Braise | Saveur

Marcella Hazan’s Braised Celery with Tomatoes

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:37 +0000

Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

This sedano e pomodori brasati (braised celery and tomato) recipe, adapted from celebrated Italian cookbook author Marcella Hazan, produces results that are surprising from celery: creamy, sweet, luscious. The stalks’ stringy fibers, often removed before cooking, here act as a brace that helps the vegetable keep its shape through a long simmer.

Featured in “The Soft Approach: In Praise of Soft-Cooked Vegetables” by Lesley Porcelli.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours

3 oz. pancetta, cut into 1-in. pieces
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 bunches celery (about 2 lb.), stalks trimmed and cut on the bias into 2-in. pieces
¾ cup whole peeled canned tomatoes with their juices, crushed by hand
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large pot over medium-high heat, add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders, about 12 minutes. (If the pancetta begins to brown too fast, turn the heat to medium-low.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside to drain.
Return the pot to medium-high heat and add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and light brown, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, tomatoes, and ¼ cup of water and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cover the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the celery is very tender, about 1½ hours.
Transfer the celery with its juices to a serving bowl and sprinkle with the reserved pancetta. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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Basque Oxtail Stew

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:05 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Centuries of Basque immigrant culture are distilled into a meal at Bakersfield, California’s Wool Growers restaurant, where lunch is a parade of rib-sticking French Basque dishes. First, vegetable soup chock-full of cabbage and leeks; stewed pinto beans; a tomatoey “hot sauce.” Then marinated tomatoes, mixed greens, and a creamy slab of blue cheese. Finally, meat: tender beef tongue in a parsley-packed vinaigrette, or this oxtail stew loaded with sweet carrots and thickened with beurre manié, a mixture of softened butter and flour. Solid, satisfying, lovable: it’s just how we want this old-world cuisine to be.

Featured in the January/February 2014 issue.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Tri-ply Stainless Steel 8-Quart Stock Pot here.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 4 hours

4 lb. oxtails, trimmed of excess fat
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 cups dry red wine
6 cups chicken stock
One 8-oz. can tomato sauce
6 medium carrots, cut into ½-in. pieces
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
¼ cup all-purpose flour

Instructions

Season the oxtails to taste with salt and black pepper. In a large pot over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it’s hot and shimmering. Working in batches, add the oxtails and cook, turning occasionally, until browned, 8–10 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the oxtails to a plate and set aside.
Add the garlic and onion to the pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, 6–8 minutes. Add the wine and continue cooking, stirring and scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pot, until reduced by a third, 3–5 minutes.
Return the oxtails to the pot, add the stock and tomato sauce, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low, cover the pot, and simmer until the oxtails are tender, 2½–3 hours.
Uncover the pot and return to a simmer. Add the carrots and cook until tender, 15–20 minutes.
To a small bowl, add the butter and flour. Using your fingers or a fork, knead or mash the mixture until the flour is fully incorporated and a smooth paste forms. Stir the paste into the stew and cook until slightly thick, 8–10 minutes.

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Classic Beef Brisket

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:37:25 +0000

Take note: This recipe comes from the author’s Grandma Lil, who insisted that the brisket tasted better the day after it was cooked. Maura McEvoy

“I remember being really happy the day Melissa Hamilton (SAVEUR’s former food editor), and Julia Lee (then test-kitchen director) were making my grandmother’s brisket in the test kitchen,” says former SAVEUR staffer Kelly Alexander. “The whole staff loved it and chowed down. I was hoping for leftovers, but there were none.” The resulting recipe, and Alexander’s feature about the iconic braise that helped define her identity as a Southern Jew, appeared in our April 2004 issue. And though her grandmother Lil passed away four years later, the brisket lives on. “Every year on Jewish holidays I still get emails from SAVEUR subscribers about how it’s become a family staple for them too,” says Alexander, now a food anthropologist. “When people make this recipe, they pay my mema the best kind of respect.”

Yield: serves 6-8

Time: 4 hours 45 minutes

2 tsp. dried oregano
1 Tbsp. sweet paprika
1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 5-lb. beef brisket, preferably a flat cut, trimmed of any large pieces of fat
3 Tbsp. vegetable oil
3 ¹⁄₂ cups low-sodium chicken stock
1 14 ½-oz. can diced tomatoes
2 bay leaves
3 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
3 medium garlic cloves, minced (about 1 Tbsp.)

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the oregano, paprika, pepper, and salt, then rub all over the brisket.
In a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers, then add the brisket and sear until browned on both sides, about 10 minutes per side. Remove from the pot and set aside.
Pour off and discard the rendered fat from the pot, then return the pot to medium-high heat and add the stock, tomatoes, and bay leaves. Bring to a simmer, using a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits stuck to the bottom. Add the brisket and its accumulated juices, and scatter the onions and garlic atop the meat. Cover the pot, transfer to the oven, and cook for 1 hour. Remove the lid and continue cooking until the onions begin to melt, about 1 hour more. Push some of the onions and garlic into the braising liquid surrounding the brisket. Cover the pot again, and continue cooking until the meat is very tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, about 2 hours more.
Transfer the meat to a cutting board and loosely tent with foil. The onions and garlic that remain in the pot should be very soft, and the braising juices rich and saucy. If the juices are watery, return the pot to the stovetop and simmer over medium heat until the juices thicken, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper.
To serve, slice the brisket against the grain, transfer to a serving platter, and spoon the vegetables and sauce on top.

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Mapo Tofu

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:27 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

One of Sichuan cuisine’s best-known dishes, mapo tofu is a comforting, tongue-tingling braise showcasing many ingredients which form the bedrock of the regional cooking style. Doubanjiang, a dark red fermented paste of erjingtiao chiles and broad beans, brings deep umaminess and heat, while douchi, fermented black soybeans, penetrate the tofu with briny, pungent flavor. Red chiles and Sichuan pepper mingle to create the fiery, mouth-numbing flavor profile known in Chinese as mala.

Featured in “Capital of Heat,” by Matt Gross.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Nitri-Black Carbon Steel 14-Inch Wok here.

Yield: 4

Time: 40 minutes

¼ cup cornstarch
One 14-oz. package silken tofu, drained and cut into 1-in. cubes
Kosher salt
½ cup hong you (Sichuan red chile oil), or substitute store-bought
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
6 oz. ground pork or beef
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. doubanjiang (Chinese red chile bean paste)
1 Tbsp. douchi (Chinese fermented black soybeans)
4 Chinese chives (blossoms discarded), or scallions, thinly sliced, plus more for garnish
1 xiao mi la or red Thai chile, finely chopped
1¼ cups chicken stock
1 Tbsp. light soy sauce
1 Tbsp. sugar
¼ tsp. ground Sichuan pepper
Steamed rice, for serving

Instructions

In a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch with ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of water until dissolved. Set aside.
To a bowl, add the tofu and 3 cups of boiling salted water and soak for 15 minutes. Drain, then set aside on a paper towel-lined plate.
To a large flat-bottomed wok or skillet, add the hong you and turn the heat to medium-high. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the pork and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat, until browned, 4–6 minutes. Add the doubanjiang, douchi, chives, and xiao mi la and cook, stirring frequently, until the chives are wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and reserved tofu and bring to a boil, stirring gently (don’t break up the tofu). Add the soy sauce and sugar and continue to boil until the sugar is dissolved, about 1 minute. While swirling the pan, slowly add the reserved cornstarch mixture and cook until the sauce has thickened, about 2 minutes more. Sprinkle with the Sichuan pepper and more chives. Serve with rice.

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Rotkohl (Braised Red Cabbage with Bacon)

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:22:23 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Ursula Heinzelmann, author of our December 2007 feature story, “A Night in Berlin,” prepared this sweet-tart side dish as part of a holiday feast among family and friends. Rotkohl is a traditional accompaniment to venison, but it shines brightly alongside any hearty fall or winter braise. The secret to preserving the red cabbage’s deep purple hue is in keeping the pot covered while it cooks.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Voyage Series cast iron braiser here.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 1 hour 50 minutes

6 slices bacon, coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped
⅓ cup Port wine
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 large head red cabbage (about 3 lb.), cored and thinly sliced
2 cups chicken stock
¼ cup red currant jelly

Instructions

To a large, wide pot, add the bacon, set over medium high-heat, and cook, stirring frequently, until the fat has rendered and the bacon is just beginning to crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the sugar and continue cooking, stirring continuously, until the sugar has liquified, about 30 seconds. Stir in the onions, season lightly with salt and black pepper, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden and soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in the apple, turn the heat down to medium-low, cover, and cook until the apple is tender, 6–8 minutes.
Uncover the pot, stir in the Port, vinegar, and cabbage, then cover and cook until the cabbage is bright purple and slightly wilted, 5–7 minutes. Stir in the stock, season lightly with salt and black pepper, then turn the heat up to medium-high. Bring to a boil, turn the heat down to simmer, cover, and cook until the cabbage is tender but still bright purple, about 1¼ hours.
Uncover the pot, stir in red currant jelly, and season to taste with more salt and black pepper. Continue cooking until the jelly is fully melted and the cooking juices are glossy, 4–5 minutes more. Remove from heat and serve hot.

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Georgian Beef Kharcho

Tue, 30 Nov 2021 02:47:45 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY: LINDA PUGLIESE; FOOD STYLIST: MARIANA VELASQUEZ; PROP STYLIST: ELVIS MAYNARD

Kharcho is a catch-all term for spicy Georgian beef stew. Though it hails from the Black Sea region of Mingrelia, today it’s a staple across many former Soviet countries. Some versions are brothy and flecked with rice, while others, like this one served at Salobie Bia in Tbilisi, are ultra-thick and all about the ground walnuts and spices. Chef Giorgi Iosava ladles his kharcho over creamy millet porridge, a comforting counterpart to the punchy, piquant stew.

Featured in “The Walnut Whisperers of Georgia,” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 5

Time: 4 hours 20 minutes

2 lb. beef brisket, trimmed and cut into 1-in. pieces
Kosher salt
3 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 large onion, finely chopped (2 cups)
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
Pinch ground cloves
3 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped, or ¾ cup canned crushed tomatoes
2 cups (8 oz.) walnuts, lightly toasted
1 tsp. Aleppo pepper or crushed red chile flakes, or more to taste
1 tsp. ground coriander seeds, preferably Georgian
1 tsp. ground fenugreek seeds, preferably Georgian blue fenugreek (utskho suneli)
½ tsp. ground dried marigold petals (aka Georgian “saffron”), or ¼ tsp. ground turmeric

Instructions

Using paper towels, pat the beef dry, then season generously with salt. To a large heavy-bottomed pot over high heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add half of the beef and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate, then repeat with the remaining beef and set aside.
Turn the heat to medium-high, then, to the same pot, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking until softened, about 2 minutes more. Turn the heat to high and add the reserved beef, bay leaf, and cloves. Add hot water to cover the meat by one inch, then bring to a full boil. Turn the heat down to medium-low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat flakes when nudged with a fork, 3–3½ hours.
Meanwhile, to the bowl of a food processor, add the walnuts, Aleppo pepper, coriander, fenugreek, marigold, and ½ cup warm water, and blend until smooth.
Once the meat is tender, add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly, about 15 minutes. Stir in the walnut mixture and cook until the cooking liquid has slightly thickened and is a golden brown color, about 10 minutes more . Season with salt to taste, and serve.

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Veal and Pearl Onion B’stilla

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:30 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

B’stilla, a North African meat pie, is traditionally made with poultry. Cookbook author Suzanne Zeidy‘s take includes veal and caramelized pearl onions. When ordering the veal for this recipe, have your butcher remove the bone.

Featured in: “Lunch at the Desert’s Edge“

Yield: 8

Time: 3 hours

3 Tbsp. olive oil
10 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, divided, plus more as needed
1 lb. pearl onions, peeled
2¾-lb. boneless stew veal, cut into 2-in. chunks, patted dry with paper towels
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1 tsp. ground allspice
1 serrano chile, seeded, and finely chopped
4 cups veal or chicken stock
16 phyllo dough sheets (8 oz.), thawed

Instructions

To a large pot set over medium heat, add the olive oil, 2 tablespoons of the butter, and the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and deep golden brown, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl and set aside. To the empty pot, add the veal and turn the heat to medium-high. Season with salt and black pepper to taste and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned all over, about 12 minutes.
Add the nutmeg, allspice, and chile and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the stock and reserved onions and turn the heat to high. When the liquid boils, turn the heat to medium-low and cook, partially covered and stirring occasionally, until the veal flakes when poked with a fork, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Remove from the heat; when cool enough to handle, coarsely shred the meat, adding it back to the sauce; set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Using some of the remaining butter, grease a 9-inch springform pan. Line the bottom of the pan with 1 phyllo sheet, letting the excess creep up the sides, then brush with melted butter. Repeat with 7 more phyllo sheets, brushing butter between the layers and rotating each new sheet one quarter turn so that the crust overlaps decoratively.
Using a silicone spatula, spread the veal mixture over the crust in an even layer. Fold the overhanging phyllo down onto the meat and brush with more butter. Drape 1 phyllo sheet on top of the pie, brush with butter, then top perpendicularly with another sheet. Repeat with the remaining sheets, brushing each new layer with butter, then tuck the phyllo corners down the sides of the pan. Brush all over with butter and bake until crackly and golden, about 40 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool for at least 10 minutes before unmolding. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Our Favorite Gumbo Recipe for a Crowd

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:45:26 +0000

Photography by Dan Dao

“There are as many ways to make gumbo in Louisiana as there are cooks,” says chef Frank Brigtsen of Brigtsen’s Restaurant in New Orleans. His rich, hearty version—a “filé gumbo” thickened with ground sassafras leaves—uses the flavorful oil left over from browning the chicken to make the roux, upping the meatiness and complexity of the dish.

Featured in “Channel the ‘90s This Soup Season by Making a Bit Pot of Gumbo,” by Madeleine Deliee.

Yield: 10–12

Time: 4 hours 30 minutes

1 lb. andouille sausage, cut into ¼-in.-thick half-moons
3 cup all-purpose flour, divided
3 Tbsp. Cajun seasoning, divided
One 3 lb. chicken, cut into 6 pieces or 3 lb. bone-in skin-on chicken pieces
Peanut oil, for frying
2 Tbsp. olive oil
4 cup coarsely chopped yellow onions, divided
3 cup coarsely chopped celery, divided
2 cup coarsely chopped seeded green bell pepper, divided
2 bay leaves
3 Tbsp. filé powder
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
¼ tsp. dried thyme
¼ tsp. ground white pepper
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
12 cups chicken stock, or water
Steamed white rice, for serving

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. On a foil-lined baking sheet, spread the sausage in an even layer and bake until the edges are browned, 35–40 minutes. Set aside and turn off the oven.
Meanwhile, in a shallow dish or pie plate, whisk together 2 cups of the flour and 1 tablespoon of the Cajun seasoning. Sprinkle the chicken all over with the remaining Cajun seasoning. Dredge each piece in the seasoned flour and transfer to a plate beside the stove.
Into a large pot or Dutch oven fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour the peanut oil to a depth of ½ inch and turn the heat to medium-high. When the temperature reads 350°F, working in batches, fry the chicken, turning once, until browned and crisp, about 10 minutes total. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Position a cheesecloth-lined fine-mesh strainer over a heatproof measuring cup, then carefully strain the peanut oil. Wipe out the pot and return it to the stove.
Make the roux: Into the pot, pour ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the reserved peanut oil (save the rest for another use) and turn the heat to medium-high. When it’s hot and shimmering, gradually whisk in the remaining flour and cook, whisking continuously, until the roux is butterscotch-colored, 2–3 minutes. Turn the heat to medium and continue to cook, whisking continuously, until the roux is reddish brown, 15–20 minutes more. Scrape the roux into a heatproof bowl, wipe out the pot, and return it to the stove.
To the empty pot, add the olive oil, 3 cups of the onion, 2 cups of the celery, 1½ cups of the bell pepper, and the bay leaves. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, 10–12 minutes. Turn the heat to medium and add the remaining onion, celery, and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes more. Turn the heat to low and add the filé, salt, cayenne, black pepper, thyme, white pepper, and garlic and cook, stirring continuously, until the filé dissolves into a smooth paste, 3–4 minutes. Gradually whisk in the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the reserved sausage, then turn the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally and skimming any fat that rises to the surface, until the vegetables are soft and the liquid has reduced slightly, about 1 hour.
Add the reserved chicken and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is fully cooked, 30–35 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the chicken pieces to a cutting board, and when cool enough to handle, discard the bones and skin and coarsely chop the meat; set aside.
Bring the liquid to a boil and skim any fat that rises to the surface. Whisk 2 tablespoons of the roux into the boiling broth. Repeat, adding the roux spoonful by spoonful, until none remains. Turn the heat to low and cook, skimming any fat that rises to the surface, until the gumbo thickens slightly, about 25 minutes. Return the chopped chicken to the pot and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring gently, until the chicken is heated through, about 5 minutes. Serve with rice.

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Carrots with Aleppo Pepper and Mint

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:06 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

Fresh mint, Aleppo pepper, and cumin flavor this carrot salad from chef Michael Solomonov of Zahav in Philadelphia. The carrots’ cooking liquid becomes a concentrated syrup when reduced, perfect for a subtly sweet dressing. Find all of our best carrot recipes here.

Featured in: “Eating Israel with Michael Solomonov.”

Yield: serves 4-6

Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

1½ lb. heirloom carrots cut into 2-inch lengths, then cut lengthwise into approximately ½-inch pieces
Kosher salt
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
¼ cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped mint leaves
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. Aleppo pepper
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. ground cumin

Instructions

To a large skillet, add the carrots and cover with 1½ cups of generously salted water. Turn the heat to high, and when the water boils, cook the carrots, turning occasionally, until beginning to soften, 8–10 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the carrots to a cutting board, and when cool enough to handle, halve them lengthwise. (If using regular carrots, cut into quarters.) Transfer to a serving bowl and set aside.
To the skillet with the cooking liquid, add the garlic and cook until the liquid becomes syrupy and reduces to about 3 tablespoons, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the oil, mint, lemon juice, Aleppo pepper, sugar, cumin, and salt to taste.
Pour the dressing over the carrots and toss to combine, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving.

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Chicken Cacciatore

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:34:52 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

Americans know this dish as chicken cacciatore (Italian for hunter), but the correct term is “alla cacciatora,” or hunter’s style, applied to many kinds of wild game stewed in wine with tomatoes and onions. This version ran alongside Robert Ragaini’s 2002 story, “Summer in a Can,” which profiled the famed San Marzano tomato.

Featured in: “Make this 1-Hour Italian Chicken Braise for Dinner Tonight.”

Find this recipe in our cookbook: SAVEUR: Italian Comfort Food

Yield: serves 4

Time: 1 hour

¼ cups extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
One 3-lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1 cup dry white wine
One 28-oz. can whole tomatoes, chopped, juice reserved
1 cup chicken stock
¼ cups cup finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large cast-iron skillet set over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of the oil and the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes. Scrape into a small bowl and return the skillet to the stove.
To the empty skillet, add the remaining oil and the chicken and cook, turning once, until evenly browned on both sides, about 8 minutes. Add the wine and cook until it has nearly evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes with their juices, stock, parsley, rosemary, bay leaf, and salt and black pepper to taste. Turn the heat to low and cook, partially covered, until the chicken is very tender and the sauce has thickened slightly, about 45 minutes. Sprinkle with more parsley, and serve.

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Rogan Josh (Kashmiri Chile-Braised Lamb)

Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:38:40 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAOLA + MURRAY; FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

Smoky Kashmiri chile powder and rich ghee are the foundations of this recipe from Ahdoo’s Hotel in Srinagar, Kashmir. Cooked for weddings and other auspicious occasions, the Kashmiri feast, or wazwan, can include up to 36 dishes, often including these tender lamb shanks. The cooks who prepare the banquet are supervised by a wouste waze, or master chef, schooled in the art of this meat-centric meal. This rogan josh recipe first appeared in the tablet edition of our August/September 2014 special I ndia issue.

Yield: serves 4

1½ tbsp. Kashmiri chile powder
2 tsp. ground fennel seeds
2 tsp. ground ginger
1 tsp. asafoetida
1 tsp. cumin seeds
8 green cardamom pods
2 blades of mace, or 1 tsp. ground
1 stick cinnamon, halved
⅓ cups ghee
5 black cardamom pods, cracked with the heel of a knife or mortar and pestle
4 lamb shanks, halved crosswise (ask your butcher to do this)
Kosher salt, to taste
¼ tsp. crushed saffron threads
2 tbsp. coarsely chopped cilantro
Cooked white rice or naan bread, for serving (optional)

Instructions

In a small bowl, whisk together the Kashmiri chile, fennel, ginger, asafoetida, and ½ cup water to make a paste. In a spice grinder, grind the cumin, green cardamom, mace, and cinnamon into a powder.
To a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, add the ghee and black cardamom and cook until fragrant, 1–2 minutes. Season the lamb generously with salt and, working in batches, fry it in the ghee, turning once or twice, until browned, 5–7 minutes. Stir in the saffron, reserved paste, and 2 cups of water. When the liquid boils, turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the lamb is tender, about 55 minutes. Stir in the reserved spice powder, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the lamb is very tender, 40–45 minutes. Garnish with the cilantro, and serve.

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