Meat | Saveur

Dibi Hausa (Senegalese Grilled Beef Kebabs)

Pierre Thiam — Tue, 20 Jul 2021 21:18:40 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

This recipe, which appeared in Adrian Miller’s book, Black Smoke, is adapted from beef kebabs made by chef Pierre Thiam, a Senegal native, who is doing much to educate Americans about the food of his native country. It’s also a great way to get a taste of West African barbecue in a short period of time. Though this recipe calls for beef, you can use any other meat or vegetable to achieve delicious results. If using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for an hour before using. The tankora spice mix will last up to two months stored in an airtight container at room temperature.

Featured in “The Real Star Of West African-Style Grilling? This DIY-Friendly Seasoning” by Adrian Miller.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the tankora powder:

1 cup roasted, unsalted peanuts, crushed to a fine powder
1 tsp. ground ginger
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
½ tsp. ground cayenne pepper

For the kebabs:

1 lb. round steak, sliced into strips about 1½ by 2 by ⅜ in.
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. finely grated white or yellow onion
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
½ tsp. finely chopped garlic
¼ tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
1 chicken bouillon cube, crumbled (optional)
1 Tbsp. peanut or vegetable oil
1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
½ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

Make the tankora powder: In a small bowl, stir together the peanuts, ginger, salt, white pepper, and cayenne; set aside.
Prepare the kebabs: Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high. To a large bowl, add the steak, onion, tomato paste, garlic, ginger, and bouillon cube (if desired); toss to combine. Add the oil, white pepper, cayenne, and salt and toss to coat the meat evenly in the seasonings. Set aside to marinate for 10–15 minutes.
Thread a few slices of meat onto eight 6-inch skewers. Pour the reserved tankora powder onto a wide plate and roll each skewer in it, evenly coating all sides and shaking off any excess. Using a pastry brush, brush a bit more of the remaining marinade over each skewer. Transfer to the grill and cook, turning occasionally and basting with the marinade, until the meat is seared and browned all over and cooked through, 12–14 minutes. Serve hot or warm.

The post Dibi Hausa (Senegalese Grilled Beef Kebabs) appeared first on Saveur.

Georgian Beef Kharcho

Benjamin Kemper — Tue, 30 Nov 2021 02:47:45 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY: LINDA PUGLIESE; FOOD STYLIST: MARIANA VELASQUEZ; PROP STYLIST: ELVIS MAYNARD

Kharcho is a catch-all term for spicy Georgian beef stew. Though it hails from the Black Sea region of Mingrelia, today it’s a staple across many former Soviet countries. Some versions are brothy and flecked with rice, while others, like this one served at Salobie Bia in Tbilisi, are ultra-thick and all about the ground walnuts and spices. Chef Giorgi Iosava ladles his kharcho over creamy millet porridge, a comforting counterpart to the punchy, piquant stew.

Featured in “The Walnut Whisperers of Georgia,” by Benjamin Kemper.

Yield: 5

Time: 4 hours 20 minutes

2 lb. beef brisket, trimmed and cut into 1-in. pieces
Kosher salt
3 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 large onion, finely chopped (2 cups)
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
Pinch ground cloves
3 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped, or ¾ cup canned crushed tomatoes
2 cups (8 oz.) walnuts, lightly toasted
1 tsp. Aleppo pepper or crushed red chile flakes, or more to taste
1 tsp. ground coriander seeds, preferably Georgian
1 tsp. ground fenugreek seeds, preferably Georgian blue fenugreek (utskho suneli)
½ tsp. ground dried marigold petals (aka Georgian “saffron”), or ¼ tsp. ground turmeric

Instructions

Using paper towels, pat the beef dry, then season generously with salt. To a large heavy-bottomed pot over high heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add half of the beef and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate, then repeat with the remaining beef and set aside.
Turn the heat to medium-high, then, to the same pot, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking until softened, about 2 minutes more. Turn the heat to high and add the reserved beef, bay leaf, and cloves. Add hot water to cover the meat by one inch, then bring to a full boil. Turn the heat down to medium-low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat flakes when nudged with a fork, 3–3½ hours.
Meanwhile, to the bowl of a food processor, add the walnuts, Aleppo pepper, coriander, fenugreek, marigold, and ½ cup warm water, and blend until smooth.
Once the meat is tender, add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly, about 15 minutes. Stir in the walnut mixture and cook until the cooking liquid has slightly thickened and is a golden brown color, about 10 minutes more . Season with salt to taste, and serve.

The post Georgian Beef Kharcho appeared first on Saveur.

13 Sensational Skewer Recipes for July 4 Grilling

SAVEUR Editors — Sat, 15 May 2021 05:45:00 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

Homo sapiens have been threading food onto sticks and cooking it over open flame for millennia. Kebabs, shashlik, kushiyaki, satay—whatever the local moniker, nearly every culture has some succulent take on skewered protein and vegetables. That’s the beauty of kebabs: There’s a literal world of recipes out there to discover. Some are minimalist and let the main ingredient shine (meat, flame, fin), while others, such as Turkish adana kebabs and West African dibi hausa, are so lavishly spiced the neighbors might come knocking while you grill. The throughline in all of these dishes, of course, is the gratifyingly macabre step of stabbing stuff—objectively fun, no doubt, so long as you don’t accidentally skewer yourself!

Adana Kebabs (Turkish-Style Ground Lamb Skewers)

Photography by Simon Bajada

Dried chiles and red pepper paste lend this grill house classic its signature heat. Get the recipe >

Grilled Chicken Tikka Kebabs

Photography by Thomas Payne

The key to these Indian-style kebabs is the marinade, a heady mix of yogurt, lime, and a half a dozen spices. Get the recipe >

Paneer Tikka Kebabs

Photography by Thomas Payne

Skewers get stacked with creamy paneer and crisp veggies in this meatless barbecue knockout.

Machli Kebabs (Indian-Style Swordfish Skewers)

Photography by Thomas Payne

These dill-flecked kebabs from India are at their summery best when served alongside saffron rice, kachumber, and thinly sliced onions. Get the recipe >

Grilled Marinated Lamb Kebabs

Photography by Ted + Chelsea Cavanaugh

Lamb shoulder is an oft-overlooked cut that takes marvelously to marinating and grilling. Get the recipe >

Galilee-Style Grilled Fish Kebabs

Photography by Ted Cavanaugh

Once you try the spicy garlic marinade that this recipe calls for, you’ll be slathering it on everything from chicken to lamb to beef. Get the recipe >

Filipino Barbecue Chicken Skewers

Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

These craveable kebabs rely on banana ketchup for their signature tang. Get the recipe >

Shish Kebabs

Farideh Sadeghin

A lemony marinade with plenty of garlic makes these Persian-style kebabs both tender and tart. Get the recipe >

Satay Jamur (Javanese Oyster Mushroom Satay)

Photography by Remko Kraaijeveld

The classic Indonesian street food from the island of Java takes mushrooms to new, meaty heights. Get the recipe >

Dibi Hausa (West African Grilled Beef Kebabs with Tankora Spice)

Photography by Belle Morizio

A ginger-garlic marinade and a roll in spicy crushed peanuts add flavor and texture to these barbecued skewers. Get the recipe >

Sweet and Sour Eggplant Satay

Photography by Remko Kraaijeveld

Bite-size chunks of velvety charred eggplant are now a staple in our summer grilling rotation, thanks to this deceptively simple satay recipe inspired by Indonesian street vendors. Get the recipe >

Satay Udang (Shrimp Satay)

Photography by Belle Morizio

Ground candlenuts mellow out this spicy shrimp satay that hails from coastal Singapore. Get the recipe >

Mitarashi Dango (Japanese Rice Dumplings with Sweet Soy Glaze)

Photography by Linda Pugliese; Food Styling by Jason Schreiber; Prop Styling by Elvis Maynard

These soft glutinous rice balls with a sweet soy glaze are festival food in Japan, but they’re equally satisfying as dessert at home. Get the recipe >

The post 13 Sensational Skewer Recipes for July 4 Grilling appeared first on Saveur.

Foda à Moda de Monção

Joana Santiago — Mon, 09 May 2022 03:21:08 +0000

Photo: Linda Pugliese • Food Styling: Christine Albano • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Photo: Linda Pugliese • Food Styling: Christine Albano • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart

Foda à moda de Monção is a traditional dish from Portugal’s Vinho Verde region. This recipe, adapted from one shared with us by local winemaker Joana Santiago, was originally cooked in a wood-fired oven, then finished and served in a terra cotta “torto” roaster. The oblong pot is conveniently shaped in such a way that the leg rests directly over the rice, allowing heat to circulate all around it while still letting its flavorful juices drip into the saffron-scented rice below. (These inexpensive and attractive roasters are available online from Portugalia Marketplace.)

For those of us restricted to modern stoves, our recipe testers also found that starting the meat in a Dutch oven, then finishing it on a wire rack positioned over a roasting pan got them pretty darned close to the classic, wood-fired version. For wine, Santiago suggests forgoing the expected reds and instead serving this fragrant and celebratory meat dish with a full-bodied and lightly oaked white alvarinho, such as her own Quinta de Santiago “SOU.”

Featured in: “In Portugal’s Vinho Verde, Wine Is Green in More Ways Than One.”

Yield: serves 12

Time: 24 hours 55 minutes

¼ cups plus 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided
1 medium lemon, halved
1 7–8 lb. leg of lamb
1 small yellow onion, coarsely chopped
¼ cups red wine vinegar
1 medium garlic cloves, peeled
3 tbsp. lard or canola oil
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
5 cups pork or chicken broth
½ cups alvarinho or other dry white wine
¼ tsp. saffron
2½ cups carolino rice (or substitute bomba or arborio)
1 tbsp. kosher salt
6 strips (4 oz.) bacon

Instructions

24 hours before you plan to roast the lamb, make the brine: In a large bowl, plastic container, or nonreactive baking dish, whisk together ¼ cup salt, a squeezed half a lemon, and 8 cups of warm water until the salt is dissolved. Set side to cool to room temperature. When the brine is cool to the touch, add the lamb (the meat should be just about completely submerged in the liquid; if it is not, transfer to a smaller container so that it is). Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 and up to 24 hours, turning the leg over halfway through to ensure that any parts of the meat that are not covered by the brine are submerged.
Make the marinade: To a blender, add the onion, vinegar, lard, garlic, black pepper, and the remaining salt and blend until smooth.
Remove the lamb from the brine and transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet. Pat the meat dry with paper towels, then pour the onion mixture all over the leg, turning a few times to coat the lamb in the marinade. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and transfer to the fridge to marinate for at least 12 and up to 24 hours.
Preheat the oven (with one of its racks positioned in the center) to 325ºF.
Retrieve the lamb from the fridge, then transfer it to a large Dutch oven and cover with a lid. Transfer to the oven and cook until the lamb is tender and starting to fall off the bone, 3–3½ hours. Remove and turn the oven up to 350ºF.
To a medium pot set over medium-high heat, add the broth and wine and bring just up to simmer, then remove from the heat, stir in the saffron, set aside to steep.
In a large, terracotta torto or other large roasting pan, stir together the rice, the saffron broth and ¼ cup of the cooking juices from the lamb. Position a wire roasting rack or several long metal skewers over the top of the pan, then carefully transfer the lamb to rest atop the rack or skewers, positioned directly over but not in direct contact with the liquid below. Lay the bacon strips over the top of the meat, then transfer the entire dish to the oven. Roast until the rice is fully cooked and has absorbed all of its liquid and the lamb is golden and crispy all over, 40–50 minutes.
Transfer the lamb to a large platter and carve into large, shaggy chunks. Serve with the saffron rice on the side.

The post Foda à Moda de Monção appeared first on Saveur.

Shahi Goat Korma

Sahil Rahman — Thu, 21 Apr 2022 00:41:35 +0000

Photography by Linda Pugliese; Food Styling by Christine Albano; Prop Styling by Carla Gonzalez-Hart

Originating in South Asia’s Mughal Empire, korma (also spelled “qorma”) was frequently prepared in royal Mughal kitchens. These days, made with goat, chicken, or simply vegetables, korma is typically associated with celebrations. Sahil Rahman, co-founder of the Washington, DC Indian restaurant, Rasa, loves to eat his Dolly Auntie’s goat korma for Eid—so much so that the holiday is incomplete without it in the Rahman household. Eaten with rice or naan, the stew is thoughtfully layered with warm spices including green and black cardamom, cumin, clove, and cinnamon. There’s also the addition of black cumin seed, a darker, thinner, and sweeter cousin of the more common brown cumin which is easily found in South Asian markets or specialty stores like Kalustyan’s. What sets this dish apart from more everyday South Asian stews is the addition of yogurt, which results in a luscious, soul-filling mouthful.

We’ve adjusted Dolly Auntie’s recipe here for use in an Instapot, but feel free to cook it traditionally—low and slow on the stove—or how Auntie likes to make it, using a pressure cooker. Just make sure to keep an eye on the heat and adjust as needed as the stew cooks.

Yield: serves 12

Time: 24 hours 55 minutes

¼ cups plus 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided
1 medium lemon, halved
1 7–8 lb. leg of lamb
1 small yellow onion, coarsely chopped
¼ cups red wine vinegar
1 medium garlic cloves, peeled
3 tbsp. lard or canola oil
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
5 cups pork or chicken broth
½ cups alvarinho or other dry white wine
¼ tsp. saffron
2½ cups carolino rice (or substitute bomba or arborio)
1 tbsp. kosher salt
6 strips (4 oz.) bacon

Instructions

24 hours before you plan to roast the lamb, make the brine: In a large bowl, plastic container, or nonreactive baking dish, whisk together ¼ cup salt, a squeezed half a lemon, and 8 cups of warm water until the salt is dissolved. Set side to cool to room temperature. When the brine is cool to the touch, add the lamb (the meat should be just about completely submerged in the liquid; if it is not, transfer to a smaller container so that it is). Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 and up to 24 hours, turning the leg over halfway through to ensure that any parts of the meat that are not covered by the brine are submerged.
Make the marinade: To a blender, add the onion, vinegar, lard, garlic, black pepper, and the remaining salt and blend until smooth.
Remove the lamb from the brine and transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet. Pat the meat dry with paper towels, then pour the onion mixture all over the leg, turning a few times to coat the lamb in the marinade. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and transfer to the fridge to marinate for at least 12 and up to 24 hours.
Preheat the oven (with one of its racks positioned in the center) to 325ºF.
Retrieve the lamb from the fridge, then transfer it to a large Dutch oven and cover with a lid. Transfer to the oven and cook until the lamb is tender and starting to fall off the bone, 3–3½ hours. Remove and turn the oven up to 350ºF.
To a medium pot set over medium-high heat, add the broth and wine and bring just up to simmer, then remove from the heat, stir in the saffron, set aside to steep.
In a large, terracotta torto or other large roasting pan, stir together the rice, the saffron broth and ¼ cup of the cooking juices from the lamb. Position a wire roasting rack or several long metal skewers over the top of the pan, then carefully transfer the lamb to rest atop the rack or skewers, positioned directly over but not in direct contact with the liquid below. Lay the bacon strips over the top of the meat, then transfer the entire dish to the oven. Roast until the rice is fully cooked and has absorbed all of its liquid and the lamb is golden and crispy all over, 40–50 minutes.
Transfer the lamb to a large platter and carve into large, shaggy chunks. Serve with the saffron rice on the side.

The post Shahi Goat Korma appeared first on Saveur.

Braised Lamb Belly with Lemon, Harissa, and White Wine

Kevin O'Donnell — Wed, 13 Apr 2022 21:26:19 +0000

Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Rebecca Jurkevich; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Chef Kevin O’Donnell of Newport, Rhode Island restaurant Giusto serves this spiced and aromatic braised lamb belly paired with buttery peas and crispy roasted potatoes for Easter dinner. If you can find it, seek out a rose petal harissa for the braising liquid—O’Donnell likes the Belazu brand.

Featured in “Ditch Your Usual Easter Roast For This “Freestyle” Italian Braise.”

Yield: serves 12

Time: 24 hours 55 minutes

¼ cups plus 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided
1 medium lemon, halved
1 7–8 lb. leg of lamb
1 small yellow onion, coarsely chopped
¼ cups red wine vinegar
1 medium garlic cloves, peeled
3 tbsp. lard or canola oil
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
5 cups pork or chicken broth
½ cups alvarinho or other dry white wine
¼ tsp. saffron
2½ cups carolino rice (or substitute bomba or arborio)
1 tbsp. kosher salt
6 strips (4 oz.) bacon

Instructions

24 hours before you plan to roast the lamb, make the brine: In a large bowl, plastic container, or nonreactive baking dish, whisk together ¼ cup salt, a squeezed half a lemon, and 8 cups of warm water until the salt is dissolved. Set side to cool to room temperature. When the brine is cool to the touch, add the lamb (the meat should be just about completely submerged in the liquid; if it is not, transfer to a smaller container so that it is). Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 and up to 24 hours, turning the leg over halfway through to ensure that any parts of the meat that are not covered by the brine are submerged.
Make the marinade: To a blender, add the onion, vinegar, lard, garlic, black pepper, and the remaining salt and blend until smooth.
Remove the lamb from the brine and transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet. Pat the meat dry with paper towels, then pour the onion mixture all over the leg, turning a few times to coat the lamb in the marinade. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and transfer to the fridge to marinate for at least 12 and up to 24 hours.
Preheat the oven (with one of its racks positioned in the center) to 325ºF.
Retrieve the lamb from the fridge, then transfer it to a large Dutch oven and cover with a lid. Transfer to the oven and cook until the lamb is tender and starting to fall off the bone, 3–3½ hours. Remove and turn the oven up to 350ºF.
To a medium pot set over medium-high heat, add the broth and wine and bring just up to simmer, then remove from the heat, stir in the saffron, set aside to steep.
In a large, terracotta torto or other large roasting pan, stir together the rice, the saffron broth and ¼ cup of the cooking juices from the lamb. Position a wire roasting rack or several long metal skewers over the top of the pan, then carefully transfer the lamb to rest atop the rack or skewers, positioned directly over but not in direct contact with the liquid below. Lay the bacon strips over the top of the meat, then transfer the entire dish to the oven. Roast until the rice is fully cooked and has absorbed all of its liquid and the lamb is golden and crispy all over, 40–50 minutes.
Transfer the lamb to a large platter and carve into large, shaggy chunks. Serve with the saffron rice on the side.

The post Braised Lamb Belly with Lemon, Harissa, and White Wine appeared first on Saveur.

The 8 Best Places to Buy Meat Online When You Can’t Get to the Local Butcher

Alexandra Ilyashov — Tue, 18 May 2021 06:28:00 +0000

Claudia Totir / Getty Images

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Conscientious and discerning carnivores, take note: you don’t need to venture far from home to source dry-aged porterhouse or succulent grass-finished beef. In fact, you don’t have to leave your kitchen (or couch) at all. According to chefs, the best cuts can be purchased online—if you know where to look.

“I think many of us in the food community are becoming more mindful about what meat we eat and how often we eat it,” says Emily Fedner, a New York-based cook and co-founder of pop-up dinner series Petite Pasta Joint. Indeed, the must-haves versus nice-to-haves of how animals are raised and meat is produced make for some extremely personal choices, mired in various ethical, sustainability, and budgetary considerations. You don’t have to compromise to find the ideal cut, though. Ahead, we spoke with chefs to uncover the eight best places to buy meat online, whether you’re looking to order in bulk or prefer to support local farms and butchers.

Best Overall: Debragga
Best Frozen: D’Artagnan
Best for Lamb: Silver Fern Farms
Best for Big Groups: Vermont Natural Beef
Best Grass-Fed Pasture-Finished: Acabonac Farms
Best Locally Sourced: Dickson’s Farmstand Meats
Best for Cured Meats: Despaña Brands
Best Splurge: Cinco Jotas

Considerations

Meat Grade and Transparency

Meat is typically graded for quality—assessing tenderness, juiciness, and flavor— as well as yield, or the amount of usable meat is in a particular cut. The USDA’s beef grading is Prime, Choice, and Select, and higher-graded meat is typically from younger cattle and has more fat marbling.

Transparency can also be a very important factor in terms of sustainability and ethical farming practices—like much of the food industry, many online purveyors tout local sourcing, environmentally-friendly packaging, and/or humanely raised animals.

Fresh vs Frozen

For Cédric Vongerichten, chef and owner of French-Indonesian restaurant Wayan, meat “100% has to be fresh. When it’s fresh, the quality is unmatched,” he notes. There’s an exception to that rule, though. Meat quality doesn’t deteriorate if it’s kept at minus 76 degrees Fahrenheit, explains chef Michele Casadei Massari, executive chef and owner of Italian restaurant Lucciola. For example, he prefers getting A5 Wagyu “super frozen” due to the premium cut’s high content of perishable fat.

Packaging

Massari suggests ordering meat that is tightly vacuum packed to avoid unwanted bacteria, though he notes that this will only ensure it arrives fresh, not stays fresh. Vongerichten looks for compostable materials, and tries to “avoid at all costs anything that won’t break down naturally, like plastic or styrofoam.”

Individual, Bundles, and Specialized Boxes

This comes down to a matter of personal preference as well as the occasion: specialized boxes make for great holiday gifts, while bundles are ideal for entertaining a crowd. Bundles usually consist of different pre-selected cuts and can offer more value than buying a la carte. They are also a nice way to sample a variety of meat types and maybe even find a new favorite cut in the process.

Our Top Picks

Best Overall: Debragga

Massari raves about Debragga’s meat quality and grade, as well as their knowledge about different cuts and sourcing methods. “Their website is more than just a repository of items; it’s like talking to them directly and taking advantage of their expertise and honest approach to the world of meat,” he says. A few of his favorite cuts are the 36-ounce Prima Reserve Niman Ranch, dry aged Porter House (aged for 45 days), bone-in 20-ounce NY Strip wagyu, 28-ounce Frenched cowboy steak wagyu, Miyazaki Ribroll A5, 16-ounce Australian Wagyu Boneless Ribeye (which has an 8-9 grade, he notes), the “outstanding” Elysian Fields Lamb, and 14-ounce Gloucester Pork Chop. Both Massari and Vongerichten praise Debragga’s excellent specialty sets, which Massari likes for holiday gift giving, both personal or professional.

Best for Frozen: D’Artagnan

Felipe Donnelly, partner and executive chef at Colonia Verde and Disco Tacos restaurants, says D’Artagnan is his favorite place to buy meat “without a doubt.” “The quality is superior to anything else I have tried, and I trust where their meat is coming from,” he says of the company’s impressive sourcing transparency. Its shipping and packaging protocols are topnotch, too: “The majority of their meat arrives vacuum sealed and frozen, guaranteeing flavor.” We particularly appreciate the eco-friendly packaging, which is completely compostable. He says his “obsessions” are the brand’s pork chops, ribeye steaks, and moulard duck breasts. Vongerichten is a fan of D’Artagnan’s specialized boxes, if you’d rather opt for a set instead of a la carte cuts.

Best for Lamb: Silver Fern Farms

Emily Fedner is “beyond impressed” with the quality of Silver Fern Farms’ humanely-raised lamb and beef, which are grass-fed and pasture-raised in New Zealand, “so you can almost taste the terroir.” Plus, the company’s online ordering set-up is “super easy” to navigate, Fedner says, thanks to options that allow you to mix and match or order bundles. She prefers the company’s lamb steak, which she recommends dusting with salt, pepper, and cumin seeds, grilling for three minutes on each side, and serving over plov, an Uzbek rice pilaf.

Best for Big Groups: Vermont Natural Beef

If you’re planning a big cookout like an extended family reunion or birthday bash, or prefer the double-whammy of savings and superior sourcing that CSAs or food co-ops provide, consider Vermont Natural Beef. “It’s a small family farm, so you have to order in advance, and you can only purchase quarter- or half-cows, so they recommend you go in on a share with others,” says Stephanie Venetsky, a New York-based chef and nutrition expert.

Best Grass-Fed Pasture-Finished: Acabonac Farms

Guiding priorities and values when it comes to meat sourcing are so subjective; for Ventesky, grass-fed, pasture-finished is “paramount” while local is ideal, but secondary. “Without the pasture-finished indicator, cows can be loaded up on grain towards the end of their life, after living on grass for a brief time,” she explains. (Pasture-finished meat is a more specific type of grass-fed, but not all grass-fed meat is pasture-finished, she notes.) Venetsky says she orders grass-finished beef most frequently from Long Island-based Acabonac Farms, because “the quality and taste is unmatched,” in addition to their great service and quick shipping.

Best Locally Sourced: Dickson’s Farmstand Meats

If provenance and ethics are top priorities, Dickson’s Farmstand Meats sources solely from small, family-run farms in Upstate New York and handpicked for their humanely-raised, high-quality animals. “The farms are selected based on quality, commitment to sustainability, and human handling practices,” says Vongerichten, with a number of supply chain requirements in place. Farms must be no more than 400 miles away, not use any animal-based feeds, prophylactics antibiotics, and added hormones, and their animals must spend their entire lives on a farm versus CAFOS or feedlots.

Best for Cured Meats: Despaña Brands

Ruben Rodriguez, chef and partner of Nai Restaurant Group, swears by Despaña Brands for imported cured meats. “Being from Spain, quality cold cuts are a main part of my cuisine; a Spanaird must always have lomo, chorizo, jamon, and salchichon” at the ready, Rodriguez says. “Despaña offers some of the best, and large variety of, Iberico meats that you can possibly import,” available individually-packed so they’re cost-friendly and easy to store for home cooks.

“The wonderful thing about cured meats, aside from being delicious, is that you don’t have to panic about how far it was shipped from or if it took an extra day to deliver,” Rodriguez says. “They will remain in perfect condition for months” when properly stored so they’re lower-maintenance than fresh or even frozen meats. Plus, they’re extremely easy to prep: “As a chef, I cook all day long, so when I get home I simply peel the plastic off these packaged meats, let them get to room temperature, cut some bread and eat. That is the perfect night!” he says. The ease of storing and prepping cured meats is relevant for home cooks as well as the pros (think: a busy workweek, menu-planning malaise, pandemic cooking fatigue.)

Best Splurge: Cinco Jotas

Rodriguez also buys top-grade, acorn-fed jamon iberico, from Cinco Jotas, “considered by many to be the most exclusive gourmet ham in the world,” he says. “It’s on the pricey side because of its quality as well as the safety protocols,” such as “secure temperature and humidity controlled packaging technology to assure safe transportation,” Rodriguez says. Sold by the leg, Cinco Jotas’ ham is perfect for large gatherings or events— “but personally I always have a leg at home, slowly devouring it for breakfast, lunch and dinner.”

The post The 8 Best Places to Buy Meat Online When You Can’t Get to the Local Butcher appeared first on Saveur.

Budae Jjigae

Eric Kim — Fri, 25 Mar 2022 23:18:21 +0000

Budae jjigae is a really delicious way to feed a crowd in one fell swoop, using mostly pantry ingredients. All you need is the pot, a ladle, and a few bowls of white rice to soak up all the accoutrements, a landing pad for the cheese. Don’t sleep on the rich soup, fortified with all of those incredible canned meats. It tastes special, and lived in. It helps that everyone I’ve ever served this dish to seems to love it, especially once you add the ramyun noodles.]

The word “ramyun” refers to Korean-style instant noodles. Where Korean ramyun is always

instant, Japanese ramen can be fresh or instant. The brand here doesn’t matter so much. Though Shin is arguably the most popular, cookbook author Eric Kim enjoys the chewiness of Samyang and Jin, but use whatever you like and whatever you have on hand.

Featured in “For My Family, This Complex Korean American Dish Represents Celebration.”

Yield: serves 6

Time: 35 minutes

Ingredients

For the sauce:

2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tbsp. gochugaru
2 tbsp. gochujang
2 tbsp. soup soy sauce
1 tsp. sugar

For the stew:

4 oz. Korean radish, thinly sliced into 2-in. squares
¹⁄₂ medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
¹⁄₂ can Spam (about 6 ounces), thickly sliced into 2-in. squares
1 lb. assorted sausages, such as sweet Italian sausages, Vienna sausages, and hot dogs, cut into bite-size pieces
4 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into bite-size pieces
1 cup coarsely chopped napa cabbage kimchi, store-bought or homemade
1 large jalapeño, halved, seeded, and thinly sliced crosswise
2 daepa or 4 large scallions, thinly sliced on the diagonal
1 package instant ramyun noodles, seasoning packs reserved for another time
1 slice American cheese
Cooked white rice, for serving

Instructions

Make the sauce: In a small dish, stir together the garlic, gochugaru, gochujang, soup soy sauce, and sugar.
Make the stew: In a large, wide pot, neatly arrange—in groups—the Korean radish, onion, Spam, sausages, bacon, kimchi, jalapeño, daepa, and the prepared sauce. Add 4 cups of water, set over high heat, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to medium-low and gently boil until the bacon and any raw sausage is cooked through, 15–20 minutes.
Add the ramyun noodles and let cook according to package directions. Remove from the heat and blanket the slice of cheese over the cooked noodles. Serve the budae jjigae immediately with white rice.

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Catalan Braised Pork Ribs With Chestnuts

Benjamin Kemper — Wed, 19 Jan 2022 03:01:07 +0000

Photo: Linda Pugliese • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Elvis Maynard. Photo: Linda Pugliese • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Elvis Maynard

Joan Roca, chef of the three-Michelin-star Celler de Can Roca in Girona and one of Spain’s most revered culinary figures, grew up on simple Catalan comfort food prepared by his mother, Montserrat. This saucy braise of pork ribs and chestnuts was one of his favorite childhood dishes. Adapted from Roca’s cookbook Cocina Madre, this recipe calls for the classic Catalan blend called a picada—a nutty, garlicky paste bashed up in a mortar and pestle—which you’ll whisk in just before serving for a pop of flavor and texture. Buy peeled chestnuts in specialty stores or online, or peel your own: Cut an “x” into the tip of each chestnut, then boil for 20 minutes; when cool enough to handle, use your fingers to remove the woody exterior and brown papery layer.

Featured in: “Joan Roca on Catalan Comfort Food, Kitchen Culture, and the Future of Fine Dining.”

Yield: 4

Time: 2 hours

1 rack of pork ribs (about 2 lb.), cut into individual ribs
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cups olive oil or lard, divided
2 medium onions, finely chopped
5 garlic cloves, 4 finely chopped, 1 whole
2 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 lb. peeled chestnuts
15 almonds
2 small almond biscotti, coarsely ground (½ cup)
Finely chopped parsley, for garnish

Instructions

Using paper towels, pat the ribs dry, then season generously with salt and black pepper. To a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add half of the ribs and cook, turning occasionally, until browned all over, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a plate, then repeat with the remaining ribs; set aside.
Turn the heat to medium. To the empty skillet, add the remaining oil and the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened slightly and translucent, about 7 minutes. Add the chopped garlic and tomatoes and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have broken down and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 15 minutes more.
Add the reserved ribs to the pot, pour over enough water to barely cover (about 5 cups), and turn the heat to high. When the liquid boils, partially cover and turn the heat to medium-low. Cook until the ribs are tender and the meat flakes when nudged with a fork, 1¼–1½ hours.
Meanwhile, par-cook the chestnuts: To a small pot set over high heat, add the chestnuts and cover with water. When the water boils, turn the heat to medium and cook until softened slightly, about 12 minutes; drain, discarding the liquid.
Add the chestnuts to the pot with the ribs and stir gently to combine. Cook to marry the flavors, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, make a picada: Using a mortar and pestle, pound the remaining garlic to a paste, then add the almonds and biscotti and pound until finely ground. Stir the picada into the pot with the ribs, then turn off the heat, cover, and let rest for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the parsley, and serve.

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Moroccan-Style Honey-Braised Lamb Shanks

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:23 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID MALOSH; FOOD STYLIST: SIMON ANDREWS; PROP STYLING: SUMMER MOORE

Lamb shanks are braised for hours with a sweet sauce of honey, almonds, and raisins in this centuries-old Moroccan dish served at Mansouria in Paris. For a more aesthetic presentation, french-cut the shanks. (Frenching is the culinary term for removing meat, fat, and sinew to reveal the clean bone.) The North African spice blend ras el hanout is available at most supermarkets.

Featured in: “Couscous Royale.”

Yield: serves 4

¼ cups olive oil
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
4 lamb shanks, frenched, if desired
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 large white onion, finely chopped
1 cup golden raisins
2 tbsp. ras el hanout (available at The Spice House, or make your own)
¼ tsp. crushed saffron threads
1 stick cinnamon
1 cup blanched whole almonds
⅔ cups honey
Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish

Instructions

To a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, add the oil and butter. Season the lamb all over with salt and black pepper. When the fat is hot and shimmering, add the lamb and cook, turning occasionally, until the meat is well browned on all sides, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
To the empty Dutch oven, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the raisins, ras el hanout, saffron, and cinnamon stick, and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the almonds, honey, 3 cups of water, and the reserved lamb. When the liquid boils, turn the heat to medium and cook, partially covered, until the lamb is very tender, about 3½ hours.
To serve, divide the shanks among four plates, ladle over the cooking liquid, and sprinkle each portion with sesame seeds.

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Coffee-Crusted Beef Tenderloin

Robert Del Grande — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:25 +0000

Photography by Maura McEvoy

One Christmas morning in the mid-1990s, chef Robert Del Grande spilled coffee grounds all over the cutting board he was about to use to prep the day’s roasts—and he decided to just go with it. “He thought back on a conversation he’d once had with a friend about the meaty quality of coffee,” wrote Margo True in a November 2006 story about Del Grande’s Cafe Annie in Houston. “In a second, he was rolling the filets in the coffee. The ground beans formed a rich, unctuous crust.” Today the place is called the Annie Cafe & Bar, but Del Grande remains its executive chef, and coffee-crusted tenderloin beef is still on the menu. For more of our very best Christmas dinners, check out all of our recipes here.

Featured in: “This Christmas, Consider the Cow.”

Yield: serves 8

Time: 3 hours

4 guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
4 medium garlic cloves, peeled
2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo
¹⁄₂ small white onion, finely chopped (about ¼ cup)
¹⁄₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 tbsp. light brown sugar
2 tbsp. red wine vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
One 2-lb. beef tenderloin roast, tied with butcher’s twine at ½-in. intervals
3 tbsp. very finely ground coffee
1 tbsp. cocoa powder
¹⁄₈ tsp. ground cinnamon

Instructions

In a large, dry skillet over medium heat, toast the guajillo and ancho chiles, turning occasionally, until fragrant, 4–5 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl, cover with warm water, and soak until softened, 20–25 minutes.
In a blender, puree the softened chiles, 1 cup of their soaking liquid, and the garlic, chipotles, and onion until smooth.
Make the chile sauce: In a small pot over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil until it shimmers, then add the chile mixture, lower heat to low, and cook, stirring frequently, until thickened but still pourable, about 30 minutes. Add the brown sugar and vinegar, and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until further thickened to a loose paste, 12–14 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper, remove from heat, and let cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Rub the roast with the remaining olive oil, season generously with salt and pepper, then brush all over with 2 tablespoons of the chile sauce (save any remainder for another use).
In a large bowl, stir together the coffee, cocoa powder, and cinnamon, then roll the roast in the mixture to coat. Transfer to a large, rimmed baking sheet fitted with a wire rack and allow to marinate for 30 minutes.
Roast the meat for 15 minutes, then lower the temperature to 225°F. Continue roasting until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 120°F for rare, 12–14 minutes. Let rest at room temperature for 15 minutes, then cut away and discard the twine, and slice against the grain before serving.

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