snacks | Saveur

Dibi Hausa (Senegalese Grilled Beef Kebabs)

Pierre Thiam — Tue, 20 Jul 2021 21:18:40 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

This recipe, which appeared in Adrian Miller’s book, Black Smoke, is adapted from beef kebabs made by chef Pierre Thiam, a Senegal native, who is doing much to educate Americans about the food of his native country. It’s also a great way to get a taste of West African barbecue in a short period of time. Though this recipe calls for beef, you can use any other meat or vegetable to achieve delicious results. If using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for an hour before using. The tankora spice mix will last up to two months stored in an airtight container at room temperature.

Featured in “The Real Star Of West African-Style Grilling? This DIY-Friendly Seasoning” by Adrian Miller.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the tankora powder:

1 cup roasted, unsalted peanuts, crushed to a fine powder
1 tsp. ground ginger
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
½ tsp. ground cayenne pepper

For the kebabs:

1 lb. round steak, sliced into strips about 1½ by 2 by ⅜ in.
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. finely grated white or yellow onion
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
½ tsp. finely chopped garlic
¼ tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
1 chicken bouillon cube, crumbled (optional)
1 Tbsp. peanut or vegetable oil
1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
½ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

Make the tankora powder: In a small bowl, stir together the peanuts, ginger, salt, white pepper, and cayenne; set aside.
Prepare the kebabs: Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high. To a large bowl, add the steak, onion, tomato paste, garlic, ginger, and bouillon cube (if desired); toss to combine. Add the oil, white pepper, cayenne, and salt and toss to coat the meat evenly in the seasonings. Set aside to marinate for 10–15 minutes.
Thread a few slices of meat onto eight 6-inch skewers. Pour the reserved tankora powder onto a wide plate and roll each skewer in it, evenly coating all sides and shaking off any excess. Using a pastry brush, brush a bit more of the remaining marinade over each skewer. Transfer to the grill and cook, turning occasionally and basting with the marinade, until the meat is seared and browned all over and cooked through, 12–14 minutes. Serve hot or warm.

The post Dibi Hausa (Senegalese Grilled Beef Kebabs) appeared first on Saveur.

Dukkah

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:18 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Dukkah is a coarsely ground nut, seed, and spice mix that originally hails from Egypt. This version teams buttery hazelnuts and sesame seeds with heady coriander and cumin. To enjoy it, take a slice of crusty bread and dip it in olive oil followed by the dukkah. It’s also excellent sprinkled on everything from eggs to hummus to roasted vegetables.

Featured in “Elegant Aussies” by Paul Lukacs in the March 2008 issue.

Yield: Makes 2 cups

Time: 20 minutes

¾ cup hazelnuts
½ cup sesame seeds
½ cup coriander seeds
¼ cup cumin seeds
½ tsp. black peppercorns, cracked
Baguette slices and extra-virgin olive oil, for serving

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and bake until golden, about 6 minutes. Wrap the hazelnuts in a kitchen towel and allow to cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Vigorously rub the hazelnuts in the towel to loosen the skins, then peel them completely and transfer to a food processor.
In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the sesame seeds until lightly golden, about 1 minute. Transfer to the food processor.
In the same skillet, toast the coriander seeds and cumin seeds until they are fragrant and begin to color, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the food processor and allow to cool completely, then add the black peppercorns and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs.
Serve with the baguette slices and bowls of oil for dipping.

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Lumpia (Fried Spring Rolls)

Dale Talde — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:36:52 +0000

Photo: Linda Pugliese • Food Styling: Mariana Velasquez • Prop Styling: Elvis Maynard. Photo: Linda Pugliese • Food Styling: Mariana Velasquez • Prop Styling: Elvis Maynard

Hot fried lumpia is one of our favorite global interpretations of a spring roll—the wrapper is crispy, the pork filling delicate and yielding. Instead of the standard sweet-sour dipping sauce, Filipino-American chef Dale Talde opts for the condiment he used growing up—sawsawan is a mixture of vinegar and soy sauce spiked with raw garlic and fiery chiles, which he likens to the salt and pepper of Filipino food. Look for dark, salty Filipino-style “toyo” (soy sauce) brands, like Silver Swan or Datu Puti, in your local Asian markets.

Featured in “Dale Talde Would Like to Show You the Manila of the Midwest” by JJ Goode.

Yield: Makes about 2 dozen

Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the rolls:

1 lb. ground pork
½ cup finely chopped carrot
½ cup finely chopped yellow onion
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp. fine salt, plus more for serving
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
One 14-oz. package 6-in. square spring roll wrappers
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Vegetable oil, for frying

For the dipping sauce:

1 cup white vinegar
¼ cup soy sauce
2 Tbsp. sugar
¾ tsp. black peppercorns
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 red bird’s eye chiles, stemmed and thinly sliced

Instructions

Make the rolls: Line a baking sheet with parchment. In a medium bowl, use your hands to combine the pork, carrot, onion, garlic, salt, and black pepper. Position 1 spring roll wrapper in front of you like a diamond (so that a point is facing you), and place 1 tablespoon of the pork mixture on the diamond’s bottom half. Lift the point nearest you and wrap it over the filling. Fold in the east and west corners toward the center, brush the north tip with beaten egg, and continue rolling into a tight cylinder. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling. (Save any leftover wrappers or filling for another use.)
Make the dipping sauce: In a small jar, combine the vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, peppercorns, garlic, and chiles. Shake to mix.
Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Into a large heavy pot fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour the oil to a depth of 2 inches. Turn the heat to medium-high, and when the temperature reads 350°F, fry the lumpia in batches, turning occasionally, until the wrappers are golden brown and the filling is cooked, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lumpia to the prepared baking sheet. Season with salt while hot and serve with the dipping sauce.

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Poutine

Anne-Marie White — Wed, 22 Apr 2020 14:07:11 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Quebec is synonymous with poutine, that rich, glorious mess of fried potatoes topped with beefy gravy and squeaky cheese curds. It’s a primo party snack, and making the dish from scratch is a flex your guests won’t soon forget. This recipe comes from former SAVEUR Test Kitchen Assistant and Toronto native Anne-Marie White, who stirs green peppercorns and Worcestershire into the gravy for added spicy depth. Cheese curds can be found at some regional supermarkets and online.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours 50 minutes

4 lb. unpeeled russet potatoes, scrubbed (about 4 large) and dried
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 shallot, finely chopped
4 cups beef stock, preferably homemade
2 Tbsp. ketchup
1 Tbsp. cider vinegar
1 Tbsp. green peppercorns
½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 cups cheddar cheese curds

Instructions

On a cutting board, square off the potatoes by slicing about ¼ inch from each of their 4 long sides. Cut each potato lengthwise into ¼-inch planks. Slice the planks into ¼-inch-thick fries. Transfer to a bowl, cover with cold water, and refrigerate to release the starch, about 2 hours.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking frequently, until smooth and golden, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and shallot and cook until soft, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the stock, followed by the ketchup, vinegar, green peppercorns, Worcestershire, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil, then simmer, whisking frequently, until thickened and smooth, about 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.
Line a baking sheet with paper towels and set it by the stove. Into a large pot fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour the oil to a depth of 3 inches and turn the heat to medium-high. Drain and dry the potatoes thoroughly with paper towels. When the temperature reads 325ºF, working in small batches, fry the potatoes, stirring occasionally, until limp and beginning to crisp, about 4 minutes. Turn off the heat. Using a spider skimmer, transfer to the baking sheet and set aside until cool, about 20 minutes.
Turn the heat to medium-high. When the temperature reads 375ºF, working in batches, fry the potatoes again until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the baking sheet to quickly drain, then transfer to a platter. Pour the gravy over the fries, scatter with the cheese curds, and serve immediately.

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Jalapeño Poppers

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 19 Dec 2011 10:00:00 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

The classic jalapeño popper recipe (a whole green chile, filled with cheese then roasted or fried) has roots in the Mexican chile relleno, which goes back to the 1800s or earlier. Indeed, the jalapeño popper’s flavor profile is similar to its ancestral stuffed pepper: the two share a beguiling combination of creaminess and spicy heat.

This recipe is adapted from one which first appeared in the 2012 SAVEUR 100.

Featured in “Bring Back the Jalapeño Popper!.”

Yield: makes 18 poppers

18 medium jalapeños
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for frying
4 oz. shredded cheddar cheese (about 1½ cups)
2 oz. shredded Monterey Jack cheese (about ½ cup)
1 oz. finely grated Parmesan cheese (about ½ cup)
¼ cup heavy cream
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
½ tsp. ground cumin
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
¼ tsp. ground coriander
¼ tsp. paprika
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup plain bread crumbs

Instructions

Position an oven rack 4 inches from the broiler, and preheat the broiler to high; line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Toss together the jalapeños and oil on the prepared baking sheet; broil, turning with tongs, until charred all over, about 20 minutes. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, in a food processor, blend the cheddar, Monterey Jack, Parmesan, cream, mustard, cumin, cayenne, coriander, paprika, salt, and black pepper to a smooth paste. Use a silicone spatula to scrape the cheese mixture into a piping bag fitted with an ⅛-in. plain tip.
Use a small sharp knife to trim ¼ inch off the bottom of each jalapeño and scrape to remove the seeds and ribs. (For spicier poppers, leave the seeds inside, if you like). Insert the piping bag tip into each pepper and fill with the cheese mixture. Transfer to a plate and refrigerate until the filling is firm, about 1 hour.
To three shallow bowls, add the flour, beaten egg, and bread crumbs; season each bowl with salt and black pepper. Toss each chilled pepper in the flour, shaking off excess, and then dredge in the beaten egg. Toss in the bread crumbs until well-coated, then transfer to a plate set by the stove.
To a large Dutch oven fitted with a deep-frying thermometer, pour the oil to a depth of 2 inches. Turn the heat to medium-high until the temperature reads 330°F. Working in batches, fry the peppers, turning with tongs, until golden brown all over, about 3 minutes per batch. Transfer the peppers to a paper towel-lined plate to cool before serving.

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Our Most Popular Guacamole Recipe Ever

Roberto Santibanez — Mon, 20 Sep 2021 22:50:00 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

This chunky, creamy guacamole from Mexico-born chef Roberto Santibáñez is made in the traditional manner: by first grinding the flavoring agents to a paste using a molcajete, then gently mixing in chopped avocados. Serrano chiles give this avocado dip a light heat while the acidity from fresh limes keeps it bright and zesty. Mortar and pestles may be bulky, but the grinding action is essential to making dips and pastes with a richer texture.

Featured in “The Unlikely Origins of Tableside Guacamole,” by Emily Saladino.

Yield: 4

Time: 15 minutes

¼ cup finely chopped cilantro, divided
2 Tbsp. finely chopped white onion
½ tsp. kosher salt
½ fresh serrano chile, stemmed and finely chopped (see footnote)
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 small ripe avocados, pitted and coarsely chopped
Tortilla chips, for serving

Instructions

Using a mortar and pestle, pound half the cilantro, the onion, salt, and serrano chile into a coarse paste. Add the lime juice, avocado, and remaining cilantro and pound to the desired consistency. Serve with tortilla chips.

Note: For a milder guacamole, seed the serrano chile.

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Vegetarian Samosas with Potatoes and Peas

Romy Gill — Fri, 10 Sep 2021 01:06:38 +0000

Katherine Whittaker

Chef Romy Gill credits her grandmother for the clever technique used to shape these samosas. Parcooking the wrappers renders the dough less absorbent and malleable, making them easier to fill without becoming gummy (and easier to make ahead). The assembled samosas can be refrigerated for up to 48 hours before frying. Explore more of India with all of our Indian recipes from saag paneer to urad dal to rogan josh.

Featured in: “A Secret Technique Makes This Chef’s Samosas Perfect.”

Yield: makes 20

Time: 3 hours

Ingredients

For the dough:

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
¹⁄₄ cup canola oil or sunflower oil
1 tsp. kosher salt

For the filling:

Kosher salt
3 medium Yukon gold potatoes (12 oz.), peeled and cut in ½-inch cubes
2 tsp. canola or sunflower oil, plus more for deep-frying
1 tsp. cumin seeds, plus 1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. fennel seeds, coarsely crushed in a mortar and pestle
¹⁄₃ cup fresh or thawed frozen peas
1-2 bird’s eye chiles, stemmed and finely chopped
2 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
¹⁄₃ cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
Mint or tamarind chutney, for serving

Instructions

Make the dough: To a large bowl, add the flour, oil, and salt. Rub the oil into the flour with your hands, then add ⅔ cup cool water. Mix with your hands until a dough forms.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until it forms a smooth, soft ball, 4–5 minutes. Cover the dough with a sheet of plastic wrap or a clean, dry kitchen towel and set aside to rest at room temperature for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, make the filling: To a medium pot of generously salted cold water, add the potatoes. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook until the potatoes are tender but not mushy, 12–15 minutes. Drain, then transfer the potatoes to a large bowl and set aside to cool slightly.
To a large skillet over medium heat, add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the whole cumin and crushed fennel seeds. When the spices begin to sizzle and pop, 10–20 seconds, stir in the peas and cook just until they are coated in the spiced oil and heated through. Stir in the chiles, coriander, ground cumin, and ginger; cook for 1 minute. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring frequently, just until the mixture is heated through and well mixed, 2–3 minutes more. Season with salt to taste and stir in the cilantro, then remove from the heat and set aside until cool enough to handle.
While the filling cools, divide and parcook the dough: Cut into 10 evenly sized pieces, about 2 ounces each. Roll each piece into a ball, then use a rolling pin to flatten each ball into a thin disk about 8 inches in diameter.
In a medium skillet over low heat, cook the disks of dough one at a time, searing each side to slightly dry out the surface (3–5 seconds per side). When all the disks are cooked, cut each in half (you should have 20 half-moons).

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Sweet and Sour Eggplant Satay

Vanja Van Der Leeden — Sat, 17 Jul 2021 03:59:05 +0000

Photography by Remko Kraaijeveld

Long, slender, Asian eggplant are preferable than the globe type for this vegetarian satay from chef and cookbook author Vanja Van der Leeden. The bite-sized pieces should be soft on the inside and slightly crispy and charred on the outside. Serve with a spicy and aromatic condiment, such as Sambal Tempeh with Lemon Basil or classic peanut sauce (Bumbu kacang).

This recipe is adapted from Van der Leeden’s cookbook INDOSTOK.

Featured in: “Making Indonesia-Style Satay Is All About Finding Your Grill Groove.”

Yield: makes 10 Skewers

Time: 45 minutes

Ten 10-in. bamboo skewers
1 lb. Asian eggplants
Kosher salt
One 1½-in. piece of ginger, peeled and sliced
4 medium garlic cloves, peeled
3 tbsp. kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce)
2 tbsp. hoisin sauce
2 tbsp. (1½ oz.) seedless tamarind paste
4 tbsp. vegetable oil, divided, plus extra for brushing
Sambal or peanut sauce, for serving

Instructions

To a wide container, add the skewers and enough hot water to cover. Set aside for at least half an hour while you prepare the eggplant.
Cut the eggplant into ¾-inch by ¾-inch cubes and add to a large bowl. Salt generously, toss to coat, and set aside for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a blender, add the ginger, garlic, kecap manis, hoisin sauce, tamarind paste, and 2 tablespoons of the oil; blend until smooth. Pat the eggplant pieces dry with paper towels, then pour the mixture over it, toss to coat, and set aside to marinate slightly.
In a large skillet over medium-low heat, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. When hot, add the eggplant and cook, stirring frequently, until the pieces begin to soften, 5–7 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside until cool enough to handle.
Drain the skewers and assemble the satay: Skewer the eggplant all the way to the tip of the skewers, keeping the pieces compact on one end and leaving several inches exposed on the other end.
Build a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas or electric grill to medium-high heat.
Lightly brush the eggplant with oil, then position the satay over the heat, allowing the exposed ends of the skewers to extend outside the grill, away from the flame. Cook the satay, rotating every 2 minutes, until the eggplant is lightly charred on the outside and soft in the center, 6–8 minutes. Serve hot, with sambal or peanut sauce on the side.

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Adobo Chicken Wings

Dan Holzman and Matt Rodbard — Tue, 29 Jun 2021 01:37:00 +0000

Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

Filipino Thai American chef King Phojanakong developed these bright and savory adobo chicken wings for Jimmy Carbone’s now-defunct Jimmy’s No. 43 in Manhattan. This home adaptation opts to crisp the skin under the broiler rather than in a deep fryer.

Featured in: “The Pride of the Philippines Makes a Killer Bar Snack.”

Yield: serves 4 to 6

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

10 chicken wings (about 2 lb.), tips removed, drumettes and flats separated
³⁄₄ cup plus 1 Tbsp. rice vinegar, divided
³⁄₄ cup soy sauce
¹⁄₂ tsp. whole black peppercorns
8 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bay leaves
¹⁄₂ cup mayonnaise
¹⁄₂ cup sour cream
¹⁄₄ cup finely chopped cilantro
¹⁄₂ tsp. garlic powder
¹⁄₂ tsp. ground ginger
³⁄₄ tsp. kosher salt, divided
Finely grated zest of 1 lime
1 tbsp. fresh lime juice
¹⁄₂ tsp. ancho chile powder
1 Fuji apple, cored and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

Instructions

In a large bowl, toss the chicken wings with ¾ cup rice vinegar, the soy sauce, peppercorns, garlic, bay leaves, and 1¼ cups water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil and set aside.
Transfer the wings and marinade to a medium Dutch oven, set over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil. Cover the pot, transfer to the oven, and bake until the chicken is tender, about 30 minutes. Remove the pot from the oven, uncover, and use tongs to transfer the wings to the lined baking sheet. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the wing-cooking liquid and discard the rest.
Preheat the broiler. Broil the wings, flipping once, until browned and crispy all over, 8–10 minutes.
In a small bowl, whisk together the reserved cooking liquid with the remaining 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, the mayonnaise, sour cream, cilantro, garlic powder, ginger, ½ teaspoon salt, and lime zest. In a medium bowl, toss the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt with the lime juice, chile powder, and apple slices. Serve the wings hot, with the dipping sauce and apple slices on the side.

For More Chicken Wing Recipes

Matt Taylor-Gross

Double-fried, deep-fried, coated in luscious sauces, check out all of our chicken wing recipes »

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Fluffy Fried Eggs, by Way of Bangkok

Yi Jun Loh — Sat, 01 May 2021 13:39:00 +0000

Deep frying in blazing-hot oil results in an impossibly crispy, bubbled texture. Yi Jun Loh

If you’re reading this, you’ve probably already tried your hand at making countless egg dishes. You might enjoy a tidily tucked French omelet or oozy Japanese omurice. Or perhaps you prefer custardy slow-heated scrambles or a soy-stained, soft-cooked ajitsuke tamago. But have you ever fried eggs in 400-degree oil?

Thai cooks have mastered the art of deep-frying eggs with a dish called kai jeow (ไข่เจียว), a fluffy, crackly street food distinguished by air pockets throughout and a skirt of crispy wisps. Some refer to the dish as a “Thai omelette,” but that’s an oversimplification. Where the French might enrich their omelets with a glug of milk or cream, Thais give their kai jeow a savory punch of fish sauce. Where the French would patiently wait for their eggs to coalesce in the pan before caressing an omelette into a neat pouch, Thais throw caution to the wind, pouring a stream of beaten eggs into a screaming-hot wok, letting the blazing oil do all the work. In under two minutes and with minimal effort (just one quick flip), dinner—or breakfast, or lunch—is served.

Trying to figure out who invented kai jeow is like asking who fried the first egg—it’s been a staple in Thailand for as long as anyone can remember. Nowadays, the dish is as common in Thai restaurants as eggs Benedict are in LA brunch spots, and like most egg dishes, kai jeow takes a multitude of forms. Scallions and red onions are classic add-ins, while some versions are bulked up with minced pork or prawns. Supinya Junsuta, chef of Bangkok’s hugely popular Michelin-starred Raan Jay Fai, adds crab meat to her luxurious kai jeow, which is more bulging, crackly-crisp egg-pouch than flat and eggy pancake. But a stripped-down kai jeow—one made with egg alone—is a sublime source of culinary comfort. Thai food writer and cookbook author Leela Punyaratabandhu calls the dish “a metaphor for how the best and most satisfying things in life are often plain, unadorned, and unembellished.”

I’m inclined to agree. My own love affair with the dish began on a solo trip to Bangkok in 2016, where I repeatedly demolished greasy kai jeows after long days touring temples and exploring the city. The following year, while working as a cook at a restaurant in Petaling Jaya, Malaysia, I met a chef from Myanmar named Mogs. Nobody could make kai jeow like Mogs. He had perfected his version of the dish while working at a Thai restaurant and, to my delight, made dozens of them a week for our staff family meals. I liked to peer over his shoulder as he ladled sunflower oil into a cast-iron pan, blasted the flame until the slightest shimmer of smoke appeared, then fearlessly tipped in a bowl of beaten egg. A minute later I’d be holding the still-sizzling specimen—invariably piping-hot and deliriously crisp and fluffy, with a bouncy center and just the right amount of fish sauce funk.

A splash of sweet chile sauce is all the embellishment a simple kai jeow requires. Get the recipe here. Yi Jun Loh

From Mogs, I learned to really love kai jeow, and it’s still the first thing I look for on Thai restaurant menus. But when even the fastest food delivery apps couldn’t shepherd a kai jeow to me quickly enough that its crispy texture hadn’t turned soggy, I took matters into my own hands.

“You need more oil than you think, and it must be very, very hot,” Mogs had told me, adding that a screaming-hot pan counterintuitively minimizes oil splatters and cleanup. I also solicited advice from Punyaratabandhu, who likes to whisk cornstarch or potato starch into her kai jeows. “Street vendors don’t do this,” she explained, “but for home cooks like you and me who don’t make 200 omelets a day, the addition helps make it easier to create the crispness that we want.”

I grabbed a wok and got to frying. I cracked two eggs into a bowl and beat them with a capful of fish sauce and a dash of cornstarch. Next, I poured the mixture straight into the smoking oil, holding my breath and half-closing my eyes for fear the whole mess would explode. But the technique worked like a charm: The eggs bubbled and fizzed instantly, wailing at the extreme heat and sizzling at the edges—but stayed put. I nearly forgot to flip it as I watched, mesmerized, as fractal-like egg strands formed along the sides. My finished kai jeow was pillowy and plump, with lots of crispy, wispy bits: Just like Mogs used to make.

With the speed of a line cook in the weeds, I scooped some rice onto a plate, plopped the eggs on top, and smeared the whole thing with sweet Thai chile sauce. Like the good old days, I scalded my lips on the first bite, then smiled, basking in my kai jeow’s crisp and steaming comfort.

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Our Favorite Fruit Snack

Stephanie Burt — Wed, 28 Apr 2021 17:14:07 +0000

Maneet Chauhan's chaat-centered restaurant, Chaatable in Nashville. Matt Taylor-Gross

A monthly column showcasing some of the best bites the country has to offer, Best Thing I Ate This Month celebrates American cuisine. Delve into cookbooks, home kitchens, diners, and fine-dining: Food in the United States is delicious, and this is a reminder of the good eats right down the street—or on your very own stove.

“Chaats are a mighty snack that tell India’s culinary story more adeptly than any other food,” writes chef Maneet Chauhan in her recent cookbook, Chaat. “Every chaat tells a story about the resourcefulness of the Indian people, the history of our nation, and in my opinion …. they are the very best cuisine that India has to offer.”

Just as India is full of diverse cooking traditions and regional specialties, so too is the category of chaats, a broad designation of snacks and pick-up meals served in the country’s markets, train stations, and home kitchens. The small bites may be composed of legumes, puffed rice, chutneys, fruit, fried meat, and assorted vegetables, all in varying textures and temperatures, but each should encompass the layering of sweet, salty, tart, and spicy flavors. It’s the idea of a universe of flavor in every bite.

Maneet Chauhan’s boiled peanut bhel chaat, served at the 2020 Charleston Wine and Food Festival.

“Chaat, literally translated, means ‘to lick,’ ” says Chauhan. “Almost like licking the bottom of the bowl.” And that’s exactly how I felt when I took a bite of her pineapple chaat that I recently made in my own kitchen. It was layered with flavor: sweet and sour, spicy and fresh—and I wanted another bite, and another.

Nationally recognized as a judge on Food Network’s Chopped (for which she won a James Beard award), Chauhan graduated at the top of her class at the Welcomgroup Graduate School of Hotel Administration, India’s top culinary and hotel management school. Along with her husband Vivek Deora and partner Kevin Woods, she runs Morph Hospitality Group in Nashville which includes Chauhan Ale & Masala House, Tansuo, The Mockingbird, and her newest restaurant, Chaatable.

Chef Maneet Chauchan Photo courtesy of Charleston Wine + Food

Chaatable’s opening coincided with the publication of her recent cookbook, and is located in Nashville’s Sylvan Heights neighborhood. Iconic regional chaats such as samosas and pani puri, as well as her own creative variations, rotate on a seasonal menu to buzzing crowds of diners. The restaurant is a smorgasbord of color, texture, and bedazzlement, with Chauhan in the center, expediting orders from the kitchen, greeting guests, and jumping behind the line as needed. But before she was a chef, a restaurateur, and a television celebrity, she was a chaat lover.

“Chaats are something I grew up with,” she says. “They take me back to being young. They were street food and [our parents] wouldn’t always want us eating them. But I was obsessed.” Chauhan recalls from childhood a machete-wielding chatwallah who “would cut the pineapple right in front of you and mix it with the lime juice and the spices,” before serving the fruity mix in disposable cups made of leaves.

That obsession led Chauhan to travel with co-author Jody Eddy to eat and document as many regional chaats as possible with the aim of adapting the recipes for a book. The pineapple chaat I made at home came from the Hyderabadi train station in Southern India, she tells me.

Preparing the dish at home is simple. This chaat is essentially a fruit salad and preparation is mostly chopping and tossing. The result is sweet, sour, salty, and spicy, refreshed with mint and anchored by the tropical flavor of pineapple. Even with limited local shopping choices, the only ingredient you may have trouble finding at a major supermarket is chaat masala (thankfully, Spicewalla sells an excellent version online).

Chauhan asserts that this dish’s hidden power is its versatility. In the headnote to the recipe, she mentions that she makes similar versions with mango or watermelon when in season, and occasionally drizzles the chaat with salted and thinned yogurt for an added twang. When we talk, she goes even further: “This is a great side for barbecued meats here in the South, and you can use it to top sorbet, or seafood. We’ve even made it into a cocktail with rum.”

I’ve loved eating chaats for years—pani puri is my favorite thus far—but as someone just entering the world of preparing chaats at home, that flexibility is a joy to hear. Chauhan notes that this recipe is a great place to begin your study of the category’s foundational flavors and layered textures.

“The chatwallahs were not formally trained,” she goes on, “but the fact that they perfected the art of one dish, dedicated their livelihood to it, I think that seeing that dedication played an important part of me becoming a chef.” And through Chauhan’s book, we can ourselves become dedicated to the joy of layering flavor, all starting with a fresh pineapple chaat.

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