African | Saveur

Dibi Hausa (Senegalese Grilled Beef Kebabs)

Pierre Thiam — Tue, 20 Jul 2021 21:18:40 +0000

Belle Morizio. Belle Morizio

This recipe, which appeared in Adrian Miller’s book, Black Smoke, is adapted from beef kebabs made by chef Pierre Thiam, a Senegal native, who is doing much to educate Americans about the food of his native country. It’s also a great way to get a taste of West African barbecue in a short period of time. Though this recipe calls for beef, you can use any other meat or vegetable to achieve delicious results. If using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for an hour before using. The tankora spice mix will last up to two months stored in an airtight container at room temperature.

Featured in “The Real Star Of West African-Style Grilling? This DIY-Friendly Seasoning” by Adrian Miller.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the tankora powder:

1 cup roasted, unsalted peanuts, crushed to a fine powder
1 tsp. ground ginger
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
½ tsp. ground cayenne pepper

For the kebabs:

1 lb. round steak, sliced into strips about 1½ by 2 by ⅜ in.
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. finely grated white or yellow onion
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
½ tsp. finely chopped garlic
¼ tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
1 chicken bouillon cube, crumbled (optional)
1 Tbsp. peanut or vegetable oil
1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
½ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

Make the tankora powder: In a small bowl, stir together the peanuts, ginger, salt, white pepper, and cayenne; set aside.
Prepare the kebabs: Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high. To a large bowl, add the steak, onion, tomato paste, garlic, ginger, and bouillon cube (if desired); toss to combine. Add the oil, white pepper, cayenne, and salt and toss to coat the meat evenly in the seasonings. Set aside to marinate for 10–15 minutes.
Thread a few slices of meat onto eight 6-inch skewers. Pour the reserved tankora powder onto a wide plate and roll each skewer in it, evenly coating all sides and shaking off any excess. Using a pastry brush, brush a bit more of the remaining marinade over each skewer. Transfer to the grill and cook, turning occasionally and basting with the marinade, until the meat is seared and browned all over and cooked through, 12–14 minutes. Serve hot or warm.

The post Dibi Hausa (Senegalese Grilled Beef Kebabs) appeared first on Saveur.

Braaibroodjie (South African Grilled Cheese)

Andy Fenner — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:32:14 +0000

Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Barrett Washburne • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Photo: Paola + Murray • Food Styling: Barrett Washburne • Prop Styling: Carla Gonzalez-Hart

Cape Town-based butcher Andy Fenner serves these cheesy sandwiches called braaibroodjie (“barbecue bread”) with beer. His version stacks slices with cheddar, tomato, onions, and chutney before grilling. The chutney is key: Mrs. Ball’s, an iconic brand in South Africa, is made from dried fruits and vinegar, but any sweet-and-sour chutney will do.

Featured in “The South African Art of Braai” by Mark Byrne.

Yield: Makes 4 sandwiches

Time: 25 minutes

8 slices white bread
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
8½ oz. coarsely grated sharp cheddar cheese (2 cups)
1 large tomato, thinly sliced
½ large white onion, very thinly sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. sweet-and-sour chutney, preferably Mrs. Ball’s

Instructions

Heat a grill (or large grill pan or cast iron skillet) to medium-high. Meanwhile, brush one side of each bread slice with the melted butter.
Place the bread, buttered-side down, on a clean work surface. Divide the cheese evenly among 4 slices of the bread, then top each with 1–2 slices of tomato and onion. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Spread the chutney on the remaining slices of bread, then place them chutney-side down on top of the tomato and onion to close the sandwiches.
Grill the sandwiches, turning once, until the bread is toasted and the cheese is melted, about 6 minutes total. Serve hot.

The post Braaibroodjie (South African Grilled Cheese) appeared first on Saveur.

Dukkah

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:18 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Dukkah is a coarsely ground nut, seed, and spice mix that originally hails from Egypt. This version teams buttery hazelnuts and sesame seeds with heady coriander and cumin. To enjoy it, take a slice of crusty bread and dip it in olive oil followed by the dukkah. It’s also excellent sprinkled on everything from eggs to hummus to roasted vegetables.

Featured in “Elegant Aussies” by Paul Lukacs in the March 2008 issue.

Yield: Makes 2 cups

Time: 20 minutes

¾ cup hazelnuts
½ cup sesame seeds
½ cup coriander seeds
¼ cup cumin seeds
½ tsp. black peppercorns, cracked
Baguette slices and extra-virgin olive oil, for serving

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and bake until golden, about 6 minutes. Wrap the hazelnuts in a kitchen towel and allow to cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Vigorously rub the hazelnuts in the towel to loosen the skins, then peel them completely and transfer to a food processor.
In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the sesame seeds until lightly golden, about 1 minute. Transfer to the food processor.
In the same skillet, toast the coriander seeds and cumin seeds until they are fragrant and begin to color, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the food processor and allow to cool completely, then add the black peppercorns and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs.
Serve with the baguette slices and bowls of oil for dipping.

The post Dukkah appeared first on Saveur.

Sombi (Senegalese Coconut Rice Pudding)

Pierre Thiam — Tue, 03 Oct 2023 16:30:00 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Rice cultivation is the lifeblood of Casamance, the area of Senegal from which sombi, a coconut rice pudding, originates. At sunset, one feels a special silence around the paddies as the rice shoots sway, captives of the gentle breeze. The tranquility of that scene is one of chef Pierre Thiam’s most vivid memories of home. He finishes the classic Senegalese dessert with caramelized mango for brightness and toasted coconut for texture.

This recipe is adapted with permission from Yolele! Recipes From the Heart of Senegal by Pierre Thiam (Lake Isle Press, 2008).

Yield: 4-6

Time: 35 minutes

½ cup honey
2 mangoes, peeled and sliced lengthwise
2 cups coconut milk
½ cup unsweetened shredded coconut, divided
¼ cup sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped, or 1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup cooked white rice, preferably long-grain
1 Tbsp. lime juice
Pinch kosher salt

Instructions

In a skillet set over medium heat, cook the honey until bubbly. Using tongs, dip the mango slices in the honey to coat; cook until golden-brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
To a medium pot set over medium heat, add the coconut milk, 6 tablespoons of the shredded coconut, the sugar, and vanilla and cook, stirring frequently, until thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Reserve ½ cup of the sauce and set aside.
To a skillet set over low heat, add the remaining shredded coconut and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly golden-brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Set the pot with the coconut milk mixture over medium-low heat, add the rice, and cook, stirring frequently, until all the liquid is absorbed, about 5 minutes. Stir in the lime juice and salt and discard the vanilla pod.
Transfer the rice pudding to serving bowls. Dividing evenly among the bowls, drizzle the reserved sauce around the edges of the pudding, lay the mango slices atop the pudding, and garnish with the toasted shredded coconut. Serve warm.

The post Sombi (Senegalese Coconut Rice Pudding) appeared first on Saveur.

Chicken Couscous with Caramelized Onion and Raisin Tfaya

Jeff Koehler — Tue, 29 Aug 2023 21:08:10 +0000

In this classic Moroccan recipe adapted from Jeff Koehler’s new book The North African Cookbook, sweet and savory flavors are subtly layered together, via an elegant stew of chicken and chickpeas spooned over a bed of couscous, topped with a rich tfaya (sauce) of caramelized onions and spiced raisins, and garnished with fried almonds and hard-boiled eggs. Koehler offers several methods for preparing couscous in his book, including with a traditional couscoussier, but here we’ve included his ingenious quick-cooking technique, in which the couscous is gently tossed with olive oil and then briefly steamed in the oven prior to serving. It couldn’t be easier, or more delicious.

Yield: 6

Time: 2 hours 15 minutes

Ingredients

For the tfaya:

½ cup raisins
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter or olive oil
1 tsp. ground ginger
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
3 large red onions (2¼ lb.) red onions, thinly sliced
¼ cup honey

For the stew:

2½ lb. bone-in chicken thighs or legs, skin removed
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. olive oil
½ tsp. ground ginger
½ tsp. ground white pepper
6 whole cloves
1 small cinnamon stick
Pinch saffron threads, crumbled
¾ cup canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
10 cilantro sprigs, folded and tied into a bundle with twine
10 parsley sprigs, folded and tied into a bundle with twine

For the couscous:

3 cups fine semolina couscous (1 lb.)
1 tsp. fine salt
1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature

For the garnish:

Vegetable oil, for frying
½ cup whole blanched almonds
3 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and cut into wedges (optional)

Instructions

Make the tfaya: In a small bowl, cover the raisins with lukewarm water and soak until softened, about 10 minutes, then drain. To a large skillet set over medium heat, add the raisins, butter, ginger, cinnamon, onions, and ½ cup of water. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and deep golden brown, about 30 minutes. Stir in the honey and turn the heat to low. Continue cooking until brown and jammy, about 15 minutes more.Remove from the heat and set aside.
Make the stew: To a large, heavy pot add the chicken, oil, salt, ginger, white pepper, cloves, cinnamon stick, and saffron and turn to coat. Add the chickpeas, butter, cilantro, parsley, and 4¼ cups of water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, partially cover, and cook until the chicken is very tender, about 45 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the herb bundles and cloves.
Meanwhile, make the couscous: Place the couscous in a 9- by13-inch baking pan. In a large measuring cup, stir together 3 cups of lukewarm water and the salt until dissolved. Pour evenly over the couscous and set aside until the grains are expanded and tender, 15–20 minutes.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Using a fork, fluff the couscous, then drizzle with the oil. Using your hands, lift the grains and let them fall through your fingers, working out any clumps by rubbing the grains between your palms. Bake until the grains begin to steam, about 12 minutes.
Make the garnish: To a small skillet set over medium heat, add oil to a depth of ½ inch. When it’s hot and shimmering, fry the almonds until just golden, 2–4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate.
To serve, add the butter to the couscous, then use a fork to fluff until coated. Mound onto a serving platter and make a well in the center. Using a slotted spoon, place the meat and chickpeas in the well, then ladle with about half of the broth. Spread the tfaya over the chicken and sprinkle with the almonds. Garnish with the eggs, and serve with the remaining broth on the side.

The post Chicken Couscous with Caramelized Onion and Raisin Tfaya appeared first on Saveur.

Mandazi

Wibi Ashley — Sat, 26 Aug 2023 16:52:30 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Charleston, South Carolina chef, caterer, and plant-based food expert Wibi Ashley served these lightly sweet, vegan fritters with a raw berry jam and coconut cream after a Charleston Wine + Food Festival workshop on plant-based cooking and working with botanical ingredients. Traditional mandazi are a popular East African street food. For her extra-fragrant vegan version, Ashley enriched the batter with coconut milk—though any plant-based or cow’s milk will make a suitable substitute. Fresh out of the fryer, the fritters make an excellent breakfast food, snack, or dessert. Enjoy any leftovers at room temperature alongside savory dishes like stews or curries.

Yield: 8–10

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

5 cup self-rising flour, plus more for dusting
¾ cup coconut sugar or date sugar
1 tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. ground cardamom
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. fine salt
2 cup warm coconut milk, plus more as needed
Vegetable oil, for frying
Jelly or jam and whipped coconut cream, for serving (optional)

Instructions

Into a large bowl, sift the flour, coconut sugar, baking powder, coconut sugar, cardamom, cinnamon, and salt. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture, then add the warm coconut milk and, using a fork or wooden spoon, begin stirring, drawing the dry ingredients into the liquid a little at a time until a shaggy dough begins to form. Put aside the fork and begin using your hands to knead the mixture directly in the bowl until the dough is firm and smooth, about 10 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel, and set aside until the dough is soft and pliable, 30–45 minutes.
Lightly flour a clean work surface and turn the dough out onto it. Divide the dough into 4 equal portions, then roll each portion between the palms of your hands to form a loose ball. Cover 3 of the balls and set aside.
Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll one dough ball out to an even circle, about 7½ inches in diameter and ¼ inch thick. Using a large chef’s knife or bench knife, cut the circle crosswise into 8 even wedges. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside while you repeat with the remaining dough balls.
Line a wide bowl or large platter with paper towels and set aside. To a large heavy-bottomed pot fitted with a deep-frying thermometer, pour the oil to a depth of 2 inches. Turn the heat to medium-high until the temperature reaches 350°F.
Working in batches, fry the mandazi, turning occasionally, until evenly golden brown, 3–5 minutes. Using tongs or a spider strainer, transfer to a kitchen or paper towel-lined bowl to drain and cool while you continue frying the rest. Serve the mandazi warm, with jam or jelly and whipped coconut cream, if desired.

The post Mandazi appeared first on Saveur.

Almond Dip with Argan Oil and Honey

Jeff Koehler — Tue, 22 Aug 2023 20:48:16 +0000

This recipe for amlou, adapted from Jeff Koehler’s new book, The North African Cookbook, is an almond-based spread local to the southwestern Moroccan region of Sous, between Agadir and Essaouira. Ground together with deep golden argan oil and just a touch of honey, this earthy, lightly sweetened dip is a staple at the Moroccan table, eaten with bread at breakfast or at snacktime. Made from the seeds of the argan tree, which is indigenous to the Sous region and can be up to two hundred years old, argan oil is often sold as a beauty product, so be sure to use an edible, culinary-grade variety for preparing this dish. (Argan oil is available at many North African and online retailers, or substitute walnut oil, almond oil, or full-bodied extra-virgin olive oil.)

Yield: 2

Time: 20 minutes

1⅓ cups almonds (8 oz.)
Fine salt
½ cup culinary argan oil (see headnote), or walnut or extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. honey, or to taste

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. On an ungreased baking sheet, bake the almonds, shaking the pan occasionally, until deep brown and crunchy, 10–15 minutes. Transfer a plate and set aside until cool.
In a food processor, blend the almonds to a gritty paste. With the machine running, gradually add the oil and blend until smooth. Season with salt to taste, then scrape into a serving bowl and stir in the honey. (Refrigerated and tightly covered, amlou will keep for up to one week.)

The post Almond Dip with Argan Oil and Honey appeared first on Saveur.

Goat (or Chicken) Tagine with Fennel, Olives, and Ras el Hanout

Benjamin Kemper — Wed, 29 Mar 2023 12:39:46 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Dayna Seman

Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s weeknight cooking column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest ideas that require just one pot, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

“Tagine is architecture,” explained Houssa Yakobi, owner of Gîte Ourthane in Zaouiat Cheikh, as his elder sister Mouna—a stern silver-haired woman with faded face tattoos—scattered sliced cardoon over goat meat stewing in orange broth. The olives, carrots, and sweet potatoes would be layered on in an hour or so—enough time for us to knead up a batch of sourdough khobz, the sturdy Moroccan bread that doubles as a sponge for the goat tagine’s cumin-scented juices.

Purists will tell you a tagine isn’t a tagine unless it’s cooked in the eponymous conical pot, but don’t worry if you don’t own one: This dish comes out wonderfully in a Dutch oven. If you can find cardoon, use it (peeled and coarsely chopped) in place of the fennel as they do in the Atlas Mountains, adding it along with the parsley and spices in step 1. Cardoon and fennel are traditional early-spring tagine ingredients. Chicken thighs make a fine substitute for goat if the latter isn’t readily available.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

2 lb. boneless goat meat, such as leg, shoulder, or neck (or 2 lb. boneless skinless chicken thighs), cut into 3-in. chunks
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley leaves, plus more for garnish
1 Tbsp. ras el hanout spice blend
1½ tsp. ground cumin
1 small onion, peeled and quartered
1½ lb. fennel bulbs (about 3 small), cored, trimmed, and coarsely chopped, fronds reserved
2 plum tomatoes (fresh or canned), peeled and coarsely chopped
3 medium carrots, peeled and halved lengthwise
1 large red potato (12 oz.), peeled and cut lengthwise into eighths
1 large white sweet potato (12 oz.), or regular sweet potato, peeled and cut lengthwise into eighths
1 cup pitted green olives (preferably Moroccan, Greek, or Turkish), smashed with the side of a knife

Instructions

To a large, wide pot or tagine, add the goat, oil, salt, and garlic and turn to coat. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, turning the meat frequently, until opaque all over (do not brown), about 5 minutes. Add the parsley, ras el hanout, cumin, onion, and 1 cup of water. Cover, turn the heat to medium-low, and cook for 30 minutes.
Scatter evenly with the fennel and tomatoes. On top, alternate wedges of carrot, red potato, and sweet potato in a tight circle pointing toward the center (save any vegetables that don’t fit for another use). Top evenly with the olives (do not stir), then cover and cook until the vegetables are soft and the meat flakes easily when poked with a fork, about 1 hour. Sprinkle with the fennel fronds and serve.

The post Goat (or Chicken) Tagine with Fennel, Olives, and Ras el Hanout appeared first on Saveur.

Lemony Moroccan Lamb Stew with Garlic and Saffron

Amanda Mouttaki — Tue, 28 Feb 2023 19:48:14 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

Traditionally cooked overnight in the burning embers beneath Marrakech’s hammams, tangia is an aromatic, saucy Moroccan lamb stew flavored with saffron and preserved lemons. The meat should be so soft that it disintegrates when poked with a fork, a texture achieved more quickly in a pressure cooker or Instant Pot than in a standard Dutch oven. The older the preserved lemons, the more multilayered the broth will taste (vendors in Marrakech sell “back-vintage” jars aged up to four years, a true delicacy).

Featured in “Marrakech’s Best-Kept Food Secret Is (Literally) Beneath Your Feet,” by Amanda Mouttaki.

Yield: 4

Time: 2 hours 20 minutes

2 Tbsp. olive oil
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp. ground cumin
¾ tsp. ground white pepper
½ tsp. ground turmeric
Pinch saffron threads, ground in a mortar and pestle
2 lb. boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1½-in. chunks
1¾ tsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. finely chopped preserved lemon rind, or two (2-inch-long) lemon zest strips
Parsley sprigs, for garnish

Instructions

To a large pot (or pressure cooker; see footnote) set over medium heat, add the oil and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in the cumin, white pepper, turmeric, and saffron and cook for 1 minute more. Add the lamb and salt and stir to coat with the spices. Add the preserved lemon and enough water to just cover the meat, then bring to a boil. Cover, turn the heat down to maintain a strong simmer, and cook until the meat is soft and flakes apart easily, about 2 hours.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a bowl. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook the broth, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly and reduced by one third, about 10 minutes. Return the lamb to the pot and bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat.
Transfer the tangia to a serving bowl (alternatively, serve straight from the pot) and garnish with parsley sprigs.

Note: If using a pressure cooker or Instant Pot, add less water—only enough to come halfway up the meat—then cook over medium-high heat at high pressure for about 1 hour. Allow the pressure to naturally release before opening. Skip step 2 (the broth will already be concentrated enough).

The post Lemony Moroccan Lamb Stew with Garlic and Saffron appeared first on Saveur.

West African-Style Peanut Stew

Jessica B. Harris — Mon, 11 Feb 2019 14:10:42 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

“Peanut stews are found across West Africa, with ancient roots in dishes made with native groundnuts before the peanut arrived from the New World in the 16th century,” writes Dr. Jessica B. Harris, historian and author of High on the Hog. “Some are thick and served over rice or millet couscous, others thin and soupy, depending on where in Africa you are.” This version, inspired by Malian maafe and Ghana’s groundnut stews, pairs chicken with a generous portion of okra, tomatoes, eggplant, and hot chiles, which lighten the stew’s intense richness. Still, it’s the indispensable peanut that gives this dish its essential earthy character.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

⅓ cup vegetable oil
2 lb. bone-in chicken thighs, skin discarded, patted dry with paper towels
Kosher salt
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
¼ cup finely chopped ginger
4 dried chiles de árbol
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. ground turmeric
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp. ground cumin
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. fenugreek seeds
3 whole cloves
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
¾ cup smooth salted peanut butter
4 cups homemade chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup canned diced tomatoes
1 medium eggplant (about 1 lb.), peeled and cut into 1-in. cubes
10 okra pods (about 4 oz.), cut into 1-in. lengths
Steamed white rice, for serving
1 fresh red chile, such as peri-peri or bird’s-eye, thinly sliced
Roasted salted peanuts, coarsely chopped, for garnish

Instructions

To a pot set over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons of the vegetable oil. Season the chicken generously with salt and cook, turning once, until lightly browned on both sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside.
To the empty pot, add the onion, ginger, chiles de árbol, and the remaining oil and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the coriander, turmeric, black pepper, cumin, cinnamon, fenugreek, and cloves and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until slightly darkened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the peanut butter, tomatoes, reserved chicken, and chicken stock and turn the heat to high. When the liquid boils, turn down the heat to medium-low and cook, partially covered, until the chicken is done but not falling off the bone, about 25 minutes. Add the eggplant and okra and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is very tender and the vegetables are soft, 25–30 minutes more. Season with salt to taste.
To serve, ladle the soup over rice, if desired, and sprinkle with the fresh chile and peanuts.

The post West African-Style Peanut Stew appeared first on Saveur.

Ndambe (Senegalese Lamb and Black-Eyed Pea Stew)

Binta Fall and Cherif Mbodji — Tue, 24 Jan 2023 23:00:00 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

In Senegal, ndambe, a black-eyed pea stew, is a dinnertime staple—warming, hearty, and filling. Every family that cooks it makes it a little differently; some might add okra or sweet potatoes, while others like to feature meats such as lamb or beef. In their family ndambe recipe, Cherif Mbodji and his mother Binta Fall opt to include lamb. (Mbodji is director of operations and partner at Houston restaurants Bludorn and the just-opened Navy Blue, both joint ventures with chef Aaron Bludorn.)

While dried black-eyed peas are more traditional, this streamlined recipe, adapted from Mbodji and Fall’s version, uses canned ones instead, cutting the cook time substantially.

Red palm oil, derived from palm fruits, is frequently used in African cooking. Because the oil’s production is associated with deforestation concerns on the continent, look for sustainably and responsibly produced palm oil. If you can’t find it, vegetable oil is a suitable—but less flavorful—substitute.

Because the dish tastes better with time, ndambe, traditionally served for dinner, has evolved into a popular breakfast in Senegal, where it’s stuffed inside baguettes as a convenient on-the-go meal. Mbodji and Fall recommend opting for a loaf with a soft, tight crumb—or serving ndambe over rice.

Featured in: “In Senegal, This Hearty Stew Doubles as a Delightful Breakfast Sandwich.” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 4

Time: 2 hours

1 Tbsp. African red palm oil
10 oz. boneless leg of lamb, cut into ½-in. cubes
2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped
2 medium scallions, finely chopped
½ cup parsley leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp. smoked paprika
1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
3¾ cup drained, canned black-eyed peas, rinsed well
2 bay leaves
2½ cups beef, chicken, or vegetable stock
1 medium red potato, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 baguette, cut crosswise into quarters

Instructions

To a large Dutch oven over medium heat, add the palm oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the lamb and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned all over, 2–4 minutes. Add the onion, bell pepper, scallion, parsley, black pepper, and 1 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, 2–4 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and continue cooking, until the vegetables soften and turn a deep reddish-brown, 10–12 minutes. Stir in the garlic, smoked paprika, and vinegar, cook for 2 minutes, then add the black-eyed peas, bay leaves, and stock. Turn the heat up to medium-high to bring to a simmer, then turn the heat to medium and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the lamb is tender, about 30–35 minutes.
Add the potato, cover, turn the heat to medium-low, and cook until the potatoes are soft and beginning to break down, 40–45 minutes. Remove from the heat, season the stew with more salt as needed.
To serve, split the baguette quarters and spoon the stew over the bottom halves of the bread. Add the tops to make sandwiches and serve hot.

The post Ndambe (Senegalese Lamb and Black-Eyed Pea Stew) appeared first on Saveur.