Braise & Stew | Saveur

Marcella Hazan’s Braised Celery with Tomatoes

Marcella Hazan — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:37 +0000

Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Julia Gartland • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

This sedano e pomodori brasati (braised celery and tomato) recipe, adapted from celebrated Italian cookbook author Marcella Hazan, produces results that are surprising from celery: creamy, sweet, luscious. The stalks’ stringy fibers, often removed before cooking, here act as a brace that helps the vegetable keep its shape through a long simmer.

Featured in “The Soft Approach: In Praise of Soft-Cooked Vegetables” by Lesley Porcelli.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours

3 oz. pancetta, cut into 1-in. pieces
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 bunches celery (about 2 lb.), stalks trimmed and cut on the bias into 2-in. pieces
¾ cup whole peeled canned tomatoes with their juices, crushed by hand
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large pot over medium-high heat, add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders, about 12 minutes. (If the pancetta begins to brown too fast, turn the heat to medium-low.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside to drain.
Return the pot to medium-high heat and add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and light brown, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, tomatoes, and ¼ cup of water and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cover the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the celery is very tender, about 1½ hours.
Transfer the celery with its juices to a serving bowl and sprinkle with the reserved pancetta. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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Basque Oxtail Stew

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:05 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Centuries of Basque immigrant culture are distilled into a meal at Bakersfield, California’s Wool Growers restaurant, where lunch is a parade of rib-sticking French Basque dishes. First, vegetable soup chock-full of cabbage and leeks; stewed pinto beans; a tomatoey “hot sauce.” Then marinated tomatoes, mixed greens, and a creamy slab of blue cheese. Finally, meat: tender beef tongue in a parsley-packed vinaigrette, or this oxtail stew loaded with sweet carrots and thickened with beurre manié, a mixture of softened butter and flour. Solid, satisfying, lovable: it’s just how we want this old-world cuisine to be.

Featured in the January/February 2014 issue.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Tri-ply Stainless Steel 8-Quart Stock Pot here.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 4 hours

4 lb. oxtails, trimmed of excess fat
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 cups dry red wine
6 cups chicken stock
One 8-oz. can tomato sauce
6 medium carrots, cut into ½-in. pieces
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
¼ cup all-purpose flour

Instructions

Season the oxtails to taste with salt and black pepper. In a large pot over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it’s hot and shimmering. Working in batches, add the oxtails and cook, turning occasionally, until browned, 8–10 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the oxtails to a plate and set aside.
Add the garlic and onion to the pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, 6–8 minutes. Add the wine and continue cooking, stirring and scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pot, until reduced by a third, 3–5 minutes.
Return the oxtails to the pot, add the stock and tomato sauce, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low, cover the pot, and simmer until the oxtails are tender, 2½–3 hours.
Uncover the pot and return to a simmer. Add the carrots and cook until tender, 15–20 minutes.
To a small bowl, add the butter and flour. Using your fingers or a fork, knead or mash the mixture until the flour is fully incorporated and a smooth paste forms. Stir the paste into the stew and cook until slightly thick, 8–10 minutes.

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Braised Rabbit with Pan-Fried Radishes and Creamy Polenta

Eliza Glaister — Sat, 12 Aug 2023 00:45:00 +0000

Photography by Daniel Seung Lee; Art Direction by Kate Berry

Chef Eliza Glaister grew up in New York’s Hudson Valley, where her cooking was influenced by neighboring farmers and wild game purveyors like Quattro’s Farm. This braised rabbit recipe, served over creamy polenta and topped with pan-fried radishes and leek oil, is a summer favorite. “When preparing game with little to no fat, especially rabbit, braising it is a wonderful method,” she says. “Cooking seasonally means working with ingredients that are all growing together at the same time and place. They end up just working well together. The radish and dandelion greens add a big punch of peppery bitterness to this succulent braise.”

Featured in “Our New Favorite Single Malt Whisky Comes From … New York?” by Shane Mitchell.

Yield: 4—6

Time: 2 hours

Ingredients

For the rabbit:

1 medium leek, washed
1 whole 2½–3 lb. rabbit
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups chicken stock
2 cups dry white wine
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano leaves
6 fresh bay leaves, or 12 dried
6 juniper berries
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

For the vegetables:

1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 bunch red radishes (8–12 oz.), greens left attached, scrubbed and halved lengthwise
12 large dandelion leaves
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Kosher salt

For the grits:

2 cups whole milk, divided
½ cup fine yellow grits or polenta
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Kosher salt, to taste

Instructions

Make the rabbit: Discard any dry or discolored green parts of the leek, then coarsely chop the remaining greens and reserve. Slice the white end into 1-inch-thick rounds and set aside. To a large Dutch oven, add the rabbit and 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat to medium and cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown on all sides, about 8 minutes total. Add the chicken stock, white wine, oregano, leek rounds, bay leaves, and juniper berries. When the liquid begins to boil, cover and turn the heat to medium-low. Simmer, rotating the rabbit halfway through cooking, until the rabbit is tender, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat.
Meanwhile, in a food processor, purée the leek greens and remaining oil, then strain into a bowl and season with salt to taste. (Refrigerated, the sauce will keep for one month.)
Using tongs, transfer the rabbit to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, pick the meat from the bones (discard the bones, or reserve them to make a stock) and return it to the pot. Stir in the mustard and salt and black pepper to taste, then turn the heat to low and continue to cook, uncovered, until thickened slightly, 10–15 minutes.
Make the vegetables: To a skillet set over medium-low heat, add the oil, butter, radishes, dandelion leaves, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the radishes are fork tender, 6–10 minutes. Season with salt and set aside.
Make the grits: In a medium pot, bring 1 cup of the milk and 1 cup of water to a boil. Season with salt, then turn the heat to low and add the grits. Cook, whisking continuously, until thickened, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the butter and remaining milk and season with salt to taste.
To serve, scrape the grits onto a platter. Using a slotted spoon, top evenly with the braised rabbit, then spoon with the cooking liquid. Top with the vegetables, then drizzle with the leek oil and serve.

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Goat (or Chicken) Tagine with Fennel, Olives, and Ras el Hanout

Benjamin Kemper — Wed, 29 Mar 2023 12:39:46 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Dayna Seman

Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s weeknight cooking column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest ideas that require just one pot, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

“Tagine is architecture,” explained Houssa Yakobi, owner of Gîte Ourthane in Zaouiat Cheikh, as his elder sister Mouna—a stern silver-haired woman with faded face tattoos—scattered sliced cardoon over goat meat stewing in orange broth. The olives, carrots, and sweet potatoes would be layered on in an hour or so—enough time for us to knead up a batch of sourdough khobz, the sturdy Moroccan bread that doubles as a sponge for the goat tagine’s cumin-scented juices.

Purists will tell you a tagine isn’t a tagine unless it’s cooked in the eponymous conical pot, but don’t worry if you don’t own one: This dish comes out wonderfully in a Dutch oven. If you can find cardoon, use it (peeled and coarsely chopped) in place of the fennel as they do in the Atlas Mountains, adding it along with the parsley and spices in step 1. Cardoon and fennel are traditional early-spring tagine ingredients. Chicken thighs make a fine substitute for goat if the latter isn’t readily available.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

2 lb. boneless goat meat, such as leg, shoulder, or neck (or 2 lb. boneless skinless chicken thighs), cut into 3-in. chunks
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley leaves, plus more for garnish
1 Tbsp. ras el hanout spice blend
1½ tsp. ground cumin
1 small onion, peeled and quartered
1½ lb. fennel bulbs (about 3 small), cored, trimmed, and coarsely chopped, fronds reserved
2 plum tomatoes (fresh or canned), peeled and coarsely chopped
3 medium carrots, peeled and halved lengthwise
1 large red potato (12 oz.), peeled and cut lengthwise into eighths
1 large white sweet potato (12 oz.), or regular sweet potato, peeled and cut lengthwise into eighths
1 cup pitted green olives (preferably Moroccan, Greek, or Turkish), smashed with the side of a knife

Instructions

To a large, wide pot or tagine, add the goat, oil, salt, and garlic and turn to coat. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, turning the meat frequently, until opaque all over (do not brown), about 5 minutes. Add the parsley, ras el hanout, cumin, onion, and 1 cup of water. Cover, turn the heat to medium-low, and cook for 30 minutes.
Scatter evenly with the fennel and tomatoes. On top, alternate wedges of carrot, red potato, and sweet potato in a tight circle pointing toward the center (save any vegetables that don’t fit for another use). Top evenly with the olives (do not stir), then cover and cook until the vegetables are soft and the meat flakes easily when poked with a fork, about 1 hour. Sprinkle with the fennel fronds and serve.

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Lemony Moroccan Lamb Stew with Garlic and Saffron

Amanda Mouttaki — Tue, 28 Feb 2023 19:48:14 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

Traditionally cooked overnight in the burning embers beneath Marrakech’s hammams, tangia is an aromatic, saucy Moroccan lamb stew flavored with saffron and preserved lemons. The meat should be so soft that it disintegrates when poked with a fork, a texture achieved more quickly in a pressure cooker or Instant Pot than in a standard Dutch oven. The older the preserved lemons, the more multilayered the broth will taste (vendors in Marrakech sell “back-vintage” jars aged up to four years, a true delicacy).

Featured in “Marrakech’s Best-Kept Food Secret Is (Literally) Beneath Your Feet,” by Amanda Mouttaki.

Yield: 4

Time: 2 hours 20 minutes

2 Tbsp. olive oil
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp. ground cumin
¾ tsp. ground white pepper
½ tsp. ground turmeric
Pinch saffron threads, ground in a mortar and pestle
2 lb. boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1½-in. chunks
1¾ tsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. finely chopped preserved lemon rind, or two (2-inch-long) lemon zest strips
Parsley sprigs, for garnish

Instructions

To a large pot (or pressure cooker; see footnote) set over medium heat, add the oil and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in the cumin, white pepper, turmeric, and saffron and cook for 1 minute more. Add the lamb and salt and stir to coat with the spices. Add the preserved lemon and enough water to just cover the meat, then bring to a boil. Cover, turn the heat down to maintain a strong simmer, and cook until the meat is soft and flakes apart easily, about 2 hours.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a bowl. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook the broth, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly and reduced by one third, about 10 minutes. Return the lamb to the pot and bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat.
Transfer the tangia to a serving bowl (alternatively, serve straight from the pot) and garnish with parsley sprigs.

Note: If using a pressure cooker or Instant Pot, add less water—only enough to come halfway up the meat—then cook over medium-high heat at high pressure for about 1 hour. Allow the pressure to naturally release before opening. Skip step 2 (the broth will already be concentrated enough).

The post Lemony Moroccan Lamb Stew with Garlic and Saffron appeared first on Saveur.

Blanquette de Veau

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:09 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

This classic French dish of delicate veal, cream, carrots, mushrooms, and butter (and more butter) does in many ways feel like a blanketed dish—in which nothing is cooked to the point of browning, but rather velveted in a warm and comforting white sauce. Blanquette de veau consistently ranks in the top ten when the French are surveyed about their favorite dishes. Find more of our favorite classic French recipes here.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 3 hours

5–6 parsley sprigs
3 thyme sprigs
1 tsp. coriander seeds
2 garlic cloves
5 black peppercorns
2 whole cloves
1 bay leaf
3 lb. boneless veal shoulder, cut into 1-in. chunks
16 baby carrots, peeled
10 oz. pearl onions, peeled
2 small fennel bulbs, each cut into 8 wedges
10 oz. button mushrooms, quartered
5 celery stalks, cut into 1-in. pieces
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. all-purpose flour
2 cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
Cayenne pepper
Cooked white rice, for serving
⅓ cup crème fraîche
Parsley leaves, to garnish

Instructions

Make a bouquet garni: In a large square of cheesecloth, bundle the parsley, thyme, coriander, garlic, black peppercorns, cloves, and bay leaf; tie with kitchen twine to close, and set aside.
In a large pot set over high heat, bring the veal, bouquet garni, and 10 cups water to a boil; turn down the heat to medium-low, and cook, occasionally and skimming any impurities that rise to the surface, for 30 minutes. Add the carrots, onions, and fennel, and cook for 30 minutes. Add the mushrooms and celery, and cook until the veal is very tender and vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the veal and vegetables to a large bowl; cover and keep warm.
Set a fine sieve over a large bowl, and strain the veal. Measure 4 cups of the cooking liquid into a small pot, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 30 minutes. (Reserve the remaining veal broth for another use.)
Wipe the large pot clean and return it to the stove over medium heat; add the butter and once it has melted, whisk in the flour, and cook, stirring, to make a smooth, white roux, 3–5 minutes. Add the reduced stock and the cream, and bring to a boil; cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce is thickened and slightly reduced, about 15 minutes.
Return the veal and vegetables to the sauce, and cook until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice, salt, white pepper, and cayenne; divide the blanquette de veau among bowls of white rice. Drizzle each serving with crème fraîche and garnish with parsley leaves before serving.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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Kosher Cachopa

Michael Twitty — Fri, 23 Sep 2022 23:27:32 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID MALOSH; FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

The collection of islands off the coast of West Africa known as Cape Verde was colonized by the Portuguese from the Age of Exploration well into the 20th Century, from 1462 until the islands gained their independence in 1975. Today’s Cape Verdean diaspora is rediscovering its Jewish roots. Worked by forced labor from West Africa, the Cape Verdean people are a mixture of Africa, Iberia, and all the worlds in between, including Jews who sought refuge from the Inquisition. When adapted to feature kosher cuts of meat, cachopa, one of the island nation’s signature dishes, makes an excellent Shabbat stew or replacement for cholent. (This recipe from writer Michael Twitty also works well as a slow cooker supper for Shabbat afternoon.) Many kosher butchers and farmers markets offer “bacon” made from beef brisket or lamb. For the kosher sausage, use an all-beef version, chicken sausage, or a mix.

Yield: 4

Time: 1 hour

3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more as needed
1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (1½ cups)
4 garlic cloves
2 bay leaves
6–8 cups chicken or vegetable broth
One 15-oz. can white hominy, drained
One 14.5-oz. can light kidney beans, drained
½ cup frozen lima beans
1 lb. kosher sausage, sliced ½-in. thick
¼ lb. kosher beef or lamb bacon, cut into small cubes
2 cups coarsely chopped green cabbage or kale
1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1–in. cubes (2 cups)
1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-in. cubes (2 cups)
1 medium plantain, peeled and thinly sliced into ½-in. thick rounds (1 cup)
½ medium butternut squash (or other winter squash), peeled and cut into 1-in. cubes (1 cup)
¼ cup green beans, sliced lengthwise
One 5½-lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 medium plum tomatoes, quartered
½ cup store-bought sofrito
Coarsely chopped cilantro, for garnish

Instructions

To a large pot over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of the oil, the onion, garlic, and bay leaves. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and fragrant, 5–7 minutes. Add 6 cups of broth, then stir in the hominy, kidney beans, and lima beans. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat down to low and cook at a simmer until the beans are very tender and the flavors have mingled together, about 45 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
To a large skillet over medium heat, add the sausage and bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until they have rendered a little of their fat, 5–6 minutes. Add the cabbage, potatoes, plantain, squash, and green beans and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage has wilted, about 12 minutes. Transfer the contents of the skillet to the pot, wipe the skillet clean and return it to the stove.
Season the chicken all over with salt and black pepper. Set the skillet over medium heat and add the remaining oil. Once the oil is hot and shimmering, add the chicken pieces in batches and cook, turning occasionally, until lightly browned all over, about 14 minutes per batch.
Transfer the browned chicken to the pot, and add the tomatoes. If necessary to submerge the chicken, add more broth to the pot, then set over low heat and cook, stirring occasionally and skimming any foam off the surface, until the chicken is cooked through, about 1 hour.
Stir in the sofrito and continue cooking until the chicken is very tender and the broth is flavorful and concentrated, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside until the juices have cooled slightly and thickened about 30 minutes. Ladle the cachopa into wide bowls, sprinkle with cilantro, and serve warm or at room temperature.

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Shahi Goat Korma

Sahil Rahman — Thu, 21 Apr 2022 00:41:35 +0000

Photography by Linda Pugliese; Food Styling by Christine Albano; Prop Styling by Carla Gonzalez-Hart

Originating in South Asia’s Mughal Empire, korma (also spelled “qorma”) was frequently prepared in royal Mughal kitchens. These days, made with goat, chicken, or simply vegetables, korma is typically associated with celebrations. Sahil Rahman, co-founder of the Washington, DC Indian restaurant, Rasa, loves to eat his Dolly Auntie’s goat korma for Eid—so much so that the holiday is incomplete without it in the Rahman household. Eaten with rice or naan, the stew is thoughtfully layered with warm spices including green and black cardamom, cumin, clove, and cinnamon. There’s also the addition of black cumin seed, a darker, thinner, and sweeter cousin of the more common brown cumin which is easily found in South Asian markets or specialty stores like Kalustyan’s. What sets this dish apart from more everyday South Asian stews is the addition of yogurt, which results in a luscious, soul-filling mouthful.

We’ve adjusted Dolly Auntie’s recipe here for use in an Instapot, but feel free to cook it traditionally—low and slow on the stove—or how Auntie likes to make it, using a pressure cooker. Just make sure to keep an eye on the heat and adjust as needed as the stew cooks.

Yield: serves 6

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

1 cup vegetable oil
4 large yellow onions thinly sliced
6 green cardamom pods
6 black cloves
½ tsp. black cumin seeds
½ tsp. black peppercorns, divided
1 stick cinnamon
2 small bay leaves
2 lb. bone-in goat shoulder or leg meat, cut into 2-in. pieces
3 garlic cloves, crushed to a paste (2 tsp.)
One 1/2-in. piece fresh ginger, peeled and crushed to a paste (2 tsp.)
1 tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 tsp. red chili powder
1 tsp. garam masala
1⅓ cups plain yogurt
2 black cardamom pods
¼ tsp. nutmeg powder.

Instructions

To a multi-cooker set on high-saute, add ¾ cup of the oil. Once hot and shimmering, add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and evenly browned, about 30 minutes. Set the pot to low heat, and using a slotted spoon, transfer the browned onions to a plate, leaving as much oil as possible in the pot. Set the onions aside.
Add the green cardamom pods, the cloves, ¼ teaspoon of the black peppercorns, the black cumin seeds, cinnamon stick, and bay leaves to the pot and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Turn the heat up to high-saute, then add the goat and cook, stirring frequently, until the meat is evenly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and ginger pastes and cook, stirring frequently, until the aromatics are very fragrant and beginning to brown. Stir in the salt, chile powder, and garam masala and cook until very fragrant, 2–3 minutes more. Add just enough water to barely cover the meat (about 5 cups), then cover the pot tightly with its lid and set to high-pressure cooking. Set aside to cook until the goat is almost fork-tender, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, to a blender, add the reserved browned onions along with the yogurt, black cardamom pods, and the remaining black peppercorns. Blend on high to make a fine paste, then set aside.
Once the goat is nearly fork-tender, uncover the pot and turn the heat to high-saute. Stir in the yogurt mixture and bring to a boil, stirring frequently, until the goat is completely fork tender and the gravy has thickened so that it coats the back of a spoon, about 25 minutes.
Stir in the nutmeg, and cook 2 minutes more, then turn off the heat. Ladle the korma into deep bowls, and serve hot, with naan or rice on the side.

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The Ultimate Chicken and Wine Braise

Tammie Teclemariam — Thu, 18 Feb 2021 17:39:35 +0000

Vin jaune comes from the Jura region in the French Alps, which is also the birthplace of Comté cheese. Chloe Zale

Some of the world’s greatest dishes demand a nip of wine or spirits to reach their full potential. Welcome to Splash in the Pan, where writer and drinks expert Tammie Teclemariam teaches you how to make them.

Poulet au vin jaune is a paragon of French food: regional, rich, and rustic. By all instructions, this chicken and mushroom stew might seem like a standard fricassee, but the soul of the dish relies on using the best of everything: pedigreed poultry, wild mushrooms, and thick cultured cream.

Hailing from the Swiss-bordering Franche-Comté, home of the Jura wine region, the star of this dish is vin jaune, a bone-dry golden elixir redolent of walnuts, bread, thyme, and spices with a stunning amount of acidity that makes it one of France’s most exceptional wines. Even after an hour of simmering in this stew, it still has a presence. Unlike simpler wines, vin jaune is deeply savory, blending seamlessly with the earthy flavors of mushroom and browned chicken.

Vin jaune also has a bit of a reputation, lying at the crossroads of old-school tradition beloved by textbook wine connoisseurs and the extreme flavors and low-intervention winemaking celebrated by natural wine hipsters. When David Chang hangs out with René Redzepi in Denmark, they’re drinking vin jaune.

Oxidative and aged “sous-voile,” or underneath a layer of naturally forming yeast, like many of the white wines the Jura is famous for, vin jaune must be aged for six years and three months in barrels that are never topped up. In that time, almost half of the wine’s volume will evaporate, which is why vin jaune is sold in squat 620ml bottles called clavelins, and why it is so costly, with bottles starting around $80.

Most recipes calling for wine don’t indicate something special—usually the opposite. Once cooked, the delicate aromas and tastes we enjoy from a glass disappear, concentrating the remaining sugars and tannins, so you don’t want to start with a wine that is too far in either direction, quality wise. Resist the impulse to cook with bottom-shelf wine as the cooking process will highlight any industrial additives. Light- and medium-bodied, dry table wines are a universal choice for most deglazing and braising needs.

Get the recipe for Poulet au Vin Jaune de Jura (Creamy Braised Chicken with Jura Wine and Morels) » Chloe Zale

Using something decent enough to drink is a good rule for standard dishes, but for a dose of defining flavor, many cooks reach for an oxidative wine. If you’ve added Shaoxing rice wine to a stir-fry, finished cream of crab with a splash of sherry, or sauteed chicken and mushrooms with Marsala, you know what I mean. The savory and nutty flavors imbued from these wines are distinctive and hard to replace, and no dish proves that more than poulet au vin jaune.

The supporting cast in this dish also shows the best that the agricultural paradise of Eastern France has to offer, like crème fraîche and morel mushrooms. When morels are in season, you should use as many in this dish as you can forage or afford. During the rest of the year, rehydrated dried ones are almost as nice.

Considering all the fanfare around morels, vin jaune, and cultured cream, you’d be remiss not to make this dish with a great chicken. The region is partially home to the AOP Poulet de Bresse, the only protected poultry designation within the European Union. If, like me, you can’t get your hands on an original specimen, a really great local free-range bird is a fair replacement. While butchering the bird, I also like to french the drumsticks, a step done at fancy restaurants to make the meat as tender as possible.

This is a deluxe chicken stew with a lot of delicious sauce, so you’ll want to put some time into contemplating a fine accompaniment like spätzle or a fragrant rice pilaf, though I’ve also seen it served in France with a side of fries. I take mine with fresh pappardelle and a glass of the remaining vin jaune alongside to complete the experience.

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Our 29 Best Holiday Soup Recipes To Make This Season

SAVEUR Editors — Fri, 30 Nov 2018 22:00:46 +0000

Bill Phelps

A comforting winter soup may not be your first instinct for a hearty meal, but with options ranging from warming mushroom soups to filling chicken and dumplings and Italian vegetable soups, it’s important to remember that a good broth can turn just about anything into a one-bowl meal. Make broths ahead of time and throw in leftovers from your holiday feast to keep enjoying your meal from the night before. Make rich bean soups or purée your favorite winter root vegetables for silky smooth, thick holiday soups. Either way, our best holiday soup recipes are the perfect way to ward off the chill on Christmas Day. For more holiday inspiration check out our Holiday Guide.

Italian Bean and Vegetable Soup

In this traditional Lucchese soup, vegetables and beans are slow-cooked until little to no bite remains, making it a rustic, comforting dish. Be sure to give any tougher vegetables all the time they need to scompare, or disappear. The quantities are flexible, so use whatever you have on hand. Get the recipe for Italian Bean and Vegetable Soup »

A variety mushrooms gives nuance to this hearty vegetarian soup. Any assortment of fresh mushrooms will work and you can change those flavorful notes by switching up the combination each time you make it. Get the recipe for Onion Fennel and Mushroom Soup »

Swiss Cheese Soup

A traditional dish enjoyed year-round in the Alps of southern Switzerland, this homey soup takes its name from the mountain huts where it’s commonly made. Typically incorporating cheeses from the region, this version is fortified with L’Etivaz (which can be found at specialty cheese shops) and heavy cream. If you can’t find L’Etivaz, substitute Gruyère instead. Get the recipe for Swiss Cheese Soup »

Seafood Soup with Ginger and Yuzu Kosho

Flavored with wine and aromatics, this broth is similar to a nage or poaching liquid—you only need a shallow pool of it in each bowl. The broth features red yuzu kosho, a Japanese condiment made from citrus, yuzu, and chiles, which adds a round, tart flavor that is hard to replace. In a pinch, add a little more chile and lime zest. If head-on shrimp are hard to find—or you’d rather not fight with fish heads on New Year’s Eve—nix them for more shelled shrimp. Get the recipe for Seafood Soup with Ginger and Yuzu Kosho »

Creamy Langoustine Soup (Humarsúpa)

Similar to an American lobster bisque, the broth for this warming Icelandic soup is reinforced with langoustine shells and reduced before being bolstered with cream and curry powder. Get the recipe for Creamy Langoustine Soup (Humarsúpa) »

Doenjang Jjigae (Fermented Soybean Stew)

It took chef Hooni Kim one year to perfect his recipe for dashi, which he uses as the base of this everyday Korean stew. Gochujang adds a subtle layer of heat to the broth, and doenjang boosts its richness and silkiness. Get the recipe for Fermented Soybean Stew (Doenjang Jjigae) »

Almond and Garlic Soup (Ajo Blanco)

Romulo Yanes

Pungent raw garlic shines in this no-cook soup adapted from Claudia Roden’s The Food of Spain (Ecco, 2011). Get the recipe for Almond and Garlic Soup (Ajo Blanco »

Fiskekrogen’s Fish Soup

Fiskesuppe, as it’s called in Norwegian, can be found at nearly every restaurant on the Lofoten Islands of northern Norway. Local cooks sometimes swap out cod for other seasonal fish, such as salmon, or add accents like red pepper, chunks of bacon, or chive oil. Get the recipe for Fiskekrogen’s Fish Soup »

Masa Ball and Tomato Soup

What do you make with a lot of leftover tortillas? Not just tortilla soup, but how about tortilla dumplings? These dumplings, from Mexican cooking sage Josefina Velázquez de León, get pan-seared, then simmered in a rich cream of tomato soup. Get the recipe for Masa Ball and Tomato Soup »

Nicaraguan “Rundown” Seafood Soup

Rundown Seafood Soup

Meant to be a catchall for the day’s available seafood, rundown showcases whatever’s freshest at the fish market along with tubers in a slightly sweet coconut milk broth. Get the recipe for Nicaraguan “Rundown” Seafood Soup »

Skate and Romanesco Soup

Broken pieces of spaghetti add body to this Roman soup, thickening the broth as it cooks. It’s a great use for the dregs of a box of dried pasta. Get the recipe for Skate and Romanesco Soup »

Roasted Chicken, Corn, and Saffron Soup

A hefty dose of saffron perfumes this corn-studded chicken noodle soup. Get the recipe for Roasted Chicken, Corn, and Saffron Soup »

Cream of Fennel Soup

This rich, smooth soup balances the gentle flavor of fennel with spices and a bracing addition of Pernod. Get the recipe for Cream of Fennel Soup »

Smoked Tomato Soup

Smoked tomatoes add additional depth of flavor to a thick, tangy soup. Get the recipe for Smoked Tomato Soup »

This kind of luscious puréed bean soup is made all over Italy with either white or fava beans. Prepare the soup several days in advance, but sauté the broccoli rabe just before serving. Get the recipe for White Bean Soup with Fennel Seeds and Broccoli Rabe »

Pumpkin Soup with Orange and Parmigiano-Reggiano

Caramelized roasted pumpkin gets an unorthodox hit of flavor from orange zest and juice, stirred in just before serving to brighten this wintry soup. Get the recipe for Pumpkin Soup with Orange and Parmigiano-Reggiano »

Pelmeni Dumplings in Chicken Broth

Ground pork-and-garlic-filled dumplings add soul-comforting richness to a simple chicken broth in this Siberian soup. Get the recipe for Pelmeni Dumplings in Chicken Broth »

Frikadelki in Broth with Fermented Herbs

A simple onion–potato broth acts as the poaching liquid for tender turkey meatballs, the whole thing punched up with pungent, fermented dill, basil and parsley. Get the recipe for Frikadelki in Broth with Fermented Herbs »

Pearl Barley Soup with Moscato d’Asti

A splash of Italian dessert wine brightens up this warming ham and grain soup. Get the recipe for Pearl Barley Soup with Moscato d’Asti »

Duck and Andouille Gumbo

This stew uses rendered duck fat in the roux instead of butter and quartered ducks in lieu of the classic chicken. Get the recipe for Duck and Andouille Gumbo »

White Bean and Lacinato Kale Soup with Smoked Ham Hock

After flavoring the beans for this creamy winter soup, smoked ham hock is shredded and pan-fried, rendering it crisp and intensifying its flavor. Get the recipe for White Bean and Lacinato Kale Soup with Smoked Ham Hock »

Winter Squash and Apple Soup

A garnish of fried mushrooms and a drizzle of spiced mint butter adds elegance to a simple pureed vegetable soup.

A garnish of fried mushrooms and a drizzle of spiced mint butter adds elegance to a simple pureed vegetable soup. Get the recipe for Winter Squash and Apple Soup »

Consommé

As an apprentice in France, the first thing you learn to make is the beautifully translucent soup called consommé. It is the highest sophistication of stock, a pillar of French cuisine. Get the recipe for Consommé »

Borscht

When my parents emigrated from the Soviet Union to the U.S. in 1975, it didn’t take them long to assimilate, something they were eager to do. Among our Russian friends, they were always the most “American,” whether it came to their impressive command of English or the fresh, light way we ate at home. There were a few homeland favorites, however, that Mom kept in her repertoire. Perhaps the most beloved was borscht. Eaten hot or cold, vegetarian or with shreds of beef, enriched with a dollop of sour cream and wisps of dill, the beet-based soup is the quintessence of good Eastern European cooking. Hearty yet fine-tuned, dramatic in color yet humble in its ingredients, borscht, unlike my family, remains unapologetically Russian —Gabriella Gershenson

Senate Bean Soup

This simple bean soup is studded with ham. Get the recipe for Senate Bean Soup »

Mushroom-Barley Soup

A hearty beef stock serves as the base for mushroom and barley soup, a more elegant (but no less satisfying) version of the New York deli staple, elevated with fresh thyme and a squeeze of lemon juice. Get the recipe for Mushroom-Barley Soup »

Creamy Garlic Soup

A rich soup heavy with garlic and shallots makes a hearty first course or light main dish. Serve it with plenty of crusty bread. Get the recipe for Creamy Garlic Soup »

Normandy-Style French Onion Soup

Michel Roux, the French-born chef of England’s Le Gavroche, takes a Normandy spin on this classic soup with a splash of cider and a whole lot of subtlety. But the best part? It only takes an hour to make. Get the recipe for Normandy-Style French Onion Soup »

Chilled Mexican Potato and Leek Soup (Sopa de Poro y Papa)

This creamy, rich soup is a favorite in Mexico City. In summer it’s usually chilled like a vichyssoise, but it’s also served hot, especially in the cooler months. Get the recipe for Chilled Mexican Potato and Leek Soup (Sopa de Poro y Papa) »

The post Our 29 Best Holiday Soup Recipes To Make This Season appeared first on Saveur.

Spicy Braised Kale

Spike Gjerde — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:38 +0000

Bittersweet kale mingles with a tangy verjus and spicy pepper flakes in this spring greens recipe. Feel free to substitute other greens like cabbage, collards, or spinach, and adjust cooking times as needed. Store-bought peppadews are a good replacement for the pickled aji dulce, and if you can't find fish pepper flakes, cayenne or Aleppo pepper are easy substitutions. Get the recipe for Braised Overwintered Greens ». Matt Taylor-Gross

Bittersweet kale mingles with a tangy verjus and spicy pepper flakes in this spring greens recipe. Feel free to substitute other greens like cabbage, collards, or spinach, and adjust cooking times as needed. Store-bought peppadews are a good replacement for the pickled aji dulce, and if you can’t find fish pepper flakes, cayenne or Aleppo pepper are easy substitutions. This recipes comes from Chef Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore.

These slow-maturing veggies, which arrive in advance of proper spring vegetables, are here right now—get them before they’re gone

Featured In: Overwintered Greens Are Some of the Best Produce You’ll Eat All Year

2 tbsp. canola oil
1 yellow onion, peeled and sliced (2 cups)
3 cloves garlic, minced (3 Tbsp.)
¹⁄₂ cup verjus
4 cups chicken stock
15 pickled aji dulce, sliced (can substitute peppadews)
2 bunches collards, kale or other overwintered greens, stems removed and torn into small pieces (12 cups)
1 tbsp. fish pepper flakes (can substitute Aleppo pepper or cayenne)
Salt, to taste

Instructions

In a heavy bottomed pot over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil. Add the onions and garlic and cook until they start to caramelize, 7-10 minutes. Add the verjus. Using a wooden spoon, scrape any brown bits that might be on the pan. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half, 2 minutes. Add the chicken stock, aji dulce, and the greens. Cook until the liquid completely evaporates and the greens are tender, 45-50 minutes. Season with salt and fish pepper flakes.

The post Spicy Braised Kale appeared first on Saveur.