Issue 135 | Saveur

Grilled Scallops with Yuzu Kosho Vinaigrette

Tadashi Ono — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:11 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Tyna Hoang. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Tyna Hoang

One night, on the southern Japanese island of Kyushu, I ordered a bowl of ramen and watched the cook serve a paste alongside the noodle soup that I’d never seen before. It was yuzu kosho. It only has three ingredients: salt, hot pepper, and yuzu, the Japanese citrus, but it’s fascinating. It has spice, fragrance, aroma—everything. There are two types: red, made from ripe yuzu and red chiles, and green, from unripe fruit with green chiles. I use the sharper green version to cut through rich meats, and the milder red in seafood dishes, like these grilled scallops.

Pairing note: Earthy Sumiyoshi Tokubetsu Junmai sake from Japan’s Yamagata prefecture stands up to yuzu kosho’s spice.

Yield: 4

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. fresh or bottled yuzu juice
1 Tbsp. finely chopped scallions, white parts only
1 Tbsp. red yuzu kosho
2 tsp. soy sauce
16 large sea scallops
1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley leaves, for garnish
Kosher salt

Instructions

In a small bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk together the oil, yuzu juice, scallions, yuzu kosho, and soy sauce. To a medium bowl, add the scallops and one-third of the yuzu vinaigrette, then toss to coat.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. Alternatively, heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Add the scallops and grill, turning once, until golden brown and just cooked through, about 4 minutes total. Transfer to a platter and drizzle the remaining yuzu vinaigrette over the scallops. Garnish with the parsley, season to taste with salt, and serve hot.

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Ovaltine Pudding with Honeyed Rice Krispies

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:45:24 +0000

_ John Sundstrom, Lark and Licorous, Seattle_ "I call it malted milk with terroir, because of its unique mineral flavor" Read the complete SAVEUR 100 story » See the complete list of SAVEUR 100 items ». Todd Coleman

Malty Ovaltine flavors these puddings from New York City chef Pichet Ong.

Yield: serves 8

2 (¼-oz.) packages unflavored powdered gelatin
1 cup milk
3 cups heavy cream
³⁄₄ cup Ovaltine powder
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped and reserved
10 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt
¹⁄₄ cup sugar
3 tbsp. honey
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 ³⁄₄ cups crisped rice cereal, such as Rice Krispies
Whipped cream, for serving

Instructions

In a 2-qt. saucepan, sprinkle gelatin over milk and let sit for 5 minutes. Add cream, Ovaltine, and vanilla seeds and heat over medium heat; cook, stirring often, until gelatin dissolves and mixture is warmed through. Remove from heat and stir in chocolate and ¼ tsp. salt until smooth. Pour mixture through a fine strainer into a large pitcher; then pour into eight 6-oz. serving glasses or ramekins. Cover each glass with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled and set, at least 2 hours or overnight.
Meanwhile, heat sugar, honey, and butter in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, swirling pan often, until mixture turns the color of medium-dark caramel; add remaining salt and cereal and stir to coat evenly. Transfer mixture to a greased baking sheet and spread out evenly; let cool and then break into small chunks.
To serve, uncover each pudding and top with some of the crisped-rice mixture. Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream and serve immediately.

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Highlands Oyster Mignonette

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:42:25 +0000

Oysters' aphrodisiac fame comes from their suggestive shape and briny flavor. Rumor has it that Casanova, the great 18th century Venetian lover, used to dine on 50 oysters a day. Todd Coleman

Oysters raised in less-briny waters lack adequate salinity; chef Frank Stitt recommends serving them with a ramekin of this tart sauce made fizzy with the addition of prosecco.

Yield: makes 1 1/4 CUPS

³⁄₄ cup prosecco or cava
¹⁄₂ cup champagne vinegar
1 tbsp. crushed pink peppercorns
1 tbsp. raspberry vinegar
1 shallot, minced
Kosher salt, to taste

Instructions

Combine ingredients in a medium bowl and let sit for 30 minutes before serving with oysters on the half shell, such as bluepoint or Apalachicola.

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Fish Tacos with Roasted Tomato Salsa

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:23:28 +0000

Todd Coleman

The recipe for this dish was inspired by one from Hugh Acheson, chef of Five & Ten in Athens, Georgia.

Yield: serves 4

2 cloves garlic, unpeeled
2 plum tomatoes
1 serrano chile
2 dried guajillo chiles or 1 ancho chile and 1 pasilla chile
3 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
Kosher salt and sugar, to taste
1 cup cooked or canned pinto beans
16 (6") white corn tortillas
Canola oil, for frying
10 oz. boneless, skinless flounder or halibut filets, cut into 3" x 1/2" strips
2 tsp. chili powder
¹⁄₂ cup flour
1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced
1 lime, cut into wedges Sour cream, for serving

Instructions

Make the salsa: Heat a 12″ cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add garlic, tomatoes, and serrano chile and cook, turning occasionally, until charred all over. Transfer vegetables to a plate and let cool. Peel the garlic and stem and seed the serrano chile. Transfer vegetables and 2 tbsp. water to a small food processor and process into a chunky purée; set aside. Return skillet to medium-high heat. Add guajillo chiles and cook, flipping once, until toasted, 2 minutes. Transfer chiles to a bowl and cover with 2 cups hot water; let sit for 20 minutes to soften. Peel, stem, and seed chiles and purée; in food processor with tomato mixture. Add 1 tbsp. cilantro. Season salsa with salt and sugar, transfer to a bowl, cover, and set aside.
Make the tacos: Put beans into a small pot and heat over medium heat until hot; cover, remove from heat, and keep warm. Heat a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add tortillas and toast, turning occasionally, until soft, about 3 minutes. Stack tortillas on a sheet of aluminum foil and cover to keep warm. Pour oil into a 5-qt. pot to a depth of 2″ and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350º. Meanwhile, season fish with salt and chili powder and dredge in flour, shaking off excess. Working in batches, add fish to the oil and cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer fish to a rack set in a baking sheet. To serve, use 2 tortillas per taco. Divide beans among tacos; top beans with fish, avocado, the remaining cilantro, a squeeze of lime juice, a dollop of sour cream, and a tablespoon of salsa. Serve warm.

Pairing Note: A full-flavored lager, like Abita’s SOS weizen pils ($8 for a 22-ounce bottle), is a refreshing match for these tacos.

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Bacon-and-Cheese Deviled Eggs

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:33 +0000

SAVEUR kitchen assistant Max Iattoni gave us the recipe for these eggs, which he based on his favorite breakfast sandwich.

Yield: makes 12

6 eggs
¹⁄₄ cup finely grated sharp cheddar, plus more for garnish
¹⁄₄ cup mayonnaise
2 slices bacon, cooked and chopped, plus 2 tsp. rendered bacon fat reserved
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Hot sauce, such as Sriracha, to garnish

Instructions

Put eggs into a 4-qt. pot of water and bring to a boil. Remove pan from heat, cover, and let sit 15 minutes. Drain eggs and crack each shell slightly. Transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water and let cool. Peel eggs. Halve each egg; using a small spoon, transfer yolks to a medium bowl. Using a fork, mash yolks. Add cheddar, mayonnaise, ¾ of the chopped bacon, and bacon fat; season with salt and pepper. Stir vigorously with spatula until smooth.
Transfer mixture to a plastic bag or a piping bag fitted with a smooth tip and pipe into egg whites. Garnish eggs with the remaining bacon, more cheddar, and hot sauce and serve cold or at room temperature.

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Parsley and Pancetta Salad

Organic — Mon, 26 Mar 2012 08:00:00 +0000

Crisp, salty pancetta, earthy parsley, and lemon combine beautifully in this salad from Houston's Dolce Vita restaurant. Todd Coleman

Crisp, salty pancetta, earthy parsley, and lemon combine beautifully in this salad from Houston’s Dolce Vita restaurant.

Yield: serves 4

8 oz. pancetta, cut into 1/4″ cubes
6 cups loosely packed flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 lemons, peeled and segmented
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus more to taste
¹⁄₄ red onion, thinly shaved
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions

Heat pancetta in a 12″ skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until pancetta is crisp and its fat is rendered, about 12 minutes; remove from heat and keep warm.
To serve, place 1 1⁄2 cups parsley leaves on each of 4 serving plates and top with 4 lemon segments, 1⁄4 cup Parmesan, and some of the red onion. Using a slotted spoon, divide rendered pancetta among plates and then drizzle each serving with rendered fat. Top with more Parmesan, if you like, and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

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Corned Beef and Cabbage

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:47:13 +0000

Corned Beef. Todd Coleman

The recipe for this traditional Irish dish calls for brining beef brisket for 5 days to “corn” it. If you want to omit this step, buy 5 lbs. of corned beef from your butcher and proceed to step two.

Yield: serves 10

1 tbsp. allspice
1 tbsp. cloves
1 tbsp. coriander
1 tbsp. crushed red chile flakes
1 tbsp. mustard seeds
1 tbsp. whole black peppercorns
5 bay leaves
1 ¹⁄₄ cups kosher salt, plus more to taste
³⁄₄ cup sugar
1 tbsp. pink salt
1 (5-lb.) first-cut beef brisket
4 cloves garlic
1 medium onion
3 lb. small new potatoes, peeled
1 head green or Savoy cabbage, cored and shredded
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Instructions

Combine spices and 3 bay leaves in a 12″ skillet over medium heat. Cook, swirling pan constantly, until spices are toasted and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer 3⁄4 of the mixture (reserving the rest in a covered jar) to a 5-qt. pot and add 8 cups water, kosher salt, sugar, and pink salt. Bring to a simmer; remove pot from heat and let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate brine until chilled. Add brisket and weigh it down with a plate so brisket is submerged. Refrigerate for 5 days.
Drain corned beef and rinse. Transfer beef to a 5-qt. pot along with the reserved pickling spices, garlic, and onion. Cover corned beef with cold water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer until corned beef is tender, about 1 hour. Remove pot from heat and set aside.
Meanwhile, put potatoes into a 4-qt. pot of salted water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until potatoes are tender; drain. Put cabbage into a 3-qt. pot over medium-low heat, season with salt, add lemon juice and 1⁄2 cup water, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is tender, about 30 minutes. To serve, transfer potatoes and cabbage to a large serving platter. Transfer corned beef to a cutting board, thinly slice beef across the grain, and transfer to the platter. Spoon some of the cooking liquid over the beef and serve warm.

Pairing Note: Porterhouse Wrasslers XXXX Stout balances this briny dish with malty sweetness and a bracing hoppy bitterness.

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Sweetbreads with Chestnuts and Parsnips

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:25:17 +0000

This elegant preparation of poached and pan-seared sweetbreads served over wilted escarole with a port wine–cream sauce, comes from Boston chef Barbara Lynch. Todd Coleman

This rich and elegant dish was inspired by a recipe from Boston chef Barbara Lynch.

Yield: serves 4-6

2 ¹⁄₄ lb. veal sweetbreads
6 black peppercorns
3 carrots, cut crosswise into 1/2″ slices
2 ribs celery, quartered
2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 large white onion, cut into eighths
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 1/8″ coins
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
¹⁄₂ cup port or madeira
¹⁄₂ cup chicken or veal stock
6 prunes, pitted and quartered
6 roasted and peeled chestnuts, halved
8 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 bunch escarole, washed and chopped
¹⁄₂ cup heavy cream
¹⁄₃ cup flour, preferably Wondra

Instructions

Put sweetbreads into a bowl and cover with cold water; refrigerate overnight. Drain sweetbreads and transfer to a 6-qt. pot; add 12 cups water along with the peppercorns, carrots, celery, parsley, thyme, onions, and bay leaf. Season lightly with salt and pepper; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Set a strainer over a 5-qt. pot; strain sweetbreads, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid, and set both aside.
Peel and discard membrane from sweetbreads. Separate sweetbreads into 2″ pieces; pat dry and refrigerate. Heat oven to 300º. Toss parsnips in a bowl with oil and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a baking sheet and bake, turning occasionally, until tender, about 30 minutes; transfer to a rack and set aside. Meanwhile, bring port to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat and reduce by half. Add the stock, boil, and reduce liquid by half. Remove pan from heat, add prunes, and let steep for 10 minutes. Stir in chestnuts; set aside and keep warm.
Bring reserved sweetbreads cooking liquid and 2 tbsp. butter to a boil in a 12″ skillet. Add escarole and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer escarole to a bowl; cover and keep warm. Add heavy cream to skillet and continue cooking, whisking occasionally, until sauce coats the back of a spoon, about 3 minutes. Remove pan from heat, cover, and keep warm.
Season sweetbreads with salt and pepper. Put flour into a shallow dish and add sweetbreads, tossing to coat. Shake off excess flour and transfer to a rack set in a baking sheet. Working in 2 batches, melt 3 tbsp. butter in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat. Add sweetbreads and cook, turning once, until golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. To serve, divide escarole between 4 warm serving plates. Spoon cream sauce over escarole. Arrange sweetbreads over top. Arrange parsnips, chestnuts, and prunes around the rim of each plate; spoon port sauce over them and serve hot.

Pairing Note: A succulent, cherry-edged sangiovese, Villa di Capezzana Carmignano 2004 complements the sweetbreads’ earthiness.

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French Apple Tart

Organic — Wed, 19 Oct 2011 08:00:00 +0000

Once baked, the "rose" effect is enhanced by lighter and darker areas of caramelization. Back to The Art of the Tart ». Todd Coleman

New York City chef and author Sara Moulton taught us how to make this beautiful tart.

Yield: serves 8

1 ¹⁄₄ cups flour, plus more for dusting
12 tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed and chilled
¹⁄₄ tsp. kosher salt
7 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and halved
¹⁄₄ cup sugar
¹⁄₂ cup apricot jam
Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, for serving

Instructions

Combine flour, 8 tbsp. butter, and salt in a food processor and pulse until pea-size crumbles form, about 10 pulses. Drizzle in 3 tbsp. ice-cold water and pulse until dough is moistened, about 3—4 pulses. Transfer dough to a work surface and form into a flat disk; wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. Unwrap dough and transfer to a lightly floured work surface. Using a rolling pin, flatten dough into a 13″ circle and then transfer to a 11″-tart pan with a removable bottom; trim edges; chill for 1 hour.
Heat oven to 375º. Working with one apple half at a time, thinly slice into sections, keeping slices together. Press sliced apple half gently to fan it out; repeat with remaining apple halves. Place 1 fanned apple half on outer edge of the tart dough, pointing inward; repeat with 7 more apple halves. Separate remaining apple slices. Starting where the apple halves touch and working your way in, layer apples to create a tight rose pattern. Fill in any gaps with remaining apple. Sprinkle with sugar and then dot with remaining butter. Bake until golden brown, 60–70 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat apricot jam in a small saucepan until warmed and loose; pour through a fine strainer into a small bowl and set aside. Transfer tart to a wire rack; using a pastry brush, brush top of tart with jam. Let cool completely before slicing and serving with whipped cream.

See a step-by-step guide to forming the apple rosettes on this tart in our how-to gallery »

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Pizza Margherita

Tony Gemignani — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:45 +0000

The Neapolitcan classic reworked for home ovens. See the recipe for Pizza Margherita ». Todd Coleman

The recipe for this classic pie will work in home ovens; it’s our adaptation of a recipe from chef Tony Gemignani, owner of Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco.

Yield: makes four 12-inch pizzas

1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. active dry yeast
7 cups 00 flour, preferably Caputo brand, plus more
4 tsp. sugar
4 ¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Olivestri Siloro brand, plus more for drizzling
1 (28-oz.) can whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes, preferably Cento brand, undrained, passed through a food mill
8 oz. mozzarella fior di latte ovoline or mozzarella di buffala, thinly sliced and patted dry with paper towels
16 basil leaves, torn by hand

Instructions

Make the dough: In a small bowl, whisk together yeast and 3⁄4 cup plus 2 tbsp. water heated to 85º. Let sit for 10 minutes. Put flour and sugar into bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix on low speed to combine. With mixer on, add yeast mixture, 1 tsp. oil, and 1 1⁄2 cups ice-cold water; knead until smooth and a dough forms around hook, 7 minutes. Add salt and continue kneading for 2 minutes more. (If dough feels dry, add a few tbsp. cold water.) Divide dough into four portions, roll into tight balls, and transfer to a lightly floured baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
Remove dough from refrigerator and let come to room temperature. Put a pizza stone on lowest rack in oven and heat oven to 500º; heat for at least 40 minutes.
Make the pizzas: Working with one piece of dough at a time, dust with flour; using your hands, stretch and shape dough into a 11–13-inch circle. Transfer dough to a sheet of parchment paper. Drizzle oil around rim of dough. Spoon about 1⁄4 cup tomato sauce onto dough, leaving a 1-inch border. Season with salt. Arrange one quarter of cheese evenly over pizza. Drizzle pizza with more oil; using a pizza paddle or grasping the edges of the parchment paper, transfer pizza to pizza stone. Bake until golden brown, about 13 minutes. Slide parchment paper onto a pizza paddle or the back of a baking sheet and transfer to a work surface. Top with basil, drizzle with more oil, if you like, and slice. Repeat with remaining dough and toppings, and reserve remaining sauce for another use, such as pasta.

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Gastrique

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:44 +0000

This sweet and sour gastrique is an ideal accompaniment to grilled quail or roast duck. Todd Coleman

Years ago, I worked in chef Daniel Boulud’s kitchen at Le Cirque, New York City’s temple of modern haute cuisine. Every day was a clinic in sauce-making led by sous chef Sottha Khun. Khun was so masterful, we called him Yoda. One of the best lessons he taught was making gastrique, a sweet-sour sauce designed to balance the earthy flavors of game. We learned to alter its sweet and sour character by using different vinegars, sweeteners, dried fruits, and fruit juices. Over the years, I have taken to inventing gastriques for all kinds of rich foods, from grilled tuna to roast pork. One of my favorites is fig gastrique served with quail. —Stephen Kalt, Fornelletto, Atlantic City, New Jersey

**See the recipe for Fig Syrup »

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