clock face; place your rolling pin horizontally (between “9 and 3”) and roll upwards, then place the pin back in the middle and roll downwards. Lift the dough and rotate it a quarter turn and repeat the process. The idea is not to overly work the dough or stretch it. Use a firm yet gentle touch, taking care not to roll and reroll over the same area. Turning the dough a quarter turn after each up and down roll gives you an evenly rolled circle of dough.  Keeping the pin towards the center of the dough gives you greater control over the thickness. You’re looking to roll the dough out to an even, 13-inch circle, about ⅛-inch thick.

Step 11:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

Lightly flour the rolling pin once more, then place it on the far left edge of the dough circle and carefully roll the dough around the pin, gently lifting it away from the surface in one smooth sheet. Place the dough-wrapped rolling pin over the far right edge of your pie plate and unroll the dough, centering it over the plate.

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

Using your fingers (dust them with flour as needed), ease—don’t stretch—the dough along the bottom and the sides of the pie plate. Using a paring knife, trim the edges.

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

If you are making a single-crust pie, you can fold and crimp the edges at this point; if adding a top crust or lattice, however, save that step for when the top crust is in place. Transfer the pie plate to a baking sheet, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm.

Step 12:

How to Pie Crust
Photography by Belle Morizio

If desired, roll out the top crust, then slide the circle of dough onto a second, parchment-paper-lined baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate while you make the filling.

Extra Pie Dough Wisdom

•Don’t obsess over perfection; instead, find the joy in the process. 

•Pay attention to temperature at every stage; the temperature of the kitchen, of the dough, of your hands, and of your ingredients. Don’t be afraid of refrigerating the dough throughout the process or even dunking your fingers into a bowl of ice water if your hands tend to run hot. 

•Remember, the better the butter, the better the flavor. Unsalted, European-style butter has a lower water content than conventional American butter, and so delivers a far more memorable pie dough. 

•Plan ahead because good pie takes time. One of the critical pieces contributing to a good pie crust is allowing the dough to simply rest in the refrigerator; this step is non-negotiable, so don’t be tempted to rush it. When water and flour combine, gluten naturally forms and can lead to a tough crust; adding vinegar to the water helps to curb this reaction. Additionally, as the pie dough rests in the fridge, that gluten relaxes. 

•When you’re learning how to make pie crust by hand, don’t be afraid to practice—and practice again. 

Alternative Method: How To Make Pie Crust In a Food Processor

The food processor method is less desirable, but if it encourages you to make your own pie dough, go ahead and use this time saver with one caveat; once the butter has been cut into the flour mixture, transfer the mixture to a large, chilled bowl and add the ice water by hand. Adding the liquid to the food processor increases the risk of over-mixing and toughening the dough. Unlike pushing a button and hoping for the best, when you add the water by hand, you are in control and can get a true feel of when the dough is sufficiently hydrated.

Recipes

Grown-up Rhubarb Pie

Rhubarb Pie Recipe
Photography by Belle Morizio

Get the recipe >

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Grown-up Rhubarb Pie https://www.saveur.com/recipes/rhubarb-pie-recipe/ Fri, 29 Apr 2022 03:14:03 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=131474
Rhubarb Pie Recipe
Photography by Belle Morizio

Hold the strawberries—gin, ginger, and cardamom sing backup in this sweet-tart spring dessert.

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Rhubarb Pie Recipe
Photography by Belle Morizio

Blush pink rhubarb pairs beautifully with gin and ginger in pie writer Ellen Gray’s classic all-butter crust. The extra steps of blind baking and adding a thin layer of cookie crumbs—amaretti pair particularly well with the rhubarb—help contain the pie plant’s notorious runaway juices. European-style butter is best here for making the pie dough, as it contains less water and more fat than conventional American versions, resulting in a richer result.

Featured in: “The No-Fail, No-Mixer-Required Guide to Flaky, All-Butter Pie Crust.

Yield: 6
Time: 3 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the beet preserves:

  • 1½ lb. medium beets, rinsed and tough ends removed
  • 1⅓ cups sugar
  • ⅓ cup honey
  • ½ tsp. ground ginger
  • 1 medium lemon, washed, thinly sliced, and seeded
  • 1 medium orange, peeled and segmented
  • ½ cup finely chopped almonds

For the fritters:

  • 3 sheets plain matzo
  • ⅔ cup sugar, divided
  • ½ tsp. ground cardamom, divided
  • ½ tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
  • 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest
  • Pinch kosher salt
  • Pinch freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 large eggs, separated
  • ¼ cup matzo meal
  • 2 Tbsp. finely chopped almonds
  • 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
  • 1 medium rhubarb stalk, finely chopped (¾ cup)
  • Vegetable oil, for frying

Instructions

  1. Make the beet preserves: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Place a small plate in the freezer. Wrap each beet individually in foil, then transfer to a large baking sheet. Bake until the beets are fork tender, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. When the beets are cool enough to handle, use paper towels to rub off and discard the skins. Slice the peeled beets into fat matchsticks.
  2. In a medium pot over medium heat, stir together the beets, sugar, honey, ginger, and ¼ cup of cold water. Simmer, stirring occasionally with a silicone spatula, until the liquid has reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Turn the heat to low, then stir in the lemon slices and orange segments. Continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the mixture is concentrated and jammy, and the spatula leaves a line at the bottom of the pot without coming right back together, about 30 minutes more.
  3. To test for doneness, retrieve the plate from the freezer, add a spoonful of jam, and return the plate to the freezer for 2 minutes. Remove the plate and gently move the jam with your fingertip. If the jam forms a skin and wrinkles, it is ready and the pot is ready to be removed from the heat. If not, return the plate to the freezer, and continue cooking for an additional 5 minutes, then test again.
  4. Once ready, remove the jam from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, stir in the almonds, then transfer the jam to sterilized jars, cover tightly, and refrigerate until ready to serve (or store for up to 2 weeks).
  5. Make the fritters: Working with one sheet at a time, run the matzo under lukewarm water just until softened, about 2 minutes. Drain in a colander, gently squeeze out the excess water, and set aside.
  6. In a small bowl, whisk together ⅓ cup of sugar, ¼ teaspoon of cardamom, the cinnamon, lemon and orange zests, salt, and black pepper. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually whisk in the sugar mixture. Stir in the matzo meal, almonds, lemon juice, rhubarb, and reserved softened matzo.
  7. In a medium bowl, use a hand mixer to whip the egg whites until stiff peaks form, taking care not to overbeat. Using a silicone spatula, gently fold the whipped whites into the matzo mixture just until incorporated. Cover and refrigerate the batter for 30 minutes.
  8. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the remaining sugar and cardamom. Set aside.
  9. Line a large baking sheet with paper towels and set it by the stove. Into a large pot fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour the oil to a depth of 2 inches and turn the heat to medium-high. Retrieve the batter from the fridge. When the temperature reads 375°F, working in batches, carefully drop rounded tablespoons of the batter into the oil (avoid crowding) and fry, turning once, until crispy and golden brown all over, 45–60 seconds per side. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fritters to the prepared baking sheet to drain. Repeat with the remaining batter.
  10. Gently toss the fritters in the reserved cardamom sugar and serve warm, with the beet preserves on the side. (Leftover fritters can be reheated on a parchment-lined baking sheet in a 325°F oven just before serving.)

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The Best Gluten-Free Flours for Baking in 2022 https://www.saveur.com/shop/best-gluten-free-flours/ Mon, 21 Mar 2022 14:41:24 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=130120
Best Gluten Free Flours
Klaus Nielsen/Pexels.

Choosing the right gluten-free flour for your recipe is the key to success, no matter what you're baking.

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Best Gluten Free Flours
Klaus Nielsen/Pexels.

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

Homemade fluffy cakes, flaky biscuits, tender muffins, and even chewy pizza dough were once just memories for those who had gone gluten-free. But, with the array of gluten-free flours now accessible at supermarkets across the country, and many recipes tailored to baking with them, those treats are within reach again—with a bit of research. 

First, the good news: Owing to increased demand from those with gluten intolerance or Celiac disease, the availability of gluten-free flours and products has skyrocketed. According to Spoonshot, which analyzes millions of data points to track the growth of such trends, consumer interest in gluten-free flours and products has nearly quadrupled over the last decade. 

The challenge is that not all gluten-free flours perform the same way. Gluten’s principal function is to give dough elasticity, provide a chewy texture and help baked goods maintain their shape. Mimicking the taste and texture of traditional grain-based baked goods often means using a blend of gluten-free flours to get the same effect. Luckily, some companies have made that convenient by introducing gluten-free flour blends designed to replace traditional all-purpose flour at a one-to-one ratio. So, with all of the gluten-free flour options available to bakers, how do you choose?

We turned to experts, like Jessica Scarola, owner of Elegant Elephant Baking in Eugene, Oregon, to weigh in on the best gluten-free flours. “Honestly, I have tried every mix on the market,” she says. And while she doesn’t believe there will ever be a singular multipurpose blend for all gluten-free baking, she recommends seeking out your favorite blend for cakes, breads, and so on. But, it’s not always an easy search. “In gluten-free baking the ratio of starch to grain to binder matters to the gram,” says Scarola. “And within the gluten-free community, there are so many additional allergies or restrictions people face.”

Chris Stafferton, aka @breadarchitect, is the author of Promise & Fulfillment: Formulas for Real Bread without Gluten. He takes an interesting approach to gluten-free baking: “I consider the bread I want to make, then design the flour mix to make that bread. Sometimes it’s a single flour, sometimes it may be two or three flours.”

Whether you choose to utilize a straight-forward gluten-free blend, doctor up a mix, or create your own, consider what you plan to bake, other dietary restrictions, and budget. We spoke with experts in the field of gluten-free baking and took some products out for a test drive in order to arrive at our best gluten-free flour picks. Here’s a good place to start:

Our Top Picks

Best Overall: Gluten-Free Measure for Measure Flour – King Arthur Baking Company

 Weight: 1 lb. | Ingredients: Rice flour, whole grain brown rice flour, whole sorghum flour, tapioca starch, potato starch, cellulose, xanthan gum, vitamin and mineral blend | Good for: Cookies, cakes, brownies, muffins, quick breads, pancakes

Pros


  • Easy 1-for-1 swap
  • Typical bakes have good texture and rise
  • Available in two sizes

Cons


  • Slight taste of brown rice
  • Not suitable for yeasted doughs

Why we chose it: A simple swap of all-purpose flour for this blend will have you whipping up muffins, cookies, cakes, brownies, pancakes, and other gluten-free desserts with ease. And the results are very tasty.

This is an excellent flour blend that takes some of the guesswork out of gluten-free baking while providing flavor that comes very close to mimicking traditional flour. Testers who baked cookies, quick breads, and cakes gave high marks for taste without gumminess. Also (thankfully) missing was that disappointing aftertaste often found in gluten-free blends. If you are testing the waters of gluten-free baking or simply need to bake a birthday cake for a gluten-sensitive pal, this eliminates much of the guesswork. Available in both 1-pound and 3-pound bags, casual as well as serious gluten-free bakers can choose accordingly.

Best Value: Krusteaz Gluten-Free Flour

Weight:. 32 oz. | Ingredients: Whole grain sorghum flour, brown rice flour (rice flour, stabilized rice bran with germ), whole grain millet flour, rice flour | Contains 2% or less of the following: food starch-modified, whole grain quinoa flour, xanthan gum | Good for: Pancakes, cookies, brownies, muffins 

Pros


  • Budget friendly
  • Good for those with tapioca allergy
  • Available in bulk – store extra bags in the freezer

Cons


  • Measure carefully to prevent dense bakes
  • Slight taste from brown rice flour
  • Slight learning curve with baking time

Why we chose it: There’s more to this blend than a comfortable price point. A versatile blend designed to be used as a 1:1 swap for all-purpose flour in your favorite recipes, this is a fine product to experiment with as you hone your gluten-free baking skills. 

At just 13 cents per ounce, this versatile blend of whole-grain sorghum flour, brown rice flour, whole-grain millet flour, and xanthan gum is designed to replace wheat-based flour in equal parts. Testers appreciated this blend as an affordable option when turning out cookies, brownies, muffins, and pancakes; results were good with a few caveats. Brown rice flour does lend a distinctive flavor that some bakers may not like for delicate cakes and cookies. It is important to measure carefully (weighing your ingredients is best) to avoid dense batters. Well-mixed batters that are given some resting time fare better, allowing the flours and starches an opportunity to absorb the liquid ingredients and soften. This extra step yielded pancakes, cookies, brownies, and muffins with more rise. Baking time varies depending upon the recipe; some items need more beyond a “clean test.”

Best Multi-Purpose: Cup4Cup Gluten-Free Flour, Multipurpose Flour

Weight: 3 lbs. | Ingredients: Cornstarch, white rice flour, milk powder, tapioca flour, potato starch, xanthan gum | Good for: Biscuits, muffins, cookies, sauces, cream puffs 

Pros


  • Neutral flavor closely replicates all-purpose flour
  • 1-to-1 substitution for all-purpose and wheat flour
  • Excellent recipes on Cup-4-Cup website

Cons


  • Contains milk and corn
  • Expensive

Why we chose it: Avid gluten-free bakers rave about Cup-4-Cup’s Multipurpose Flour blend, which combinaes cornstarch, rice flours (brown and white), milk powder, tapioca flour, potato starch, and xanthan gum.

The blend is great for classic desserts like cream puffs and eclairs, muffins, cookies, and even thickening sauces, but testers applaud the way this flour truly shines in biscuit recipes. Created at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry restaurant, the good news about this blend is that baked goods brown just as beautifully as regular flour. (Though for dairy-sensitive folks that’s bad news, because the ingredient that encourages the browning is milk powder.)

Best For Pizza, Breads, and Pasta: Antimo Caputo Gluten-Free Pizza Flour 

Weight: 2 lbs. 2 oz. | Ingredients: Gluten-free wheat starch, dextrose, maize starch, buckwheat flour, rice starch, psyllium seed fiber, thickener: guar, flavoring | Good for: Pizza, breads, pasta

Pros


  • Free from top allergens
  • Chewy texture and high marks for taste
  • Restaurant worthy

Cons


  • Sandy texture
  • Contains wheat starch making it unsuitable for those with a wheat allergy

Why we chose it: Although this blend is not suitable for all, finding a gluten-free pizza dough that stretches and holds together is rare. Add to the mix great taste and your gluten-free pizza-making days will be dramatically changed for the better.

This gluten-free pizza flour is made by a company known for its authentic Italian flour brands, but it is not suitable for everyone who follows a gluten-free diet. The one serious drawback to this flour is that it contains wheat starch, making it unsuitable for anyone with a wheat sensitivity. Having said that, for individuals who can consume wheat starch, this is an excellent choice. Popular in many restaurant kitchens, the flour does come with a high price tag, but dedicated fans rave about the texture and flavor.

Best Lifespan: Viva Naturals Organic Coconut Flour

Weight: 4 lbs. | Ingredients: Organic coconut flour|  Good for: Cakes, muffins, pancakes

Pros


  • Excellent for baked goods, particularly those with a pronounced coconut flavor
  • Though low in sugar, has a natural sweet flavor
  • Gluten-free and hypoallergenic

Cons


  • Expensive and not shelf stable
  • Distinct taste may be unsuitable for certain bakes
  • Tricky to bake with — best to use with proven recipes from reputable sources

Why we chose it: Not just for coconut-centric bakes, keep this one in the fridge for up to one year and enjoy cookies, brownies, breads, tortillas, and pancakes. A 90-day money-back guarantee sweetens the purchase. 

The only ingredient in this flour is certified organic coconuts. Its light, natural sweetness enhances baked goods without overpowering them. Testers appreciated the texture of the finely-sifted flour, and while the distinctive taste of coconut is noticeable, for sweet baked goods this is a natural pairing. In baked goods, there is a learning curve; using less coconut flour than you would regular grain flour. Coconut flour tends to be “thirsty,” meaning recipes may require an additional egg and/or additional liquid in order to bind. One major complaint amongst users is the packaging: the ziplock bag seal does not seal easily. If not using the flour regularly, best to divide the 4-pound bag into single-pound bags and place extras in the freezer. 

How We Chose These Products

In addition to seeking the knowledge of experts in the gluten-free flour field, we also spoke with gluten-free bakers (home and professionals) to get their input. When applicable, flours were tested with suitable recipes; our testers baked gluten-free chocolate chip cookies, gluten-free banana muffins, gluten-free biscuits, and gluten-free pizza dough. Additionally, we reached out to customer service reps at King Arthur Flour, Bob’s Red Mill, and Cup-4-Cup for their expertise and clarification.

Features to Keep in Mind When Shopping for Gluten-free Flour

Gluten-free flour blends differ considerably, which means you should choose a flour specifically intended for the recipe you are baking while taking into account your food sensitivities and allergies.

Added Ingredients

The more ingredients in the mix, the higher the odds you’ll introduce additional components, which might open the door to more sensitivities or allergens. 

Flavor

Garbanzo flour has a very pronounced flavor that is unwelcome in many baked goods. Brown rice flour is far less objectionable, but still has a distinctive taste that some bakers might find overpowering. By keeping notes when you bake, and choosing flours that are best suited to the recipe, you stand a better chance of finding a good balance of flavor.

Packaging & Labels

Just because something is labeled gluten-free doesn’t mean it’s free of all gluten entirely. The United States Food and Drug Administration allows products labeled “gluten-free” to have up to 20 parts per million of gluten. Products labeled “certified gluten-free” must have less than 10 parts per million. 

Versatility

Gluten-free blends are often distinguished by their strong suits; in other words, do a little research before diving in. That means check the recipe, find the best-suited flour for what it is you are baking, and understand that not every flour will succeed in every type of baked good.

Ask the Experts

Q: Which type of gluten-free flour is best for baking? 

The truth is there isn’t one single gluten-free flour that is the best for baking across the board. Instead, it is important to use a flour that is best suited to the recipe you are making. In a blend, each component, particularly the type of flour, will impact the baked good; this is indeed an example where the sum of its parts is critical to the outcome. Certain flours, such as blends incorporating garbanzo flour, brown rice flour, or coconut flour will have distinctive tasting notes.

Q: Which gluten-free flours can replace all-purpose flour?

There are several cup for cup options on the market, but gluten-free flour cannot completely mimic the taste or structure of all-purpose flour. Additionally, gluten-free flours have a shorter shelf life than traditional flours; keep this in mind when purchasing so you can store them properly and ensure freshness for months to come. 

Q: Which gluten-free flour is healthiest?  

Jessica Scarola says, “I’d turn to almond flour or a blend utilizing both almond and coconut. Additionally, look for psyllium husk or flaxseed meal on the ingredient list.” Because so many gluten-free blends are exclusively starches and rice flours they don’t have the same nutritional value as wheat flours.

Q: Can I substitute rice flour for gluten-free flour?  

Using rice flour in combination with other starches and flours will yield the best results. White rice flour offers a neutral flavor and smooth texture while brown rice flour contributes earthiness while providing heft to baked goods.

Our Take

Ultimately, the type of gluten-free flour you choose should be tethered to what you are baking, the recipe you are using, and most importantly, your allergy/sensitivity profile. And while gluten-free flours simply cannot exactly replicate the texture and taste of traditional flour, our picks are certainly the best options of the products currently on the market.

The post The Best Gluten-Free Flours for Baking in 2022 appeared first on Saveur.

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Small but Mighty, The Best Hand Mixers Are More Powerful Than You Think https://www.saveur.com/shop/best-hand-mixers/ Tue, 31 Aug 2021 05:00:00 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=121541
Whipping cream with a mixer. Bubbles on cream

These 7 little wonders are real workhorses.

The post Small but Mighty, The Best Hand Mixers Are More Powerful Than You Think appeared first on Saveur.

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Whipping cream with a mixer. Bubbles on cream

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

I’ll say it right up front: a hand mixer deserves a spot in your kitchen. Designed to expertly blend cookie dough and aerate cake batters, today’s versions are a far cry from the rotary beaters of bygone eras. The newest models embrace technology and convenience, and are speedier and more powerful than their predecessors, easily whipping egg whites or heavy cream into lofty peaks. 

While a stand mixer reigns supreme when it comes to more complicated baking endeavors, food journalist Deanna Fox, a cooking school owner for 10 years, says it’s overkill for simple tasks. “Cakes, brownies, and soft cookie doughs all do just fine with the power of a three-speed hand mixer,” she explains. “I think a hand mixer keeps baked goods tender and makes soft pillows of cream, instead of globs that are 30 seconds away from butter. Plus, many kitchens aren’t big enough to justify a stand mixer for casual baking.” 

Though hand mixers may feel like less of a commitment, you should still choose wisely. The variety of options makes it easy to spend a little or quite a bit. The frequency with which you bake and what you bake should help dictate the type that best suits your needs. To help you decide, I tested different models, and spoke with experts across the spectrum. Here are our seven favorites on the market.

Our Top Picks

Best Overall: KitchenAid 9-Speed Digital Hand Mixer

Corded / Weight: 3.94 lbs. / Attachments: Soft scrape beaters, whisk, dough hooks / Storage container: Snap-on case

Why we chose it: Comfortable yet powerful, 9–speeds tackle all types of mixes from lightweight to heavy, and a no-tip feature keeps the appliance steady on the counter. 

Pros


  • Comfortable to hold
  • Power lock secures cord in place
  • No-tip feature

Cons


  • Best to hand-wash attachments
  • 1 year limited warranty

KitchenAid’s top-of-the-line handheld option offers more than substantial power and good looks. Two turbo beaters, a whisk, two dough hooks, and a blending rod provide plenty of mixing options, plus a nifty storage bag keeps everything together. The power lock secures the cord in place on either the right or left side (your choice), keeping it out of the fray. Weighing in at just two pounds, this mixer is comfortable, impressively powerful, and available in five colors. Designed with a no-tip feature, those of us who zip around a kitchen appreciate that it stays steady when standing upright. This model stays quiet even as it breezes through cookie doughs, batters, heavy cream, and egg whites.

Best Value: Hamilton Beach Professional 7-Speed Electric Hand Mixer

Corded / Weight: 3.94 lbs. / Attachments: Soft scrape beaters, whisk, dough hooks / Storage container: Snap-on case

Why we chose it: A truly slow first speed and soft scrape beaters make this well-priced, sturdy hand mixer a winner. 

Pros


  • Comfortable
  • Slow speed is truly slow
  • Easy to insert attachments
  • Soft scrape beaters protect bowls

Cons


  • 5 year warranty
  • Snap-on case is a little cumbersome
  • Slightly heavier than some other models

With plenty of speeds to tackle a multitude of tasks, this was the first hand mixer I purchased with rubberized beaters. Even after several years, they are still perfectly intact. Ideal for use in a ceramic bowl or stockpot, it’s great for whipping up mashed potatoes and sturdy enough to distribute dried fruit through oatmeal cookie dough.

Though weighty at almost four pounds, its ergonomic grip makes it comfortable and easy to hold, and for its size, it doesn’t sound like an airplane about to take flight. I’ve used the whisk and dough hooks on more occasions than I could have imagined, leaving my stand mixer jealously watching from the sidelines. I’m a fan of its lockable swivel cord and the quick-release trigger that removes beaters. The attachments can be stored below the mixer in a snap-on case, but be forewarned: it’s a bit fiddly. Opt for this one in black over silver for fewer fingerprints.

Best No-Frills: KitchenAid 5-Speed Ultra Power Hand Mixer

Corded / Weight: 2 lbs./ Attachments: Stainless steel beaters / Storage case: no

Why We Chose It: Less is more; 5 speeds get the job done comfortably, quietly, and capably.

Pros


  • Comfortable and quiet
  • Easy to clean
  • Perfect for whipping cream, meringue, blending light batters

Cons


  • Not suitable for heavy doughs
  • No storage case
  • One year warranty

I love this little mixer—it has stood the test of time, even in a high-volume bakery. I’ve relied on this five-speed wonder for years, witnessing it whip up heavy cream and meringue on the fly, and even whirling its way through commercial-size batches of pour-and-bake pie fillings (yes, even Thanksgiving pumpkin).

The powerful motor starts slow, builds to a comfortably high speed, is easy on the hands, and quick to clean. The stainless steel turbo beaters are the sole attachments—but honestly, they are all that you need. It comes in a crayon-box worth of colors and since it’s available at a comfortable price point, this is the one I love to give as a gift.

Best Cordless: KitchenAid 7-Speed Cordless Hand Mixer

Cordless / Weight: 3 lbs. / Battery charger for rechargeable lithium ion / Attachments: 2 Stainless steel turbo beaters

Why we chose it: Cordless convenience and surprisingly powerful 7-speeds handle lightweight mixing tasks with ease. A worthwhile addition in kitchens tight on space or for those who prefer the freedom of cordless mixing.

Pros


  • Lightweight and quiet yet powerful due to a 250 watt motor
  • Holds a charge well
  • Comfortable and easy to use

Cons


  • Not suitable for heavy doughs
  • No storage case
  • Needs at least 2 hours to fully charge

For anyone with a compact kitchen or a lack of outlets, this hand mixer is indeed a dream come true. I was initially skeptical of a battery-reliant mixer, but after experimenting with two different cordless models, I was sold on this one. I like the slow stir option for keeping all your ingredients in the bowl, and for a small mixer, this does a fine job on lightweight batters (e.g. cookie doughs, brownies, 1-2-3-4 cakes).

The cordless convenience of whipping seven-minute frosting right over a double boiler makes it worth the price; ditto for meringue. A few words on the battery: Give yourself plenty of time, at least two hours, to fully charge it. (For those of us who might leave things for the last minute, there is a 10-minute quick charge option.) Pay strict attention to the battery indicator light, which lets you know when it’s time to dock it—but doesn’t leave it sitting on the charger for days on end.

Best Splurge: Dualit Professional Hand Mixer

Corded / Weight: 3 lbs./ Attachments: Beaters, balloon whisks, dough hooks / Storage container: no

Why we chose it: Powerful with a full complement of attachments make this sleek model capable of multi-tasking with ease. 

Pros


  • Stable standing on its end
  • Powerful 300 watt motor
  • Comfortable grip and flat blade beaters

Cons


  • Retractable cord tricky to wind

The powerful Dualit Professional is a sleek little number with four speeds and a 300-watt motor that means business. It’s comfortable to hold, if a little weighty, surprisingly quiet, and well-equipped to tackle numerous tasks. I’m a fan of the flat blade beaters even though they might be considered old school; they are up to most mixing, blending, and beating challenges. Bonus points for attachments, like a balloon whisk and pair of dough hooks, made of durable stainless steel. One of its most talked about features is the retractable power cord that stows away into the rear of the mixer (admittedly, not without a little bit of coaxing). The no-nonsense eject button releases attachments on cue and the flat back sits handily on the counter.

Best Details: Cuisinart Power Advantage Plus 9-Speed Hand Mixer

Corded / Weight: 3.5 lbs. / Attachments: beaters, chef’s whisk, dough hooks, spatula, and instruction/recipe book / Storage container: yes

Why we chose it: A mixer that makes power adjustments based on applied stress is complete with a perfect set of attachments and boasts a swivel cord suited for right- or left-handed use.

Pros


  • Sturdy and powerful
  • Attachments for all types of mixing
  • Comfortable for both right-handed and left-handed use

Cons


  • Retractable cord tricky to wind

Sometimes the little things make an appliance stand out, which is the case with the Cuisinart Power Advantage Plus. Speeds are illuminated by a clear LCD display, and the mixer can be navigated comfortably with one hand; a swivel cord makes it easy for both right-handed and left-handed use. I appreciate a mixer that stands squarely on the countertop without wobbling as this one does. Take note of the automatic feedback feature which provides a mechanism that makes power adjustments based on applied stress. The mixer includes a pair of beaters, a chef’s whisk, two dough hooks, and a spatula, all of which are dishwasher safe. I liked the option of mixing thick doughs with either the beaters or switching over to the dough hooks.

Though not as quiet as some hand mixers, 220 watts of power and its ease of operation cannot be overlooked. Everything is backed by a three-year warranty, and it can all be housed in a plastic storage container. I suggest opting for the white finish, which is less likely to show stains and cleans up handily.

Best Retro Design: Russell Hobbs 4-Speed Retro Style Hand Mixer

Corded / Weight: 3.19 lbs. / Attachments: traditional beaters, two dough hooks and a whisk attachment / Storage container: no

Why we chose it: A good range of speeds and a variety of attachments make this retro design model suitable for lighter mixes.

Pros


  • Comfortable “soft touch” handle
  • Good selection of attachments
  • Appealing design and color, stable standing on its end

Cons


  • Some users found position of speed buttons awkward

This quirky, old-fashioned design is comfortable to grip and offers four speeds, plus a turbo boost. Outfitted with two traditional beaters, two dough hooks, and a whisk, the attachments are dishwasher safe and the cherry red color is certainly eye-catching. Better suited to quick, lighter mixes, it is surprisingly adept for most small tasks and comes with a two-year manufacturers warranty. At this price point, it is best suited for casual bakers looking for a basic hand mixer. 

Best User-Friendly Workhorse: Hamilton Beach Magnolia Bakery 5-Speed Hand Mixer

Corded / Weight: 2.98 lbs. / Attachments: Two traditional beaters and whisk / Storage container: yes

Why we chose it: This new kid on the hand-mixer block boasts a professional grade DC Motor, 5-speeds with a Quickburst option and Slow Start Technology, and is versatile, comfortable, and powerful. Bonus points for its pleasing shade of pastel green and comfortable handle. 

Pros


  • Professional grade DC Motor
  • Comfortable
  • Appealing design and color, stable standing on its end

Cons


  • Slight wobble on highest speed

Created in partnership with the iconic Magnolia Bakery, this hand mixer tackles a multitude of tasks with ease, thanks to its powerful DC (direct current) motor, offering 15 percent more torque (the force that causes an object to rotate) than traditional AC (alternating current) motors. Avid home bakers will appreciate this mixer’s power, making it suitable for thick batters and doughs, airy meringues, whipped cream and fluffy frostings. Despite its powerful inner workings, the mixer is surprisingly quiet and comfortable to maneuver. Testers appreciated a Slow Start that truly prevented ingredients from flying out of the bowl and the Quickburst option for powering through thick mixes. The lockable swivel cord makes this ideal for both right- and left-handed users. Not only is this sweet little mixer a workhorse, it comes in a pleasing shade of pastel green and keeps attachments and the mixer itself contained within a snap on plastic storage case.

Best Multitasker: Dualit Professional Chrome Hand Mixer

Corded | Speeds: 4 | Weight: 2.87 lbs. | Attachments: Balloon whisk, flat beaters, dough hooks

Why we chose it: Powerful, sleek, and versatile, this top-quality mixer handily accomplishes a multitude of tasks.

Pros


  • Heavy duty 300 watt motor/certified for commercial use
  • Retractable power cord
  • Flat beaters, dough hooks and balloon whisk provide versatility

Cons


  • Limited 1 year warranty
  • Slightly heavy (2.87 pounds)
  • No storage container

The powerful Dualit Professional is a sleek little number with four speeds and a 300-watt motor that means business. It’s comfortable to hold, if a little weighty, surprisingly quiet, and well-equipped to tackle numerous tasks. I’m a fan of the flat blade beaters even though they might be considered old school; they are up to most mixing, blending, and beating challenges. Bonus points for attachments, like a balloon whisk and pair of dough hooks, made of durable stainless steel. One of its most talked about features is the retractable power cord that stows away into the rear of the mixer (admittedly, not without a little bit of coaxing). The no-nonsense eject button releases attachments on cue and the flat back sits handily on the counter. A go-to appliance in many commercial kitchens, professionals claim the slightly higher price point is offset by the quality of the mixer. 

Features to Keep in Mind When Shopping for Hand Mixers

Speed and Power

Hand mixers are generally categorized by their speed options, some with as few as three and others boasting as many as nine. The majority of mixers are electric, weigh in at 4 pounds or less, and are compatible with any appropriately-sized bowl. The power range for good-quality hand mixers is between 200 and 250 watts. Optimally, a hand mixer will start running slowly—a gradual build-up that prevents ingredients from splattering out of the bowl—ultimately reaching a powerful high speed. 

Higher-end models comfortably cut through dense batters and bread doughs, but it’s important to remember that hand mixers are traditionally geared towards lighter, shorter tasks than those performed by a heavy-duty stand mixer. And before you whip yours out for the first time, always read the user manual. Every one is different, so it’s best to acquaint yourself with the particulars before diving in.

Attachments 

Hand mixers usually include two metal beater attachments. Some models offer whisk attachments, and others might include a pair of dough hooks. For those who enjoy frothy hot chocolate or Dalgona-style coffee, look for models that offer a blending rod. Depending on the manufacturer, some attachments can be purchased separately.  

Maintenance 

These small appliances are pretty low maintenance; since the attachments can be removed from the body, they allow for easy clean-up. While some parts are dishwasher safe, others require hand-washing. Additionally, a number of mixers are now equipped with a storage bin or sack that houses the mixer with the attachments.

Stand Mixers vs. Hand Mixers 

Consumers often assume that stand and hand mixers are interchangeable; they are not. Before purchasing, ask yourself how often you envision using a mixer and what kinds of batters you tend to favor. If you are a serious bread baker, cheesecake maker, or cookie pro who bakes several times a week, then a stand mixer might be better suited to your needs. For bakers looking to whip up the occasional batch of snickerdoodles, a tray of brownies, layer cake, or bowl of frosting, hand mixers are perfectly capable of performing these tasks. Additionally, hand mixers can work in tandem with stand mixers; for example, while a stand mixer is beating cake batter, a hand mixer can be used to mix up the frosting. 

Consider size and comfort, too: Unlike heavy stand mixers, which require prime kitchen counter real estate, hand mixers take up minimal space, are portable, and substantially lighter. If you plan to go handheld, it’s important to find a mixer that you can hold with a relaxed grip and that can work with either hand. The details will ultimately enhance your baking experience.

Corded vs. Cordless

Corded models tend to house stronger motors but will be tethered to an electrical outlet. Cordless mixers have their place, but will require advance thought because they need to be charged. Additionally, cordless mixers are easy to use whether you are right or left handed but are better suited to lighter mixes. 

Warranty 

Warranties vary depending on the manufacturer. It’s a good idea to see exactly what is covered by a warranty before making a purchase. Some warranties will cover damage and broken parts, others will replace a faulty mixer. 

Ask the Experts

Q: With what type of bowls can I use a hand mixer?

Stainless steel mixing bowls, glass bowls made from heat-resistant, tempered glass, and ceramic bowls are all suitable. Ceramic bowls, however, are prone to chipping and scratching and are better paired with a hand held mixer that uses rubberized beaters. Plastic bowls can be used in a pinch but tend to be too lightweight to handle mixing. Deeper bowls are preferred to prevent splashing. Remember to stabilize your bowl by setting it down on top of a slightly damp kitchen towel, increase speeds gradually, circle the bowl with the mixer, and take the time to turn off the mixer and scrape down the sides.

Q: Are hand mixers universal? 

Hand mixers vary by brand, so it is important to check the features/attachments before purchasing. Additionally, consider the type of tasks you are most likely drawn to—will you be using the mixer for whipping cream, egg whites, frostings, or are you looking for a portable mixer that can handle heavy doughs? 

Q: What is a good wattage for a hand mixer?

Hand mixers typically range on the low end from 200 to 250 watts of power. Those boasting 350 watts of power are nearly as powerful as some standing mixers.


Q: I’m baking A LOT of cookies. How long can a hand mixer work continuously? 

Remember to start at the lowest speed and work your way up. Continuous mixing time will depend on the power of your mixer and the weight of your dough. If at any time you feel that the body of the mixer is overheating (hot to the touch), or the mixer is struggling, turn it off and let it cool down before turning it back on. Generally speaking 2-minute intervals are a good rule of thumb, but always pay attention to how the machine is behaving. When in doubt, you are better off dividing big batches in half and running the mixer for less time than taking the risk of overheating.

Our Take

Capable of handling many tasks, hand mixers are often a less expensive option than a stand mixer and take up considerably less room. From whipping egg whites, heavy cream, glossy frostings, cookies, cakes, and bread doughs, hand-held mixers are available with various attachments and cover many price points. Comfortable to hold yet powerful, a hand-held mixer is a kitchen tool you will find yourself reaching for regularly.

The post Small but Mighty, The Best Hand Mixers Are More Powerful Than You Think appeared first on Saveur.

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Coming in Hot! The Best Cooling Racks Allow Your Baked Goods To Rest Easy https://www.saveur.com/shop/best-cooling-racks/ Thu, 17 Feb 2022 20:24:08 +0000 https://www.saveur.com/?p=129236
Best Cooling Racks
Courtesy of Food52.

No more soggy bottoms and—surprise—better bacon, too.

The post Coming in Hot! The Best Cooling Racks Allow Your Baked Goods To Rest Easy appeared first on Saveur.

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Best Cooling Racks
Courtesy of Food52.

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

Hot pans deserve a cool place to land, which is why a sturdy cooling rack should be an essential part of your kitchenware arsenal. Not only do the best cooling racks allow air to circulate on all sides of a pan or baked item, including the bottom, they also prevent foods from over-baking or accumulating condensation. In short, it is your first line of defense against overbaking and the dreaded soggy bottom. 

Not only do cooling racks provide a well-circulated surface for fresh-out-of-the-oven baked goods, they are also valuable kitchen tools when glazing, drizzling, or adding finishing touches to cakes and cookies. And did you know that a properly constructed, oven-safe rack can turn out beautiful strips of perfectly crisp bacon and serve as a handy roasting pan insert? 

Cooling racks are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and configurations. Some are meant for elaborate projects while others are best suited to small bakes and detailed tasks. Sure, in a pinch you can cobble together a makeshift cooling rack by turning a cupcake pan on its head, but you will find the purchase of one of these well-constructed cooling racks a worthy investment.

Our Top Picks 

Best Overall: Sur La Table Stainless Steel Cooling Grids

Size: Quarter sheet: 8-inch x 12-inch x 0.5-inch; Half sheet: 12-inch x 17-inch x 0.5-inch | Material: Thick gauge stainless steel wire | Weight: Half sheet size weighs 1.5 pounds

Pros


  • Tight grid pattern (½-inch space between grids) prevents food from falling through
  • Oven safe to 450 degrees Fahrenheit
  • Dishwasher safe

Cons


  • Higher price point than some other options
  • Sold singly
  • Half sheet size slightly unwieldy if turning out a single cake layer

Why we chose it: Excellent construction and two size options place these oven-safe and easy-to-clean racks at the head of the pack. 

Sur La Table delivers a heavy-duty, stainless steel rack capable of accommodating dozens of cookies as well as weightier bakes such as fresh fruit pies, multiple cake tiers, and pound cakes. On the savory side, it’s oven safe up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit, which makes this multi-tasker equally handy for oven roasting vegetables, or turning out perfectly cooked strips of bacon. For those who do a good bit of baking, selecting one of each size (the quarter sheet and the half sheet) should cover all of your needs.

Best Round: Nordic Ware Copper-Plated Cooling Racks

Size: 13-inch diameter x 1-inch height | Material: Copper-plated steel | Weight: 0.8 pounds

Pros


  • Sturdy and chip-, warp-, rust-proof
  • Round shape lends itself to cake layers and bundt cakes
  • Does double duty as a serving piece and stackable

Cons


  • Not safe in oven or dishwasher
  • 5 year warranty
  • Not suitable for sheet cakes

Why we chose it: Combining good looks and brawn, this pair of copper-plated steel cooling racks are capable of handling the heat and receive extra points for doubling as attractive serving pieces. 

Unlike most utilitarian cooling racks, Nordic Ware combines rust/chip/warp resistance with good looks. No need to relegate these to the kitchen; they’re pretty enough to be invited to the party. Well-sized for a variety of layer cakes, ideal for bundt cakes, and sturdy enough for weighty pies. These are not suitable for the oven or the dishwasher, but are well worth the splurge. 

Best Value/Set of Two: Checkered Chef Cooling Rack – Set of 2

Size:  11 ¾-inch x 17-inch | Material: Stainless steel | Weight: 1.54 pounds

Pros


  • Oven safe up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit
  • Resists rust
  • Easy clean-up
  • Center bar plus 3 crossbars enhance stability

Cons


  • Some users complain of the finish not being nonstick
  • Size makes it unwieldy to maneuver with small pan bakes
  • Discrepancy amongst reviews and manufacturer’s information on oven-safe temperature

Why we chose it: Testers applaud this rack made from sturdy 18/0 gauge stainless steel for its grid size, oven compatibility up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit, and no-fuss clean-up.

A rack that delivers on all counts, including strength, versatile grid size, oven-safe, and can be purchased as a set of two. The weight and size make this handy for all sorts of cooling, from generous pies and dozens of cookies to multiple layers of cake. On the savory side, these racks are ideal for oven-roasted bacon. A trip through the dishwasher takes care of clean-up. 

Best For Compact Kitchens: Anolon Advanced Nonstick Bakeware Cooling Grid

Size: 10-inch x 16-inch | Material: Steel | Weight: 1.1 pounds

Pros


  • Convenient size
  • Nonstick finish encourages easy clean up
  • Lifetime warranty

Cons


  • Not oven-safe
  • Best washed by hand

Why we chose it: While a touch smaller than other racks, there is still plenty of cooling room on this sturdy rack with a nonstick finish and well-spaced grids. 

Four legs keep things steady on the counter and a tight grid prevents smaller items from slipping through. When tasked with cooling heavier baked goods, this sturdy steel rack didn’t bend or budge. An excellent addition in kitchens with slightly smaller ovens or limited counter space, bakers appreciate the nonstick finish which easily releases sticky baked goods. Clean-up is fuss-free and the slightly smaller size makes storage easier in slim cabinets. Testers suggest buying two; a sturdier solution than a wobbly, tiered rack.

Best For Drying Iced Cookies: Le Creuset Nonstick Cooling Rack

Size: 16-inch x 11.5-inch x 2-inch | Material: Silicon-coated carbon steel

Pros


  • Nonstick finish makes clean-up a breeze
  • Ladder style is easy to wipe down
  • Limited lifetime warranty

Cons


  • Hand-wash
  • Not oven safe
  • Not well suited for tiny cookies

Why we chose it: For anyone who dabbles in cookie decorating on a regular basis, Le Creuset’s PFOA-free silicone coating over carbon steel makes cookie cool-down a breeze, offers an expansive space for decorated cookies to dry and cleans up without any fuss. 

A cooling rack can be a handy addition when decorating and drying iced cookies. In some cases, tiny cookies might slip through the vertical grids on this style of rack, but decorators found the well-made, ladder-style cooling rack a welcome accessory for medium to large cookies. Fits inside most rimmed half-sheet baking pans with a little wiggle room. Ample space for both cooling and drying, vertical bars (as opposed to tight grids) make it easy to clean stubborn drips of royal icing or chocolate. Le Creuset’s superior quality and Limited lifetime warranty make this an excellent gift for your favorite cookie artist. 

Best Expandable: Sur La Table Expandable Cooling Rack

Size: Expands from 13.75 inches to 35 inches wide | Material: Chrome-plated steel

Pros


  • Affords flexibility
  • Opens and closes easily
  • Easy to store

Cons


  • Not recommended for the oven
  • Hand-wash only

Why we chose it: 3-in-1 versatility, a unique cooling rack that is expandable, detachable, and collapsible, accommodating multi-sized tasks yet storing away easily.

A rack that expands from 13.75 inches to 35 inches wide will handily cool small batches or larger bakes. Small round buttons allow the individual racks to slide, easily separating or rejoining them as needed. Testers love the flexibility of having one, two, or three racks available, and when it’s not in use it can be stored horizontally or vertically. Unlike tiered cooling racks, testers far preferred this sturdy, expandable model citing the benefit of having a space saver both on the counter and when stored away.

How We Chose These Products

Products were tested by home bakers and professionals. Cooling racks were tested with two 8-inch layers of made-from-scratch chocolate layer cake, a dozen classic chocolate chip cookies, and, when designated as oven-safe, 12 ounces of medium-thick bacon cooked at 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Testers looked for stability, ease in use, clean-up, and storage.

Bronwen Wyatt, Chef/Owner of Bayou Saint Cake, opts for large, rectangular cooling racks with tightly spaced square grids when cooling her uniquely flavored King cakes and celebration cakes. “Cooling racks are great for cooling things quickly and evenly,“ she says. While there are many online and retail options, Bronwen turns to her local restaurant supply store in New Orleans.

Features to Keep in Mind

Types of Cooling Racks 

Cooling racks are typically made from stainless steel, aluminum, or chrome coated materials. Some are treated with nonstick finishes; nonstick may be easier to clean but the coating (polytetrafluoroethylene) breaks down over time and is susceptible to an oven’s heat, causing it to warp. Cooling racks can be square, rectangular, or circular, and will be supported by feet to raise the rack slightly off the countertop or the baking sheet it rests on.

Design 

The sturdiest cooling racks are made from heavy-gauge stainless steel. Lighter weight stainless steel is less stable and can struggle to support heavy baked goods without bending, such as double-crusted fruit pies and heavier cake layers.  Multiple shelves sound like a good idea, but are best suited to lightweight bakes such as cookies. Racks with diagonal shelves are the least stable. Stainless steel is durable and resistant to rust; avoid lightweight materials such as aluminum and anything coated in plastic that has a tendency to chip. If you plan to use your rack in the oven, make sure the rack is oven-use compatible and will fit inside an appropriately sized rimmed baking sheet and the oven itself. 

Sizes 

Are you a cookie, cake, or bread baker? Do you need the ample space afforded by a large rectangular rack (sheet cakes?) or something more compact for the occasional tray of cookies? A good rule of thumb when sizing up a cooling rack is to remember to measure the available counter space where you envision the rack will sit and also where it will be stored. Take into consideration the height of the rack, particularly if it will be in close proximity to counters or appliances. 

Grids

The size of the grid is important because the grid is actually responsible for air circulation, allowing air to flow through and around your baked goods. It also serves as a support for the rack. Grid-designed cooling racks have bars running both horizontally and vertically. Racks with bars running horizontally only are referred to as ladder-designed. The advantage to the grid design is that food is less likely to fall through the cracks and it will hold up to heavier dishes. Grid size varies; too close together means the rack may require a little more attention to keep it clean and farther apart means food may occasionally slip through.

Ask the Experts

Q: Are cooling racks important? 

Yes! Cooling racks facilitate the cooling process, preventing baked goods from continuing to cook in a pan or on a baking sheet once it has exited the oven. Cakes and cookies transferred to a cooling rack will maintain, if not improve, the quality of the baked goods. Baked goods left cooling in the pans they were baked in have a tendency to sweat, adding unwanted condensation, and will also over-cook due to residual heat left in the pan.

Q: Can cooling racks be used on the grill? 

Cooling racks for the grill should be fashioned out of the heaviest stainless steel. Nonstick and lightweight racks have no place on a grill. As opposed to cooling racks, grill racks are designed to withstand extreme heat and open flame cooking. Always check the manufacturer’s guidelines before using any cooling rack in a grill or oven setting.  

Q: Can I put a cooling rack in the oven?

Racks that have been treated with a nonstick finish should not be placed/used in an oven. An oven-safe rack can be used in an oven, but always check manufacturers’ recommendations first. Look for racks oven safe up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Also remember that a cooling rack that will be used in the oven needs to sit in a rimmed baking sheet; make sure your dimensions are in tandem with the size of your oven.

Q: How do I transfer cookies to a cooling rack?

Cookies can be transferred to a rack by carefully sliding the parchment paper with the cookies directly onto it, but it is best to use a spatula and carefully move the cookies individually. Baked goods should cool directly on an open rack, allowing air to fully circulate. Soft, chewy cookies might be impacted by condensation if left cooling on parchment. 

Q: How do I clean my cooling rack?

Use a rimmed baking sheet as a “bathtub” for the rack. Fill the baking sheet with hot, soapy water; use a grease-cutting dish soap such as Dawn Ultra Dishwashing (or for heavy grease, first spritz the rack lightly with Dawn Platinum Power Wash Dish Spray), then flip the cooling rack upside down and soak it briefly. Follow with a soft sponge and gently scrub the rack taking care to follow the direction of the grid’s wires; crosswise on top and lengthwise on the underside. Rinse before placing on a towel to catch the excess water, then dry thoroughly using a second towel. On the occasions when you are roasting/baking in the oven with something sticky, it’s a good idea to spritz the rack lightly before use with vegetable oil cooking spray.

Our Take

The best cooling racks are sturdy and will support a variety of baked goods. Consider what your needs are based on the baked goods you most frequently prepare. Nonstick racks have their place but should not be used in an oven. Smaller, tighter grids will discourage small items from slipping through the rack. Always measure your counter and storage space before purchase to make sure the rack will have ample space to land.

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