A marinade of red miso, ginger, and garlic gives these steaks a crisp, flavorful crust and a juicy interior. Serve them with chef and cookbook author Tadashi Ono’s Grilled Tomatoes with Soy Sauce and Yuzu Kosho.

Adapted from “The Japanese Grill” by Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat. Copyright © 2011. Available from Ten Speed Press.

Featured in “The Japanese Grill.”

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Flank steak, also known as London broil, isn’t the most tender cut of beef, but it is one of the most flavorful. The key to cooking a tender flank steak is to let the meat marinate for a good, long time and then carve it crosswise against the grain into very thin slices. No grill? No problem, as this recipe translates well to a stovetop method. If you do have your coals going, round out your cookout with all of the grilled essentials.

Featured in the June/July 2007 issue.

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Bathed in a rich coconut sauce fragrant with allspice and ginger, Jamaican curry chicken is a popular breakfast at Kingston cafes. Jamaican curry powder can be found at Caribbean groceries and online; we recommend using a mild one in this recipe as the Scotch bonnet packs a punch.

Featured in “Good Morning Jamaica,” by Betsy Andrews.

Buy the SAVEUR Selects Enameled Cast Iron 6-Quart Oval Roaster here.

Jamaica’s 15 Essential Dishes—And Where to Eat Them

Ackee and Saltfish

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A pork shoulder roast is marinated overnight in a garlicky citrus marinade in this adaptation of pernil asado con mojo from Miami-based food writer Victoria Pesce Elliott.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Voyage Series 4½-quart braiser here.

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If you’ve tried to flip a whole fish on a hot grill only to be left with stuck skin and mangled fillets, welcome to the club. But fret not: We’re here to help improve your live fire technique, because there’s an ocean of grilled fish recipes out there to try. A few affordable tools work wonders—a grill basket for whole trout or snapper, sturdy stainless steel grilling skewers for halibut and swordfish kebabs—but in a pinch, nonstick aluminum grill liners and pre-soaked bamboo skewers do the job nearly as well.

For your next cookout—or the next time you want to keep the cooking prep outdoors—here are seven grilling recipes from the archives.

Grilled Stuffed Trout with Pebre Sauce

Stuff freshwater trout with gooey mozzarella and chorizo sausage, and then finish with a piquant Chilean sauce of oregano, hot chile paste, and cilantro. Get the recipe > 

Whole Grilled Sea Bass

This recipe is adapted from the award-winning New York restaurant Estela, where cooks stuff whole fish with fragrant herbs and rub it with garlic butter before chucking it onto the grill. Get the recipe >

Galilee-Style Grilled Fish Kebabs

These Middle Eastern kebabs soak up complex flavors from a lemon-dill marinade and a spice blend of fennel, coriander and cumin. Get the recipe > 

Grilled Eel With Polenta

In Emilia-Romagna, cooks sear freshwater eel until smoky and serve it with charred corn-and-buckwheat polenta. Get the recipe >  

Redfish With Creamy Grits

Mild, sweet redfish–or any white freshwater fillet–rubbed with anchovy-garlic combo is a classic Louisiana fish camp dinner. Cajuns love eating it with soft grits drowned in butter. Get the recipe >   

Pescado Embarazado (Grilled Fish Skewers)

On Mexico’s Pacific coast, street vendors baste whole mackerel or bronzino with a citrus-achiote marinade. It’s a popular lunch break for Nayarit denizens hanging out on the beach. Get the recipe >

Salmon Teriyaki

In Japan, cooks lacquer salmon fillets with this sweet-and-salty glaze of mirin, soy, and sake and sear them on a traditional hibachi, but this version works on any type of grill. Get the recipe >

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A thick, flavorful marinade of mint, Aleppo pepper, and Turkish sweet red pepper paste caramelizes on the outside of these grilled chicken kebabs. This recipe first appeared alongside Ansel Mullins’s 2013 article “Keepers of the Flame,” in which he shares the techniques of the kebap ustaları (kebab masters) of Gaziantep, Turkey.

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Fresh uncured ham makes a wonderful holiday roast, tender and marbled but not fatty. Oranges, with their clean, citrusy spark, are an excellent foil for the pork’s richness. The recipe first appeared alongside author Margo True’s 1999 story “The Ordinary Orange.”

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Tangy, sweet peach jam balances the richness of these pan-fried pork chops inspired by California peach farmer David Mas Masumoto. Store the chops, marinade and all, in zip-top freezer bags to transport. The key to a good sear is simple: flip less. Let the crust caramelize before flipping to the other side. Feel free to swap the accompaniment out for your own favorite preserves, or try one of our favorites from best jams, jellies, and preserves.

Featured in: “A Change of Seasons.”

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If you’ve been to Thailand, you may have spent time on Phuket or Ko Samui, islands in the country’s southern region, but it’s unlikely you made it down to the predominately Muslim provinces near the Malaysian border. That’s because the region has, sadly, for several decades now, been home to a violent insurgency. I am currently researching a book on the food of southern Thailand, and even Thais were shocked that I was interested in visiting the country’s southernmost provinces. But after several trips to the area, I found it to be one of the most beautiful, fascinating, and friendly parts of Thailand.

When it comes to ethnicity, culture, and religion, Thailand’s deep south has little to do with the rest of the country. Most of its residents are ethnic Malays—Muslims who speak a Malay dialect known as Yawi. Not surprisingly, the region’s food also has a lot in common with what you might find south of the border, in Malaysia. Rich, often sweet flavors dominate, and dried spices make frequent appearances. Given the region’s lengthy coastline, seafood rules. And given the area’s predominant religion, meat dishes are typically halal.

This area’s most famous recipe is quite possibly a grilled chicken dish called kai kawlae, or in the local Malay dialect, ayae gawlae. Chicken, seasoned and grilled over coals, is a staple across Thailand, but several things make this southern variant unique. Most notably, the marinade is essentially a curry, which is painted over the meat in layers as it cooks, resulting in a grilled bird that’s rich, extremely fragrant, and smoky. 
The following recipe comes from Aisamaae Tokoi, a chef and teacher at Luukrieang, a non-governmental organization that provides housing and education for children orphaned by the insurgency.

The Curry Marinade

Unlike elsewhere in Thailand, where chicken is typically brined or flavored with a handful of pungent aromatics, the marinade for kai kawlae is more akin to curries used in Southeast Asian curries. The cook pounds herbs and dried spices in a mortar and pestle, fries the resulting paste in oil until fragrant, then simmers it in coconut milk, resulting in a thick sauce.

While classic Thai aromatics—galangal, ginger, and lemongrass—feature prominently in the dish, this mixture also has several attributes of Malay-style cooking, particularly the use of dried spices like fennel and fenugreek seeds, two ingredients rarely seen elsewhere in Thailand. In typical Thai style, these ingredients are first dry-roasted to bring out as much aroma as possible. Similarly, the dish’s dried chilies are also toasted, their ribs and seeds removed, emphasizing a deep smoky aroma rather than heat. 

“This dish shouldn’t be spicy,” says Aisamaae. “It should be sweet and salty—and a bit tart.” The acidity in the sauce comes from slices of dried asam fruit, which is common in Southern Thai Muslims’ cooking. It’s sharp flavor and a distinctive aroma are not unlike those of Chinese-style dried plums or tamarind. 

These elements are simmered together in rich and fatty fresh coconut milk. If the fresh stuff is unavailable, boxed (“UHT”) coconut milk gets the job done; avoid the stuff in cans, which often includes emulsifiers and other ingredients that prevent the sauce from cooking to the proper consistency. 

In Thailand’s deep south, a large granite mortar and pestle is traditionally used to process the spices to a paste, but a food processor or blender also works (add additional coconut milk, a couple of tablespoons at a time, if the mixture is too dry to catch the blade). And know that it’s no compromise to make the marinade a few days in advance; it keeps well in the fridge for up to a week.

Grilling

Another unique aspect of kai kawlae is how the marinade is applied during cooking. 

In Malay, golek—the local pronunciation of kawlae—means “to flip over,” and for this dish, the chicken is indeed turned as it cooks. It’s also repeatedly brushed with the spicy marinade; when one side gets crispy and close to charred, the skewers are flipped and painted again, resulting in tender, juicy meat encased in smoky, concentrated layers of flavor. “Usually we use the whole chicken for this dish—even the intestines!” Aisamaae explained, though when he demonstrated the recipe, he prepared only the thighs, which are particularly juicy and tender. While local vendors typically grill the dish on bamboo skewers for ease of service, when grilling at home, it’s also possible to cook the pieces unskewered, turning them with tongs. In Thailand’s deep south, this grilling is typically done over coals; a gas grill or even a broiler will work, though neither will impart the dish’s signature smoky flavor.

How to Serve

Kai kawlae isn’t merely part of the meal, it is the meal. With a side of rice, it’s the kind dish that southern Thais might enjoy for a picnic on the beach or purchase from a street vendor for a quick lunch. 

If chicken isn’t your thing, the dish is also frequently made with shelled and skewered cockles, which are marinated and grilled in the same manner. “It’s also a great recipe for people who don’t eat meat,” says Aisamaae. “My dad doesn’t eat chicken, so I make the dish with eggplants.” Firm, fried tofu is another vegetarian variation, and chef and cookbook author Andy Ricker suggests skewering meaty oyster mushrooms.

Recipe

Kai Kawlae (Southern Thai-Style Grilled Chicken)

Get the recipe for Kai Kawlae (Southern Thai-Style Grilled Chicken) »

The post This Grilled Chicken Is a Taste of Thailand’s Deep South appeared first on Saveur.

Instructions

1. In a medium skillet, heat the turbinado sugar over medium-high, swirling, until it turns to a dark caramel, about 8 minutes. Stir in the n’duja, vinegar, lime juice, fish sauce, chili peppers, salt, chile flakes, garlic, scallion, and ginger, and cook, stirring, until smooth, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the marinade from the heat and let cool.
2. Meanwhile, in a 4-qt. saucepan, bring 2 inches of water to a boil over high heat. Place a steaming basket in the bottom of the pot, and place the chicken wings in the basket. Cover and steam the wings until cooked through, about 15 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the wings to a large bowl along with the marinade, and toss to combine.
3. Light a grill. Using tongs, transfer the wings from the marinade to the grill, and cook, turning, until the wings are charred on the outside, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter and serve while hot.

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A classic jerk marinade is perfumed with rosemary and slathered over lamb loin chops for a surprising take on the iconic chicken preparation. The soy sauce in the marinade boosts the lamb’s umami flavors.

Featured in: Reinventing Jamaica

Equipment

• Food Processor
• Large Bowl
• Plastic Wrap
• Grill or Cast-Iron Grill Pan
• Platter

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