Issue 152 | Saveur

Grilled Romaine with Blue Cheese and Bacon

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:25:59 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Tyna Hoang. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Tyna Hoang

Fresh heads of romaine lettuce are split down the middle, grilled until charred and smoky, and then topped with blue cheese and bacon for this satisfying salad.

Featured in “California Eternal” by Georgia Freedman.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 30 minutes

6 bacon slices
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
5 heads romaine lettuce, halved lengthwise, rinsed, and dried
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 oz. blue cheese, crumbled

Instructions

Cook the bacon: To a large skillet over medium heat, add the bacon and cook, turning once, until it’s crisp and the fat is rendered, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate, reserving 2 tablespoons of the drippings, and allow to cool, then crumble and set aside.
Make the dressing: Transfer the reserved drippings to a medium bowl or liquid measuring cup and add the oil, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce. Whisk until smooth, then set aside.
Make the salad: Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. (Alternatively, heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high.) Working in batches if necessary, place the romaine halves cut-side down on the grill, and cook, turning once, until charred and slightly wilted, about 4 minutes.
Transfer the lettuce cut-side up to a platter and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Drizzle with the dressing, sprinkle with the blue cheese and crumbled bacon, and serve immediately.

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Mustikkakeitto (Finnish Blueberry Soup)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:24:29 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Sweet-tart blueberries make the base for this delicious fruit soup, a popular Scandinavian cold cure. This recipe first appeared in our November 2012 issue with the story “Feed a Fever,” and in our cookbook SAVEUR: Soups and Stews.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 30 minutes

6 cups blueberries, picked over and rinsed
¾ cup sugar
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 cinnamon stick
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
Pinch kosher salt
Whipped cream, for serving

Instructions

In a medium pot set over high heat, bring the blueberries and 3 cups of water to a boil. Turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the berries begin to burst, about 12 minutes.
Remove from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, transfer the berries to a fine-mesh sieve set over a medium bowl. Using a spoon, gently press the berries to extract their juices. Discard the berries and transfer the liquid back to the pot. Add the sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and cinnamon stick and bring to a boil over high heat.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and 2 tablespoons of water, then pour the mixture into the boiling liquid. Continue to boil, whisking continuously, until the soup is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon, 3–5 minutes.
Discard the cinnamon stick and add the salt. Serve hot, topped with whipped cream.

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Avgolemono

Diane Kochilas — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:37:29 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

There are iterations of egg- and lemon-based soups all over the world, but this classic avgolemono recipe belongs to the Mediterranean. This simple Greek soup of eggs, lemons, and chicken broth is adapted from chef Diane Kochilas’ The Country Cooking of Greece and can be made using orzo pasta instead of rice.

Yield: 8

Time: 35 minutes

8 cups chicken stock
1 cup long-grain white rice
4 large eggs
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Parsley leaves, for garnish

Instructions

In a medium pot set over high heat, bring the stock to a boil. Turn down the heat to medium and stir in the rice; partially cover the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes.
In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and lemon juice together until frothy. Whisk 1 cup of the simmering stock into the egg-lemon juice mixture, then whisk the egg-lemon juice-stock mixture back to the pot. Cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot continuously, until the broth thickens, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat,and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Ladle the avgolemono into wide bowls, garnish each serving with fresh parsley, and serve hot.

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Chocolate-Dipped Coconut Macaroons

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:51:47 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

These classic coconut macaroons dunked in melted chocolate are adapted from a recipe shared with us by the Munich bakery Rischart. Be sure to seek out unsweetened desiccated coconut, which is drier and more finely ground than “shredded” or “flaked” types. Tempering the chocolate is unnecessary when serving the macaroons straight from the fridge, but if you’re planning to give the cookies as a gift, you can find our step-by-step guide to tempering chocolate here.

Featured in: “Bavarian Dream.”

Yield: Makes 16 macaroons

Time: 45 minutes

½ cup sugar
¼ cup heavy cream
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
½ tsp. vanilla extract
½ tsp. kosher salt
2 large egg whites
1 large egg
2 cups unsweetened, desiccated coconut
4 oz. semisweet chocolate, melted

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, cream, melted butter, flour, vanilla, salt, egg whites, and egg until smooth; stir in the coconut. Transfer the batter to a piping bag fitted with a ¾-inch fluted tip and pipe sixteen 1½-inch wide mounds onto one of the lined baking sheets, spaced 2 inches apart. (Alternatively, the batter may be chilled in the fridge, then scooped into balls or shaped into pyramids.) Bake, rotating the pan once halfway through, until the macaroons are evenly golden brown, about 15 minutes. Set aside to cool completely to room temperature.
When the macaroons have cooled, dip the bottom of each cookie in the melted chocolate, then place them on the clean lined baking sheet. Transfer to the fridge to chill until the chocolate sets. Serve immediately or transfer to an airtight container and store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

NOTE: This recipe has been adjusted from the version that ran in the December 2012 print edition of SAVEUR. The yield has been decreased, and the quantity of flour has been increased.

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Clams in Sherry Sauce (Almejas a la Gaditana)

Alexander Lobrano — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:34:24 +0000

Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Olivia Mack McCool; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Food and travel writer Alexander Lobrano serves this classic Andalusian seafood dish with lots of crusty bread to soak up the piquant broth. For him it captured the enticements of the port city of Cadiz and the treasures to be found in its central Mercado Central de Abastos. This recipe first appeared in our December 2012 issue along with Alexander Lobrano’s story My Spanish Sanctuary.

Yield: serves 4-6

Time: 25 minutes

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 lb. small clams, such as littlenecks, scrubbed clean (about 3 dozen)
1 cup dry white wine
½ cups dry sherry
¼ cups finely chopped parsley
2 small red bird’s eye chiles, stemmed and finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Country bread, for serving

Instructions

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high. Add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until golden, about 2 minutes. Add the clams, wine, sherry, parsley, and chiles; season with salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil, and cook, covered, until the clams open, about 12 minutes. Uncover the pan and discard any clams that don’t open; taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Serve with slices of crunchy country bread on the side.

Our Best Clam Recipes to Get You Chowdering Down

Photography by Jenny Huang

There are so many ways to enjoy clams: steamed, fried, cooked into chowder or pasta, you name it >

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Congee

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:14 +0000

Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Rebecca Jurkevich; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

In her book, Essentials of Asian Cuisine: Fundamentals and Favorite Recipes, cookbook author Corinne Trang describes congee as a “way to stretch a meal in times of need.” Typically eaten for breakfast in China and other parts of Asia, this comforting recipe, which first appeared alongside Sushma Subramanian’s 2012 story “Feed a Fever,” is often mixed with meat, poultry, or seafood and gets a jolt of flavor from its garnish of scallions, chiles, and shallots.

The ease and affordability of this dish makes it a comforting sick-day staple.

Yield: serves 4

Time: 20 minutes

½ cups long-grain white rice
1 tsp. kosher salt
Chinese chile oil, crispy shallots (store-bought or homemade), red bird’s eye chiles, and thinly sliced scallions, for garnish

Instructions

In a sieve, rinse the rice under cold running water. Drain thoroughly, then transfer to a medium Dutch oven. Cover with 8 cups of cool water, sprinkle in the salt, then bring to a boil over high heat. Turn heat to medium-low, and cook, partially covered and stirring occasionally, until the rice takes on the consistency of porridge, about 1½ hours.
When ready to serve, divide the congee between 4 bowls and top each with the chile oil, crispy shallots, chiles, and scallions.

The Best Rice Cookers Are Worth the Counter Space

Photo Courtesy of Rens D/Unsplash

We tried them all, from simple, one-button rice cookers to the fancy models with all the bells and whistles.

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Sopa de Ajo (Castilian Garlic and Bread Soup)

José Andrés — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:44:56 +0000

Photography by Linda Pugliese; Food Styling by Jason Schreiber; Prop Styling by Elvis Maynard

Devised by Castilian shepherds seeking warmth on cold winter nights, sopa de ajo, or garlic soup, is said to awaken dulled senses. Touted as a hangover cure, this comforting and aromatic soup is adapted from one by Spanish chef José Andrés. For more ways to ward off the chill, check out our best soup recipes.

Featured in: “Feed a Fever.”

Yield: serves 4

1⁄4 cups extra-virgin olive oil
10 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
6 oz. country bread, torn into ½-inch pieces
1 tbsp. pimentón (smoked paprika)
1⁄2 cups dry white wine
4 cups chicken stock
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp. finely chopped Italian parsley leaves, for garnish

Instructions

To a medium pot over medium-high heat, add the oil; when hot, add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until golden, about 3 minutes. Add the bread and pimentón and cook, stirring occasionally, until the bread is slightly toasted, 4–6 minutes. Add the wine and cook until the liquid is completely absorbed by the bread, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a low boil. Slowly drizzle in the eggs while stirring constantly and cook until the egg is set and the bread is very soft, about 1 minute more. Season with salt and pepper, then ladle into 4 soup bowls, garnish with parsley, and serve.

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Bavaria-Style German Mustard

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:53:36 +0000

Todd Coleman

This coarse and lively mustard adds zing when eaten with rich German sausages; warm, yeasty pretzels; and, even, braised pork loin. This recipe is part of our December 2012 issue along with Todd Coleman’s story Bavarian Dream.

Todd Coleman

MAKES ABOUT 1 ½ CUPS

INGREDIENTS

1 small yellow onion, grated
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
6 tbsp. brown mustard seeds
6 tbsp. yellow mustard seeds
3 tbsp. ground mustard
1 tbsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. ground ginger
½ tsp. nutmeg
½ tsp. ground turmeric
¼ cup honey
¼ cup apple cider vinegar

INSTRUCTIONS

Mix all ingredients with ¼ cup water in a bowl; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Next day, transfer to a blender and puree until almost smooth; store refrigerated up to 3 months.

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Travel Guide: Great Restaurants in Mexico City

Betsy Andrews — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:08 +0000

Adam Wiseman

Azul Condesa (Nuevo Leon 68, Condesa; 52/55/5286-6380; azulcondesa.com)
The chef and author of the Diccionario Enciclopedico de Gastronomia Mexicana (Clio, 2000) Ricardo Muñoz Zurita serves flavorful, faithful renditions of Mexico’s regional specialties—Oaxacan black mole, Yucatecan pit-roasted pork, little Tabascan tamales made with the leafy green chaya—at this upscale-casual restaurant in the tony Condesa neighborhood.

Azul Historico (Isabel La Catolica 30, Centro Historico; 52/55/5510-1316; azulhistorico.com)
Ricardo Muñoz Zurita’s third location (the original, Azul y Oro, is on the campus of the Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico) is tucked into the airy courtyard of the Palacio de los Condes de Miravalle, a 17th-century edifice turned boutique hotel and chic mall, with artisan shops selling charcuterie, tableware, mezcal, books, and more. The menu is similar to the one at Azul Condesa, except here breakfast is served. A plate of with steak served beneath the century-old laurel trees is a great way to start off the day.

Dulce Patria (Anatole France 100, Col. Polanco, 52/55/3300-3999; lasalcobas.com)
At her restaurant inside the boutique hotel Las Alcobas, chef Martha Ortiz cooks updated Mexican cuisine in fanciful, architectural platings. A salad of baby arugula and cactus flower buds is draped in a purple-tinged violet brittle; a roast chile, sliced from the stem, is splayed like an octopus over sea bass.

El Bajio (Cuitlahuac 2709, Col. Azcapotzalco; 52/55/5341-9889; carnitaselbajio.com.mx)
The rootsy restaurant that the esteemed Carmen “Titita” Ramirez Degollado founded 40 years ago in the working-class barrio of Azcapotzalco is still going strong. Don’t miss the soulful mole de olla, juicy pork, zucchini, and corn on the cob doused in a sweet-hot guajillo chile broth.

Izote (Presidente Masaryk 513, Col. Polanco; 52/55/5280-1671; izote.com.mx)
Renowned chef Patricia Quintana serves gorgeous renditions of traditional Mexican classics, including walnut-sauced, pomegranate seed-strewn chiles en nogadas; tender lamb steamed in banana leaves; and squash blossom soup.

Maximo Bistrot Local (Tonala 133, Col. Roma; 52/55/5264-4291; maximobistrot.com.mx)
Chef Euardo Garcia cooked at Pujol, as well as Manhattan’s Le Bernardin, before opening his cozy Roma cafe, where locavore sourcing meets Spanish, French, and New American influences. The seasonal menu changes daily, with dishes like organic pork rib eye with porcini puree for autumn and grilled snook with artichokes and arugula for spring.

Nicos (Cuitlahuac 3102, Col. Claveria; 52/55/5396-7090; laboratoriocreativo.com.mx/port_web/n/home.html)
Chef Gerardo Vazquez Lugo oversees the kitchen at his family’s gracious 55-year-old institution serving excellent, traditional Mexican dishes, many from historical recipes, such as a rich noodle casserole, sopa seca de natas, from Guadalupe’s Capuchin nuns.

Paxia (Av. de la Paz 47, Col. San Angel; 52/55/5616-6964 and Juan Salvador Agraz 44; Col. Santa Fe, Cuajimalpa; 52/55/2591-0429; danielovadia.com.mx)
Daniel Ovadia likes big, bold flavors and presentations; at his two restaurants downtown and out in the high-rise suburb of Santa Fe, he offers fare such as maguey worms (the nutty-tasting grubs found in the agave plant) with a chile salsa, nopales, and smoked agave hearts or the relatively tame huitlacoche, sea urchin, shrimp, and fried garlic in chestnut cream.

Quintonil (Newton 55, Col. Polanco; 52/55/5280-2680; quintonil.com)
Using carefully sourced local ingredients, Pujol alumnus Jorge Vallejo cooks beautiful, modern Mexican dishes such as the bitter broccolini-like herb huauzontle with Chiapas cheese and a tomato and habanero salsa or Baja clams with a squid ink sauce and borage flowers.

Sud 777 (Boulevard de la Luz 777, Col. Jardines del Pedregal; sud777.com.mx)
At this trendy steakhouse and lounge, chef Edgar Nuñez Magaña serves squash blossom ravioli with a huitlacoche and truffle sauce, Wagyu from Mexico’s Rancho Las Luisas, and other contemporary, globally inspired dishes.

Back to the article Mexico City Star »

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Beef Brisket Picadillo-Stuffed Empanadas

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:59 +0000

Tender, braised beef brisket is combined with raisins, sherry, pine nuts, and spicy chile powder in the fragrant filling for sugar-dusted, savory-sweet empanadas. Get the recipe for Beef Brisket and Picadillo-Stuffed Empanadas ». Penny De Los Santos

Tender, braised beef brisket is combined with raisins, sherry, pine nuts, and spicy chile powder in the fragrant filling for these sugar-dusted, savory-sweet empanadas. This recipe first appeared in our December 2012 issue along with Georgia Freedman’s story California Eternal.

Yield: makes about 2 dozen

4 cups flour
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
¹⁄₂ cup olive oil
1 lb. beef brisket
5 cloves smashed
2 medium carrots, halved crosswise
2 large white onions, 1 quartered and 1 minced
3 tbsp. chile powder
1 ¹⁄₂ tbsp. finely chopped oregano leaves
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 cup raisins
¹⁄₂ cup sliced pitted canned black olives
¹⁄₂ cup dry sherry
¹⁄₄ cup sugar
¹⁄₄ cup pine nuts
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Canola oil, for frying

Instructions

Make the dough: Combine flour, butter, and salt in a large bowl, and using your fingers, rub butter into four until pea-size crumbles form. Add 1 1⁄2 cups warm water and stir until dough forms. Knead in the bowl until smooth, about 4 minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, heat 1⁄4 cup olive oil in a 6-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Season beef with salt and pepper, and add to pan; cook, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 8 minutes. Add garlic, carrots, quartered onion, and 6 cups water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until beef is very tender, about 2 1⁄2 hours.
Remove from heat, and let beef sit in saucepan until cool enough to handle, about 30 minutes. Transfer beef to a cutting board, and reserve 1 cup cooking liquid; discard remaining liquid and vegetables or reserve for another use. Shred meat into thin strands, and then finely chop; set aside.
Wipe the saucepan dry, then heat remaining olive oil over medium-high heat; add minced onion, and cook, stirring, until golden brown, about 12 minutes. Add chile powder, oregano, and cumin, and cook for 1 minute. Add reserved beef and cooking liquid along with raisins, olives, sherry, sugar, and pine nuts; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until raisins are plump and meat has absorbed most of the liquid, about 20 minutes; set aside to cool.
Divide dough into 24 balls, and place on a work surface; using a small rolling pin or the heel of your hand, flatten each ball into a 5″ disk, brush edges with water, and place 2 tbsp. filling in the center. Fold disks in half to form half-moons, and seal edges together using the tines of a fork. Refrigerate empanadas for at least 1 hour, or up to overnight.
Pour oil to a depth of 2″ in a 6-qt. saucepan, and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350°. Working in batches, fry empanadas until browned and crisp, about 6 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain before serving.

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Laugenbrezel (Traditional German Pretzels)

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:36:46 +0000

At the Hofbrauhaus beer hall in Munich, these giant pretzels, which have a similar chew to bagels, are served with soft butter. Get the recipe for Laugenbrezel (Traditional German Pretzels) ». Todd Coleman

At the Hofbrauhaus beer hall in Munich, these giant pretzels, which have a similar chew to bagels, are served with soft butter. This recipe first appeared in our December 2012 issue along with Todd Coleman’s story Bavarian Dream.

Yield: makes 2 Large Pretzels

1 ¹⁄₂ tbsp. barley malt syrup (available from Shop Organic)
1 (¼-oz.) package active dry yeast
3 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened, plus more for serving
4 cups flour, plus more for dusting
¹⁄₄ tsp. kosher salt
2 tbsp. baking soda
Coarse salt, for sprinkling

Instructions

Heat a baking stone in an oven to 500°. Stir together syrup, yeast, and 1½ cups warm water in a large bowl, and let sit until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add butter, flour, and salt, and stir until dough forms. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface, and knead until smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes. Halve dough, and working with one piece at a time, roll dough into a 4′ rope, about 1″ thick. Transfer rope to the bottom edge of a sheet of parchment paper, and keeping the center of the rope on the paper, pick up both ends, cross one end over the other, about 2″ from the ends, and twist; attach each end to the sides of the pretzel. Repeat with remaining dough, and set aside to rest for 20 minutes.
Bring baking soda and 1 cup water to a simmer in a 2-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring constantly until baking soda dissolves. Brush each pretzel generously with the baking soda solution, sprinkle with coarse salt, and using a sharp paring knife, make a 6″ slash, about ¼” deep across the bottom edge of the pretzel. Working one at a time, slide pretzel on parchment paper onto the stone; bake until dark brown, about 15 minutes. Repeat with remaining pretzel. Let cool for about 10 minutes; serve warm with butter.

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