Issue 128 | Saveur

Broccoli Strascinati (Sautéed Broccoli with Garlic and Chile)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:27:43 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen. Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

Strascinati, which means “dragged,” refers to a technique for sautéing in olive oil with plenty of garlic and chiles. This Roman side dish, which pairs beautifully with porchetta or pork chops, can be made with regular broccoli, broccoli rabe, or broccoli romano, known in the U.S. as romanesco.

Featured in “Roman Contorni” by Dana Bowen.

Yield: 2–4

Time: 15 minutes

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. broccoli, stemmed and cut into florets
3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
½ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
Kosher salt

Instructions

To a large skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the broccoli and cook, turning occasionally, until lightly browned, 6–8 minutes. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons of water, then add the garlic and cook until golden, 2–3 minutes. Add the chile flakes and continue cooking until toasted, about 2 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and serve immediately.

The post Broccoli Strascinati (Sautéed Broccoli with Garlic and Chile) appeared first on Saveur.

Maiale in Agrodolce (Sweet and Sour Pork Chops)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:05 +0000

Michael Kraus. Michael Kraus

Honey and balsamic vinegar are the sweet and sour agents in the glaze for these Italian-style grilled pork chops. Known as maiale in agrodolce, they’re typical of the sturdy, lusty food found in Roman neighborhood restaurants and home kitchens alike. The juicy, flame-kissed meat pairs well with peperonata (stewed sweet peppers), roasted potatoes, or sautéed greens.

Featured in “Eternal Pleasures” by Anya von Bremzen.

Yield: 4

Time: 50 minutes

Four 10-oz. bone-in pork chops
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅓ cup balsamic vinegar
2 Tbsp. honey
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 fresh rosemary sprig, torn into 1-in. pieces

Instructions

On a large plate, drizzle the pork chops with the oil, season to taste with salt and black pepper, and set aside for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. To a small pot over medium heat, add the vinegar and honey, and cook until reduced to ¼ cup. Stir in the butter and rosemary, and set aside.
Grill the pork chops, turning and basting with the balsamic mixture occasionally, until browned and cooked through, 12–14 minutes. Transfer to a platter, allow to rest for 5 minutes, and serve.

The post Maiale in Agrodolce (Sweet and Sour Pork Chops) appeared first on Saveur.

Taiwanese-style Braised Squash with Ginger (Chao Nan Gua)

Matt Gross — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:09 +0000

See the Recipe. Andre Baranowski

This fragrant side dish, a Taiwanese favorite called chao nan gua, can be made with several different kinds of squash; we’ve found that kabocha and butternut work best. The recipe comes from travel writer Matt Gross, whose in-laws are Taiwanese. Browse all of our winter squash recipes to ward off those winter blues.

Yield: serves 4

1 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 half-in. piece of ginger, peeled and sliced into ⅛-in.-thick coins
1 small kabocha or butternut squash (about 2½ lbs.), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1½-in. cubes
2 tsp. sugar
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

To a large cast-iron skillet set over high heat, add the oil. When it is hot and shimmering, add the ginger and cook until fragrant and softened slightly, about 2 minutes. Stir in the squash, sugar, salt, and ½ cup of water. Bring to a boil, then cover and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the squash is tender when pierced with a fork, 8–12 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and serve hot.

The post Taiwanese-style Braised Squash with Ginger (Chao Nan Gua) appeared first on Saveur.

Martinez Cocktail

Aubrey Slater — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:41:49 +0000

Get the recipe for Martinez Cocktail. Erik Delanoy

In the 1880s, “Old Tom” gin, a style with quite a bit more sweetness than London dry, was just beginning to gain popularity in America. This is the drink that put it over the top. Erik Delanoy

If there is a cocktail family tree, the classic martini is surely a descendant of the Martinez, though it also shares some of its DNA with the Manhattan. Aubrey Slater, Bar Manager at Mother of Pearl and Honeybee’s in New York City, makes her Martinez the traditional way with “Old Tom” gin, a slightly sweet style that was popular in the 19th century, and which is, in some cocktail circles, coming back into vogue. We find that a dark, bittersweet Italian vermouth, like Punt e Mes, balances the fragrant cherry sweetness of the Maraschino liqueur. While irrevocably linked to the martini, this cocktail drinks like none other with a bold, complex, and lightly sweet flavor profile.

In the 1880s, Old Tom gin, a style with quite a bit more sweetness than London dry, was just beginning to gain popularity in America. This is the drink that put it over the top.

Featured in: Quarantined? Make these “Quaran-tinis”

Equipment

Yield: makes 1 cocktail

Time: 5 minutes

1½ oz. “Old Tom” gin
1½ oz. Punt e Mes
¼ oz. Luxardo Maraschino liqueur
3 dashes Angostura bitters
3 dashes orange bitters
Orange twist, for garnish

Instructions

In a mixing glass filled with ice, add the gin, Punt e Mes, Maraschino liqueur, and the Angostura and orange bitters. Stir until well-chilled, then strain into a martini glass or coupe and garnish with an orange twist. Serve immediately.

The post Martinez Cocktail appeared first on Saveur.

Cardamom Cream Puffs (Semlor)

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:20 +0000

Cardamom Cream Puffs (Semlor). Todd Coleman

As Monica Bhide wrote in her homage to cardamom (“Queen of Spices,” April 2010), a love for this spice stretches from South Asia to Scandinavia. These cream-filled, cardamom-scented pastries are traditionally served in Sweden on the day before the beginning of Lent.

Yield: makes 16 BUNS

Ingredients

FOR THE FILLING

³⁄₄ cup sugar
3 tbsp. cornstarch
1 tbsp. ground cardamom
³⁄₄ tsp. kosher salt
1 ¹⁄₂ cups milk
3 eggs
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2" cubes
1 cup heavy cream
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. vanilla extract

FOR THE DOUGH

1 cup milk, heated to 115°
¹⁄₂ cup sugar
2 tsp. ground cardamom
2 ¹⁄₄ oz. packages active dry yeast
1 egg
4 cups flour
1 tbsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2" cubes, softened
1 tbsp. heavy cream
1 egg yolk
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting

Instructions

Make the filling: Whisk together sugar, cornstarch, cardamom, and salt in a 2-qt. saucepan; whisk in milk and eggs. Bring to a boil over medium heat; cook, whisking constantly, until thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from heat; whisk in butter. Transfer mixture to a bowl; press a piece of plastic wrap onto surface of filling. Refrigerate.
In a bowl, whisk cream and vanilla to stiff peaks. Fold whipped cream into chilled filling; transfer to a piping bag fitted with a fluted tip. Chill for 2 hours.
Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine milk, sugar, cardamom, and yeast; stir together and let sit until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add egg; mix to combine. Add flour, baking powder, and salt; mix until a dough forms. Replace paddle with hook attachment; knead on medium speed for 2 minutes. While kneading, slowly add butter in batches, mixing until completely incorporated before adding the next batch, 3–4 minutes. Continue kneading for 4 minutes more after last of butter is added. Transfer dough to a lightly greased bowl and cover with plastic wrap; let sit until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Heat oven to 400°. Transfer dough to a work surface and divide into 16 equal portions. Roll each portion into a ball and place 8 balls each on 2 parchment paper-–lined baking sheets; cover both baking sheets loosely with plastic wrap and let sit until dough has risen slightly, 30 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together cream and egg yolk. Uncover dough balls. Using a pastry brush, brush each dough ball with egg wash. Bake, moving baking sheets from front to back of oven and from top rack to bottom rack halfway through cooking, until golden brown, 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature.
Using a knife, cut 1⁄2″ from the top of each bun and set aside. Pull out most of dough from inside of each bun; discard. Pipe filling into each cavity; top with reserved lids. Dust with confectioners’ sugar.

The post Cardamom Cream Puffs (Semlor) appeared first on Saveur.

Cardamom-Ginger Crunch

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:34:17 +0000

These shortbreads get their spicy kick from ground cardamom and ginger. Todd Coleman

SAVEUR kitchen assistant Victoria Ross makes these glazed shortbreads, which get their spicy kick from ground cardamom and ginger, for afternoon tea in her native New Zealand.

Yield: makes 48 Pieces

2 cups unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing
1 cup sugar
3 cups flour, sifted
11 tsp. ground ginger
3 ¹⁄₂ tsp. ground cardamom
2 tsp. baking powder
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 ¹⁄₂ cups confectioners' sugar
3 tbsp. golden syrup or dark corn syrup

Instructions

Heat oven to 375°. Grease a 9″ x 13″ baking dish; set aside. Put 18 tbsp. butter and sugar in a large bowl; beat with a handheld mixer on medium until fluffy. Add flour, 3 tsp. ginger, 1 tsp. ground cardamom, baking powder, and 1 tsp. salt; mix until incorporated but still crumbly. Transfer mixture to reserved dish; press flat with your hands. Bake until shortbread is golden brown, about 20 minutes. Let cool.
In a 1-qt. saucepan over medium heat, combine remaining butter, ginger, cardamom, and salt and the confectioners’ sugar and syrup. Bring to a boil and pour over shortbread; cool. Cut into 2″ rectangles.

The post Cardamom-Ginger Crunch appeared first on Saveur.

Chicory in Anchovy Sauce (Puntarelle in Salsa di Alici)

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:03 +0000

Tossed with a garlicky anchovy dressing, this vegetable dish is a great foil for rich pastas and roasted meats. Get the recipe for Chicory in Anchovy Sauce ». Todd Coleman

Tossed with a garlicky anchovy dressing, this vegetable dish is a great foil for rich pastas and roasted meats.

Yield: serves 4

8 oz. young puntarelle or dandelion greens, trimmed and thinly sliced
4 anchovy filets
1 clove garlic, minced
6 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 tbsp. red or white wine vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions

Put puntarelle into a bowl of ice water; let sit for 1 hour. Meanwhile, finely chop and smash anchovies and garlic to make a paste; whisk in oil and vinegar to make a smooth dressing. Season with salt and pepper. Drain puntarelle and pat dry; toss with dressing.

The post Chicory in Anchovy Sauce (Puntarelle in Salsa di Alici) appeared first on Saveur.

Paella with Chorizo, Chicken, and Shrimp (Paella Mixta)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:14 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDRE BARANOWSKI

This over-the-top Americanized paella gets its smoky kick from paprika and chorizo. Why “Americanized”? Traditional paella valenciana, as documented by David Rosengarten in “The Art of Paella”, usually contains rabbit, snails, and chicken.

What You Will Need

Yield: 6-8

30 threads saffron, crushed (a scant 1/2 tsp.)
1 lb. boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2" pieces
10 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¹⁄₂ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 oz. dry-cured Spanish chorizo, cut into 1/4"-thick coins
1 tbsp. smoked paprika
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 dried bay leaves
3 medium tomatoes, minced
1 small onion, minced
7 cups chicken broth
2 ¹⁄₂ cups short-grain rice, preferably Valencia or bomba
8 oz. fresh or frozen peas
3 jarred roasted red peppers, torn into 1/2"-thick strips
12 mussels, cleaned and debearded
1 (9-oz.) box frozen artichoke hearts, thawed

Instructions

Put saffron and 1⁄4 cup hot water in a small bowl; let sit for 15 minutes. Season chicken and shrimp with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a 16″–18″ paella pan over medium-high heat. Add chicken, shrimp, and chorizo and cook, turning occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer shrimp to a plate, leaving meats in pan. Add paprika, garlic, bay leaves, tomatoes, and onions to pan and cook, stirring often, until onions soften, about 6 minutes. Add reserved saffron mixture and broth, season with salt, and bring to a boil over high heat.
Sprinkle in rice, distribute evenly with a spoon, and add artichokes, peas, and peppers. Cook, without stirring, until rice has absorbed most of the liquid, 10–12 minutes. (If your pan is larger than the burner, rotate it every two minutes so different parts are over the heat and the rice cooks evenly.) Reduce heat to low, add reserved shrimp, and nestle in mussels hinge side down; cook, without stirring, until mussels have opened and rice has absorbed the liquid and is al dente, 5–10 minutes more. Remove pan from heat, cover with aluminum foil, and let sit for 5 minutes before serving.

The post Paella with Chorizo, Chicken, and Shrimp (Paella Mixta) appeared first on Saveur.

Pakistani Lamb Biryani

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:25 +0000

Get the recipe for Pakistani Lamb Biryani ». Todd Coleman

This recipe comes from SAVEUR kitchen assistant Ambreen Hasan, a native of Karachi, Pakistan. We featured it as part of our “Queen of Spices” article (April 2010), an ode to the many ways in which cardamom is used.

Yield: serves 6

1 cup canola oil
3 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
2 tbsp. garam masala
1 tsp. crushed red chile flakes
¹⁄₂ tsp. turmeric
18 black peppercorns
9 pods green cardamom
3 pods black cardamom
2 sticks (2") cinnamon
6 cloves garlic, minced
6 tomatoes, cored and minced
5 serrano chiles, stemmed and minced
1 (1 1/2") piece ginger, peeled and minced
2 lb. trimmed lamb shoulder, cut into 2–3" pieces
Kosher salt, to taste
¹⁄₂ cup plain yogurt
³⁄₄ cup roughly chopped mint leaves
¹⁄₄ cup roughly chopped cilantro
40 threads saffron, crushed (heaping 1/2 tsp.)
2 ¹⁄₂ cups white basmati rice, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes, drained
¹⁄₂ tsp. cumin seeds
4 whole cloves
2 dried bay leaves
Rose water or kewra essence (optional)
Red/orange food color (optional)

Instructions

Heat ¼ cup oil in a 5-qt. skillet over high heat. Add onions; cook, stirring occasionally, until dark brown, 20–25 minutes. Transfer to a bowl; set aside.
Heat remaining oil in a 5-qt. pot over high heat. Add garam masala, chile flakes, turmeric, 10 peppercorns, 5 green cardamom pods, 2 black cardamom pods, and 1 cinnamon stick; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add garlic, tomatoes, chiles, and ginger; cook, stirring, 2–3 minutes. Add lamb, season with salt, and cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Cover, reduce heat to medium; cook until lamb is tender, about 1 hour. Add fried onions, yogurt, ½ cup mint, and 2 tbsp. cilantro; cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes more. Set aside.
Put saffron into a bowl and cover with ½ cup hot water; set aside. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a 5-qt. saucepan. Add remaining peppercorns, green and black cardamom, and cinnamon, along with the rice, cumin, cloves, and bay leaves, and season with salt. Cook rice until al dente, 5–10 minutes; drain rice and set aside.
Transfer half the lamb curry to a 5-qt. pot. Top lamb with half the rice. Pour half the saffron mixture onto rice along with a few drops of rose water and food coloring (if using); mix into rice with your fingers. Top with remaining lamb curry and remaining rice; drizzle with remaining saffron; mix. Steam, covered, on low heat until rice is tender, about 10 minutes. Garnish with remaining mint and cilantro.

The post Pakistani Lamb Biryani appeared first on Saveur.

Pork and Chive Dumplings (Shui Jiao)

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:24:11 +0000

To keep the wrappers from tearing while making these dumplings, we suggest finely chopping the scallions and grating the ginger (see our step-by-step instructions). Todd Coleman

To keep the wrappers from tearing while making these dumplings, we suggest finely chopping the scallions and grating the ginger. These classic snacks—which are boiled, not steamed or fried—were featured as part of Matt Gross’s feature story on Taiwanese cuisine, “Taipei, Family Style” (April 2010).

Watch: How to Shape Dumplings (Hint: Think about dinosaurs!)

Yield: makes about 30 dumplings

4 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. Asian sesame oil
4 tbsp. soy sauce
2 tbsp. black vinegar
Flour, for dusting
3 ¹⁄₂ oz. garlic, chives or scallions, finely chopped (1 1/2 cups)
2 tsp. mushroom powder
1 tsp. cornstarch
1 tsp. salt
¹⁄₂ tsp. grated ginger
¹⁄₂ tsp. white or black pepper
30 (4 1/2") round wonton wrappers
1 lb. ground lean pork

Instructions

In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tsp. sesame oil, soy sauce, and vinegar; set aside. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and sprinkle with flour; set aside. Put remaining sesame oil, along with the pork, garlic chives, mushroom powder, cornstarch, salt, ginger, and pepper, into a medium bowl and stir vigorously with a rubber spatula to combine.
Working with one wrapper at a time, put a tablespoon of pork filling onto a wrapper, fold wrapper in half, and seal it with water, or follow instructions on facing page for forming dumplings into the traditional pleated crescent shape. Transfer each dumpling to reserved baking sheet; cover with a tea towel.
Meanwhile, bring a 5-qt. pot of water to a boil. Working in three batches, boil dumplings until filling is cooked through, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer dumplings to a platter and serve with reserved dipping sauce.

See step-by-step instructions on forming Shui Jiao in the gallery, below.

1. Laying the wrapper in the open palm of one hand, place a tablespoon or so of filling in the center and moisten the wrapper’s edge with water. Brenda Weaver

2. Pinch opposite edges of the wrapper together to form a half-moon shape that’s open at both ends. Brenda Weaver

3. With the half moon resting in your palm, use the thumb and forefinger of your other hand to grip a single edge of the wrapper near one corner of the dumpling. Fold the edge of the wrapper inward, about halfway toward dumpling’s center; pinch the fold firmly closed to form a pleat, leaving the end of dumpling open. Continue to work on same side of dumpling to form a second pleat; then seal that end of dumpling by folding the corner toward you and pinching it shut, creating a third pleat. Brenda Weaver

4. Repeat step 3 to create three identical pleats on the other side of the dumpling. Brenda Weaver

5. Brenda Weaver

The post Pork and Chive Dumplings (Shui Jiao) appeared first on Saveur.

Cardamom Chicken Curry

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:31:43 +0000

This curry from author Monica Bhide is flavored with both green and black cardamom. Todd Coleman

Author Monica Bhide uses both green and black cardamom to flavor this curry.

Yield: serves 4

1 ¹⁄₂ cups plain yogurt, plus more for garnish
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. Kashmiri chile powder
1 tsp. ground turmeric
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
12 pods green cardamom, crushed
2 lb. skinless bone-in chicken thighs and legs
¹⁄₄ cup canola oil
8 whole black peppercorns
3 pods black cardamom
1 (2") stick cinnamon
2 small yellow onions, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 (1") piece ginger, peeled and minced, plus more julienned for garnish
3 tbsp. roughly chopped cilantro, for garnish
4 cups cooked rice, for serving

Instructions

Combine yogurt, chile powder, turmeric, salt, and 8 pods green cardamom in a large bowl; add chicken, mix, and cover bowl with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to overnight.
Heat oil in a 6-qt. pot over high heat. Add remaining green cardamom along with peppercorns, black cardamom, and cinnamon; cook until fragrant, 1–2 minutes. Add onions, garlic, chiles, and ginger; cook, stirring and adding a few tablespoons of water as needed, until onions are browned, 12–15 minutes. Add chicken and marinade; cook, flipping chicken occasionally, until most of liquid has evaporated, 20–30 minutes. Add 1⁄3 cup water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cook, stirring, until sauce has thickened, 6–8 minutes. Season with salt and garnish with ginger, cilantro, and yogurt; serve with rice.

The post Cardamom Chicken Curry appeared first on Saveur.