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Marcella Hazan’s Braised Celery with Tomatoes

Marcella Hazan — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:37 +0000

Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

This sedano e pomodori brasati (braised celery and tomato) recipe, adapted from celebrated Italian cookbook author Marcella Hazan, produces results that are surprising from celery: creamy, sweet, luscious. The stalks’ stringy fibers, often removed before cooking, here act as a brace that helps the vegetable keep its shape through a long simmer.

Featured in “The Soft Approach: In Praise of Soft-Cooked Vegetables” by Lesley Porcelli.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours

3 oz. pancetta, cut into 1-in. pieces
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 bunches celery (about 2 lb.), stalks trimmed and cut on the bias into 2-in. pieces
¾ cup whole peeled canned tomatoes with their juices, crushed by hand
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large pot over medium-high heat, add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders, about 12 minutes. (If the pancetta begins to brown too fast, turn the heat to medium-low.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside to drain.
Return the pot to medium-high heat and add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and light brown, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, tomatoes, and ¼ cup of water and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cover the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the celery is very tender, about 1½ hours.
Transfer the celery with its juices to a serving bowl and sprinkle with the reserved pancetta. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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Strawberry Risotto

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:25 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This unusual, pastel-pink strawberry risotto recipe is a great way to use up those out-of-season (or past-their-prime) berries kicking around your fruit drawer. The dish was a popular menu item at Italian restaurants in the 80s—and we’re all for its comeback.

Featured in “Can This Berry Be Saved?” by Warren Schultz.

Yield: 4

Time: 35 minutes

3 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 cup strawberries, washed and hulled
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup arborio rice
¼ cup dry white wine
¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small pot, bring the stock to a boil, then add the berries and boil for 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a food processor or blender and purée; set aside. Turn off the heat.
To a large pot set over medium-low heat, add the butter. When it’s melted, add the rice and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until absorbed, about 4 minutes. Add ½ cup of the reserved stock and cook until absorbed, then continue with the remaining stock. (The total cook time should be about 25 minutes.)
Remove from the heat and stir in the purée and Parmigiano, then season with salt and black pepper to taste and serve immediately.

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Vichyssoise

Louis Diat — Thu, 15 Dec 2005 10:00:00 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

Credited with the invention of this famous chilled potato leek soup, Chef Louis Diat of New York City’s original Ritz-Carlton Hotel once prepared eight portions of the dish to be delivered to the Manhattan townhouse of Sara Delano Roosevelt, Franklin D.’s mother—and enclosed this vichyssoise recipe. The best potatoes to use for something like vichyssoise are low-starch varieties, such as Yukon Golds, which will retain their creamy flavor and velvety texture even after a long cooking and double-straining process.

Yield: 8

Time: 3 hours 40 minutes

4 Tbsp. (2 oz.) unsalted butter
4 leeks, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
5 medium potatoes (about 2¼ lbs.), peeled and thinly sliced
Kosher salt
2 cups whole milk
2 cups light cream
1 cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives

Instructions

In a large pot over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add the leeks and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft but not browned, about 20 minutes. Add the potatoes, 4 cups water, and salt to taste, and turn up the heat to high to bring it to a boil. Turn down the heat to medium-low, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are soft, 50–60 minutes.
Set a fine sieve over a medium bowl and strain the soup, pressing and scraping the solids with a spoon. Wipe the pot clean and return the strained soup to it. Whisk in the milk and light cream, bring the soup to a boil over high heat, then remove from heat and let cool.
Set the sieve over a medium bowl and strain the soup again, pressing and scraping with the spoon. Discard any solids that remain in the sieve. Stir the heavy cream into soup, then cover and refrigerate until chilled, for at least 2 and up to 24 hours. Season soup with salt to taste just before serving.
To serve, divide the vichyssoise among soup bowls and garnish with chives.

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Manhattan Clam Chowder

Hugh Merwin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:44 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

Meaty topneck clams are the briny backbone of this two-part chowder writer Hugh Merwin developed after searching Long Island, New York for the perfect clam chowder. The two essential parts of this are first, a flavor base made from the clams, gently cooked over a long simmer to form a potent flavor base that only gets better as it ages, then second, a soup enriched with just-melted bacon fat. For best results, age the base of this soup overnight, or store in the freezer for up to one month, for the flavors to fully develop. Freezing the clams overnight makes them easier to shuck before cooking.

This recipe ran alongside the 2015 article, “In Search for the Perfect Clam Chowder.”

Yield: 8-10

Time: 5 hours

2¾ lb. large topneck or cherrystone clams (about 3 dozen), frozen overnight
4 oz. salt pork, cut into ¼-in. cubes
2 bay leaves
2 medium white onions, finely chopped, divided
2 cups bottled clam juice
One 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed by hand
2¼ lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-in. cubes
4 oz. slab or thick-cut bacon, cut into ¼-in. lardons
6 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled
1 Tbsp. finely chopped thyme
1 tsp. finely chopped marjoram
Freshly ground black pepper
Oyster crackers, for serving

Instructions

The day before you plan to serve the chowder, in a large colander, rinse the frozen clams with warm water for 30 seconds. Working quickly while they’re still frozen, shuck the clams, discarding their shells, and coarsely chop the meat by hand. Set aside.
In a large pot set over medium-low heat, cook the salt pork, stirring occasionally, until its fat renders, about 12 minutes. Add the bay leaves and half the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 10–12 minutes. Pour the clam juice, tomatoes, and chopped clams into the pot and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the soup is reduced by a third, about 1 hour. Stir in the potatoes and cook until they are fork-tender, about 12 minutes. Remove the pot from heat and let the soup cool to room temperature. Discard the bay leaves and refrigerate the chowder for at least 2 or up to 12 hours, or freeze for up to one month.
When ready to serve, bring the soup base to room temperature. In a large pot over medium heat, cook the bacon, stirring occasionally, until its fat renders, about 6 minutes. Add the remaining onions, along with the celery and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened, 10–12 minutes. Pour the soup base into the pot, add the thyme and marjoram, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the soup is warmed through, about 30 minutes. Remove the chowder from the heat and season to taste with black pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve with oyster crackers.

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Chicken and Rice Vermicelli Soup

Corinne Trang — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:36:49 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

The delicacy of the ingredients in this Cantonese-style chicken and rice vermicelli soup belies the richness of the finished broth, perfect for staving off a winter chill. The level of spice in this warming Cantonese-style recipe, from cookbook author Corinne Trang, can be controlled by increasing (or omitting altogether) the fresh red hot chiles. Find more of our favorite Chinese recipes here.

Yield: serves 4

Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

Chicken and Rice Vermicelli Soup

8 oz. mi fen (dried rice vermicelli)
¼ cup medium dried shrimp
4 large dried shiitake mushrooms
¼ cup vegetable oil
4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
8 cup chicken stock
5 scallions, white parts only; 3 crushed, 2 thinly cut on the bias
2 thin slices peeled fresh ginger
Kosher salt
1 skinless boneless chicken breast, very thinly cut on the bias
4 head baby bok choy, trimmed, leaves separated
½ cup cilantro leaves
2 red bird’s eye chiles, thinly sliced on the bias

Instructions

In three separate bowls of hot water, soak the noodles, dried shrimp, and mushrooms until each has softened, about 20 minutes. Drain the shrimp, discarding their soaking liquid, and set aside. Use a slotted spoon to remove the mushrooms (save their soaking liquid for another use), and squeeze them to extract any excess water. Trim and discard the mushroom stems; julienne their caps, and set aside.
In a small pot over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, just until golden, 2–3 minutes. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and pour the garlic oil into a small, heatproof serving bowl.
To a large pot, add the rehydrated shrimp, julienned mushrooms, stock, crushed scallions, and ginger. Season lightly with salt, then bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to medium-low and continue to cook at a simmer until the aromatics are softened and the broth is rich and flavorful, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring a second large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Drain the vermicelli, add it to the boiling water, and cook for 5 seconds; remove the noodles with a spider skimmer or long-handled sieve and divide among 4 large soup bowls. Add the sliced chicken to the boiling water, cook for 10 seconds, remove with the sieve, and divide among the bowls. Add the bok choy to the pot and blanch until just tender, 1–2 minutes. Remove the bok choy and arrange on top of the chicken. Ladle about 2 cups of the broth into each bowl, then garnish each serving with sliced scallions, cilantro, and chiles. Drizzle with the garlic oil just before serving.

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Duck and Andouille Gumbo

Justin Devillier — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:34:18 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

For his take on Cajun gumbo, chef Justin Devillier of La Petite Grocery in New Orleans uses rendered duck fat in the roux instead of butter and quartered ducks in lieu of the classic chicken. In this duck and andouille gumbo recipe, we’ve called for only duck legs, which stay tender during a low-and-slow cooking process and won’t run the risk of drying out like breast meat.

Featured in: “The Hunter’s Way to Cook a Louisiana Thanksgiving.”

Yield: 8-10

Time: 5 hours

8 duck legs (about 6 lb.), fat trimmed, thighs and drumsticks separated
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
12 thyme sprigs
1 fresh sage sprig
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. (5 oz.) all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. hot sauce
2 Tbsp. sweet paprika
1 Tbsp. cayenne pepper
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 lb. andouille sausage, cut crosswise into ¼-in.-thick coins
1 lb. okra, cut crosswise into ⅓-in.-thick coins
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cooked white rice, for serving

Instructions

In a large skillet, place the duck thighs skin side down in a single layer, then place the skillet over medium heat. Cook until the thighs are deep golden brown on one side, about 40 minutes. Flip the thighs and continue cooking until browned on the opposite side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer the thighs to a plate, then add the drumsticks to the skillet, skin side down, and cook until deep golden brown on one side, about 20 minutes. Flip the drumsticks and continue cooking until browned on the other side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer the drumsticks to the plate with the thighs and pour the rendered fat from the skillet into a heatproof measuring cup. Set 1 cup of the fat aside, and save the remainder for another use. (Duck fat keeps very well in the freezer for up to 3 months.)
Return the skillet to medium heat, add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet, until the onions are soft and just beginning to brown, 6–10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
Make a bouquet garni: in a large square of cheesecloth, bundle together the thyme and sage sprigs; tie with kitchen twine to close, and set aside.
In a large pot, heat the cup of reserved duck fat over medium-low. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring continuously, until the roux turns dark brown, 30–40 minutes. Scrape the cooled onion-garlic mixture into the roux, then stir in the hot sauce, paprika, cayenne, and Worcestershire. Add the reserved duck pieces and herb bouquet to the pot, followed by the andouille, okra, and 10 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the duck meat is falling off the bone, about 2 hours.
Season the gumbo with salt and black pepper to taste, ladle into wide bowls, and serve hot with rice.

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Vegetarian Borscht

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:23:07 +0000

Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Christine Albano • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Photo: Belle Morizio • Food Styling: Christine Albano • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart

The best vegetarian borscht recipes are as closely guarded as state secrets. This chunky, beet-based soup, common in countries throughout Eastern Europe, is adapted from a version recorded by the late spy Markus Wolf, better known as the “man without a face.”

Yield: serves 8–10

Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

¼ cup vegetable oil
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely grated
2 large beets, peeled and coarsely grated
4 cup shredded white cabbage
2 medium russet potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. white-wine vinegar
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill, divided
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley, divided
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅔ cup sour cream
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Instructions

In a large pot, heat the oil over low heat. Add the onion, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until just translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the carrots, beets, and cabbage, cover, and cook until tender, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, to a second large pot, add the potatoes and 8 cups of salted water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat but do not drain.
Add the tomato paste, sugar, and vinegar to the vegetables and cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes. Add the potatoes and their cooking water; continue cooking for 10 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons each of dill, parsley, and chives, and season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Serve in bowls, either hot or chilled, and top with sour cream, garlic, and the remaining herbs.

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Blanquette de Veau

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:09 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

This classic French dish of delicate veal, cream, carrots, mushrooms, and butter (and more butter) does in many ways feel like a blanketed dish—in which nothing is cooked to the point of browning, but rather velveted in a warm and comforting white sauce. Blanquette de veau consistently ranks in the top ten when the French are surveyed about their favorite dishes. Find more of our favorite classic French recipes here.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 3 hours

5–6 parsley sprigs
3 thyme sprigs
1 tsp. coriander seeds
2 garlic cloves
5 black peppercorns
2 whole cloves
1 bay leaf
3 lb. boneless veal shoulder, cut into 1-in. chunks
16 baby carrots, peeled
10 oz. pearl onions, peeled
2 small fennel bulbs, each cut into 8 wedges
10 oz. button mushrooms, quartered
5 celery stalks, cut into 1-in. pieces
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. all-purpose flour
2 cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
Cayenne pepper
Cooked white rice, for serving
⅓ cup crème fraîche
Parsley leaves, to garnish

Instructions

Make a bouquet garni: In a large square of cheesecloth, bundle the parsley, thyme, coriander, garlic, black peppercorns, cloves, and bay leaf; tie with kitchen twine to close, and set aside.
In a large pot set over high heat, bring the veal, bouquet garni, and 10 cups water to a boil; turn down the heat to medium-low, and cook, occasionally and skimming any impurities that rise to the surface, for 30 minutes. Add the carrots, onions, and fennel, and cook for 30 minutes. Add the mushrooms and celery, and cook until the veal is very tender and vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the veal and vegetables to a large bowl; cover and keep warm.
Set a fine sieve over a large bowl, and strain the veal. Measure 4 cups of the cooking liquid into a small pot, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 30 minutes. (Reserve the remaining veal broth for another use.)
Wipe the large pot clean and return it to the stove over medium heat; add the butter and once it has melted, whisk in the flour, and cook, stirring, to make a smooth, white roux, 3–5 minutes. Add the reduced stock and the cream, and bring to a boil; cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce is thickened and slightly reduced, about 15 minutes.
Return the veal and vegetables to the sauce, and cook until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice, salt, white pepper, and cayenne; divide the blanquette de veau among bowls of white rice. Drizzle each serving with crème fraîche and garnish with parsley leaves before serving.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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Noodles and Gravy

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:36 +0000

This Iowa-style noodles dish is a carb-lovers paradise: Creamy mashed potatoes, tender hand-made noodles, warm brown gravy. Get the recipe for Noodles and Gravy ». Matt Taylor-Gross

Starch overload? Maybe. But in Iowa, these homemade noodles and gravy, ladled over mashed potatoes, are just one more holiday tradition. Author Frances Anderson‘s mother-in-law, Phyllis, has been perfecting the dish for nearly thirty years. She made her best discovery by accident, trying to keep her son, Mike, from sneaking the raw dough from her cutting board. “If I left the dough to dry, like most cooks do, I would’ve needed a double batch,” Phyllis told us. “Throwing them right into the simmering stock, while the noodles are still covered in a light dusting of flour, makes the gravy extra thick.”

Yield: serves 8

Time: 30 minutes

2 large eggs
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
4 cups of simmering chicken or turkey stock
Mashed potatoes, for serving

Instructions

Beat together eggs and salt in a medium bowl. Beat in 1 cup of the flour, then roll out dough on a work surface dusted with remaining flour, folding and rolling until most of the flour has been incorporated and dough is very thin.
Cut into 3″ wide strips, stack strips, then cut into 1⁄16″ wide noodles. Toss noodles in flour, then cook in simmering stock in a large covered pan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 15 minutes. Ladle the noodles and gravy over mashed potatoes and serve hot.

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Carter Rochelle’s Texas Chili

Carter Rochelle — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:38:48 +0000

Photography by Christopher Testani

Beef suet and masa give this Lone Star chili (no beans, no tomatoes) its distinctive flavor. The recipe comes from Carter Rochelle, a native Houstonian and chili connoisseur. Find all of our best chili recipes here.

Featured in: “Our Best Recipes of All Time.”

Equipment

Yield: serves 6

Time: 4 hours 30 minutes

6 oz. beef suet, coarsely chopped
3 lb. trimmed beef chuck, cut into ½-in. pieces
6 tbsp. chili powder
4 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup masa harina
4 cups beef stock or low-sodium beef broth, warm
3 tbsp. white vinegar
Cayenne pepper
Chopped cilantro, for garnish
Tabasco, for serving
Thinly sliced scallions, for garnish
Tabasco, for serving
Saltines, for serving
Sour cream, for serving

Instructions

In a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, melt the suet, stirring frequently, 8–9 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to discard any solids. Working in batches if necessary, add the chuck and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned all over, 8–10 minutes. Turn the heat to medium and stir in the chili powder, garlic, and salt and black pepper to taste. Add the masa harina and stir to coat, then gradually pour in the broth, vinegar, and 4 cups of water. Turn the heat to medium-low and cook, partially covered and stirring occasionally, until the meat begins to fall apart, about 4 hours, adding water as needed to prevent sticking. Season with additional salt, black pepper, and cayenne to taste.
To serve, ladle the chili into bowls and garnish with the cilantro and scallions. Accompany with Tabasco, saltines, and sour cream.

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In the Absence of Key Ingredients, This Iconic Island Recipe Still Shines

Vaughn Stafford Gray — Sat, 27 Nov 2021 02:28:18 +0000

Photography: Linda Pugliese; Food Stylist: Mariana Velasquez; Prop Stylist: Elvis Maynard

For a country with the most Christian churches per square mile, it may seem surprising that Jamaicans also treat jerk as something of a religion. With each bite of chicken, pork, and in some parishes, goat, you’re connected with something far bigger than the dish itself and reminded of an important part of the island nation’s history. Jerk is peppered with symbolism and each juicy morsel reminds us of the sacrifices that paid for our freedom. It reminds us that the Maroons—West Africans who successfully escaped enslavement and lived in the island’s mountainous regions for decades—sustained themselves with slow-smoked wild boar encrusted in foraged indigenous spices. And this cooking process the Maroons invented is, of course, jerk.

Much like the rivalry among American Barbecue pitmasters, there is rivalry in the jerk world too, particularly in Jamaica. Some Jamaican parishes, such as Portland, are especially renowned for their jerk due to their artful spice blends and their use of traditional grilling methods. Fun fact: The most traditional jerk recipes include pepper elder leaves, a medicinal plant the Maroons used to treat upset stomach. Today, Jamaican jerk doesn’t use pepper elder as much. However, there’s another essential ingredient on which every jerk master depends: pimento. Also known as allspice, the native tree’s berries, leaves, and wood are all foundational to the flavor of this revered national dish.

For decades, due to regulations imposed by both the U.S. and Jamaican governments, pimento wood was unavailable in the States. This was part of a decades-long effort to safeguard the plant’s existence in Jamaica, where it is integral to the nation’s culinary identity. In 2008, Gary Feblowitz and Jodi Schoenauer, co-founders of pimentowood.com, became the “only approved U.S. importer of Jamaican-sourced pimento wood, leaves, and charcoal.” However, this year, one of the Jamaican government’s greatest fears came to fruition when the wood of the pimento tree was added to the international endangered species list and embargo was reinstated on the ingredient’s export. So how is a homesick Jamaican expat supposed to make jerk?

We Jamaicans living abroad have developed hacks for recreating this important taste of home. While these shortcuts may get a side-eye from people back on the island, privileged to have quality jerk within reach, they are a balm for the diaspora. My own recipe takes the core of the chemistry and technique on which jerk is based to create a moreish dish that is a meal, an antidote, and a connection.

I grew up in Jamaica’s capital, Kingston, and when I moved to Toronto for culinary school in 2005, I quickly learned how to make do and create dishes as close as possible to the jerk I missed. Luckily, I was not alone. Jamaican chefs the world over have a ton of time-tested and approved hacks for making jerk without pimento leaves and wood. Some include premade jerk marinades and seasonings; others include slow cooking first, then finishing on a grill. I’ve tried many methods. However, in my estimation, the one that works best (which my father, who hails from Portland—Jamaica’s jerk capital—enjoys eating) involves using a slow cooker or Instant Pot, both wet and dry jerk seasonings, and a couple drops of liquid smoke to approximate the flavor gained by the trademark slow-smoking process.

I prefer to use the mild version of Walkerswood Traditional Jerk Seasoning paste, (which is far from mild); it’s delicious and redolent with Jamaican pimento berries. I also like to add a scoop of Grace Jamaican Dried Jerk Seasoning. Both brands are widely available in the U.S. Please, do not use jerk products that aren’t made by a Jamaican company. It’s not just about appropriation, but also, many don’t use crucial ingredients, such as Scotch bonnet peppers and pimento berries, and taste more or less like sadness and the rubber atop a No. 2 pencil. I have spoken.

I like to use chicken wings for my recipe, though thighs and drumsticks work well, too. Don’t yield to the temptation to add salt; both the wet and dry seasonings contain plenty. Massage the ingredients into the meat and let it marinate for an hour or so. The slow cooker eliminates the need for lengthy overnight marination.

Once you’re ready, transfer the wings to the cooker and let them do their thing on low heat for a few hours. The cook time will vary a bit depending on the size of your wings and the make and model of your slow cooker, so keep an eye on them. You want the meat to be juicy but not quite falling off the bone.

After the wings are cooked, I like to transfer them to a hot grill or pop them under the broiler to char. This is the key to nailing jerk chicken’s trademark crispy bits, a hallmark of the best-executed versions of the dish, like barbecue brisket’s crispy burnt ends. Over the summer, my Jamaican friend in Houston, whose mom is a chef, showed me another hack his mom uses: finishing the slow-cooked jerk chicken in an air fryer. I was dubious, but it worked!

In 2018, when the James Beard Foundation launched its Savo r ing Jamaica dinner series, the organizers called on Kingston chef and revered barbecue and grilling master Gariel Ferguson to participate. Jerk and barbecue share many similarities; in the same way pitmasters strive to be the best at their craft, Jamaican-born chefs spend years mastering their own jerk recipes. This is not done out of duty, but rather out of regional and national pride. As one of the island’s oldest and most important aspects of its culinary heritage, jerk is something its people fervently protect.

When I asked Ferguson to explain why the technique is significant to our people, his response was straightforward. “Jerk is freedom manifested in food.”

Recipes

Jerk Chicken Wings

Photography: Linda Pugliese; Food Stylist: Mariana Velasquez; Prop Stylist: Elvis Maynard

Get the recipe >

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